Innholdsfortegnelse for October 9-22, 2023 i New York Magazine

1 New York’s latest cover story—an excerpt from Michael Wolff’s The Fall: The End of Fox News and the Murdoch Dynasty—revealed why the network decided to split with Tucker Carlson (“Heartburn,” September 25–October 8). Volts newsletter writer David Roberts said, “This story is remarkable for a number of reasons, but the main theme that jumps out is what an absolute pit of vipers the right is—horrible people scheming against other horrible people. Just a festival of terrible humans.” Former Obama spokesperson and Pod Save America co-host Tommy Vietor wrote, “Always take anything Michael Wolff writes with a grain of salt (or a dash of libel), but this story suggests Murdoch fired @TuckerCarlson because Tucker was thinking about running for president.” Signaling her approval of Rupert Murdoch’s contemptuous statements about Donald…

WHEN THE Caesar-salad cart rolls up at the Dal Rae steakhouse, Molly Baz whips out her phone and starts recording. “I’m sometimes an annoying person to go to dinner with?” she says. But it’s part of the job. She’s self-aware enough about what life as a social-media-famous chef requires. “It’s like I’m trying to sell me, not just my recipes,” Baz says. “What I look like, what I sound like, what I’m eating. It’s trippy.” I’d insisted Baz, 35, take charge of the ordering. She’s the one with a best-selling cookbook, a subscribers-only recipe club, and 720,000 Instagram followers who fangirl in the comments whenever she posts a cooking Reel. If, a century ago, Betty Crocker marketed the idea of the perfect housewife, baking the day away for her husband…

SHAMS CHARANIA arrived at a restaurant in downtown Chicago last month just as his colleagues and sources around the National Basketball Association told me he would: running a bit late, phone in hand, AirPods plugged into both ears. “It’s very hard to have lunch with Shams,” a former NBA executive had warned me. The issue is holding his attention. Charania works for The Athletic, the sports website that is now business-critical to the future of the New York Times and where his title is senior NBA insider. The job involves staying in near-constant contact with hundreds of agents, executives, players, and hangers-on throughout the NBA in order to be in position to break basketball news big and small to his 2.1 million followers on X (the former Twitter)—more than any…

I PUBLISHED MY FIRST cookbook in 1972. I was 24, dirt poor, and living in a fifth-floor walk-up loft on the very ungentrified Lower East Side. We built our kitchen table from wooden pallets scavenged on the street, and my rolling pin was a wine bottle. Although I went on to become editor-in-chief of Gourmet magazine, I have never cooked more delicious food than during those years when all I had was a couple of battered pots and a single knife. I am not an equipment freak. I truly believe that all it takes to be a great cook is the desire to spend time in the kitchen. There is nowhere I’d rather be, and I spend a few hours every day between the sink and the stove. After all…

FOODRESTAURANT REVIEW INGREDIENTS, LIKE GODS and streaming series, need evangelists in a crowded market. Buckwheat has Shuichi Kotani, who, five nights a week, can be found in Greenpoint, medieval-looking soba-kiri cleaver at the ready. There he is behind the counter at Uzuki, shaving, chopping, and simmering, all in the service of soba. The word means “buckwheat” in Japanese, and it tends to get short shrift in the ramen-leaning noodle wars. Not here. Kotani is overseeing a symphonic buckwheat-rehabilitation program. Soba—in miso, in tofu, in tea, and above all in noodles—is the star of the show. His is a convert’s zeal. Noodles in Japan tend to be divided along geographic lines; soba is associated with the east, wheat-based noodles like udon with the west. Kotani is from Himeji in the south-central…

RIRKRIT TIRAVANIJA is an artist without a studio. “I don’t have those expenses and overheads,” he tells me. So he takes what he calls his “studio visits” at Cafe Mogador, the venerably bohemian Moroccan restaurant on St. Marks Place in the East Village. “My favorite place,” he says. Mogador opened in 1983, the same year Rirkrit—everyone just calls him that; the middle r is not pronounced—moved to New York from Toronto, where he had gone to art school. He signed a lease for $290 a month on the same four-room rent-stabilized apartment on East 7th Street, between Avenues B and C, that he still has today (he also has homes in Berlin and his native Thailand). He has kept his costs low ever since, which has enabled him, rare among…

I DON’T LIKE BEING in the same place for a long time,” Michael Mann tells me as we sit down for lunch in Modena, Italy. The director has lived in Los Angeles for the past five decades with his wife, Summer, an artist. But in 2022, as he worked on his new film, Ferrari, the city where car manufacturer Enzo Ferrari lived and died became a second home. Ferrari might be the closest thing Mann has had to a dream project, which might also be why he seems so happy nowadays. I’ve interviewed the director maybe a dozen times over the past decade, and I’ve rarely seen him so animated. He has been trying to get the biographical racing drama—which follows Enzo’s (Adam Driver) marital and professional turmoil during a…

