Innholdsfortegnelse for 12/24-1/6/19 i New York Magazine

1 For our 14th annual “Reasons to Love New York” issue, we asked a wide range of New Yorkers (and some frequent visitors) to share their very favorite places across the boroughs—with even more spots featured online (December 10–23). Grace Segers gushed, “Oh man, I love everything about this piece and so many of the places listed in it. That weird curvy street near 191st! The David H. Koch Theater! Lee’s Tavern!” And @AbbyMCarney tweeted, “Always down for a love song to NYC. This place stole my heart when I was but a tween … It’s still so magical to me, and I think it always will be.” Journalist Tim Murphy wrote, “Everything here is great. Zephyr Teachout’s entry [Veselka] is very on-brand.” Kate Gustafson recommended adding “Valentino Pier on…

CALIFORNIA STATE PRISON, Los Angeles County, is located roughly 70 miles northeast of the palm tree–lined boulevards of Beverly Hills, but it may as well be 80 million. The prison is an ecosystem unto itself, where more than 3,000 men live sandwiched between the sunbaked terrain and a wide, unforgiving sky. In the middle of a summer day, when temperatures regularly reach 105 degrees in the shade, and the desert wind blows so hot it feels like it could sear the eyebrows off your face, the landscape conveys an almost biblical feeling of punishment. On the morning of August 18, 2018, after waiting seven hours for my number to come up, I faced the prison’s iron security gates, but I kept setting off the metal detector. I wound up having…

THE GOAL: Find the best pumice stone for sloughing off winter skin. the VERDICT: The best pumice stone happens not to be a pumice stone at all. According to medical pedicurists—technicians who are trained to deal with all manner of foot issues—the porous rocks too easily collect bacteria. Dr. Krista Archer, a podiatric surgeon who offers medi-pedis, instead recommends dry scrubbing with a metal foot file, like the surgical-gradesteel Diamancel ($40; diamancel.com). “Sit on the edge of the tub and scrub, scrub, scrub,” she says. “Then once the snow accumulates, rinse.” FIRST LOOK In January, Pearl River Mart will open a tightly edited outpost of its iconic emporium in the Museum of Chinese in America (215 Centre St.). Jewelry: Pieces by Chinese-American brands like Pixiu, which makes modern…

Joe Coffee Company’s house drip doesn’t stick to a formula. The current incarnation is brewed from four varieties from Peru. A Small Black Drip Begins on a Tree in the Andes 1 The roughly 3,000 small-producer members of the Cenfrocafe cooperative in Peru’s mountainous northern region of Cajamarca pluck the ripened coffee fruit off their trees, de-pulp the coffee cherries, and ferment them. 2 The seeds are dried, bagged, and conveyed via truck or motorcycle or on foot to a regional purchasing station, then to the main Cenfrocafe warehouse in Jaén, where the coffee is evaluated and sorted into lots based on quality. 3 Once pre-shipment samples are vetted for size, density, and defects by Cafe Imports, the Minneapolis-based importer that Joe Coffee uses, the coffee is sent to Norandino…

Co-chefs Alex Raij and Eder Montero wanted to serve a collar—that oddly shaped, trash-to-trendy flap of meat and cartilage from behind the gills, popularized by Japanese izakayas. “It’s what we eat on our day off,” says Raij. Their hunt for sustainable options led them to a high-tech farmed-fish operation in Japan. This Kanpachi Collar Started Out As a One-Inch Fry Off China’s Hainan Island 1 After they grow to roughly four inches in small bamboo-thatched pens, the kanpachi travel by boat to Japan, where they’re divided among members of a fishermen’s co-op who raise them in open-water pens for 20 to 22 months on a diet that might include dried and soft pellets (think dog food for fish) until they reach an average weight of about eight pounds. 2 Then…

Ribalta’s “regular” margherita is its most popular pie, and it’s not quite as full-blooded Italian as you might expect. To Earn the Right to Top This Pizza, the Tomatoes Had to Win a Contest When Neapolitan natives Rosario Procino and Pasquale Cozzolino (left) opened Ribalta four years ago, they went straight to the San Marzano source: family-run farms in the Agro Sarnese Nocerino area of Campania. At the invitation of Claudia Vitelli, owner of New Jersey–based Vitelli Foods, which acts as a broker for the farms, Procino and Cozzolino taste-tested tomatoes from several fields. Every September since, Vitelli has sent cans of the season’s harvest to Ribalta, one from each of the producers the pair liked best on their trip. Three out of four years, the winner has been Giulio…

