Innholdsfortegnelse for June - July 2018 i Sew News

DEAR READERS, Have you ever sewn your own swimwear? Over the years we’ve presented many swimwear patterns and technique articles for working with swimwear fabrics. But I’m curious to know how many of you have actually taken the plunge. I truly believe that sewing up a suit yourself is less daunting and cringe-worthy than buying one. Shopping for a pattern is a lot more fun than shopping for a suit, that’s for sure. Think about it: You have to try on numerous styles and sizes under fluorescent lighting while wearing undergarments and trying not to judge yourself for not working out enough, eating that second piece of pie or having hairy legs. You settle for a suit that may or may not make you feel great, just to get it…

Play & Win! What is it? Pictured at left is part of a photo from this issue. When you find it, enter online at sewnews.com or send a postcard with the page you found it on to Sew News, Hide & Seek, 741 Corporate Circle, Ste. A, Golden, CO 80401. Responses are due June 30, 2018. From the correct responses, we’ll randomly draw five winners, one of which could be you. The June/July ’18 winners will receive a pack of accessory patterns. Congratulations to the Apr/May ’18 Hide & Seek winners! We randomly selected five winners. Nancy G., Wenatchee, WA Marlene K., Nowata, OK Zepherine K., Ames, IA Gertrude M., Farmington, MN Vicky C., Muscoda, WI…

KARRY BROOK@karry.brook & goodsdetroit.com Sewing my own swimsuit was so transformational! I’d have never had the courage to buy a suit like I made if I hadn’t sewn it myself. There’s something in the actual construction of sewing that just gives you the confidence to own it. I’d absolutely sew another swimsuit. Like most sewing, once you make one, the rush to make more just happens! TRACY MCELFRESH @tracysews & tracyssewingstudio.com I own a sewing service business and teach, and I knew sewing swimwear would be a great skill to have. Before I started, I researched online and everywhere I looked people said to buy the book Kwik-Sew’s Swim & Action Wear. The book appears seriously dated although all of the information inside is very valuable. For my first suit…

Fruit-shaped clutches and bags have been making an appearance at fashion week and on the red carpet. Summer, when fruit is in-season literally and fashion-wise, is the perfect time to jump on this trend and have fun with your handbag. The construction of this bag isn’t complicated, but the result has a real wow factor. If watermelon isn’t your thing, it’s easy to make this pattern as a citrus fruit instead. Change the fabric colors accordingly and adjust the topstitching to outline the fruit sections. Add larger white seeds, or omit the seeds entirely.…

Jessica Ziebarth ASSISTANT EDITOR PATTERN: DURANGO TANK HEY JUNE HANDMADE FIGURE TYPE: ALL, ESPECIALLY HOURGLASS FABRIC: 1017-03 DOTS | BLACK, CLOUD9 KNITS REVIEW: This pattern gives instructions to alter the two back pieces to better accommodate a swoop back, so the knit fabric doesn’t get bunched up around the hips. By far the easiest knit neckband instructions to follow, which can be used on other patterns. Ginger Tatic ONLINE EDUCATION MANAGER PATTERN: GEMMA TANK MADE BY RAE FIGURE TYPE: ANY FABRIC: PIN PRICK, SEWING CIRCLE COLLECTION, MICHAEL MILLER FABRICS REVIEW: Designed for a woven fabric, this pattern features two neckline styles and a curved hem. The style is good for any figure, with extra wearing ease at the tummy and hips. Choose a lightweight fabric, such as voile or sateen,…

The most complicated part of any hemming task is all the extra design elements, such as linings, kick pleats and cuffs. These elements often require a bit more knowledge and a few additional sewing techniques. Before undertaking more complicated hems, it’s vital to master the simple or plain hem that has no such interruptions. In a plain hem, the lower edge is simply turned to the wrong side and stitched in place around the circumference of the garment. While simple, there are still some important considerations to make when stitching this hem type. Aside from figuring out where to stitch the hemline, it’s necessary to finish the cut or hem allowance raw edge to produce a clean appearance on the garment wrong side and contain any possible fraying, as well…