THE LOOK BOOK GOES TO LOLA FLASH Activist and photographer, Kips Bay Did you meet anyone? Henry Taylor’s brother. He had a sweatshirt that said “Henry Taylor” on it and a hat that said “Henry Taylor” on it. You’re an artist? Yes. The work that most of the museums are collecting is from my series called “Cross Colour,” which I did in the ’80s and ’90s. For the most part, that work has been under my bed, literally, for 40 years. The art world didn’t seem to like it much then. I think it was just too experimental. But now, so many museums want to see that work. The Getty just bought three. I’m an Aquarius, and they say Aquariuses have foresight. THE LOOK BOOK: WHITNEY VIPS How’s your night…

UNTABLE 529 Henry St., Carroll Gardens 347-529-4974 Chef Rachanon Kampimarn offers fiery Thai food to rival Ugly Baby’s local superiority: crab croquettes with tom yum purée; grilled tiger shrimp with chile-lime dressing; and larb maung, grilled sirloin piled with scallions, cilantro, and crisp shallots. CHRIS CROWLEY CAFE CAMELLIA 318 Graham Ave., Williamsburg cafecamelliabk.com Alabama native Roger Jacobsen transports Gulf Coast cooking to the eastern edge of Williamsburg: fried green tomatoes, barely breaded crab cakes, and a tender, crusty rib cap that arrives in a swoosh of bourbon-Worcestershire caramel. “You just don’t see hush puppies in New York,” marveled one of my companions. MATTHEW SCHNEIER MANHATTA 28 Liberty St.; manhattarestaurant.com More people should be talking about chef Justin Bogle’s forward-thinking vision of fine dining. A recent meal included a caviar-topped quail…

For more culture coverage and streaming recommendations, see vulture.com. TV 1. Watch The Fall of the House of Usher Edgar Allan Poe, reimagined. Netflix, October 12. Mike Flanagan’s shows are as much a Halloween tradition as trick-or-treating. This spooky season, the writer-director modernizes Poe’s famous short story for the post-COVID, opioid-afflicted era with ensemble regulars (Carla Gugino, Henry Thomas, Kate Siegel) and some newcomers (Mark Hamill, Mary McDonnell) in the cast. JEN CHANEY MOVIES 2. See Anatomy of a Fall Sandra Hüller is the queen of this season. In limited theatrical release, October 13. Justine Triet’s thriller, winner of this year’s Palme d’Or, is about an author, played by Sandra Hüller, who’s on trial for the murder of her husband, who died by falling off their house. Hüller, who’s getting…

IN THEORY, IT SHOULD BE enough that he is a certified loser. Joe Biden defeated Donald Trump once before, and it could happen again. In that election, Trump’s major liabilities were his mismanagement of the coronavirus pandemic and its related economic fallout. For this one, he is campaigning in between stops on a national tour of court appearances and arrest dates. The risk for the Republican Party is not just that history will repeat itself but that it will elaborate. Yet with each successive indictment, Trump grows stronger. His support deepens. It has always been true that Trump’s fans see him as their id. Now, his legal troubles have had the effect of turning this very rich and powerful man into a proxy for anyone who feels like the victim…

THE LOOK BOOK GOES TO THE WHITNEY A HARLEM APARTMENT CHOCKABLOCK WITH HISTORY BEST BETS ➸ WHEN STRATEGIST WRITER Lauren Ro began her search for the best high chair, she suspected she already knew the answer. She had used the Stokke Tripp Trapp High Chair ($319) for her own sons and been thoroughly impressed—and heard other parents on staff sing its praises, too. The experts she spoke to agreed that it towers above the Primos and Lalos and Maxi-Cosis of the world. It has an upright seat and a footrest, which feeding expert Jennifer Anderson says ensures that babies will be properly positioned to “manage the food and swallow it safely.” Also, the wooden Norwegian design is downright attractive as well as durable, straightforward, easy to clean, and incredibly versatile,…

➽ ON A RECENT Sunday afternoon as cold rain coated Brooklyn with mist, a family of three trudged past a soaked cardboard box of miniature pumpkins into the Gowanus Whole Foods. They had come to behold a new onion: Sweet Garleek—championed by chef Dan Barber—the first allium of its kind, a hybrid between garlic and a leek. But unlike traditional leeks, each stalk is a cinch to clean. They look like overgrown scallions and smell like green garlic. When cooked, they’re a little grassy, a little buttery. “It’s not an artificially enhanced flavor,” observed Kim Cohen, who had seen the new onion on social media and who, along with her partner and their infant, braved the rain for a taste. “It’s really sweet. It’s complex. It’s unexpected.” Sweet Garleek is…