AT THE END OF HIS SHIFT on March 12, 2020, Raúl Hernández, a sous-chef at Balthazar, decided to bring his lucky white coat—the one he was wearing the time he cooked for Leonardo DiCaprio—home, rather than leave it in his locker. The staff had just learned the restaurant would be closing, and Hernández, who had helped open Balthazar in 1997, didn’t know when he’d be back.
In its 23 years, Keith McNally’s brasserie brought power-breakfasting to Soho, played host to movie premieres and Fashion Week launches, and witnessed the transformation of the neighborhood into a capital for the finance, fashion, and digital elite. Thirteen of Balthazar’s 119 employees have worked there since the day it opened; last year, most found themselves unemployed, some for the first time in their lives.…