Innholdsfortegnelse for 2/5-2/18/18 i New York Magazine

1 “To date, 390 women are planning to run for the House of Representatives, a figure that’s higher than at any time in American history,” Rebecca Traister reported in New York’s latest cover story (“The Other Women’s March on Washington,” January 22–February 4). Senator Patty Murray responded, “I see a passion among women who understand that if you sit at home and don’t go out and participate, you lose what’s important to you. Proud of all the women who are making their voices heard.” Abby Finkenauer, whose run for Congress was featured in Traister’s story, wrote, “It’s time to not just watch but to get involved: no race is too small and no challenge is too big.” One of the voices championing the story was Time’s national correspondent Charlotte Alter,…

THE FASHION INDUSTRY DEPENDS ON CHANGE, on the constant flow of new ideas, on the constant desire to acquire a new pair of shoes, but it isn’t common for the entire industry to be in such a radical state of transition as it is right now. Designers are changing houses at a rapid clip, and the power peddlers are in perpetual flux. In this issue, we look at the socal-media influencers who stormed the shows a decade ago and have since emerged as an Establishment in their own right. (We also spend some time with Poppy, a confusingly alluring performer who could not have tasted fame in any age but this.) And as many industries enter a period of deep and difficult self-examination with regard to sex and (abuse of…

“MODELS ARE TREATED like shit. Are things still bad? Yes. In Paris, there was a big designer whose stylist was dying to have this girl, but she failed her health exam. So that stylist demanded the agency get that girl to another doctor who can pass her. I’m like: ‘Why are we doing this? Why would you do that to a girl?’ If you go to get a bank loan and go to buy a car, is there any reason that sex is on the table there? Do you have to have sex with your bank? No. So to be honest, it shouldn’t be there in fashion. I wish people would understand that. And just because people take highly sexualized pictures, just because some girl posed for an overly sexualized…

“FASHION’S COMPLICATED because the entire industry revolves around desirability and seduction. I think when you’re dealing with young models, there is the potential to have a lot of confusion because there are a lot of mixed signals and some people are going to exploit that situation. Plus modeling is such a strange industry because it’s not like if you work hard, you’ll be rewarded. In other jobs, if you work really hard, you will be rewarded; there’s an end goal, and if you put in enough effort and time and dedication, you’ll reach that end goal. That just doesn’t exist in modeling. It’s not a job for longevity, and the tricky thing about careers like that is, like, you never know how long you’ll still be working, and so your…

“I USED TO FIND it fascinating how the photographer might say something to the stylist, and I would notice how it affected the model who was standing on the other side of the room and heard what they were saying. It’s the clichéd story of the photographer or the stylist saying, ‘Those jeans make her look fat,’ and the model takes that upon herself. It comes across as a joke, but I tell my assistants when you have a model on set, you have to treat her like a human being. More often, they are treated like props or coat hangers. And let’s look at diversity. In the last five years, magazines have started to open up, but it’s a super-slow process. For a one-girl story for a magazine, I…

IT’S EASY TO confuse Tender Greens with rival Sweetgreen: Both are vegetable-forward and healthyish and backed by Danny Meyer (to some degree); both were born in the aughts. Tender Greens came first, having been founded in 2006 in L.A.’s Culver City by fine-dining fugitives looking to translate their experience into a replicable fast-casual (or, in their words, “fine-casual”) format. Since the beginning, this has meant square-meal plates (with choose-your-own sides) and sandwiches (like the new fried chicken, pictured) in addition to salads. At the 27th location and first in New York, which is equipped with a 16-seat chef ’s counter facing the open kitchen, sustainable seafood and whole-animal butchery dictate daily specials, and menu additions like a Luke’s lobster-tail salad and a Waldorf-inspired chicken salad replace Los Angeles staples like…

WHY NOT SIT in your mother’s basement and eat Cheetos and play video games and watch pornography?” Jordan Peterson asks me. For the record, he means it rhetorically, as the existential plight of modern man; my mother doesn’t even have a basement. We’re on the balcony of an Airbnb in a luxury loft in downtown Los Angeles, overlooking an unpopulated swimming pool. “That’s a perfectly valid question,” he says. “It’s certainly pleasurable, and not very onerous, moment to moment.” We’re roughly four uninterrupted minutes into the answer to my first question: What about this particular historical moment has made Peterson, a University of Toronto professor in L.A. to lecture to a sold-out crowd at the Orpheum Theatre, a sudden celebrity as the author of a best-selling new book, 12 Rules…

