Innholdsfortegnelse for 8/20-9/2/18 i New York Magazine

1 New York dedicated 27 pages in its most recent issue to a look back at the 2008 financial crisis and how it continues to shape the world we live in (“2008,” August 6–19). Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez, the socialist candidate poised to become the youngest woman elected to the U.S. House, shared the feature, writing, “The 2008 crisis represented one of the largest wealth transfers in American history … It’s time for a 21st-century New Deal.” And the Intercept’s Glenn Greenwald added, “If I had presided over all of this, or had spent the last three decades cheering the policies that caused it, I would also want everyone to spend all their time thinking obsessively about Putin and Moscow instead of who and what is responsible for this.” The inclusion of…

NONE.” This is Kieran Culkin’s one-word answer to my question about how much preparation he put into playing Roman Roy, the charismatically loathsome scion of the billionaire Roy clan and the breakout character on HBO’s Succession, the breakout show of the summer. We’re sitting in Decibel, the impressively graffitied East Village sake bar. It’s early enough that it’s empty save for a few tourists who’ve just arrived, guidebooks in hand. “Thirty-five and a half years on the island of Manhattan,” says Culkin about his lifetime in New York. “I can’t tell if there’s more people on the street or I’m just old so I’m getting more frustrated that there’s people on the street,” he says of East Village crowds. “I’m dating myself, but I used to Rollerblade down the sidewalk…

1. The classic Edward Albee play about an emotionally vicious, alcohol-infused evening in the lives of couple George and Martha. Elizabeth Taylor won a Best Actress Oscar as Martha in the 1966 film. To great acclaim, Turner played the role on Broadway in 2005. 2. Turner earned a Tony nom for her work as Maggie in a 1990 Broadway production of Cat on a Hot Tin Roof, the same role Taylor played in the 1958 film. In 1989, Taylor again took on a Tennessee Williams role in the TV adaptation of Sweet Bird of Youth. 3. In 1992, Turner was diagnosed with rheumatoid arthritis. The autoimmune disorder causes severe pain and swelling, typically in the joints. Those symptoms rendered Turner unable to work for large stretches, and the pain medication…

“I hated eggplant as a kid,” says Santina executive chef Ashley Eddie. “If it wasn’t breaded and fried and covered with cheese, I wouldn’t eat it.” But when Santina co-owner Mario Carbone asked her to devise an eggplant-parmigiana recipe that reflected the restaurant’s lighter, fresher (and incidentally gluten-free) coastal-Italian theme, Eddie rose to the challenge. By deconstructing the dish and liberating the nightshade vegetable (berry, actually) from its muffling cloak of cheese and sauce, she highlighted its inherent creaminess, a trait she punctuates by juxtaposing it with the thinnest, crispiest rice-flour-coated shell. Barely cooked tomatoes and warm burrata form a familiar backdrop for the featured ingredient, which is available year-round but happens to be at the peak of its late-summer season. On the menu at Santina; $29; 820 Washington St.,…

WHEN SANDRA OH was 21, her older sister spotted an ad in an alt-weekly looking for a young Asian actress. Oh, a student at the National Theatre School of Canada at the time, became fixated on the part—the starring role in The Diary of Evelyn Lau, a TV biopic on the Canadian novelist and poet’s teenage-runaway years. She took a seven-hour bus ride from Montreal to Toronto for a tryout with the director, Sturla Gunnarsson. Before her audition, Oh slept in a bus station and went to a park to do breathing exercises. When she arrived, in baggy overalls and a T-shirt, she lay down on the floor and asked the casting director to hold her hand before she read a scene. “I said, ‘I’ll just squeeze it until I’m…

Black Panther Marvel was probably already planning an awards campaign for its $700 million hit. But will Black Panther still be taken seriously as a Best Picture contender if there’s another Oscar just to recognize how much money it’s made? Crazy Rich Asians Romantic comedies haven’t had much luck at the Oscars, but the new category might be an opening for this one, the first big studio movie with an all-Asian cast since 1993’s Joy Luck Club. A Quiet Place John Krasinski’s well-reviewed $188 million hit is more than a disposable horror movie but lacks the cultural heft of, say, Get Out. It would’ve been a tough sell for Best Picture, but the new Oscar might be a good compromise. Mission: Impossible—Fallout This franchise has never been invited to the…