The American 1970s décor was flooded with earth tones and home accessories that looked (and in many cases were) homemade. Macramé, string art, embroidered wall hangings, and afghan blankets were sprinkled throughout the entire home. Walls weren’t only decorated with items, but also wallpapered in bold floral or geometric prints. Carpet was wall-to-wall and the longer the shag, the better. This décor style is a champion for anyone who loves the rust, orange, brick, sand, avocado green and gold color scheme of yesteryear.…

RAE CUMBIE Curve Appeal: Swimsuit Shape-Up — page 22 My summer pattern pick is the Tabula Rasa Knit Tee and Tunic. It fits like a dream and is so easy and quick to stitch up a new one in washable knit jersey for a great summer look with linen pants. fitforartpatterns.com AMY FRIEND Easy Squeezy — page 48 ABBY GLASSENBERG The Common Thread: Sew Biz — page 76 My summer pattern pick is a Drop-cloth embroidery sampler. It’s a great project to bring along on road trips or to work on in the evenings on the porch with a glass of wine. whileshenaps.com MEG HEALY Pattern Play: Beach Bound — page 18 This summer is going to be all about the romper and jumpsuit. I'm using BurdaStyle pattern #115 from…

1. Take a sewing vacation to Hong Kong with the AMERICAN SEWING GUILD. Hosted by former Sew News editor Linda Griepentrog and writer Pauline Richards, Sew Much Fun Hong Kong will share some of the region's fabric and sewing-related shopping and learning opportunities. Registration closes Aug. 24 for the November trip. asg.org 2. There’s nothing more nostalgic than a tomato pincushion. Keep it classic with the PINCUSHION NEEDLE MINDER. Not only is this retro design a great tool to hold your pins, but the magnetic back allows you to wear it on a garment or accessory. pinpeddlers.com 3. The fabric collection SOW & SEW BY ELOISE RENOUF is full of fun foliage and calming colors. Each pattern features an illustration of a garden herb or vegetable, paired with geometric shapes…

SUPPLIES • Slip dress sewing pattern (such as BurdaStyle #104 07/2016) • 3 yards of 59"-wide open knit, crochet, lace or chiffon fabric • 1 yard of matching 1"-wide elastic • 1" wide G-hook • Matching all-purpose thread • 80/12 ballpoint sewing machine needle • Clear gridded ruler • French curve • Tape • Pattern paper PREPARE If using a digital pattern, print, tile and tape together the pattern pieces. You’ll need the front, back and front yoke. Choose the pattern size based on the bust measurement. Mark the appropriate size line on all pieces for easy reference. ALTER To reduce the number of seams, eliminate the front yoke and flounce, if applicable. Begin by cutting out the front yoke directly on the size line. On the front, extend the…

QUICK BANDED PLACKETS When making a cuffed shirt or blouse, adapt the instructions to create a simple banded placket. Cut a 1"-wide on-grain strip of matching or coordinating fabric the length of the entire slit opening for the band. Fold the band in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. With right sides together and raw edges matching, position the band on the slit opening. Serge-seam the raw edges together, pushing the fabric toward the needle at the corner point so the stitches evenly catch the edge (1). Press the band away from the sleeve and reinforce the point by straight stitching diagonally across the folded end (2). If wearing the sleeve rolled up, consider serging the band in place with a satin-length decorative stitch. For lightweight fabrics, use a rolled-edge stitch,…

ABOUT CORK From Portugal, cork is harvested from the cork oak tree using a process that allows the tree to continue to flourish. Cork can actually be harvested from the same tree for hundreds of years. The cork is first stripped from the tree using a machete, boiled, shaved into sheets and bonded to a cotton/polyester-blend fabric. This cotton/poly blend is what makes cork so easy to sew. At a thickness of 0.8mm, the final product is both flexible and easy to stitch through with a basic home sewing machine. Cork fabric is usually treated with a form of Scotch Guard and UV protectant to help the quality and colors last for a very long time. It truly is an ecofriendly and vegan alternative to leather. Available in over 80…

