Innholdsfortegnelse for June/July 2019 i Sew News

SUPPLIES • Wide-leg pants or culottes pattern (such as Burdastyle #108 11/2018)• Loose-fit woven tank pattern (such as Burdastyle #111A 05/2016)• 3 yards of lightweight woven fabric• 16"-long invisible zipper• Fusible interfacing• Thread: all-purpose & contrasting topstitching• Pattern or tracing paper• Pen or pencil• Rulers: curved & straight• Pen or pencil• Hand-sewing needle PREPARE If using a digital pattern, print, tile and tape the pattern pieces together for both the tank and the bottoms. Measure the hip circumference to determine the best size for the pants, and use the bust circumference to determine the best size for the tank. Using a measuring tape, measure the front torso length from the crotch to the center of the chest (or wherever the tank front neckline hits). Add 2" and record as the…

the benefits of a capsule wardrobe are clear when it comes to travel: a small collection of coordinating items that can be worn in a variety of combinations and easily dressed up or down depending on where your adventures take you. Even better if the items pack together tightly and use fabrics that don’t wrinkle in your suitcase. But what combination is right for you? PEGGY MEAD SewHouse7.com @sewhouse7 Every year my family usually takes at least one trip to somewhere warm and tropical so packing is a bit easier for me than if I were heading to a city in the winter. I used to make a statement piece and plan a whole mini-wardrobe around our trips, but I have finally wised up over the last few years. I’ve…

Skill Level: Beginner SUPPLIES • Woven fabric & lightweight fusible interfacing (amount according to your measurements)• All-purpose thread• Pattern or tracing paper• Buttonhole foot• Serger (optional) DRAFT Measure the fullest part of your hip, and then multiply by 1.5; record as the hip measurement. Measure from your shoulder to the desired kaftan length, and then add 11/2"; record as the length measurement. On a piece of pattern paper, draw a rectangle according to the hip and length measurements (1); cut out. Designate as the main panel. PREPARE From the fabric, cut two main panels and two 3"× the fabric width strips for the waist tie. Designate one main panel as the front and the remaining as the back. Fold the front panel in half along the center front with right…

Skill Level: Intermediate SUPPLIES • Semi-fitted sleeveless knit tank top pattern (such as Straight Stitch Designs Greenwood Tank)• Knit fabric that has at least 50% stretch and weighs at least 5.5oz/yard (amount according to pattern envelope plus 1/2 yard)• Lightweight fusible interfacing• All-purpose thread• Straight ruler• Pattern or tracing paper• Removable fabric marker• Serger (optional) PREPARE Choose the pattern size according to your bust measurement and one size larger than your current hip size. If your cup size is already two sizes larger than what the pattern is drafted for, choose a size according to your high bust measurement and do a full bust adjustment. Trace the pattern pieces onto new pattern paper. DRAFT On the front and back bodice, draw a slightly curved line from the armscye/side seam intersection…

SN: Describe your perfect day. AA: Sleeping in, brunch, going for a hike, reading somewhere quiet with a coffee, meeting good friends for dinner and watching some “Parks and Rec” in bed. I’m a pretty simple lady! SN: What’s your best way to decompress? AA: I’ve established good boundaries, I stay away from internet drama, I say no ALL the time and I’ve surrounded myself with awesome people who do the same. And I don’t have toddlers. So I don’t really find a need to decompress very often but I do love reading in bed or taking a hot shower at the end of a busy day! SN: What’s your greatest extravagance? AA: Boots in general, Frye boots in particular. I also have a considerable Pendleton blanket habit. I don’t…

Q I’m looking for tips for stitching up a few coordinated pieces that will fit my curves and fit into a carry-on for my upcoming beach vacation. I am a full-figured hourglass with a limited budget. What will work best? A Strategically sewing up a travel wardrobe assures that the pieces will coordinate nicely and feel great. Plan to sew fabrics in your favorite colors that coordinate with the swimsuit, shoes and jewelry you already have and plan to take. Check your stash first for fabric inspiration. Summer fabrics tend to be inexpensive so enjoy shopping. Start with a button-up swim cover-up that can double as a tunic or light jacket. Use easy-care fabrics that have been prewashed to make a short knit dress, or skirt and top, tapered paints,…

As I mentioned in episode two of our podcast Sew & Tell, I think the best thing to make for a trip is a jumpsuit! Can’t find a jumpsuit pattern that you love? No problem — simply take your favorite bottoms and tank pattern and put them together to create a custom jumpsuit to fit your size and style. Wear the jumpsuit on its own on hot days, or layer over a T-shirt or turtleneck to suit cooler weather. You can even wear it under sweaters so just the bottoms shows. So versatile!…

