Innholdsfortegnelse for October/November 2019 i Sew News

DEAR READERS, Is there a season when you love to sew? In my book, winter and sewing just go together! There’s nothing like a snowy day to get me in the mood for standing over a hot iron, surrounding myself with colorful cloth and sewing the day away with a hot cup of tea. I’m in my happy place in that cozy scene, friends. How about you? And another question: what is the status of your sewing pattern library? Be truthful! I have so many patterns that I’m not sure I need more (but you know I’m going to be tempted!). What I do love, at this point in my sewing journey, is a good hack: something that takes a basic pattern and gives it new life. The hacks in…

1. If you’ve ever lost a sweater to moth holes, the Moth Hole Mending Kit is for you. It won’t bring back the original sweater, but it will bring it back from the donation pile. It’s packaged in compostable plastic and includes everything you need to embroider four moths on your clothing, including stick-and-stitch moth designs, needle, thread, hoop and instructions. wrenbirdarts.com 2. Elevate your fall look with the Loretta Jacket Pattern. This knee-length collarless jacket has gentle shaping and pretty flared cuffs. It’s casual enough for weekend wear, but its classic princess seams make it appropriate office wear as well. www.zigzagdesigns.biz 3. Golden Girls fans, rejoice! The Cross Stitch the Golden Girls Kit brings your favorite group of female friends back to life. This collection of images, direct quotes…

Picture someone who sews. What do they look like? The beauty of the sewing community is that you could imagine absolutely anyone, because sewing is for everyone. At The Sewcialists we aim to create a safe space where all sewists see themselves represented, regardless of age, size, gender, orientation, ethnicity, ability and skill level. We tarted the blog in 2013 and coined the term “sewcialist” to include anyone who loves sewing and social media. So if you sew, and you talk about it online, you are a Sewcialist! We publish three blog posts a week at TheSewcialists.com with at least 100 different authors each year, all created and shared by volunteers. One of our favorite series is “Who We Are,” where we invite people to share how identity impacts their…

Skill Level: Beginner SUPPLIES Supplies listed are enough to make one pillow cover. • 2/3 yard of cotton twill fabric (main)• 1/4 yard of 48"-wide faux fur• 22" regular zipper• Needles: hand sewing & size 90/14 jeans• Tailor’s chalk• All-purpose thread• Zipper foot• 20" pillow form• Serger (optional) PREPARE From the main fabric, cut one 21" square for the pillow front, one 20 1/2"×21" rectangle for the pillow back and on 2 1/2"×21" rectangle for the zipper panel. Serge- or zigzag-finish the pillow front, back and zipper-panel perimeter. From the faux fur, cut two strips measuring 4"× the fabric width. CONSTRUCT Abut the faux-fur strips along the short ends; hand stitch (1). Continue piecing together strips to create a 90" strip length. Position the pillow back right side up over…

Over the course of two warm, sunny summer days in Detroit in August 2018, local fiber and textile enthusiasts gathered in a renovated 1940s U.S. Post Office building to learn how to screen-print tote bags, try their hands at embroidery, dye fabric with natural materials and turn denim scraps into one-of-a-kind totes for the first-annual Textile Takeover at POST Detroit. The event was hosted by POST owners Clare Fox and Wayne Maki as a celebration of their locally-sourced storefront, which also doubles as a maker and education space, thanks to weekly DIY workshops hosted by area makers, artists and teachers. With a natural dye garden situated within the front corner of the property, talented makers willing to show off their talents and a community eager to learn, a weekend dedicated…

Skill Level: Beginner SUPPLIES • Travel bag pattern (such as BurdaStyle 7119)• 13/4 yards of waxed canvas• 1 yard each of 55"-wide lightweight woven cotton (lining) & heavyweight fusible interfacing• Two 11/2"×42" leather straps• Punches: fabric & single leather• 16 double-capped or standard rivets & attachment tool• Three 3/4"-diameter magnetic snaps• Size 100/16 universal needle• Coordinating polyester thread• Geometric stencil (See “Sources.”)• 12 ounces of fabric spray paint (See “Sources.”)• Temporary spray adhesive• Press cloth• Binding clips (See “Sources.”) tip If using a medium-weight home-décor fabric for the lining, select a lightweight fusible interfacing. PREPARE Cut out the pattern pieces from the waxed canvas and lining according to the pattern instructions. The featured bag uses two coordinating waxed canvas colors for the bag exterior. Cut out the pattern pieces from…