THE FIRST TIME Mary J. Blige saw herself onscreen in Mudbound, it made her cry. She’d become someone else, someone unrecognizable, yet—and she had to be told this at first—someone undeniably beautiful: Florence Jackson, a sharecropper’s wife in Jim Crow Mississippi who navigated the narrow path allowed for her life, seeing much but saying little. “The great surprise at Sundance was that people didn’t know it was her until the credits rolled,” says the film’s director, Dee Rees. And now Blige is up for an Academy Award for the portrayal, so different from that other character she’s spent 25 years creating and, in a way, hiding inside: the bling-armored, blonde-wigged, Grammy-laden “Queen of Hip-Hop Soul.” “I’m used to my nails now, and I’m addicted to lashes,” says Blige when we…

“DURING FASHION WEEK, you go to maybe ten to 15 go-sees a day, if you can make it. They’re crazy. All they ask of you is ‘How tall are you?’ ‘Give us your walk… What shows did you do last season?’ ‘Okay, great, thanks, bye.’ Nobody is there to ask, ‘How are you … Who are you?’ If you think of it like an interview for a job, you go into it laying everything out on the table about what you’ve done and what your experiences are, but with this, it’s really just about looking at your body. The only thing you can do is be appeasing and enthusiastic. And that’s where the power dynamic comes in, because girls just want to please whoever they are working with and to…

“I DO THINK PEOPLE in the industry are blind to the fact that you are staring at someone who is ill. A lot of girls that start out when they’re younger are really naturally thin. But then as you age, your body shifts, and so some girls who are trying to stay that thin do become anorexic. Really, there has to be help brought in when the pressures of the job are to be thin or they won’t cast certain shows, they won’t work, and when you see girls that have legs that are as thin as someone’s arm. There’s an eating disorder going on, and if people can’t admit that, then I think it’s bizarre, because everyone sees it, from the agent to the casting person to the photographer…

“MODELS ARE AT ONCE worshipped and treated as a replaceable commodity. Personally, I always disliked getting naked in front of a large group of people during Fashion Week. It’s one thing before the fashion show, but once the show is over and all the fashion community and press are coming to congratulate the designer and there are 20, 30 models hurrying to get dressed, I’ve always thought we need better protection there. Because the girls are literally naked around a bunch of strangers. But often young, new, and lesser-known models are made to feel they have to deal with madness and not stand up against mistreatment because they’ll be canceled or labeled difficult.”…

I MET THE GREAT ILLUSTRATOR ANTONIO Lopez in 1968, in the apartment he shared with Juan Ramos in one of the studios atop Carnegie Hall; their neighbor was Bill Cunningham, who started taking pictures when Antonio and the photographer David Montgomery gave him a camera. We’d get dinner around the corner at the Automat, or go dancing up in Harlem, jammed into a friend’s fancy car. On deadline for the New York Times or Vogue, Antonio would draw all night. Juan invented the background context and colored in the drawings. In the wonderful James Crump documentary that opens this fall, Antonio Lopez 1970: Sex Fashion & Disco, you see Antonio go into a kind of trance as he draws, pulling shapes out of the air. He drew better than anyone:…

IN AN INTERVIEW after his fall 2018 show, Demna Gvasalia, the current creative director at Balenciaga, told Dazed: “We live in a world that is full of references, and references exist to feed us, but not to feed us in order to copy—they feed us in order to create something new from it.” This season, that attitude was everywhere. The fashion audience has never been more sophisticated, and designers are having a blast mixing and mashing ideas—and mining our collective unconscious. 1. CARRIE BRADSHAW MEETS CARLTON MEETS PUNK ROCKER Rather than paying homage to archival BALENCIAGA pieces, as he’s done in the past, Demna Gvasalia was more interested in pulling from contemporary cultures this season. BALENCIAGA at 148 Mercer St. 1. A hoodie tied around the shoulders combines preppy culture…

DAVID SQUIRE, 53, Teacher, WASHINGTON, D.C. “I have four or five Filson vests. A couple of the Mackinaw jackets. And a few of the bags as well. I even visited the original Filson in Seattle last year.” KEVIN MALLORY 58, Sales CHICAGO CHARLIE REIGHARD, 25, Medical Student, NEW YORK “I’m looking for gloves. I have very poor circulation, I think, so I’ve been spending the morning at a few different shops trying some pairs out. I actually didn’t find a pair I liked.” PETER MARLEY, 29, Photographer, IRELAND “I’m in the props department on Game of Thrones, and this week we’ve been outdoors every single day. My Filson tin-cloth trousers and woolen vests have made it bearable.” PHILIP WILLERSLEV-OLSEN, 34, Economist, DENMARK “Before this, I…

