Innholdsfortegnelse for April - May 2018 i Sew News

DEAR READERS, Who doesn’t love a T-shirt? I admit I haven’t made many T-shirts in the past, because they always seem so affordable to buy. I’ll gladly purchase the same T-shirt in several colors just to have basics to wear with blazers, cardigans or alone. If they happen to get holes after a few washings or the stitching comes out along the hem, I excuse it because the shirt was so cheap and I’ll just buy another one. But this behavior stops now! After finding so many T-shirt patterns to prep for the T-shirt review on page 64, we here at Sew News have committed to home-sewn T-shirts for life. Not only are there tons of patterns in every style imaginable, but there are also quality knit fabrics in every…

Play & Win! What is it? Pictured at left is part of a photo from this issue.When you find it, enter online at sewnews.com or send a postcard with the page you found it on to Sew News, Hide & Seek, 741 Corporate Circle, Ste. A, Golden, CO 80401. Responses are due April 30, 2018. From the correct responses, we’ll randomly draw five winners, one of which could be you. The Apr/May ’18 winners will receive a 34" × 22" XL high-quality 5-layer cutting mat, 60mm rotary cutter and 24" × 6" fabric ruler. Congratulations to the Feb/Mar ’18 Hide & Seek winners! We randomly selected five winners to receive a copy of The Sew Simple Guide to Easy Sewing and Embellishing, available at shopsewitall.com. Darlene M., Lindsborg, KS Margaret…

I’ve been seeing this off-the-shoulder style on the runways, in stores and on fashion blogs everywhere. I wanted to recreate it but also give a nod to menswear. This project was developed using a men’s sewing pattern so it has that classic white button-up shirt look for an effortlessly chic style. In the morning, you can put this on instead of “borrowing” your man’s shirt and enjoy the same level of comfort and style. Try wearing it belted with fashion jewelry to elevate the look.…

• Always begin stitching on fabric. • Use a longer (3mm to 4mm) stitch length. • Make sure the needle threads are fine enough to pass through the needle eyes. The looper thread may be bulkier, so ensure it passes easily through the looper eye. Experiment with different weights and varieties of thread, but keep in mind that the bulkier the thread, the longer the stitch length needed. • Determine proper needle size according to the thread used. • Use differential feed as per other stitch configurations.…

STRIPE BASICS Stripes are typically matched at the side seams, waistline and back seamlines, so choose a pattern with limited style lines to minimize the need to match the stripes, while maximizing the design impact. Always consider the stripe direction on a garment. Vertical stripes have a slimming effect on the body and horizontal stripes can have the opposite effect. When using stripes to create interesting style lines, keep in mind the stripe direction and where the stripes align, the stripe flow from front to back and where they meet at the side seams. Plan the stripe layout before cutting any pattern pieces to ensure the stripes are coordinated as desired. GRAINLINES Typically, pattern pieces are placed along the lengthwise fabric grain. Use this method for most striped fabric, but…

SUPPLIES • Simple dress or top pattern with side seams (such as a sheath dress or tunic-length top)• Fabric & notions according to pattern envelope, plus ½ yard additional garment fabric• Two 6"-long metal zippers• Removable fabric marker PREPARE Download the Zipper Pocket pattern from sewnews.com/web_extras. Print and then cut out. Cut out two pocket pairs from the garment fabric. Mark the welt opening and inner cutting lines on the fabric wrong sides using a removable fabric marker. Cut out the front pattern of the desired garment. Mark the desired pocket placement upper edge. Place the pattern piece on a dress form or your body and mark the desired pocket opening, taking seam allowances into account. Mark 1" above the previous mark; this is the pocket pouch upper-edge placement. On…

SUPPLIES • Sheath dress pattern with short sleeves (such as the Departure Shift)• Dress fabric, lining, interfacing & notions (amount according to pattern envelope)• All-purpose thread• Pattern or tracing paper• Straight ruler PREPARE Cut out the pattern pieces. Before beginning the alterations, pin-fit or make a muslin fitting sample of the selected pattern. Make any necessary fit adjustments to the pattern, and then trace a copy on paper, transferring all markings. ALTER Trace the sleeve pattern onto new paper. Draw a line 11/2" from and parallel to the sleeve lower edge. Draw a vertical line connecting the shoulder pattern marking on the sleeve cap with the new lower-edge line. To create the pleat lines, mark the sleeve cap edge just below the back-armscye pattern marking. Draw a straight line connecting…