LIFE IS JUST a shock to the system. ✒ IT TURNS OUT that the man I have spent 50 years believing to be my father is not my father.1 ✒ MY MOTHER LIED TO ME about who my father is. ✒ MY FATHER IS Bob Adelman, the photographer, who most famously caught Martin Luther King Jr.2 in profile having a dream on the Lincoln Memorial. You know the shot. You know many of Bob’s pictures. When they say something is iconic, they just mean everyone knows it. Bob was early for history. ✒ I TOO CHANCED young upon the world. When my first book came out, I was 27 years old. Prozac Nation3 changed the way people see mental illness, and it changed the way publishers see memoirs. The New…

Are you a Romanoff Romanoff? Maybe I shouldn’t answer that so the world thinks I’m some countess who escaped as the bullets were flying. The real story is that it was my ex-husband’s name and I kept it because I thought it was magical for theater. I’m an actress. He wasn’t a Russian Romanoff either; he was a Jew from Ohio. What’s your next performance? I’m actually on my way to pick up a script from the playwright Randy McHaney. It’s funny you stopped me in Union Square, by the way, because Bill Cunningham photographed me here in 2016. I was buying lilies and wearing this lavender hat, and I turned around and he had his camera right in my face. He said, “That’s a beautiful hat,” and I said,…

In addition to acres of pierogi and boatloads of borscht, Veselka, the 24/7 Ukrainian diner, sells about 500 fried-egg sandwiches per week. When the restaurant opened, in 1954, the ne plus ultra of New York breakfasts-on-the-go wasn’t listed on the bill of fare, says co-owner Tom Birchard, but you could always order one off the menu. Veselka’s Egg on a Roll Begins at the Hatchery 1 Thousands of eggs are artificially incubated at the Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania, branch of Hy-Line North America, a “poultry layer genetics” company. At day 21, the chicks hatch, and within 24 hours they’re placed in plastic baskets holding 100 chicks each, ready for delivery to farms. 2 One of these farms is Brey’s Egg Farm in Sullivan County. Owner Daniel Brey receives 96,000 Leghorn chicks from…

When in the general vicinity—especially after a light lunch—who can resist the magnetic pull and wafting aroma pervading the southeast corner of 72nd and Broadway, the flagship location of Gray’s Papaya hot-doggery? This Hot Dog Was Made in Part From the Meat of Retired Dairy Cows 1 Chambers Valley Farms, Inc. in Salem, New York, is a member of the Cabot Creamery co-op. When dairy cows grow too old or infirm to produce milk or keep up with the herd, they’re sent to Champlain Beef, a nearby processor and one of four main slaughterhouses around the country that sell beef to Marathon Enterprises, the manufacturer of Gray’s Papaya’s hot dogs. There, they’re slaughtered and deboned, and the meat is packed into 2,000-pound combo bins for shipping. 2 The bins travel…

The collar may have started out as what Dainichi’s Boyd Way calls “more of a butcher’s cut,” but you can now find it at sustainably minded New York fish markets and on both Western and Japanese menus. “ The flesh is some of the best,” says Way. “It’s the muscle that moves most, with a large amount of lipid and protein.” But it was the hamachi collarhamachi kama in menuspeak—that likely pioneered the trend, not the smaller and leaner kanpachi. “The reason I imported kanpachi collars was because I could not source hamachi collars,” Way says. “My Japanese co-workers sold them all domestically. I started selling them last year. Wheeler was my first client.”…

If you want to trace the origin of the cheese that ends up on Ribalta’s most popular pizza, you’ve got to begin 50 miles outside of Naples, in the town of Bagnoli Irpino (population 3,000). That’s where Angelo Tartaglia and Franco Russo—of the Hawthorne, California–based company Angelo & Franco’s: The Mozzarella Guys—grew up and where Russo, whose family has been in the mozzarella business for over 75 years, learned the art of pasta filata (stretched- or pulled-curd cheeses) starting at the ripe old age of 4. “In the morning, Franco went to school,” says Tartaglia. “In the afternoon, he studied cheese.” Angelo & Franco’s uses milk supplied by California Dairies, Inc., a 400-member co-op, to make Ribalta’s one-pound low-moisture-mozzarella logs. Every week, the Brewster, New York, distributor Ace Endico picks…

“At some point, I began to feel like I was in a dream. Or that I was half-awake, unable to distinguish the virtual from the real, the local from the global, a product from a Photoshop image, the sincere from the insincere.” —Jenny Odell, in the New York Times, after she investigated an Amazon reseller that had bought goods from other Amazon resellers and resold them, again on Amazon, at higher prices using an elaborate network of fake price-gouging, copyright-stealing businesses.…

