Innholdsfortegnelse for July / August 2024 i National Geographic Traveller (UK)

In 2023, I took an overland tour from Ladakh to Kashmir, leading a group of fellow photographers with my wife. During our journey, we took a back road to the village of Dah, one of four settlements of Brokpas near the India-Pakistan border. The isolated community claims to be descended from members of Alexander the Great’s army. Intrigued by their carefully preserved cultural heritage, we sought permission to photograph local families amid the village’s lush apple orchards. Here, Rigzin Angmo, a talented dancer who epitomised the warmth of the people we met, wears an ornate headdress adorned with an array of colourful wildflowers picked from the surrounding hills. mattbrandonphoto.com @mattbrandon…

Ireland’s first new national park in 26 years has just been unveiled, covering a scattering of sites along the Atlantic fringe of County Kerry, in the country’s south west. At 70,000 acres, Páirc Náisiúnta na Mara, Ciarraí (Kerry Seas National Park) is the largest of Ireland’s protected areas. It’s also the country’s first-ever marine national park, comprising large expanses out to sea, including wave-lashed islands that are home to a rich diversity of marine mammals and bird life. On land, a dozen-odd sites cover everything from white-sand beaches, heaths and blanket bog to 18thcentury Derrynane House, once home to national hero and statesman Daniel O’Connell. As yet, there are no specific park facilities, but most points of interest are already well-equipped for visitors and linked by the Wild Atlantic Way…

You hear Cali first, whether it’s the infectious anthems that spill from its cafes or the hypnotic pulse of its clubs. A short hop southwest from the Colombian capital, Bogotá, this tropical metropolis has been electrifying dance-lovers since Puerto Rican and Cuban musicians arrived via New York in the 1970s, mambo grooves in tow. Cultural cross-pollination has shaped its food scene, too. The city was founded by the Spanish in the 1530s and its vibrant gastronomy draws on European, African and Indigenous roots, a heritage showcased during August’s Petronio Álvarez music festival when Cali’s streets vibrate with Afro-Pacific percussion. In San Antonio, Cali’s oldest neighbourhood, aspiring salseros (salsa dancers) can perfect their skills with classes at SalsaPura, one of the city’s many dance schools. Put your moves into practice at…

For travellers, Denmark’s Jutland peninsula is often shorthand for Legoland in the town of Billund or, at a push, the lively city of Aarhus. However, Danes know that the farm, forest and fen of this region are the real treats — especially the Lake District Søhøjlandet in the centre. In 85sq miles of forest are some 50 freshwater lakes, many strung along the Gudenå River that cuts through the area. Jutland’s largest lake, Mos, is here, along with Julsø, Brassø and Borresø on the central 18-mile stretch that runs from the historic watermill at Klostermølle to Silkeborg town, Denmark’s so-called ‘outdoor capital’. While officially Denmark’s highest region, this area is still remarkably untroubled by gradients, with flat horizons in every direction and an active, easy living vibe. The airports at…

“Local craft ale was once a favourite, but ciders, particularly small-batch, are back,” says Greendale Farm Shop’s ruddy-cheeked Rich Jones, holding up a jerrycan labelled ‘Proper Job’. “It’s a Devon scrumpy made with our apples by Keith Hosein, an 80-year-old local farmer who still uses a hand crusher.” A Devon farm shop stocked with cider is no surprise, but what is astonishing is Greendale’s multitude of local goods, from veggies, cheese, meat and preserves to pastries, sourdough, ice cream and souvenirs. All are either produced on site or are West Country sourced, filling a giant barn and outbuildings akin to a rustic mall. “The shop started 15 years ago, selling farm eggs from a roadside shed,” says Rich. “But during Covid we really became a community hub and have grown…

Oakland Berkeley’s punk scene can trace its origins to neighbouring Oakland, the San Franciso Bay Area city where influential post-metal bands like Neurosis spawned in the late ’80s. Punks would squat in warehouses, which inspired tracks like Green Day’s Welcome to Paradise, about a teen leaving home to live in a slum. Today, venues like The Starry Plough and 7th West are still pulling in the punk crowds, while genres like reggae and jazz can be heard at The New Parish. thestarryplough.com 7thwest.com thenewparish.com San Diego The scene in San Diego is influenced by its punks, skaters and surfers — just ask local band Blink 182 — but in truth this is a diverse musical city. The city thrives in the warmer months — outdoor jazz festivals like Gator by…

“Venice reminds me of a beautiful island,” says Antonio Gonzalez, leaning against the bonnet as Mexican ranchera booms out of his truck’s radio. “Plus we’re close to the sea and we liked the song, so we called it La Isla Bonita.” Antonio, along with his wife, Maria, opened his Mexican food truck business in 1987, the same year Madonna released her single and shot the video here in Los Angeles. On this balmy afternoon, he has parked, as he does every day, on residential Rose Avenue, near Venice Beach. Antonio’s truck is in good company in the City of Angels. There are around 4,000 food trucks here, selling all sorts of meals on wheels — tacos, kebabs, dumplings, fried chicken, to name a few. But Mexican influences dominate the city’s…