BurdaStyle’s Alison Swimsuit offers vintage flavor in sizes small, medium and large. With a halter neckline and a cute tie at the mid-back, this suit offers flattering and stylish coverage. Tuesday Stitches Nautilus Swimsuit features a flattering twist in the bodice with standard or halter-style straps. The pattern includes 4 cup sizes (up to DD+) and multiple versions: a bikini and one-piece, with a cute peek-a-boo. “Sewing for yourself is a powerful act of self love. By making clothes to fit your body instead of trying to fit your body into readymade clothes, you learn to let go of thinking of your body as a series of flaws. You may not fit the pattern straight out of the envelope but you're just a series of pattern adjustments away and there's…

SUPPLIES • 2 yards of rayon fabric (see “Sources”) • Scraps of coordinating fabric (see “Sources”) & featherweight fusible interfacing • Needles: 2mm twin, hand sewing & universal • Matching all-purpose thread • Removable fabric marker PREPARE Download the Pretty in Pintucks pattern from sewnews.com/web_extras until July 31, 2018. Purchase the pattern at shopsewitall.com after the expiration date. Print, assemble and cut out the pattern pieces according to your measurements. From the main fabric, cut one front and back on the fold, two collar bands and collars on the fold, two plackets and two armscye facings. Transfer all the pattern markings onto the fabric wrong side. Use a removable fabric marker to transfer the pintuck markings onto the fabric right side. From the coordinating fabric, cut one inset pair. From…

Choose from one of these tank patterns or another of your liking and join us for tank month in July, when we’ll be sharing more reviews, sewing tips and fabric picks on the blog. WAYS TO PLAY: • Sew a tank top in July and share a pic of your finished creation to Facebook or Instagram, tagging your post with #tankmonth. Follow the hashtag to see other people’s makes. • Visit the blog and comment on our tank posts for a chance to win a copy of Sew it All Volume 12, on newsstands August 28, 2018.sewnews.com/blogs/sewing • Submit your own tank pattern review in July to sewnews@sewnews.com for a chance to win a pattern kit from BurdaStyle.com.…

Use hem tape when finishing hems on heavyweight fabrics, fabrics that fray excessively or fabrics that are too bulky to handle a folded edge. Hem tape produces the most professional-looking hems, especially for garments that aren’t lined. Apply hem tape to the raw hem edge to keep fabric from fraying, conceal an otherwise unattractive edge and most importantly, prevent a bulky hem edge from showing through to the garment right side. Hem tape is available in three types. One is a lace tape that has some stretch to it so it conforms well to both curved and straight edges while producing a decorative finish to the hem edge. Another is a ½"-wide polyester tape that is also used to finish seams or to stay seams. As an added bonus, the…

Re-create this easy-breezy summertime look by pairing lightweight fabrics with versatile sewing patterns. Simple halter tops change dramatically when made from large-scale patterned fabrics. Button-down skirts are easily styled for different looks by the number of buttons you choose to button or unbutton. Modifying patterns to wear them different ways is essential to compiling a great summer wardrobe. HALTER TOP PATTERNS Look for a pattern that fits closer to the body without much drape. FABRIC COLOR PALETTE FINAL TOUCHES Take this look from day to night by switching up accessories. Create a daytime look with a straw bag, oversized brim hat and flats or wedge espadrilles. Pull your hair into a top knot, add a wide belt, clutch and block heels for a nighttime look. SKIRT PATTERNS Look for an…

SUPPLIES • Silk camisole • Ostrich plumes (See “Source.”) • Precision knife • Interfacing • 7/8"-wide ribbon Purchase a readymade silk camisole and coordinating ostrich plumes. The size of the camisole determines the number of ostrich plumes needed and ribbon length. Using a precision knife, slice down the rachis (the center shaft) of the ostrich plume, leaving enough room to keep the feather together but cutting off the bulky stiffness of the rachis. Trim the uneven edges from the feather. Cut a ¾"-wide strip of interfacing long enough to wrap around the camisole hem with a 1" overlap. Pin the trimmed ostrich feathers to the center of the interfacing strip along the entire length, overlapping the feather ends ½". Using a wide zigzag stitch, stitch down the feather-strip length, making…