1 Grainline Studio Linden Sweatshirt  Perfect for the plane ride, I always bring a Linden Sweatshirt as it's often cold. 2 Grainline Studio Penny Raglan  Loose enough to create great airflow on a hot day yet cover my shoulders if my skin needs a break from the sun. 3 Sew House Seven Underwood Tank Dress and Top I wanted a tank dress that could be used as a cover-up for the beach and an everyday dress for walking and sight-seeing but would look nice enough to wear to dinner with some nicer shoes.…

Skill Level: Beginner SUPPLIES • Woven fabric (amount according to chart below)• Lightweight fusible interfacing• All-purpose thread• Serger (optional) PREPARE Download the Sunny Vibes Blouse pattern from sewnews.com/web_extras for free until July 31, 2019. Purchase the pattern at interweave.com/sewing after the expiration date. Tile and cut out the pattern pieces. From the fabric, cut one front, one back, one front-hem facing, one back-hem facing, one front-neckline facing and one back-neckline facing on the fold. Also cut two sleeves. From the interfacing, cut one front-hem facing, one back hem facing, one front-neckline facing and one back-neckline facing on the fold. Select a 1.5mm stitch length. Staystitch the front and back necklines and armscyes using a 1/2" seam allowance. Fuse the interfacing to the corre- sponding piece wrong sides following the manufacturer’s…

Skill Level: Intermediate SUPPLIES • Straight skirt pattern (such as BurdaStyle #109B 03/2017)• 1 yard each of poplin fabric with thin stripes & poplin fabric with thick stripes• 1 yard of thin white cotton for the lining• 8" regular or invisible zipper• Lightweight fusible interfacing• One 5/8"-diameter button• Rulers: curved & straight PREPARE Cut out the pattern pieces. Before beginning the alterations, pin-fit or make a muslin-fitting sample of the selected pattern. Make any necessary fit adjustments to the pattern, and then trace two copies on paper, one for the skirt and one for the lining, transferring all markings. Set the lining pattern aside. ALTER On the skirt front and back, extend the side seams to midi length. Draw in a new hemline parallel to the original. Align the front…

Before beginning, note that the seam finishes outlined here require a minimum 5/8" seam allowance to allow enough fabric to finish the raw edges. In most cases, the seams will be stitched with a standard 2½" stitch length. This will vary when sewing a heavier fabric. Use your discretion when choosing a seam finish. Make sure the finish is not too heavy for the seams in the garment. Stitch some test samples of the different types in order to make the best choice, then keep them in a notebook for future reference. TURNED AND STITCHED This is a great default seam finish for many garments. The turned and stitched method can be used on many fabric types, from very light- to medium-weight wovens. Stitch using a 5/8" seam allowance and…

Skill Level: Beginner SUPPLIES Supplies listed are enough to make one pillow cover. • 2/3 yards of cream linen fabric (main) • 1/4 yard each of black & tan woven cotton fabric (appliqués) • Scraps of dark tan, charcoal & white woven cotton fabric (appliqués) • 12"×24" rectangle of paper-backed double-sided lightweight fusible web • Matching cotton thread • 18"-long invisible zipper • Presser feet: invisible zipper or zipper & regular • 20" square pillow form • Painter’s tape • Serger (optional) PREPARE From the main fabric, cut two 21" squares. Designate one square as the pillow front and the other as the pillow back. Serge- or zigzag-finish one edge on each pillow square. Designate as the lower edge. Download the appliqué templates at sewnews.com/web_extras. Print the appliqué templates. Trace…

LUNCH-HOUR WOOL MINIS by Kathy Brown So small, so sweet — so simple to complete! All that’s needed is a needle, thread, wool and a little time to make 14 cute and creative projects. Even beginners can easily appliqué these charming seasonal and everyday décor pieces and complete each in a few lunch hours or less. shopmartingale.com FABRIC SAVVY by Sandra Betzina This is the must-have guide for all garment and home-dec sewists. Each of the 107 fabrics features detailed information on laying out, marking and cutting the fabric; choosing the best thread, needle, stitch length and presser foot; care recommendations and more. A comprehensive set of appendices covers additional things to know, such as choosing interfacing and removing stains, guaranteeing success for every sewist. taunton.com SEWING SHIRTS WITH A…

