DESPITE THE NAME, “milk punch” is a style of drink that’s usually clear and always good for warmer temperatures: Booze, sugar, and citrus are combined with dairy until it curdles. The solids are strained out, and the delicate, satiny liquid that’s left behind is the cocktail. At Superbueno, a version is infused with salted plum and tamarind; Jelas, in Union Square, serves a rotating selection, including a spicy-margarita riff with Sichuan peppercorn. At Bungalow (24 First Ave., nr. 2nd St.; bungalowny.com), the restaurant from chef Vikas Khanna and Jimmy Rizvi that’s fashioned after India’s colonial-era country clubs, the goal was to create a milk punch that evoked a familiar cup of masala chai; it took longer than expected to get it right.
“It’s our most intense cocktail,” Rizvi says, “both…