SUPPLIES • Basic T-shirt pattern (such as Pamela’s Patterns, 104 The Perfect T-Shirt pattern; see “Sources”)• Knit fabric (amount according to pattern envelope plus 1/2 yard for neckband)• Scrap of fusible knit interfacing• All-purpose thread• Removable fabric marker• Serger (optional) CUT Download the Gathered to a Tee neckband patterns and neckline templates from sewnews.com/web_extras. Choose a scoop or V-neck, and then cut out the corresponding pattern pieces. Lay out the fabric and pattern pieces according to the pattern instructions. Position the front-neckline template over the shirt-front pattern. If the new neckline is higher than the pattern, position the template over the pattern, aligning the center fronts and shoulder edges (1). Cut out the front. If the new neckline is lower than the pattern, cut out the front along the original…

SN: What is the voice and perspective of your patterns? Do they fill a hole in the home-sewing industry? NDF: I work closely with the established DIY Influencer Mimi G. of Mimi G. Style. She has allowed me to design men’s patterns under her label with Simplicity Patterns. After learning to sew from her, I noticed that there weren’t many options for guys like me when it came to commercial patterns. Many men’s patterns don’t reflect what’s happening in men’s fashion today. The patterns we design and develop are from the perspective of the new generation of creatives that’s all about DIY. In just the short time that I’ve been sewing, we’ve seen more and more men coming out to say they sew too, or at least have an interest…

“The best thing about sewing for yourself is that small choices can make a huge difference in the way the garment is perceived. Sewn up in linen or chambray, the Emerson pants and shorts are a perfect everyday clothing item. I like to pair them with a T-shirt or tank top, sandals and a jean jacket for going to the grocery store, picking my kids up from school or hanging out at the playground. For a more formal oufit, sew the Emersons up in a silky fabric with lots of drape for added drama. Pair it with a slinky cami or black turtleneck with a pair of heels for a night out or dinner date.”…

COLORING WITH THREAD by Tula Pink Stitch the whimsical world of Tula Pink! Seventeen of Tula’s animal and floral designs from her bestselling fabric collections have been rendered and primed for hand embroidery. Step-by-step instructions for over 20 embroidery stitches, color guides and thread color suggestions from Tula herself ensure a gorgeous finished design. A CD-rom containing each motif is included for easy sizing and printing for any project. shopsewitall.com SEWING MACHINE MAGIC by Steffani Lincecum Sewing expert Steffani Lincecum shares 30+ years of experience on how to handle a sewing machine with ease and confidence. Learn how to find and use the right presser feet for your machine, the logistics of managing thread, how to achieve proper stitch formation for every project and how to troubleshoot a variety of…

DELPHINE COLBEAU Designer Details — page 45 I have two favorite T-shirt patterns, and they’re both free. SBCC Tonic Tee pattern fit me right out of the printer, and I made several black and white ones for everyday wear. More recently, I tried the Basic Instinct T-shirt pattern released by Sasha, the blogger behind Secondo Piano, and I’m in love with its relaxed and modern fit. sewingtidbits.wordpress.com just-patterns.com @sewingtidbits @just_patterns RAE CUMBIE Curve Appeal: Knit Fit — page 20 fitforartpatterns.com ABBY GLASSENBERG The Common Thread: Sewing for Self-Care — page 82 whileshenaps.com MEG HEALY Pattern Play: Menswear Flair — page 16 burdastyle.com/profiles/megh/my_studio ANA JANKOVIC Sleeve Origami — page 50 stepalica.blogspot.com NICKI LAFOILLE Trapezoid Tote — page 57 meetthegofamily.blogspot.com IRENE MISCHKINIS Gathered to a T — page 61 LINDA REYNOLDS Dividing…

Sewing my own clothes never crossed my mind growing up. I eventually fell into it out of necessity during my pregnancy because I refused to spend a ton of money on frumpy maternity clothes. I never intended to stick with it, but I realized that sewing allowed me to take control of my personal style and create a wardrobe that truly fits my body, budget and lifestyle. When I started out, I drew so much style inspiration from other sewing bloggers, but I hadn’t quite found my own lane. I was buying patterns and fabric that I would spend time sewing only to wear once. And even then, I felt uncomfortable. I was not at my best or my most confident. I realized I needed to really take inventory, literally…

Playing with understated stripes and neutral colors makes the featured sample strikingly simple and elegant. However, the same technique can achieve a bolder statement as well. Look for geometric, linear patterns outside the realm of traditional stripes. Try the pattern with a zigzag stripe, repeating tribal pattern or abstract linear design. As long as there’s enough directionality that changing the grainline will make the pattern pop, the fabric will work for this technique.…