MOST OF THE TIME, the Cut is a website (part of the New York digital family), but in this special issue, the team behind thecut.com has taken over what was once the “Fall Fashion” issue. It’s an experiment—like hanging a painting upside down and then deciding it looks interesting that way. ¶ Time tends to collapse on the internet. There are no seasons, only epochs of memes. The rush to receive information makes it easy to forget how or when things even happen. In attempting to adapt the wild, backlit density of that universe, we realized there’s nothing quite like print on paper to capture, then distill a moment. ¶ This first issue of the Cut in print is guided by the principles of improvisation. We worked with artists from…

THREE YEARS AGO, an artist with the Instagram handle @0h_heck looked down at her white Air Force 1 sneakers, which were worn out and covered in clay from her time in the studio, and realized that they sort of looked ceramic. She decided to try replicating designer shoes in clunky, coil-built, hand-painted detail, with uncanny results.We sent the 24-year-old Brooklyn-based ceramist five more to build.…

“We all have an ideal definition of what is beautiful. Ninety-five percent of the time, it’s been brought to you by Caucasian America, telling us that this is the standard. I was constantly advocating for models of color. There’d be 100 models on a board who are white and look the same and only two black models. Are you kidding me?” —KENDALL WERTS, TALENT MANAGER “The notion of chic has French connotations; there’s an inherent snootiness. I think cool is equally difficult to define, but in America it specifically comes from the black American experience, and it’s completely changed the way we think about fashion.” —CHIOMA NNADI, FASHION NEWS DIRECTOR, VOGUE.COM “My goal is to be named on the Hollywood Reporter’s “Most Powerful Stylists” list. Only one black woman has…

“We’re trained and conditioned that there can only be one. So you see other black women as being in direct competition with you, instead of thinking, “You know what, let me go talk to her and maybe we can help each other out.”” —GABBY PRESCOD, SENIOR FASHION MARKET EDITOR, BUSTLE “If more people of color were involved behind the scenes styling and shooting fashion stories, you wouldn’t get black models only wearing athletic wear or doing a “tribal” story. Why can’t a black model be in a dream location pretending to be Alice in Wonderland?” —NICOLE CHAPOTEAU, STYLIST “We hired a tall, skinny black model to be featured on a site I once worked for. One of the founders sent us a memo: “I want you to stop using this…

“Internships often involve unpaid work. But it doesn’t feel good to perpetuate a system that penalizes people who don’t come from money. I wish I could afford to put all of my interns on staff, so they wouldn’t have to work multiple jobs in order to fulfill their dreams.” —SOLANGE FRANKLIN, STYLIST “It’s a challenge to be taken seriously as a designer by investors who could potentially fund a collection. One designer I’ve worked with for a long time has had several potential investment deals fall through. But I’d say it’s even more difficult to get invited into spaces where we can have access to investors.” —BRANDICE DANIEL, FOUNDER, HARLEM’S FASHION ROW “There isn’t a “system” per se anymore; there’s a confluence of circumstances that rule today’s fashion marketplace. Fewer…

ONE MORNING LAST WEEK during executive time, President Trump tweeted out his assessment of the Russia investigation. “The Rigged Russian Witch Hunt goes on and on as the ‘originators and founders’ of this scam continue to be fired and demoted for their corrupt and illegal activity,” he raged. “All credibility is gone from this terrible Hoax, and much more will be lost as it proceeds. No Collusion!” Amid this torrent of lies, the president had identified one important truth. There has in fact been a series of firings and demotions of law-enforcement officials. The casualties include FBI director James Comey, deputy director Andrew McCabe, general counsel James Baker, and, most recently, agent Peter Strzok. Robert Mueller is probing the circumstances surrounding Trump’s firing of Comey for a possible obstruction-of-justice charge.…

AT 2:30 on February 14, David Hogg was not yet a spokesperson for radicalized young America or a renowned media savant or a resistance fighter or, to some, the encapsulation of everything terrifying about where the country is going, but a high-school senior crouched in a dark classroom while a gunman with an AR-15 ranged beyond the walls of his hiding place, slaughtering 17 people in six minutes. In the quiet aftermath, when the shooting at Marjory Stoneman Douglas High School had stopped but before the SWAT team had given the all clear, the 17-year-old debate geek did what first came to mind: He detached himself from the situation by turning on his phone’s video recorder and, in a perfect simulation of the news correspondents he had watched in his…