Occasionally, the pattern will include a separate back lining with a wearing ease pleat. This makes the jacket more comfortable to wear and easier for the wearer to move their arms forward without ripping the back lining open. If the pattern doesn’t have that feature, add the ease pleat yourself using the following steps. • Measure 11/2" out from the center-back seam near the neckline. Draw a line parallel to center back. Continue that line down the back and gently curve it, starting just above the back waist marking. Blend the line into the existing seam (A). • Make a “V” clip at the top of the back lining pattern to indicate the center back. Measure 2" down along center-back seam, and draw a dot to indicate the end of…

SEW ALONG WITH US Register at videos.sewdaily.com during the month of October to get the pattern and video sew-along course free! Then sew this fall wardrobe must-have — with us! By registering, you're automatically entered to win a BRILLIANCETM 75Q sewing machine from Husqvarna Viking. Give your knit blazer a professional finish with the BRILLIANCETM 75Q sewing machine. Pick from a variety of stretch stitches on the machine that are perfect for stable ponte knits (and all the knits). The Exclusive Sewing AdvisorTM and Exclusive Sensor SystemTM ensure your Silverton Blazer is impeccable, start to finish. Brought to you by THE PATTERN We are loving the blazer trend this fall, but not necessarily all the fitting that comes with a traditional woven design. The Silverton Blazer pattern is an ideal…

Take your loungewear to the street with this trend that is still going strong. If you value comfort in your fashion, then this look is for you. Pair with either sneakers or heels to bring different vibes to the ensemble, and opt for silky fabrics with contrast piping to make all the seams pop! This style is chic from head to toe, and you can feel right at home anywhere you go in these traveling pajamas. TOP PATTERNS Opt for a loose-fitting blouse pattern with a notched collar, breast pocket and sleeve cuffs for inserting piping. PANTS PATTERNS Pick a pants pattern with a wide leg silhouette, cuff at the hemline and an elasticated waistband for optimum comfort. TIP: Want pockets? Draft them yourself if they’re not included in the…

“When we know how to adapt classic garments to suit our style, age, shape and size, we are a step ahead of seasonal trends.” SN: Describe your perfect day. SG: In reality, I have no perfect days because I put too much on my plate, but my fantasy perfect day…. Wake up to a perfect cappuccino in an Italian villa followed by a morning of fabric shopping. Lunch in Paris then off to a Chanel runway show. An evening glass of champagne prior to an opera at the Met and hitting the sack in my own bed. SN: What's your must-have tool in your studio? SG: My left-handed Kai scissors! SN: What's your greatest extravagance? SG: Food and culture! I’m always up for fine dining, concerts, performances, gallery and museum…

SN: Why sewing? BS: I fell in love with sewing about 12 years ago, when I ambitiously agreed to make matching shirts for my friends and I to wear to a concert. My naive attempt ended in failure but birthed a love for the mechanics and creativity that sewing clothing fostered. As with most interests in my life, I jumped in headfirst and engrossed myself in online blogs and videos. But, also as a perfectionist, it was quite a while before I made something that I actually wore. Fast forward a couple of years, I began working with an event producer designing and creating elaborate costumes for charity events. I also began taking on commission work and started my journey into creating custom bridal and evening gowns, in addition to…

Skill Level: Beginner SUPPLIES • Dress pattern intended for stretch or knit fabrics with one bust dart (such as BurdaStyle #102 04/2015)• Stretch or knit fabric (amount according to the pattern envelope plus 1/3 yard)• Thread: all-purpose & stretch (optional; see “Sources”)• Sewing machine needles: 90/14 ballpoint or stretch & twin (optional)• Pattern or tracing paper• Pen or pencil• Rulers: curved and straight• Rotary cutting system PREPARE If using a digital pattern, print, tile and tape the pattern pieces together. Measure your bust, waist and hip circumferences to best determine the correct size for the dress. ALTER On the front pattern, draw a line from the dart tip to intersect the center front at a 90° angle. Draw another line perpendicular to center front extending to the middle of the…