1. GOOD VIBRATIONS Place a large 13" square mouse pad under your serger to prevent it from “walking” as you sew. Jill C., letter 2. FOREVER LABELED After purchasing a new spool of thread, super glue around the label edges to keep it from falling off. Mindy S., email 3. THE GREAT DRAPE Apply a 4"-long boning strip to the back of a tape measure to use when you need a straight edge. Drape the rest of the tape measure around your neck for easy accessibility. Nancy Y., letter 4. GATHER ’ROUND Use hand-quilting thread in the bobbin when sewing gathering stitches. Loosen the upper thread tension slightly and use the largest stitch possible. Cheryl B., letter 5. WATCH & SEW Purchase a tablet that has Internet capabilities and a…

“Having the ability to sew anything I could possibly imagine wearing allows me to live an unlimited fashion life.” SN: Describe your perfect day. EB: An unrealistically perfect day would be working out with an in-home personal trainer. If I didn’t have to actually leave the house, I’d work out a lot more! Then eating a perfectly healthy after-workout meal — already prepared, of course. And sewing for the rest of the day. SN: What’s the last hobby you picked up? EB: Amateur gardening. I became the Mother of Plants. And luckily, quite a few survived! This year, I’m venturing into starting an herb and vegetable garden. I’m feeling really ambitious these days. SN: What’s your spirit animal? EB: A mother grizzly. I’m all about my solitude. This…

For a different look, tie the cover up closed with a drawstring. Make the following changes to the cover-up instructions. Omit the elastic from the supplies. Instead, use 1 yard of ½" drawstring or cording. When adding seam allowance to the front and back neckline, add 1" instead of ½". Follow the construction instructions until the front and back necklines are finished. Fold the front and back neckline allowances 1" toward the wrong side. Topstitch close to the fold to create a casing. Thread the drawstring through the front and back casings to the desired fit, trim the string if desired and tie the ends in a bow over one shoulder. To create a bow on each shoulder, cut the drawstring in half. Knot the ends to prevent unraveling.…

SUPPLIES • A-line skirt pattern (such as BurdaStyle 12/2013 #126) • 11/2 yards of rayon or cotton lawn • Featherweight fusible interfacing (amount according to waistband measurements) • Ten 5/8"-diameter buttons • Matching all-purpose thread • Pattern paper & tracing wheel • Hand-sewing needle • Buttonhole foot • 1/4 yard coordinating rayon or cotton lawn (optional) ALTER Remove the seam allowances from the center-back opening, if applicable. Mark the center back to cut on the fold. Add 21/2" to the center front. Designate as the right-front pattern. Draw a line 5/8" from the original center front. Designate as the cutting line for the left-front skirt pattern (1). For the button placket, draw a rectangle measuring 21/2" × the skirt center-front length, including seam and hem allowances. For the waistband, measure…

SUPPLIES Supplies listed are enough to make one 18"×30" table runner using fifteen 6"-square blocks. • Assorted scraps of light & dark yellow print cotton fabric • 11/4 yards of coordinating solid or low-volume cotton fabric (background) • 2/3 yard of backing fabric • 1/8 yard of binding fabric • 20"×32" rectangle of batting • 50-wt. quilting thread • Size 90/14 universal needle • Tweezers • Foundation paper (optional; see “Source”) CUT Download the templates from sewnews.com/web_extras until July 31, 2018. Print 15 copies of the template page on plain computer or foundation paper. Cut out each A, B, C, D and E templates and one F1 template. From the dark yellow scraps, cut seventy-five 1"×21/2" rectangles for sections A1, B1, C1, D1 and E1. From the light yellow scraps,…

