Bread has nourished mankind for more than 30,000 years. It is the simplest thing you can eat, and yet the complexity of the biochemical reactions zinging through a ball of rising dough at any given moment is astonishing. Andrew Sean Greer bakes with his mother, a professor of food chemistry, and with Chad Robertson, a famous baker, to discover how bread—chewy, crusty, warm, comforting, everyday, miraculous bread—works.
1 THE STARTER
Chad's starter is better than mine. That much I can tell at a glance—a bubbling, luscious, fawn-colored batter. A starter is a baker's pride, grown from airborne yeast, flour, and water, carefully fed and tended over time, sometimes years. "We're going for yogurty," Chad Robertson, famous baker, tells me, shrugging. I smile appreciatively, not mentioning that mine, yesterday, seemed a…