The mountains “You froze time!” Fadi Hachicho is talking to a Harris’s hawk, but the bird has its head in the clouds. Caught in an updraft, it’s hovering on the wind high above us, still in the air, the sun playing on its russet feathers. When it flies on, it’s only to luxuriate in the thermals some more, circling in large, languid rings, flapping its wings only occasionally. Which makes it all the more surprising when it suddenly pivots, head to the scree below, and spirals twice before diving in one clean swoop. Fadi bursts into a laugh, high-pitched and unrestrained. “Now you’re just showing off.” Native to Mexico, Harris’s hawks are not the raptors you’d expect to see hunting in Ras Al Khaimah, the northernmost of the United Arab…

“The messengers of the gods!” It’s easy to guess guide Freddy Huaracha’s favourite bird. As he speaks about the Andean condor, his voice inflects, the tone rising and falling as if following a flight. His arms swing round, hugging the view of the valley around the trail, open large like these black vultures’ record wingspans. “The Inca considered them the embodiment of the upper world, the sky, the future,” he says, wide-eyed. “Today, they bring us good fortune: every year, more people come to visit.” Freddy is guiding me on a two-mile climb from the village of Madrigal to the ruins of the pre-Incan Chimpa Fortress, a fortified high ground at 14,475ft, which he says is the best place in the entire Colca Valley to spot these giant birds. This…

1 Chop a rib-eye steak super fine. Add it to the grill and let it get crispy; it cooks quickly, so it only needs about a minute on the fire. Fry up some chopped onions, too. 2 Add cheese on top of the meat and mix it in a little so it starts to melt into the steak. Some people add provolone cheese but, in my opinion, you can’t beat Cheese Whizz [processed cheese sauce]. It’s a creamy Philadelphia classic. 3 Pile the meat and cheese into the bread. The bread makes this dish. We have lots of great bakeries in the city, so getting hold of a soft Philly steak roll is easy, but if you’re cooking at home, a baguette works fine, too. 4 Serve peppers as an…

‘Allow me to state here how much I love Barcelona, an admirable city, a city full of life, intense, a port open to the past and future’ Architect Charles-Édouard Jeanneret, better known as Le Corbusier 8AM HIKE UP MOUNT TIBIDABO On the ungroomed slopes of the nearby Pyrenees, skiers talk of earning their turns; in Barcelona the same might be true of cocktails. Blow the cobwebs off the previous night’s indulgence, and set yourself up for another day of the same, with an invigorating, hourlong hike along the trails threaded through the foothills of Mount Tibidabo, which overlooks the city. Your target is the summit church, set, incongruously, amid a retro funfair. Depart on the trail that starts at the Tibidabo Funicular base station, then ride the train back to…

Sitting at the far northwestern point of North America, the largest state in the US takes its name from the language of the Unangan people — Alyeska meaning ‘great land’. This vast wilderness offers visitors the chance to explore unspoilt landscapes, elusive wildlife, abandoned islands and historic Indigenous sites. Discover its most remote corners on an expedition cruise along the breathtaking 930-mile Inside Passage coastal route and beyond. SCOUT FOR BEARS & WILDLIFE Brown bears are undoubtedly the superstars of Alaska’s animal kingdom, topping many visitors’ viewing lists. These awe-inspiring creatures stand up to seven feet tall, weigh around 700lb and lose up to a third of their bodyweight during winter hibernation. With more than 2,000 brown bears — the largest concentration in the world — Katmai National Park is…

Dylan McBurney Norway THE PHOTOGRAPHER SAID: Norway has always been a location where I wanted to go and shoot. It has everything from natural beauty and stunning wildlife to dramatic landscapes. When I had the opportunity to travel along the country’s coast and onto Svalbard with Hurtigruten, I was so excited about what I might be able to capture. This portfolio encompasses a range of images from landscape to aerial, and even wildlife photography. I feel these images offer an insight into the fascinating details the Arctic landscape has to offer. Instagram: @mcburneyphotography THE JUDGES SAID: A story that we overlooked at first, but kept getting drawn back to — a lovely mix of urban and natural environments, nature and people from a range of perspectives, all graded beautifully to…

Over the centuries, Belgium has been invaded by numerous European people — including the Romans, Vikings, Spanish, French, Germans and Dutch. The favourite ingredients and cooking techniques of the invaders were picked up by locals, who, by the Middle Ages, had developed a cuisine they could call their own. Our cuisine is still deeply rooted in medieval cookery. This influence of the Middle Ages, a time when Flemish culture was highly developed, can be seen in the way we use condiments, mustards, vinegars and dried fruits to obtain delicate balances of sweet and sour, or sweet and salty; in our use of fresh and dried fruits and nuts, particularly almonds, to enhance flavour and presentation. The spices we use so abundantly to season everything, from meats and vegetables to desserts…