SUPPLIES • 1/2 yard each of red & dark green heavyweight fabric (such as canvas, denim or faux leather), white faux leather or vinyl & cotton print (lining) • 20" square of black faux leather • 1 yard each of double-sided lightweight fusible foam interfacing & double-sided fusible web (See “Sources.”) • Thread: all-purpose black, dark green, red & white • Fabric glue stick • Two 4" × 81/8" wood purse handles PREPARE Download and print the One in a Melon pattern from sewnews.com/web_extras until July 31, 2018. Find the pattern at shopsewitall.com after the expiration date. From the red fabric, cut two front panels on the fold and two handle tabs. From the white and green fabric, cut two rinds each on the fold. From the black fabric, cut…

SUPPLIES • 21/2 yards of lightweight dress fabric (such as rayon challis, seersucker, chambray, double gauze or voile) • Matching all-purpose thread • Pinking shears (optional) PREPARE Download the Day Date Dress pattern at sewnews.com/web_extrasuntil July 31, 2018. Find the pattern at shopsewitall.com after the expiration date. From the fabric, cut one front and back on the fold, two front yokes on the fold, two back yokes on the fold, two cuffs on the fold and two front ties on the bias. CONSTRUCT Use 1/2" seam allowances unless otherwise noted and serge-finish or pink seam allowances. Stitch each front and back yoke pair at the shoulders; press open. Designate one yoke pair as the facing. Fold each front-tie long edge 1/2" toward the wrong side; press. Fold one short edge…

For knit fabrics, a coverstitch hem is the optimal choice. This stitch produces an edge that’s totally concealed by a double row of stitching on the garment right side and an overcast stitch on the underside. The prime advantage of this stitch is it stretches with the fabric. In addition, it’s a two-in-one technique that secures and finishes the hem edge in one step. The drawback is it requires a separate coverstitch sewing machine or a serger with a coverstitch stitch option. This technique can’t be accomplished with a standard sewing machine. As an alternative, use a twin needle to produce the same effect, but be aware that this method doesn’t stretch with the fabric as much.…

Grab the pattern at BurdaStyle.com and join BurdaStyle Online Editor Meg Healy for the following special topics on the Sew News blog: June 12: Fabric Selection June 19: Construction Details June 26: Styling Options FIND THE WRAP BLOUSE PATTERN AT BURDASTYLE.COM OR GET IT PRINTED DIRECTLY ONTO FABRIC AT SPROUTPATTERNS.COM. WITH THE BAND Create interest and definition with bands and tie in a contrast solid or coordinating print. Or keep the look modern and sleek with self fabric bands.…

FAT QUARTER HOME by Amanda Russell & Juliet Bawden Brighten your home with things you’ll love to make. This crafty collection is packed with great ideas for turning precut pieces or fabric remnants into something new, from a humble potholder to a snazzy shoe-cleaning kit. Colorful and imaginative projects with easy-to-follow instructions and illustrative photography show you how to mix and match designs to make 25 useful and attractive items. gmcbooks.com COMPLETE BOOK OF SEWING TECHNIQUES by Wendy Gardiner Sewing is a creative and rewarding skill that allows you to express yourself through fabric. Packed full of information on basic sewing techniques for clothing and more, this book provides an ideal introduction for beginning sewists as well as a useful reference for those who already sew. Learning how to sew…

1. GONE WITH THE WIND You’ll never look at drapery fabric the same way again. 2. BRIGHT STAR Arrogant poet meets sexy sewist. 3. REAL WOMEN HAVE CURVES The bigger the bump, the deeper the dart. 4. HOW TO MAKE AN AMERICAN QUILT Mother (and grandmother and aunts) always know best. 5. THE INCREDIBLES No capes! 6. SEWING HOPE One machine can change the lives of so many people. 7. PRETTY IN PINK Witness the worst design job since Project Runway’s Rainbow Torture. 8. THE DRESSMAKER Dashing Australian hunk meets deadly dressmaker. 9. THE TIME IN BETWEEN Seamstress-turned-spy takes out the Nazis. 10. DIOR AND I Sewing skills to die for. 11. PHANTOM THREAD Moody fashion designer + timid but beautiful model. 12. CINDERELLA We all need a fairy godmother.…