An almond biscotto for dipping is baked in-house. The beauty of the bicerin is that when sipped through its cloud of cream , it unfolds in little waves of contrasting temperature and flavor: cool, warm, rich, tangy, sweet, bitter. A smooth medium-roast espresso doesn’t overwhelm or upstage the hot chocolate. Bittersweet Valrhona chocolate mixed with steamed milk is enhanced with a flick of sea salt. A soothing pour of hot chocolate on the bottom of the glass, a frothy float of espresso on top of the chocolate, and a cool cap of freshly whipped cream. That is the bicerin (pronounced bee-che-REEN), and if there is another booze-free elixir more capable of shaking off winter doldrums in a single sip, we don’t know about it. The…

UNLIKE STUFFING and cranberry sauce, sweet potatoes have a life after Thanksgiving, mostly owing to the lack of other local plant matter in the depths of a Northeast winter. But despite general ubiquity and excellent nutritional content, the roots have yet to attain chef-driven cult-veg status like kale or Brussels sprouts. There are signs of change, though, thanks to the advent of alternative varieties that are less sweet (and less orange) than what’s generally found sub-marshmallow. Japanese and Korean varieties, with their ruddy skin and pale flesh, are drier, with an almost chestnutty texture and flavor. Of the purple-hued roots, the Carolina-bred Stokes is violet both inside and out, while the Okinawan, which grows in Japan and Hawaii, conceals its distinctive hue behind a staid beige façade. This flashy spud…

“I’M GATHERING IDEAS,” says Erykah Badu over dinner at a vegan restaurant in Manhattan. “I’m uploading.” Badu, in a baggy sweater, oversize eyeglasses, and giant fedora, is talking about why she hasn’t released an album of new material since 2010’s New Amerykah Part Two—and why she isn’t particularly concerned about it. “I’ll download new ideas at some point.” Her old ones are still making the rounds: The R&B singer’s debut album, 1997’s Baduizm, is tentatively slated for reissue as a set of vinyl 45s, and Badu, who will turn 47 in February, performs live around the world eight months out of every year. We spoke with her about what the next year might hold. You’re one of the rare musicians who stay relevant with listeners younger than themselves. How much…

MANY CRITICS CONSIDER Thomas De Quincey’s Confessions of an English Opium-Eater, published in 1821, to be the first explicit exploration of the creative process and drugs. Since then—well, there have been a few more. Whether it’s booze (writers), heroin (rock stars), or cocaine (anyone with money), we’ve long associated, and romanticized the link between, intoxicants and artists’ careers, songs, novels, and films. The definitive heroin movie, for example— Trainspotting? Pulp Fiction? The Basketball Diaries?—is the familiar stuff of barstool debates. What we haven’t done is reckon with an ascendant crop of pharmaceuticals—some legal, some semi-legal, some illegal—that are now routinely referenced in works of art. From Xanax to Adderall to Percocet to the codeine-cough-syrup concoction “lean,” there’s a medicine cabinet’s worth of drugs that are influencing, inspiring, beguiling, and, in…

IN SNOWCAPPED DAVOS last month, Secretary of the Treasury Steven Mnuchin casually diverged from two decades of U.S. fiscal orthodoxy and accidentally tipped the value of the dollar further into a spiral with a single sentence. “Obviously,” he said, “a weaker dollar is good for us as it relates to trade and opportunities.” “It was distressing to me because it just shows a disregard for basic competence in governing,” said a former top economic official in Democratic administrations—referring specifically to the Treasury secretary’s not seeming to know he had any obligations beyond giving voice to his own personal preferences about things like, oh, say, monetary policy. That a weak dollar was not, actually, the policy goal of the government made it an obvious gaffe. But it was also a phenomenon…

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“FROM THE MOMENT you get a contract you are being stolen from. The contract says, ‘Get a lawyer.’ No one gets a lawyer. I have seen most models sign a contract in under four minutes. They look around the office, they see skyscrapers, they see pictures with famous photographers. What are their options? ‘Do I want to go back and spend my summer in my hometown? Or do I want to go to Milan and China and work with Calvin Klein and Bruce Weber, maybe buy Mum a house one day?’ What’s their negotiating position? So, okay, they sign. Models from outside the U.S., they need a work visa. The agency says, ‘We’ll sponsor you,’ but the model can’t understand the contract, so she starts, say, $3,700 in debt. For…

