FOOD THE CAMPANIAN TOURIST board must be at it again. After years of the region losing ground among well-heeled vacationers to Sicily and Puglia, suddenly a new iteration of Patricia Highsmith’s Tom Ripley, the scammer toast of Amalfi, barrels onto Netflix, and now here comes Massara, a little slice of Campania in Manhattan, which makes its boundaries clear; it’s the rare ristorante that doesn’t stock a single bottle of Barolo. That’s northern stuff. “Food in 2024 has to be regional,” Stefano Secchi, Massara’s ponytailed chef, declaimed to the New York Times as the restaurant opened in June. Campania, in the southwest of the boot—it includes Naples, Amalfi, Capri, and Ischia—favors fish, fire, and Fiano.
In a tall, narrow, two-story space in the Flatiron District, Secchi and partner David Switzer, who…