Nothing says summer sophistication like a maxi dress. Dramatic, formal or casual (often depending on accessories) and often well-suited for travel, maxi dresses are a favorite around here. Whether you’re looking for maximum coverage or something a little daring, we’ve assembled a smashing collection of maxi dresses with a variety of unique details for your summer sewing pleasure. Burda Style Maxi Dress #125 06/2016 When it comes to maxi dress designs, we are team wrap. This pattern features side panels that meet at the front for a unique faux wrap and a sweet gathered neckline, but the overall silhouette remains loose and luxurious . . . pair with strappy sandals and take us somewhere tropical! Charlie Caftan by Closet Case Patterns Oh, summer caftan, run away with us forever and…

Play & Win! What is it? Pictured at left is part of a photo from this issue. When you find it, enter online at sewnews.com or send a postcard with the page you found it on to Sew News, Hide & Seek, 741 Corporate Circle, Ste. A, Golden, CO 80401. Responses are due May 31, 2019. From the correct responses, we’ll randomly draw five winners, one of which could be you. Congratulations to the April/May 2019 Hide & Seek winners! Zmira C., Brooklyn, NY Gwendolyn B., Antioch, CA Mary C., Coos Bay, OR Sarah H., Lenoir, NC Mary S., Barefoot Bay, OR…

When it comes to finishing a garment or decorative project, choosing the right fastener can make the difference between a professional or obviously handmade look. With the array of fasteners on the market, choosing the right one and knowing how to apply it is a snap. SNAPS These sturdy closures are often used on children’s clothing, men’s shirts and at cuff openings. There are three basic types of snaps: sew-on, covered and no-sew. SEW-ON SNAPS have two basic components: a ball insertion piece (male) and a socket, or receiving, piece (female). COVERED SNAPS are just that, sew-on snaps that have been covered with fabric to coordinate with a project. They come pre-covered in neutral colors, or you can cover them as you would a button. To cover a snap, cut…

SN: Who has been influential in your sewing journey? RC: There have been many people who have influenced me as I continue this sewing journey. I owned a retail sewing shop for nearly 20 years, and when I first purchased it, customers began asking me to teach sewing classes, something that was remarkably distant from any intention I had. Like myself, I presumed folks would just bumble through projects on their own. It never occurred to me that people would take a sewing class. But I acquiesced and learned quickly how much I loved teaching. I also learned that if you remain honest about your ability and remain at least one step ahead of your students, you develop confidence, both within and from your students. Once I learned to ride…

1 Lodo Dress by True Bias  I’ve made six to date. A great candidate for hacks! They sew up quickly and are easily dressed up or down. Ponte or Liverpool knits are my favorite fabrics to sew the Lodo with. 2 Kabuki Tee by Paper Theory  I’ve made one in a knit fabric and another in a woven, and cannot wait to make several more. I love the square armholes and boxy fit. It could be sewn with elongated sleeves or lengthened into a dress. It lends itself to creative modifications like mixed-media and stripe play. 3 Simplicity Patterns 8296 Off-the-shoulder Top  I’ve made three tops and will be making more. Not only is this top flattering but the fit is spot on. I played with the sleeve length and…

Skill Level: Beginner SUPPLIES • 2 yards each of canvas & fusible fleece• All-purpose thread• Indigo dye kit (See "Sources.")• 1/2 cup of soda ash (also known as sodium carbonate; See "Sources.")• 5 gallon bucket• Two 36"-long wood dowels• Plastic sheeting, tarps or old towels• Clothesline• 1" lobster clasp & D-ring• 83" of 1"-wide leather strap• Eight 8mm-diameter double-cap rivets & attachment tool• One size 20 metal snap & attachment tool• Removable fabric marker• Point turner TOTE PREPARE To scour the fabric and prevent future shrinkage, wash the canvas fabric in hot water with 1/2 cup of soda ash. Dry the fabric. From the canvas, cut four 19"×22" rectangles for the main panels and two 6"×66" rectangles for the gusset. Designate two main panels and one gusset as the lining…

Skill Level: Beginner SUPPLIES • Woven dress or tunic with button-up front• 1/3 yard of coordinating woven fabric• 1"-wide elastic (amount depending on measurements)• Interfacing• Pattern paper PREPARE Put the dress on and mark your waist. Measure from the hem to the waist marking. Add seam allowance. Use this measurement to mark the waist around the back and remaining side of the dress. Measure straight across your collarbone width; record. Draw a square bib up from the waist and centered on the dress front using this measurement. The finished featured bib measures 71/2"×81/2". Add 1/4" seam allowances to the sides and upper edge. Cut the dress, following the waist- line and around the shape of the bib (1). Cut two 3"-wide straps from the bodice you cut off. The length…