GOVERNOR ANDREW CUOMO ASKS the pilot to swing the state helicopter around so he can have a second look. About 1,000 feet below us, in a patch of Atlantic Ocean two miles south of Shinnecock, Long Island, a cargo ship equipped with a crane is lifting massive iron trusses and dropping them into the sea. The operation takes discarded material from one of the governor’s pet infrastructure projects—replacing the Tappan Zee Bridge—and uses it to expand two of his other initiatives, environmental protection and tourism, by creating an artificial reef. ¶ As the helicopter tilts and turns to give Cuomo a prime overhead view, a campaign pitch starts to unfurl. “They’ve been talking about doing these things for so long, since when I was a kid,” he says. “And it…

How long have you played tennis? Since I was 4 and a half. My dad was watching a lot of tennis on TV then and thought maybe I should try it. I’ve always been very competitive. When I was little, I played a lot of video games with my older brothers, like Mario and this series called Cooking Mama. I’d get mad if I lost. I’d usually stop playing and need a couple of minutes to calm down. But I’m working on being calm about losing when I play tennis. I try to keep the anger inside of me. How often do you practice? Right now, because it’s summer, five days a week and seven hours a day. Who’s the hardest kid to beat? For me, a girl named Victoria.…

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JANE FONDA IN FIVE ACTS will debut on HBO on September 24. IT’S THE FIRST FULL day of the Traverse City Film Festival in Michigan, and outside the State Theatre, Jane Fonda’s 1970 mug shot is blown up to poster size. Even if you’ve seen it countless times, the photo will still stop you in your tracks: the undeniable movie-star glamour, the fist raised confidently in the air, the almost blasé look on her face, as though getting arrested (for alleged “drug possession”—actually vitamins) were completely normal. On the curb, the real-life Jane Fonda gets out of her car and bounds over to embrace Michael Moore, who founded the festival and will be presenting her with a Lifetime Achievement Award later in the evening. She’s wearing a blazer with a…

Tinu GUESSES “She’s an artist who lives in Brooklyn and does printworking. She’s living her best single life.” —Liz, 29 “She’s definitely a millennial because the look is not structured and she exudes a particular confidence.” —Debra, 54 “Lower East Side, went to high school in Queens. Taking a pottery class. A solo venturer.” —Britina, 23 REALITY OCCUPATION: Blogger, Former Banker AGE: “Legal to drink” I happen to be on the way to my child’s doctor’s office. And I’m a big collector of parasols. Vee GUESSES “He looks like an explorer. He has been to the Amazon rain forest. He can start a fire. If I was on a deserted island, I would take him.” —Kaitlin, 17 “He’s a beekeeper. He has kids, but he’s divorced.” —Jiali, 28 “I think…

KAMALA HARRIS PREFERS tosprint through our nation’s airports in Converse Chuck Taylors. You can’t blame California’s 53-year-old junior senator and former state attorney general for wanting to move quickly: She’s spent the past 18 months learning how the Senate really works, voting “hell no” to Trump’s nominees and positioning herself as a possible Democratic contender for 2020 in the process. On a typical morning: I work out every morning. Usually it’s half an hour on the elliptical or SoulCycle, and on the weekends Soul Survivor [a longer and more intense SoulCycle class]. Sometimes I swim if it’s not going to create an issue with my hair. Then I get ready. I usually stand at my kitchen counter eating Raisin Bran in almond milk while I look at my schedule for…

IT’S UNCLEAR, STILL, who is to blame for the situation that occurred at Frank’s Cocktail Lounge in Fort Greene, Brooklyn. It could easily be the weather. The night air is the sort of steam-room moist-hot that allows for only one of two states of being: lethargic or horny. Even inside, with A/C on, our thighs stick to the bar’s cracked red vinyl seats. Or it could be the music. We’ve been passing my iPhone back and forth, loading the bar’s app-controlled jukebox with our favorite songs. One of us accidentally queues the same reggaeton song three times, and the pelvic-thrusting bass line shifts the mood. Or maybe it’s just Frank’s. With its glowing red lights and heavy pours, it’s always sort of been a pickup spot, which Tessa Thompson is…