Skill Level: Beginner SUPPLIES • One pair L or XL non-stretch denim jeans• 1/2 yard each of coordinating lining & lightweight fusible interfacing• Two 1"-wide 18"-long leather straps• All-purpose thread• Size 100/16 denim needle• Removable fabric marker• Rotary cutting system• Removable fabric marker• Four rivets & attachment tool• Denim presser foot (optional) tip Choose an old pair of non-stretch jeans from your wardrobe for the project or purchase used denim at a local thrift store, garage sale or clothing swap. PREPARE Prewash and dry the jeans. Position the jeans on a flat work surface. Remove each pant leg just below the crotch, and then trim away the hems. Trim away the outer leg seam and inseam (1). Cut and square the pant legs into four separate panels using a rotary…

BISHOP SLEEVE HACK Add puffed sleeves and length for a dramatic gray rib-knit cardigan. Skill Level: Beginner SUPPLIES • Cardigan pattern (see “Source”)• Rib knit fabric (amount according to the pattern envelope plus 1/2 yard)• All-purpose thread• Pattern or tracing paper ALTER Lengthen the front and back bodice pieces by cutting across the lengthen/ shorten line and spreading it 10". Place a piece of pattern paper underneath and tape in place. True the side, center back and center front lines. Add 1›1/2" to the front and back hems. Trace a copy of the sleeve pattern onto a piece of pattern paper. Draw a horizontal line across the middle (or at the lengthen/shorten line, if there is one) of the pattern. Draw a vertical line down the middle of the sleeve.…

tip Select fusible interfacing that corresponds to the coat fabric chosen. Skill Level: Advanced SUPPLIES • Trench coat pattern (such as BurdaStyle 10/2018 #107B)• Mediumweight outerwear fabric (amount according to measurements)• Interfacing & notions (amount according to the pattern envelope)• 2 yards of lining• 1 yard of faux leather• Pair of shoulder pads• Needles: size 100/16 leather & universal• All-purpose thread• Pattern or tracing paper• Straight ruler• Removable fabric marker• PTFE foot PREPARE Cut out the pattern pieces. Before beginning the alterations, pin-fit or make a muslin-fitting sample of the selected pattern. Make any necessary fit adjustments to the pattern, and then trace a copy on paper, transferring all markings. ALTER Determine the desired coat length from your shoulder to hemline; record the measurement. Compare the pattern length to the…

Sewing a lining into a jacket can seem like an impossible task, especially if you consider yourself "lining challenged." But just think of it as sewing the garment you’ve just made in a different fabric and connecting them together, and it won’t be so intimidating. Linings serve many purposes: they conceal and protect the inner construction and seams, allow you to express your creativity or sense of style, and make your jackets more comfortable to wear over other clothing. Depending on your choice of fabrics, they can add warmth or coolness against your skin. They can absorb or wick moisture, or have a bit of Lycra for stretch and comfort. GENERAL TIPS Consider using "taut" sewing for more smooth or slippery fabrics. Gently but firmly hold the fabric with the…

As any of you who listen to the Sew & Tell podcast know, I’m going to Austria in late October/early November. My father-in-law was born in Vienna, and I’ll be going with my husband and his immediate family. I had not initially planned to make a capsule wardrobe for the trip. But then we decided to go later in the fall than originally planned, and I realized I didn’t have many me-mades that fit into that time of year (an ongoing struggle for me). In addition, I decided on a whim to make a coat — BurdaStyle #112 12/2018 — which I realized would be perfect for the weather at that time of year. However, the fabric I chose was brown, and I don’t wear brown a lot, so I…

CRAFTING A PATTERNED HOME by Kristin Nicolas With brushes and paint, needles and thread and a little imagination, Kristin Nicholas shows you how to transform your home into a space that sings. Explore different types of patterns and how to mix and layer them together, learn DIY techniques to transform your home and discover projects, inspiration and ideas for enlivening your space. roostbooks.com MENDING MATTERS by Katrina Rodabaugh This book showcases current trends in visible mending that are edgy, modern and bold but draw on four traditional stitching methods. Katrina Rodabaugh examines the ways mending teaches us new skills, self-reliance and confidence. Explore the benefits of slow fashion and discover how mending leads to a more mindful relationship with your clothing. abramsbooks.com SEWING ROOM SECRETS: MACHINE SEWING by Debbie Shore…