“I COULDN’T SLEEP the night before. I was like, I’m going to shoot with Bruce Weber, I’m going to shoot with Bruce, oh my gosh. Like my star could turn, I could take off from here. And everybody’s like, ‘Oh, you’re shooting with Bruce, that’s awesome.’ And then it happened, and then it was just like, What is happening? It was almost like an out-of-body experience. When I got back to my apartment, all the guys were there, and it’s almost like they all kind of knew. But no one wanted to talk about it. I thought for sure I’d take it to my grave. It’s been funny—since the lawsuit, there’s been a few photographers that have reached out to me, like, ‘Oh, you’re so brave, this is so awesome.…

SUDDENLY, FASHION PHOTOGRAPHY seems stale. But not just stale—also cruel. The recent allegations of sexual abuse by Bruce Weber and Mario Testino suggest that the tension that gives most fashion imagery its charge might come at a very human cost. This should have been obvious all along—just look at the images, suffused by a vernacular of degradation, pain, and suffering. As “casting couch” practices persisted in Hollywood, the idea that a model was a mirror for a photographer’s dark urges seemed too obvious to interrogate. Or perhaps too discomforting, given that our desires were reflected in those images. Objectification was the price of admission to a supposedly glamorous world. All along the fashion food chain, everybody benefited, so long as the models kept their silence. New York is inundated with…

BRYANBOY WAS feeling reflective. It was a cold, gray afternoon, and the fire in the drawing room of the Greenwich Hotel was cozy and warm. He ordered some tea and was touched by the smiling waitress who brought him a plate of cookies; whether or not he’d eat them was beside the point. He’d been recognized and appreciated, and that felt even nicer than the butteriest bite. Bryan, whose real last name is Yambao, has been a public fashion figure for about a decade, ever since the blog he started as an acne-scarred teenager in the Philippines went viral and Marc Jacobs cold-called him and, after convincing Bryan it wasn’t all a prank, explained that he’d be naming a bag after him and flying him to New York to sit…

“YOU CANNOT WEAR BIG glasses anymore. It’s all about tiny little glasses.” Thus decreed Kanye West in a recent email to Kim Kardashian. Noted: Rachel Zoe’s mid-aughts mega-frames are out; Neo’s micro-specs from The Matrix are in. Nicolas Ghesquière must agree, because at his Louis Vuitton spring show in Paris, among the lavishly embellished Louis XVI court jackets and silk running shorts, there were these metallic sunglasses ($735 at 1 E. 57th St., at Fifth Ave.; 212-758-8877). The whole show mixed history with futuristic fashion (amid medieval artifacts at the Louvre, models wore Stranger Things T-shirts), and the angular shades were no exception: The pointy 1950s-era cat’s-eye silhouette comes in an iPhone-like jet black or this sci-fi mirrored finish.…

IN AN ERA dominated by superheroes and sequels, the selections at the Sundance Film Festival were, refreshingly, distinguished by something else. For example: Mandy, the bonkers new film about a vengeful lumberjack, starring bonkers old Nicolas Cage, along with Andrea Riseborough; it’s one of four (!) films she appeared in at the festival. Also: fearless female directors like Jennifer Fox (who adapted her own story of sexual abuse in The Tale) and Debra Granik (who followed up her 2010 Winter’s Bone with the father-daughter story Leave No Trace). And: irreverent pleasures (Bo Burnham’s junior-high comedy Eighth Grade and the teen-revenge film Assassination Nation) and sharp satires (Sorry to Bother You, starring Lakeith Stanfield as a telemarketer who gets mixed up with Armie Hammer and some very well-endowed horse-human hybrids). In…

I’m Not Here This 2017 film, directed by Michelle Schumacher, chronicles the story of a man, played by J. K. Simmons, who spends his 60th birthday alone in his house, reflecting on a lifetime of painful memories. The film was warmly received after its debut at the Raindance festival in London. I’m Not There This 2007 film, directed by Todd Haynes, is an unconventional retelling of the life of Bob Dylan, with multiple actors (including Cate Blanchett and Heath Ledger) portraying Dylan. When asked in an interview if he liked the film, Dylan said, “Yeah, I thought it was all right.” I’m Still Here This 2010 hoax documentary, directed by Casey Affleck, purports to chronicle Joaquin Phoenix’s retirement from acting to pursue a career as a freestyle rapper. The film…