“It’s not about blackness, it’s about context and understanding, where we come from and how broad the diaspora is. Ad campaigns featuring black people sometimes miss the mark because they truly do not understand the foundation. If you don’t know that putting a black child in a sweatshirt that says “Coolest Monkey in the Jungle” is triggering, then you are still losing, no matter how inclusive you’re trying to be.” —RECHO OMONDI, DESIGNER “Someone once said to me, “I’m going to go to John Barrett and get boxer braids.” I pretended not to know what they are and asked her to explain it to me. She was like, “It’s like tiny French braids.” I asked her to send me a picture, and then said, “Oh, you mean cornrows?” She said,…

Dapper Dan is a proud fashion outlaw. Ever since his beginnings as a sought-after Harlem-based hip-hop tailor in the ’80s, his commitment to fashion has always celebrated black culture. Multiple legal battles about trademark infringement led to the closing of his atelier in 1992. Fast-forward to 2017, the year in which Gucci co-opted a one-of-a-kind design he’d created for Olympic track star Diane Dixon back in 1989. The move sparked a very public debate about cultural appropriation; Gucci eventually approached Dan for a collaboration later that year. “My choice to go into fashion was more like a hustle. I catered to the criminal subculture because they had money, but a different perception about class. Since I was denied the opportunity to buy clothes wholesale, I had to go into manufacturing.…

WHEN KATHLEEN TURNER, standing in the New York reception area, introduces herself in her singular throaty rasp, the effect is almost comical—who else has a voice like that? “This thing happens with restaurants,” says Turner as we walk to a conference room. “I’ll call up and say, ‘This is Kathleen Turner,’ and they’ll hear me and say, ‘Why, yes it is.’” ¶ For a time, that voice, and her charismatic blend of steel and sass, made Turner one of film’s most interesting and popular actresses. The now-64-year-old starred in an impressive string of ’80s hits (Body Heat, Prizzi’s Honor, and Peggy Sue Got Married, among others, as well as The War of the Roses, Romancing the Stone, and The Jewel of the Nile, the latter trio all co-starring Michael Douglas).…

This season’s surprisingly ubiquitous accessory, the balaclava, was first spotted at the Calvin Klein 205W39NYC runway show in February. Then ten days later at the Gucci show in Milan (Rihanna wore it to Coachella soon after), and on Chanel’s Paris runway in March. Why now for the Crimean snood? Calvin Klein chief creative officer Raf Simons name-checks the 1995 Todd Haynes film Safe as an inspiration (wherein Julianne Moore’s character, a sickly housewife, wears one when leaving the house). His striped wool headpiece ($290 at 654 Madison Ave., at 60th St.; 212-292-9000) is a little less bleak: It comes in a range of bright colors and can be worn rolled into a hat or fully pulled down during the next nor’easter. For even more coverage, pair it with Calvin Klein’s…

MILTON WILLIAM “BILL” COOPER (1943–2001), while largely unknown in the hated mainstream media, was the most important “conspiracy” writer and thinker of his time. Chances are individuals like Alex Jones, QAnon, and even Donald Trump would not have manifested the way they have without the influence of Bill Cooper and his book Behold a Pale Horse, which, 27 years after it was first published in 1991, remains the primer of the new American paranoid canon. Cooper’s life, from his military service as a riverboat captain in the Vietnam War through intense exploration of the “fringe” culture of UFOs, the Kennedy assassination, the Knights Templar, radical patriot militias, and the 9/11 Truth movement, ended the only way it could have. In November 2001, as he predicted on his shortwave-radio show, “The…

WHEN YOU’RE IN THE MOOD FOR DOOMED LOVE Roméo et Juliette, August 25. Tenor Vittorio Grigolo and soprano Diana Damrau make teenage misery sound exquisite in Gounod’s hyper-romantic opera. WHEN YOU WANT THE ULTIMATE DYSFUNCTIONAL-FAMILY DRAMA Elektra, August 27. The unsinkable Nina Stemme sails through Strauss’s blood-soaked tragedy with finely modulated fury. WHEN YOU WANT BRILLIANTLY SUNG COMEDY Il Barbiere di Siviglia, August 28. What deluxe casting: Christopher Maltman sings the huckster/barber/sidekick Figaro who steers Isabel Leonard’s Rosina and Lawrence Brownlee’s Almaviva into each other’s arms. WHEN YOU WANT EXISTENTIAL DREAD Lulu, August 29. William Kentridge’s production of Berg’s doomed-woman melodrama is an artwork in itself, and soprano Marlis Petersen wears the title role like a zip-on second skin. WHEN YOU WANT AUTUMNAL MELANCHOLY Der Rosenkavalier,…

