➽ LOVERS OF COTTAGE FRIES—the ridged discs of golden potato that are ideal for dipping into ketchup—were devastated when they vanished from the menu of J.G. Melon (1291 Third Ave., at E. 74th St.) in December and then, a couple of months later, from that of Roll-N-Roaster (2901 Emmons Ave., at E. 29th St., Sheepshead Bay), the two most famous cottage-fry purveyors on the planet.
The frozen fries came from Lamb Weston, a food processor based in Eagle, Idaho, that decided to halt production, owing in part to a subpar potato crop. “It was very concerning,” says Eric Rodriguez, the general manager at Roll-N-Roaster. The restaurant now serves a fry that Rodriguez describes as something between a wedge and a scoop. “The thing is,” he says, “a lot of people…
