Innholdsfortegnelse for December/January 2021 i Sew News

DEAR READERS, Quick, before you open this publication, close your eyes and think about fabrics that you associate with the holidays. What about holiday parties? I’m guessing your list looks something like plaid, flannel, Sherpa, faux fur, sequins and velvet. Ours, too — and we’ve included them all in our holiday issue for your sewing enjoyment! If there’s a time I enjoy sewing for others, it’s definitely the holidays. In this issue, you’ll find plenty of clever ideas to kick-start your holiday gift making. Stitch a set of plaid flannel pillows for your home or someone else’s (page 65) or make a pair of no-sew fabric earrings (page 58): both projects come together quickly with the help of cutting files for your cutting machine. Or stitch a modern hoodie that’s…

SN: Describe your perfect day. Jess: Pastries delivered for breakfast eaten with a French press full of coffee (lunch and dinner to also miraculously require no preparation or cleanup), a full day of sewing (and a sewing room that magically tidies itself as I work) and, in the evening, a catchup with friends (because it’s too dark to sew then anyway). Leila: A sleep in, followed by a visit to the farmer’s market to select yummy produce, an afternoon with some sewing, and then friends coming over to prepare a delicious and elaborate meal together! SN: What's your greatest extravagance? Jess: Probably fabric if I’m to be honest about my spending, but I also enjoy craft beer, whisky, fancy chocolate and so many other things that are probably a bit…

• Use a zipper 2” to 4” longer than the opening, eliminating the need to sew around the pull tab.• Close the zipper for stitching so the tab is above the fabric upper edge, but don’t forget to unzip it before trimming.• Easily shorten a zipper if needed. Find the desired length by measuring from the top down. Lower the feed dogs on the machine, zigzag across the coils at the desired point and then trim the zipper tape below the stitching.• Use clear tape across the zipper to hold it in place for stitching.• Attach a seam guide to the presser foot to make it easy to sew parallel to the fabric folded edge.…

The new L 890 serger from Bernina includes a personal memory function that is changing the way we use sergers. With the touch of a button, you can save and store specialty stitches you can access again and again, from decorative stitches to functional stitches used in garment making. DECORATIVE FLATLOCK We love a serger for its many practical applications, but don’t forget all the decorative potential! Create and store a wide 9mm flatlock, then weave a coordinating ribbon or decorative yarn through the stitches in a repeated pattern. We love this stitch treatment for fleece blankets, pretty pajamas and any time you may need an added heirloom effect. BLANKET STITCH Put the flatlock to good use with this perfect finished edge option, designed to mimic the look of a…

Initially created by Elsa Schiaparelli in the ’30s, the wrap dress was perfected and popularized by Diane von Furstenberg in the ’70s. It has since become a timeless classic and quintessential item every woman must have in her closet. The wrap dress is a perfect holiday party wardrobe staple for many reasons. It is flattering for all figures, appropriate for any age, can be dressed up or down and is perfect for all occasions depending on your fabric choice. SUITABLE FABRICS Mediumweight woven fabrics with some drape are perfectly suitable for wrap dresses. Think silk, sand-washed silk, rayon challis, polyester crepe or crepe de chine, tencel, etc. Knit fabrics like silk jersey and cotton, bamboo, viscose and ITY knits are great for wrap dresses as well. Nothing says “holiday party”…

Skill Level: Beginner SUPPLIES • Sequin or other woven fabric (amount according to chart)• Bias tape• Matching all-purpose thread PREPARE Download, print and tile the Shift to Shine Dress pattern from sewdaily.com/go/SNfreebies until Jan. 31, 2021. Cut out your size according to the pattern measurements. From the woven fabric, cut one front and back on the fold and two sleeves. CONSTRUCT With wrong sides together, match the front and back piece along the shoulder seam. Stitch together with a 3/8” seam allowance. Trim the seam allowance to 1/8”. Turn the shift with right sides together and press the seam allowance from the previous step well. Stitch across the shoulder seam with 1/4” seam allowance. Repeat with the second shoulder seam. With wrong sides together, match the dress front and back…