If you’re a garment sewist, getting pregnant definitely impacts your favorite hobby. Maybe you’re excited about the new opportunities it provides, or maybe you’re irritated about not being able to wear your existing wardrobe. Either way, here are some guidelines for smart maternity sewing. MATERNITY WARDROBE SELECTION Creating a capsule wardrobe consists of a few pieces that work well together. Mix and match different tops, bottoms and dresses sewn in coordinating fabrics. To assemble a good maternity capsule wardrobe that will last through the weight gain and loss, select knit and stretch fabrics. The season during your second and third trimester determines what garment and fabric types you choose. Choose a pair of leggings, skirt with an elastic waistband, short and long-sleeve tops, dress and a cardigan as a base…

Many fabrics can be used for bias strips, such as quilting cottons, silk crepe de chine, china silk, silk dupioni, silk charmeuse, silk organza, polyester organza and other lightweight synthetics. Prints add a beautiful and interesting touch to these seam finishes, but solids can be used as well. Be sure that your choices are lighter weight than the fabric used for your garments to minimize the weight added to the seams. To make the bias strips, place the fabric in a single layer right side up on a flat cutting surface. Lift a corner of the fabric and fold diagonally with the upper cut edge touching the original fold of the fabric, forming a 45° triangle shape (A). The folded edge of the triangle is a guide to cut the…

Most of us can agree on the incredible benefits of making things by hand. Some might even attest that the desire to make is simply a shared human impulse. We gain confidence; build technical skill; deepen our connection to ourselves, our ancestors and each other; engage socially and/or politically; learn new ways of seeing; accept imperfection; study history, economics and politics; create meaning; embrace ritual and routine; and reap the many benefits of joy. As a lifelong artist, I do not need to be convinced of the benefits of creativity; I’m guessing most of you don’t either. Yet as a lifelong environmentalist, I’ve often felt conflicted about the impact of my personal expression. While my creativity is an asset for my mind, body and spirit, is it good for the…

JUNE PAGOSA PANTS BY KIMBERLY PAYNE OF STRAIGHT STITCH DESIGNS Exclusively for Sew News SEW WITH US Register at videos.sewdaily.com during the month of June to get the pattern and video sew-along course free! Then sew a pair of Pagosa pants during the month. By registering, you're automatically entered to win a BRILLIANCETM 75Q sewing machine from Husqvarna Viking. Sewing the Pagosa Pants is a breeze with the BRILLIANCETM 75Q sewing machine. You’ll want to use an edgestitch foot for stitching those pockets on perfectly, and the Exclusive Sewing AdvisorTM and Exclusive Sensor SystemTM ensures everything, even slippery fabrics, feed through evenly and without puckers. Brought to you by THE PATTERN We love love love a swishy pant for summertime! And the Pagosa Pants are that in spades. With two…

The seventies are back! The hottest trend spotted on the runways makes its street-style debut. Enjoy a blast from the past this season and recreate the seventies trend for modern times using fun, vibrant prints and high-waisted wide-leg pants. That’s right: those pant hemlines are coming back out again and flare is totally in! To top off those flares, balance the silhouette with an iconic pussy-bow blouse to round out this trending retro style. BLOUSE PATTERNS Look for a flowy blouse pattern with a front button-up closure and a bow, big or small. PANTS PATTERNS Opt for a natural to high-waist pair of pants that has some flare. TIP: For a smoother look, try omitting the pockets from the pattern. COLOR PALETTE Go for bright colors and retro prints! But…

RAE CUMBIE (“Curve Appeal: Summertime Sewing” — page 22) is the Creative Director at Fit for Art Patterns, which offers patterns for modern wardrobe basics that focus on fit and include artful design options. She coaches sewists of all skill levels, in classes and on her blog, to stitch up a fun and comfortable wardrobe and design more creatively. fitforartpatterns.com MEG HEALY (“Pattern Play: Jet-Away Jumpsuit” — page 28) has a passion for sewing that led her to study Fashion Design in NYC where she also interned for Vera Wang as a pattern maker. She’s now the editor, lead educator and face of BurdaStyle.com, the world’s largest online sewing community. PAM HOWARD (“Masterclass: Fab Finish” — page 68) owns Pamela's Closet, Inc., which specializes in ladies couture tailoring, advanced sewing…