ON VEGETABLES , by über-hot American chef Jeremy Fox, is a book for reading (Fox’s story of burning out while his star was ascending at Ubuntu, the Michelin-starred Napa Valley restaurant, is like a movie treatment), learning (how best to store lettuce, the merits of a bird’s beak knife) and cooking—even if it isn’t an everyday cookbook. Dishes like peas, white chocolate and macadamia are pure restaurant fodder, but chickpeas in broth, lots of olive oil and black pepper, pan con tomate ? Yes, please. Yet what elevates On Vegetables is that it is, unexpectedly, a call to action.
Fox has a message, but it’s not to give up meat. Instead, his mantra is: Eat your veg, all of it, from seed…