CLUTCH Stitch a simple reversible sequin clutch to hold your phone, wallet and makeup at the holiday party. Skill Level: Beginner SUPPLIES • 1/3 yard each of non-stretch reversible sequin fabric & woven fabric (lining)• Matching all-purpose thread• 9” regular zipper• Zipper foot• Rotary cutting system (optional) CUT Cut two 10”x11›1/2” rectangles from the sequin fabric. Designate one rectangle as the front panel and the remaining as the back panel. Designate one long edge on each panel as the upper edge. From the lining, cut two 10”x11›1/2” rectangles and two 2” squares. CONSTRUCT Use 1/4” seam allowances unless otherwise noted. Press one lining square in half with wrong sides together; unfold. Fold adjacent edges toward the foldline; press. Designate as the zipper tab. Repeat to fold the remaining square. Position…

Skill Level: Intermediate SUPPLIES • Sheath knit dress pattern with sleeves (such as McCall’s 7999)• Dress pattern with cowl sleeves (such as McCall’s 7998)• Crushed stretch velvet fabric (amount according to knit dress pattern envelope plus 1/2 yard; see “Source.”)• Notions (according to pattern envelopes)• Size 75/11 stretch needle• Roller, walking or PTFE foot CUT Using the knit dress pattern, cut out the dress pieces from the velvet fabric according to the corresponding pattern instructions, omitting the sleeves. Using the cowl-sleeve dress pattern, cut out the sleeve pieces from the velvet fabric according to the corresponding pattern instructions. CONSTRUCT Install a stretch needle and roller, walking or PTFE foot onto the machine. Select a zigzag or stretch stitch. Construct the dress body and sleeves according to the corresponding pattern instructions.…

SUPPLIES • Loose-fitting pullover hoodie pattern (such as BurdaStyle 6253)• 2 to 3 yards each of Sherpa fleece & jersey knit fabric with 50% stretch (amount according to measurements)• 1 yard of fusible interfacing• 5/8”-diameter heavy duty snaps and attachment tool• 1”-wide elastic (amount according to measurements)• All-purpose thread• Size 70/10 stretch needle• Pattern or tracing paper• Clear tape• Walking foot• Serger (optional) ALTER Cut out the pattern pieces. Trace the front, back and sleeve pattern onto new pattern paper, transferring all markings. Position the front pattern piece on a flat work surface. Add pattern paper to the center-front and lower edge; tape. Add a 13/4”-wide facing to the center-front edge. Add 11/4” to the lower edge. Cut out the pattern. Repeat to add 1›1/4” to the back and sleeve…

There’s always a way to elevate the everyday look and a fun place to start is the dress underneath the jacket! Chic and sophisticated silhouettes can be upgraded by a simple drape or flounce to bring drama and dimension to your look. Then add an elegantly draped jacket for that extra layer that says you mean business. DRESS PATTERN Opt for an asymmetrical dress pattern with some fullness and draped details along the top front, then a slim sleek skirt bottom. COLOR PALETTE Sew in a mix of fall weight wool fabrics in a buttery solid and corresponding plaid. FINAL TOUCHES When incorporating your dresses into a fall wardrobe tights are always a good option - and to keep the leg line long and lean, try pairing them with a…

FOOLPROOF FABRIC DYEING By Linda Johansen Get info on all of the basics you need to dye fabric, including necessary tools, the best dyes, which fabrics to use, additives, precautions and more — all in one handy reference tool! Dyeing expert Linda Johansen offers a full overview of the process, including special tips and techniques for tricky colors. The compact size is perfect to take along to a class or to the fabric store to match complementary fabrics and materials. ctpub.com ZERO WASTE GIFT WRAP By Christine Leech Embrace zero waste living with this collection of sustainable gift-wrap solutions including furoshiki, the traditional Japanese technique of fabric knotting. Whether you use a vintage silk scarf or create your own fabric with patchwork, piecing and dyeing techniques, or reuse unwanted items…

Sew News: What do you love most about sewing? Julian Collins: To me, sewing is like putting together a 3D puzzle. I am able to manipulate a flat piece of fabric into something that forms over the body or becomes anything I can imagine. It’s a creative exercise that never gets old for me. SN: What is/was the high point in your sewing career? JC: I think the high point is when people recognize me in public (usually inside a fabric store) for my work that they have seen on social media. I love meeting other creators; we usually chat about recent makes and they might ask for suggestions on fabric choices or available notions. It’s a great feeling to know I can help and empower others in their sewing.…