1 Scarlett Johansson’s Tom Waits Cover Album By Kelly Conaboy AS NOBODIES, I THINK, we often underestimate the difficulty that comes with celebrity. The famous have wealth, dinner reservations, and likely excellent in-network dentists, yes, but with their myriad opportunities comes danger. The loss of privacy; the struggle for sustained success in a field that prizes youth even more than every other field. It’s a pity. But the greatest fame-related peril of them all is, of course, the ability to embark on large-scale vanity projects. The vanity project most consistently on my mind—more than Jessica Biel’s bygone children’s restaurant; less, admittedly, than Donald Trump’s presidency—is Scarlett Johansson’s inexplicable 2008 Tom Waits cover album, Anywhere I Lay My Head. Since its release a decade ago, no week in my life has…

STEFANO TONCHI, editor of W magazine, has had just about enough, albeit in an unmussed, well-mannered, and not terribly bothered sort of way. It was the afternoon of August 9, the day after the magazine’s owner, the once mythically flush publishing firm of Cond é Nast, had called a companywide meeting to run through various ways to save itself (most of which has already been leaked) after losing $120 million last year. Back-office functions were to be merged, seven of the company’s 23 floors at 1 World Trade Center would be sublet, and three magazines—Golf Digest, Brides and W—were going to be sold. Tonchi had asked me over to his exquisite midtown apartment to explain how the news was “quite liberating in certain ways.” W, you see, isn’t being dumped:…

“As a black person in fashion and in life, I feel a responsibility to make sure we are represented. When I worked in the fashion departments at Mirabella and New York magazines in the ’90s, I pushed for the use of models of all colors in our shoots. Now, as an actor, activist, and businessperson, I have a better vocabulary about what I was fighting for then. And as a designer, my blackness, curves, and age are what inspired me to make a collection that’s accessible to everyone.” —TRACEE ELLIS ROSS, ACTOR-DESIGNER “Things would change if more prominent black actresses or actors would use black creatives. If my client goes to the Oscars and does the whole awards season, then so do…

“I had a terrible experience early on in my career where I was booked for a cover and the hairdresser had absolutely no idea what to do with my hair. This was back in the mid ’80s, before you could just run to any corner and get a flat iron or find a salon that was good with black hair down in Soho. It cost me the first American cover I could have had, and it was a good five years before I got another chance.” —VERONICA WEBB, MODEL “We’re required as editors to go to everything. But white beauty editors do not cover the black beauty events or the products that cater to the multicultural community. As a black beauty editor, you find yourself educating others on our hair…

“As a creative, I don’t wanna be put in a box. If I wanna do something today, I’ll do it today. If I’m gonna do something tomorrow, that’s what I’m gonna do tomorrow. Don’t just look at my color and automatically assume you know what I’m gonna do. My inspiration comes from everything.” —MAXWELL OSBORNE, DESIGNER “Don’t expect black people to only write about black things. Granted, they’ll probably be most passionate about that, but you also should be open to the other things they want to talk about.” —CHANNING HARGROVE, FASHION WRITER, REFINERY29 “It’s sad that ‘mainstream’ means white.” —CAMARA AUNIQUE, CELEBRITY MAKEUP ARTIST “Race is not a trend. My skin is not a trend. My body, my booty—not a fashion trend.” —TYRA BANKS, MODEL “It’s not unusual for…

EVERYONE GETS DRESSED in the morning, but few people make it look as easy as Justin Bieber. His shoes do not lace; they slide. His baggy bottoms seem to have a pact with gravity (unless belted with a shoestring), and his T-shirts hang at varying lengths of extra-long. ¶ This summer, GQ admiringly declared that Bieber doesn’t seem to give “one single solitary fuck when it comes to getting dressed,” while Vanity Fair concluded that he appeared to try “even less hard” than his sartorially haphazard contemporaries Jonah Hill and Pete Davidson. It may look like Bieber tripped and fell into his designer clothes, but in fact one woman works very hard to orchestrate this effortlessness. Her name is Karla Welch. Okay … the hotel slippers Bieber wore on the…