➽ THERE ARE ONLY about 20 different Ethiopian restaurants across the five boroughs. I’ve eaten at almost all of them, and the injera—the fermented flatbread that serves as both the platter for a variety of stews, sauces, and veggies as well as the utensil with which everything is eaten—is often the weakest part. The batter is infamously finicky, so quality and consistency vary wildly: This city is full of thin injera, square injera, bright-white injera (belying a lack of teff, the dark, earthy grain that’s crucial to real injera), and, worst of all, dry and crumbly injera that undoes the bread’s sauce-soaking appeal.
The injera platter at Bersi (1049 Manhattan Ave., nr. Freeman St., Greenpoint; bersinyc.com), which opened this past summer with an all-vegan menu, is the good stuff. It…