RECTANGULAR PILLOW Create a basic rectangular pillow with an envelope opening and adorn it with one fabric flower. SUPPLIES • 1 yard of linen• Scraps of three coordinating prints (A, B & C)• Lightweight double-sided paperbacked fusible web (See “Source.”)• Matching cotton thread• Rectangular pillow form• Waxed paper• Removable fabric marker CUT Download and print the petal patterns and grid and topstitching templates from sewnews.com/web_extras until May 31, 2018. Find the patterns and templates at shopsewitall.com after the expiration date. Measure the pillow-form height; add 3", and then record as the pillowcase height. From the linen, cut one rectangle according to the pillowcase height and 10" wider than the pillow form. Cut this piece in half widthwise; set aside as the pillow backs. Cut another rectangle from the linen according…

“Me Made May kind of evolved from a personal challenge I set for myself in 2010 while living in Barcelona, Spain. I wanted to see if I could really rely on the clothes that I’d been making myself, so I decided to wear only me-made things (excluding bras, socks, tights and shoes) for the duration of March that year. It was a really illuminating experience, and I wanted to try it again in a slightly warmer month, so I announced my plan via my blog and asked if anyone wanted to join me (outlining the specifics of their own challenge), and I was surprised that about 80 people decided do so! And the rest, as they say… Last year we had at least 800 people ‘officially’ taking part. In more…

Here are Norris’s words of wisdom regarding sewing for men: Stop sewing pajama clothes because the new modern guy cares more about garments he can wear out. Ask guys to show pictures of the specific items they want, rather than attempt to explain them. When you make something that he loves, remember to keep the pattern handy and note all modifications and alterations. He’ll ask for another one in a different color or print. Most men’s clothes will need a heavier interfacing depending on the garment so keep some in your stash. If he has clothes that he loves already, use those items to make more of the things he will wear. This will also give you a chance to make some of his personal store-bought pieces better by adding…

1. ON YOUR MARK Once finished sewing, take out the machine needle, put it back in its case and mark it to indicate the number of times the needle has been used. Then you won’t forget what needle is in the machine or how many times a needle has been used. Jessica Z., Facebook 2. ROLL ‘EM UP Store fabric by rolling it up on rolling pins. This storage solution is both useful and decorative. Ruth G., email 3. BUTTON BUNDLE Keep similar buttons together by threading them onto large safety pins. Use this tip to organize buttons by color or by size or both! Gail P., email 4. PUPPY PICKUP A rubber dog brush is great for picking up pesky threads from carpet. Irene D., Facebook Featured readers received…

DANA WILLARD is an author, designer, photographer and the bright personality behind the MADE Everyday blog and YouTube channel. Her latest fabric collection, Day Trip for Art Gallery Fabrics, takes you on a colorful adventure through fields of cacti, bluebonnets and everything she and her family love about their home in Austin, TX, including a taco or two. www.MadeEveryday.com SN: What’s your spirit animal? DW: I’m not a real animal or pet person, so I’m going to go outside the box and say the sun. When I wake up and can see that it’s a sunny day, I feel so much energy to be productive and have a smile on my face. Sunshine just makes me happy and makes me want to share things with others. That sounds cheesy, but…

SUPPLIES • Men’s shirt pattern (such as BurdaStyle #127 01/2014)• 21/2 yards of 59"-wide white cotton shirting fabric• Six or more 5/8"-diameter buttons• All-purpose thread• 2 yards of 11/4"-wide elastic• Universal 80/12 sewing machine needle• Rulers: clear gridded & curved• Pattern or tracing paper• Removable fabric marker PREPARE If using a BurdaStyle pattern, print, tile and tape the pattern pieces together. For this style use pieces 1, 2 and 4 (the front, back and sleeve). Set all other pattern pieces aside. Use your bust measurement to determine your size. Because this is a men’s sewing pattern with men’s sizing, use the chart below as a guide. ALTER To create the off-the-shoulder style, measure 3" from the upper edge along the center front; mark. Draw a horizontal line from the mark…

Available on high-end machines that convert between overlock and coverstitch functions or on dedicated coverstitch machines, this stitch is created with two needles, one looper and no cutting action (the upper blade is disengaged), usually requiring three threads and a looper. It results in a single row or two or three parallel rows of straight stitching on the right side and an overlock configuration on the wrong side. As with other serge stitches, coverstitch is suitable anywhere on the fabric, not just the edge, but its standard application is for knit hems and necklines. The coverstitch offers a quality alternative to a twin needle on a standard sewing machine, avoiding many of the common twin-needle tunneling and tension issues. APPLICATIONS In addition to its speed, the cover-stitch has many applications…