Skill Level: Intermediate SUPPLIES • 13”x25” rectangle each of faux fur (main panel) & coordinating mediumweight woven or knit fabric (lining)• Two 1/2”x13” strips of medium-weight fusible interfacing• Matching all-purpose thread• 12” separating metal zipper• Reversible zipper pull• Zipper stop• Removable fabric marker• Zipper foot• Hand sewing needle (optional)• Tassel (optional) CONSTRUCT Use 1/2" seam allowances unless otherwise noted. Fuse one interfacing strip to each main-panel short-edge wrong side according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Trim the fur 3/8” from the perimeter. Remove the zipper stop and pull from the zipper. Replace with a reversible pull and stop. Position the main panel right side up on a flat work surface. Designate one long edge as the upper edge. Separate the zipper. Position the left zipper tape over the main-panel right short…

NAP: Make sure your sequins are all facing the same way. CUT IN ONE LAYER: Don’t cut sequins on the fold — lay out or outline the full pieces. MARK YOUR SEAMLINES: If you are going to remove sequins from the seam allowance or want to see the lines on the right side, thread trace the seamlines. REMOVE THE SEQUINS: If the sequins are on the larger side, you can remove them to avoid hard sewing on your machine and needle breaking. Work your way to the seamline around the pattern piece. OR SHIFT THE SEQUINS OUT OF THE WAY: If you have a straight seam and the sequins are in a pattern that can be shifted to either side, like reversible sequins, do the following: • Measure the seam…

Skill Level: Beginner SUPPLIES • Woven fabric (amount according to chart)• Matching all-purpose thread• Interfacing PREPARE Download, print and tile the Delphine Duster pattern from sewdaily.com/go/SNfreebies until Jan. 31, 2021. Cut out your size according to the pattern measurements. From the woven fabric, cut two fronts, one back, two sleeves, two front facings and one back facing. From the interfacing, cut two front facings and one back facing. CONSTRUCT With wrong sides facing, match the front and back piece together along the shoulder seam. Stitch together with a 3/8” seam allowance. Trim the seam allowance to 1/8”. Turn the duster with right sides facing and press the seam allowance from the previous steps well. Stitch across the shoulder seam with a 1/4” seam allowance. Repeat with the second shoulder seam.…

Working with velvet doesn’t have to be intimidating. Check out the following tips and tricks for successful stitching. • Cut velvet in a single layer and place pattern pieces on the wrong side to avoid shifting on the nap.• Install a roller foot, walking foot or PTFE foot onto the machine or reduce the presser foot pressure to reduce the fabric shifting during stitching.• Always test stitch velvet fabric scraps to determine the best stitching settings.• Experiment with the best iron temperature and steam combination for proper pressing. Always use a press cloth and press on the fabric wrong side.…

Working with Sherpa fleece fabric is not difficult, provided you know a few tricks. • Position Sherpa fleece in a single layer from the fabric wrong side and cut only through the backing.• Select long pins with large heads or binding clips. Short pins disappear into the fabric nap.• Use a walking foot on a sewing machine to prevent shifting during stitching.• Use a serger to construct fleece projects. If using a sewing machine, install a stretch needle and select a 2.5mm to 3mm length straight stitch. Test various stitch lengths and widths on scrap fabric to determine the best combination.…

Shirt sleeve plackets add just the right detail to classic, custom-made shirts. They can be basic or more elaborate, but the two most familiar styles are the tower placket and the continuous placket. The plackets appear to be more difficult or intimidating than they really are. You’ll see that they are mainly a series of folds and straight stitching to keep the folds in place! It just takes a little practice to master them. Take your time and enjoy the process. Pro Tip: Consider sewing the plackets to the sleeves while flat, before sewing the sleeves into the garment. That way, you’ll be able to easily see which one is the left and right sleeve. TOWER PLACKET Choose a method of marking the fabric where the placket will be placed.…

PAULINE BRUCE (“Velvet Mixer” – page 32), aka @sewuthinkucan on IG, has been sewing since age five. She expresses her creativity through pattern hacking by customizing commercial sewing patterns to create garments that are unique and reflect her personality. Pauline is fascinated by the versatility of stripes and loves to manipulate them in a variety of ways when making her clothes. She’s a homeschool mom who currently lives in northern California with her husband and three children. RAE CUMBIE (“Curve Appeal” – page 14 is the Creative Director at Fit for Art Patterns, which offers patterns for modern wardrobe basics that focus on fit and include artful design options. She coaches sewists of all skill levels, in classes and on her blog, to stitch up a fun and comfortable wardrobe…