WHEN SHE WAS 45, at around the same time her menstrual periods became irregular, Janet developed an obsession with a man at work. Now 61, Janet has the same job she had back then, managing the chemistry-department stockroom at a small northeastern college. But at the time, she was studying for a master’s degree and living in a suburb with her husband and teenage daughter, and Jim was a new addition to the chemistry faculty. He had a quiet, sensitive nervousness that appealed to Janet, and she felt from the outset that they had a bond. The first time Janet began to feel seriously off was in the spring of 2001, when she was taking Jim’s inorganic chemistry class. Sitting in the lecture hall, listening to Jim talk about metals…

Jessica Gonsalves STORE OWNER Once upon a time, there were few places to buy quality vintage hip-hop T-shirts in New York. Then along came Procell, the Lower East Side boutique founded by Jessica Gonsalves and her fiancé, Brian Procell. Six years later, the store is more popular than ever (Frank Ocean has a Procell shirt), and the couple travel the world in search of rare vintage sportswear and designer finds—most recently, to Vietnam, looking at dead-stock Nikes. Prada jacket, similar styles at Prada, 575 Broadway. DeVonn Francis CHEF DeVonn Francis is a chef, artist, and event planner with a mission. Through his food-media and event company Yardy, he hosts Caribbean-themed dinner parties—seafood and coconut milk are usually on the menu—to uplift and support migrant communities. The goal is to “capture…

DO YOU KNOW WHERE YOUR FOOD COMES FROM? Do you want to know? Truth be told, we all could stand to be more inquisitive about the provenance of the stuff that ends up on our plate. The best most of us do on a typical trip to Gristedes or Trader Joe’s is to check the expiration date on a tub of yogurt; or, while perusing the menu at our neighborhood bistro, sheepishly ask the waiter where the shrimp is from or if the salmon is wild, at which point he or she will feign great interest and say, “You know, that is a very good question. Let me check with the kitchen,” and then, of course, never get back to us. Taking as our premise that there might be a…

Leghorn chickens, the breed that inspired the Looney Tunes character Foghorn Leghorn, who lived to terrorize Barnyard Dawg, are popular laying hens among commercial egg producers. Leghorns like the white hybrid variety raised on Brey’s Egg Farm (see opposite) are descendants of a chicken that originated in Italy. The birds were exported from Livorno to Connecticut, circa 1830. (The British, for reasons of their own, anglicized “Livorno” and thus the poor chickens became known as “Leghorns.”) These birds are tall and sleek. They’re prized because, like supermodels, they don’t eat a lot, and they’re also capable of laying over 300 eggs per year. And like the cartoon character, they’re not exactly warm and fuzzy; in fact, some Leghorns possess a bit of a mean streak. As a blog called The…

Gregory Papalexis founded New Jersey–based Marathon Enterprises, a manufacturer of hot dogs, sausages, and buns, in 1964. (He also ran a pushcart operation called House O’ Weenies.) In 1989, the company acquired competitor Sabrett Food Products. The Sabrett name was retained and Marathon continues to make hot dogs for Sabrett-branded street vendors, Gray’s Papaya, Papaya King, and—according to unconfirmed but persuasive rumors—Katz’s.…

Farmed and frozen tend to be stigmas, not selling points. But according to Dainichi’s foreign-trade manager, Boyd Way, Uwajima-kaido employs several superior techniques. First, prior to processing, the fish are held for 10 to 16 hours in a super-oxygenated tank for relaxation, which prevents the flavor-and-texture-impairing buildup of lactic acid in the muscle tissue. Their spinal columns are removed, and through an injection of a carbon-enriched saline solution, virtually all their blood is eliminated in under ten minutes. The fish are filleted, and the loins and collars vacuum-packed and frozen via alcohol brine. This cho-rei-kun, or “super-frozen-smoked” technique, is said to preserve bright color and fresh flavor.…

Sean Corcoran: This is a staged photograph. The woman is Toba Metz, who would become Kubrick’s first wife. She was his girlfriend at the time this photo was taken. I don’t know who the guy is. Donald Albrecht: Some people may know that Kubrick worked for Look magazine, but very few know how extensive that work was. He photographed for them for five years and produced hundreds of assignments.…

DeAnne Smith, Canada Part of a comedy matryoshka doll with Hannah Gadsby, Cameron Esposito, and Moshe Kasher. K. Trevor Wilson, Canada A Toronto comic whose deep, booming voice you should probably know by now. Loyiso Gola, South Africa His satirical news show, Late Nite News With Loyiso Gola, has been nominated twice for an International Emmy. Nish Kumar, U.K. You’ve likely seen his sharp English wit and viral takedowns on BBC Two’s The Mash Report. Mae Martin, U.K. Among Edinburgh’s favorite comics; debuted at age 13; millennial friend of Hannah Gadsby. Also worth watching: Neal Brennan, U.S., and Nicole Byer, U.S.…

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