PAULINE BRUCE (“Cardi of Two” — page 48), aka @sewuthinkucan on IG, has been sewing since age five. She expresses her creativity through pattern hacking by customizing commercial sewing patterns to create garments that are unique and reflect her personality. Pauline is fascinated by the versatility of stripes and loves to manipulate them in a variety of ways when making her clothes. She’s a homeschool mom who currently lives in northern California with her husband and three children. LINDSAY CONNER (“Neutral Note Wall Hanging” — page 52) is a writer, editor and modern quilter. Her books include On the Go Bags, Modern Bee and The T-Shirt Quilt Book, and she recently co-compiled the book FreeSpirit Modern Blocks (Stash Books). Lindsay keeps busy as an ambassador for Baby Lock sewing machines,…

Play & Win! What is it? Pictured at left is part of a photo from this issue. When you find it, enter online at sewnews.com or send a postcard with the page you found it on to Sew News, Hide & Seek, 741 Corporate Circle, Ste. A, Golden, CO 80401. Responses are due September 30, 2019. From the correct responses, we’ll randomly draw five winners, one of which could be you. Congratulations to the August/September 2019 Hide & Seek winners! Joyce A., Saunemin, IL Sheila N., Arcadia, WI Janice M., Ormond Beach, FL Betsy G., Fort Wayne, IN Mary R., Bradenton, FL…

THREAD BASICS It’s very important that your thread is compatible with the properties and fiber content of your chosen fabric to avoid popped stitches and wavy seamlines. For most sewing projects, cotton-wrapped polyester thread, also known as all-purpose thread, is appropriate. This thread has the strength of polyester and the soft, matte look of cotton. It works for both machine and hand sewing projects. For light- to mediumweight natural-fiber fabrics with little to no stretch, use 100% cotton thread. This thread has very little give and less strength than polyester, so it works for topstitching and seams that don’t receive lots of stress. Don’t use cotton thread with knits or synthetic fabrics; its lack of stretch can result in broken seams. For stretch or synthetic fabrics, 100% polyester thread is…

Skill Level: Beginner SUPPLIES • Draped-front cardigan pattern with high-low hem (such as Style Sew Me Madison Cardigan) or a basic blazer pattern with a waistline seam (such as Style Sew Me Nikki Blazer)• Faux suede fabric (amount according to pattern envelope)• All-purpose thread• Removable fabric marker ALTER If using a pattern that already has a voluminous high-low hem, such as the featured Madison Cardigan, skip to the “Cut” instructions. Otherwise, follow the instructions below to alter a basic blazer pattern. Select a blazer pattern with a waistline seam. Cut out the pattern pieces. Before beginning the alterations, pin-fit or make a muslin-fitting sample of the selected pattern. Make any necessary fit adjustments to the pattern, and then trace a copy on paper, transferring all markings. Position the lower-back pattern…

The basic tote is a great starting place for customization. Use the same basic steps to create a pieced tote (such a great way to upcycle odd scraps!). Keep finished seams intact as design details and lengthen the strap for an easy-to-wear crossbody bag. Increase the size for a messenger-style bag with unique pieced elements featuring the upcycled fabric wrong side. RE-SOURCING FABRIC Try reaching out to clothing and textile companies based in your hometown or region to see how you can put their scraps and extra fabric to work. Detroit Denim, known for creating high-quality denim goods within the city of Detroit, is a company known for helping makers in their community. Scraps are often made available to those looking to work with them, and their studio doors are…

Skill Level: Beginner SUPPLIES Supplies listed are enough to make one 14"×17" wall hanging. • 1 yard of solid cream cotton fabric• 1/4 yard of bronze cotton fabric• 1/8 yard each of striped & black cotton fabric• 18"×21" rectangle of batting• All-purpose thread• 15" length of 2"-wide tassel fringe• 18" length of 1/4"- or 3/8"-diameter wood dowel• 3 yards of jute string• Clear craft glue• Temporary spray adhesive• Hand sewing needle CUT From the cream fabric, cut two strips measuring 4"× the fabric width, one strip measuring 1 3/4"× the fabric width, one 15"×18 1/2" rectangle for the back panel and one 3 1/2"×15" strip for the casing. From one large cream strip, cut five 4" squares and four 3 5/8" squares. Cut each large square in half diagonally. From…