1. The stars all align (and keep you organized) in this amazing Signs of the Sewdiac 12 Month Calendar. If your studio walls are looking a little empty, this is just the inspiration to keep you sewing and on track, or just bring a little bit of sewing into your everyday organization. Complete with write ups for each month, this calendar will have you connecting with your inner sewdiac. etsy.com/com/shop/SamanthaClaridgeShop 2. Inspired by Audrey Hepburn as Regina Lambert in Charade, Naughty Bobbin’s La Megéve Pullover and Stirrup Pant is the perfect solution to sewing yourself out of the winter blues — and keeping you looking cozy chic! This two-in-one pattern includes a pullover with in-seam hand-warming pockets and rolled Bateau collar alongside ponteknit elastic-waist stirrup pants. We love this plush…

SUPPLIES • 1/3 yard each of faux fur, satin (lining) & heavyweight, stiff woven fabric (such as canvas or denim; interlining)• 1/3 yard of extra-heavyweight interfacing (See “Sources.”)• Matching all-purpose thread• Hand sewing needle• Binding clips (See “Sources.”) PREPARE Download and print the Plush Pillbox pattern from sewdaily.com/go/SNfreebies; cut out. Cut one crown and band each from the faux fur, lining, interlining and interfacing. Position the interfacing pieces to the corresponding interlining crown and band wrong sides; pin. Baste each crown and band perimeter. Pin the band short ends together. Stand the band on a flat work surface and check to make sure it doesn’t wobble or fold. If needed, add another interfacing layer for more structure. CONSTRUCT Use 1/2" seam allowances unless otherwise noted. Position the crown lining right…

SUPPLIES Supplies listed are enough to create one stocking. • 1/2 yard of buffalo plaid fabric• Faux fur panel• Matching all-purpose thread• 6” length of 3/4”-wide ribbon• Serger or pinking shears (optional) PREPARE Download and print the Snowy Day Stocking pattern at sewdaily.com/go/SNfreebies; cut out. Fold the plaid fabric in half length- wise with right sides together, and then cut two stockings from the fabric. From the faux fur, cut a 4”x16” rectangle. CONSTRUCT Use 1/2" seam allowances unless otherwise noted. Press each stocking upper edge 1/2” toward the wrong side; edgestitch the raw edge to secure (1). Position the two stockings with right sides together; pin. Stitch the perimeter, leaving the stocking upper edge open. Finish the seam allowance using a serger, zigzag stitch or pinking shears. Turn the…

Skill Level: Beginner SUPPLIES Supplies listed are enough to make two pairs of earrings. • 8›1/2”x11” sheet each of plaid & black-glitter faux leather (See “Sources.”)• Two 4mm-diameter jump rings• Four 7mm-diameter jump rings• Two pairs of earring posts & backs• Two fishhook earring wires• Jewelry pliers• 1.25mm-diameter jewelry punch or similar-size hole punch• Glue: craft & super• Small paintbrush• Cutting machine (See “Sources.”) or craft knife & cutting mat PREPARE If using a cutting machine, down- load the earring pattern file from sewdaily.com/go/SNfreebies. Load the files onto the cutting machine. If using a craft knife & cutting mat, download and print the earring pattern from sewdaily.com/go/SNfreebies. From the plaid faux leather, cut four large circles and two small teardrops. From the glitter faux leather, cut four small circles and…

SEW ALONG WITH US Register at sewdaily.com during the month of December and January to get the Palmer Pullover pattern and video sew-along course free! Then sew up a cozy hoodie for yourself, a loved one, a husband, uncle or son — anyone in your life who needs a cozy me-made for the holidays! By registering, you’re automatically entered to win a new serger from Husqvarna Viking. THE PATTERN Perfect for movie snuggles, last-minute holiday errands or jumping into gym resolutions after the new year, the Palmer Pullover also makes the perfect gift! Sewn up in fleece or French terry, this hoodie is sure to make everyone on your list happy — including yourself! Stitch one in solid or with tonal colorblocking; pattern pieces for both options are provided. The…