KNIT FABRIC To create the trim, use the natural curl that occurs on some knit fabric edges. Usually double knits don’t curl, so choose single knits, such as jersey. As a bonus, jersey knit is lightweight and doesn’t add bulk to the strips. Cut the strips on the lengthwise grain. Although the crosswise grain has the most stretch and therefore yields the most curl for the trim, most jersey knit cut on the crossgrain curls to the right side, which exposes the wrong side and isn’t desired (1). The strips curl less when cut on the lengthwise grain, but they will curl to the wrong side and expose the right side (2). Some jersey knits are printed on the wrong side, and in that case they must be cut on…

CONTRAST CUFF Line T-shirt sleeves in a contrast fabric for a clean finish, sans hem, and then wear the cuff wide or narrow depending on your mood and outfit. Skill Level: Beginner SUPPLIES • Pattern for a fitted T-shirt (such as the SBCC Tonic Tee free pattern)• Main knit fabric, all-purpose thread & other notions (according to pattern)• 1/2 yard of contrasting knit fabric or scraps PREPARE If needed, extend the underarm seam so it measures at least 5" to 6" and reaches just above the elbow. Add a 3/8" seam allowance at the hem of the sleeve pattern piece. Cut all the pattern pieces from the main knit fabric, according to the pattern instructions. Cut a set of sleeves from the contrasting knit fabric. CONSTRUCT With right sides together,…

SUPPLIES • 1/2 yard each of faux leather & cotton lining• Thread: matching all-purpose & topstitching• Leather needle• Heavyweight & lightweight interfacing• 1 yard 12/32"-diameter cording• Zipper foot• Binder clips• Tapestry needle• Matching permanent marker• Leather or wallpaper roller (optional)• Rotary cutter PREPARE Download the Trapezoid Tote pattern from sewnews.com/web_extras until May 31, 2018. Find the pattern at shopsewitall.com after the expiration date. From the leather, cut one body on the fold, two side panels and two 2"×19" rectangles for the straps. During cutting, use pattern weights to secure the pattern to the faux leather. From the lining, cut one body on the fold, two side panels and one 7"×16" rectangle for the pocket. From the heavyweight interfacing, cut one 23/4"×93/4" rectangle. From the lightweight interfacing, cut two 3"×7" rectangles.…

Topstitching is a rather straightforward technique that requires simply stitching a straight or curved line. Topstitching is either achieved with a straight stitch, zigzag stitch, double-row stitch using a twin needle or any number of decorative stitches. Since it’s always visible from the right side, it’s important that topstitching is sewn with precision to present a professional-looking finish. It takes a steady hand, a good eye and the right tools and techniques, not to mention practice. While most commonly stitched on a sewing machine, topstitching can also be achieved by hand, which lends a more refined couture finish. Whether done on the machine or by hand, give careful consideration to the choice of stitch, thread, presser foot, needle, stitch length and the distance from the edge or seamline. THREAD The…

SUPPLIES • Basic mule flats• FSL Embroidery (See “Design.”)• Invisible thread• Hand-sewing needle• Beads & assorted gemstones• Pin backs Create your own FSL (freestanding lace) with an embroidery machine, or purchase two pre-made FSL motifs. The embroidery you choose will determine what type and how many beads are used. Find natural open spaces in the embroidered design where you can attach beads using invisible thread and a beading needle. Make sure to tie off the thread on the underside on the embroidered design. Attach two pin backs to the FSL design underside using invisible thread, one near the top of the design and one near the bottom of the design. Repeat for the remaining embroidered design. Center the beaded designs on top of the shoe and pin in place. Unpin…

Grab the pattern at shopsewitall.com and join designer Kelli Ward for the following special topics on the Sew News blog: April 10: Pattern Prep, Pleats & Pockets April 17: Assembly Tips April 24: Waistband Construction THE PATTERN The True Bias Emerson Crop Pant/ Short is a chic wide-leg, pull-on pant with an elasticized back and flattering front waistband that sits just below the natural waist. With front pleats and roomy side pockets, the pant is designed to hit mid-calf, while the shorts feature a 4" inseam. The pattern includes sizes 0 to 18 and is rated for advanced beginners. Recommended fabrics include light-to mediumweight fabrics, such as linen, cotton, rayon challis, chambray and lightweight denim. MEET THE DESIGNER: KELLI WARD, TRUE BIAS Kelli Ward is the writer, creator, and designer…

BLOUSE PATTERNS Look for a pattern that features long sleeves and roomy shoulders. SKIRT PATTERNS Look for a vertically ruched center seam or panel or a simple center seam where gathers can be added. FABRIC COLOR PALETTE FINAL TOUCHES Finish the look with large statement earrings, a satchel-style bag and neutral heels. If statement earrings aren’t your thing, try pairing gold stud earrings with multiple gold bangles on one wrist. Check out the Sew News Facebook page on May 15, 2018 for the pattern giveaway from Indygo Junction. TIP Add shoulder pads for a more dramatic look!…