FOOD RESTAURANT REVIEW TOP PICK
7 Greene Ave., at Fulton St., Fort Greenetheodoranyc.com
ACCORDING TO A NEIGHBOR, wafts of fenugreek hang over a stretch of Fort Greene’s Dekalb Avenue, courtesy of the local favorite Miss Ada. “You can smell it a mile away,” he said. Fenugreek’s seeds and seed paste, licorice-y and lightly bitter, crop up in Armenian, Moroccan, Iraqi, Ethiopian, and Turkish cuisine and sometimes as part of a za’atar blend. That neighbor, nose piqued, recognized it in an instant at Theodora, Miss Ada’s new sister restaurant on Greene Avenue, lost somewhere in a tuna crudo on brick-colored lavash, by flavor if not by name. It took some sleuthing, and a friendly server, to finally identify it. Was it the faint sourdough tang of the lavash itself, the wasabi…