When Edward Ndiritu joined Lewa Wildlife Conservancy in central Kenya, as a rhino monitor in 1997, poaching had already reduced the nation’s black rhino population from around 20,000 in 1970 to fewer than 400 in 1989. Driven by a fear that they might disappear completely, Edward worked his way up the ranks to become the head of Lewa’s anti-poaching unit. In 2015, his team’s community-minded approach won him the first Wildlife Ranger Award from conservation charity Tusk. Lewa’s rhino numbers are now on the rise, but the threat of poaching endures. What inspired you to become a ranger? I grew up in a village between Mount Kenya and the Aberdare Range, once a wildlife corridor for migratory elephants and black rhinos. During our daily walks to school, my friends and…

BRANDT BRØD Start the day at this modern waterside cafe in Silkeborg with crisp white, blue and red decor — tables go fast and by 10am, they’re full. Order a cinnamon snurre pastry or warm rolls and butter, and get inspired to join the bakery’s sourdough bread-making courses in the adjoining workshop. brandtbroed.dk DREWSENS SPISEHUS This buzzy cafe in Silkeborg’s old Town Hall has a breakfast and brunch menu serving everything from poke bowls to charcuterie and rye-bread toasties. From June to August, nab a table outside to watch jazz bands perform in the town square. spisehus.drewsens.com NY HATTENÆS This lake house hotel on the edge of Sikeborg offers views of Brassø, as well as breakfast spreads that include cheese platters and homemade pastries. Even if you’re not staying, enjoy…

THE ANGEL A waterfront Dartmouth spot run by former MasterChef: The Professionals finalist Elly Wentworth. She leads a young team delivering British cooking with international flavours, plus plenty of local fish, including roasted sea bass with turnip pickle, pak choi and smoked sea lettuce (pictured). Six-course tasting menu £95. theangeldartmouth.co.uk CAFE ODE Come for the ginger cake, stay for special-event supper clubs at this wood cabin-like hilltop cafe above the bay at Shaldon. Michel Roux-trained chef-owner Tim Bouget brings finesse to cafe dishes, like panko-breaded Brixham dayboat fish and mugs of coconut-rich curried green lentil dahl. Dishes £4-20. odetruefood.com THE BULLINN Hippie hilltop town Totnes has fast become a foodie hub. Since opening in 2019, The Bull Inn has led the charge with veg-centered, organic dishes like roast celeriac, skordalia,…

9AM: PICK UP A COFFEE IN BALBOA PARK Hilltop Balboa Park is just north of downtown San Diego and the perfect place to get your bearings. It’s home to 16 museums and other cultural institutions. Spend the morning walking some of the 65 miles of trails with a hot lavender chai in hand from Daniel’s Coffee cart. balboapark.org danielscoffeeonline.com 11AM: EXPLORE BARRIO LOGAN Barrio Logan, a neighbourhood of warehouses turned into galleries, taco joints and craft breweries, has deep Mexican and Chicano roots. This is reflected in the 80 murals splashed across the artsy district, depicting Aztec goddesses next to Frida Kahlo. Stroll the colourful streets and then swing by Bread & Salt, a former bakery turned into a community arts hub. breadandsaltsandiego.com 12PM: STOP FOR PASTA When Ciccia Osteria…

On Santo Antão, silence can strike like a blow. One minute you can be bouncing in the back of a growling pick-up, en route to hike the island’s serrated hills, the next, you’ve been deposited at the foot of a cliff, the taxi has faded from earshot and the world, and all its climatic fury, is muted. Spend any time on Santo Antão — Cape Verde’s northwesternmost and most mountainous isle — and you grow accustomed to a raucous soundtrack. Adrift in the Atlantic, 350-odd nautical miles off the West African coast, it’s part of a 10-island nation that is as rowdy as it is remote. There’s the thrashing of the ocean, all white fizz and fury. The relentless northeast trade winds, rattling the sugarcane and banana palms. And then…

A trip across Peru feels like passing through multiple countries and cultures merged into one. The topography is as diverse as it is dramatic; in just a few days, you can pass from the desert of the coastal lowlands to the saw-toothed, glacial peaks of the Andes Mountains and onwards to reach the emerald enclave of the world’s largest tropical rainforest. En route are thousands of 16th-century towns, Indigenous communities and archaeological sites, relics of ancient civilisations that have managed to capture the collective imagination like few others around the world. Chief among those civilisations is the Inca, a superpower that ruled in the 15th century from modern-day Ecuador in the north, down to the Chilean capital of Santiago. Itineraries for first-time visitors focus on the heart of their empire,…

8AM Linking the neighbourhoods of Miraflores and Barranco, the cliffside promenade of El Malécon has ocean views and bold statues by Peruvian sculptors. Head into café Maridá for an Andean cheese omelette and a cup of Peruvian coffee. instagram.com/maridacafe 10AM Take a 20-minute cab ride north to the Museo Larco to peruse its 50,000 pre-Columbian ceramics, curated in chronological galleries, including a collection of x-rated pottery. museolarco.org 1PM Return to Miraflores along the Metropolitano bus line for some of Lima’s best ceviche at La Mar Cebichería Peruana. It’s owned by chef Gastón Acurio, who’s often credited with having put Peruvian food on the global culinary map. lamarcebicheria.com 3PM Few cities contain a 1,600-year-old adobe pyramid surrounded by skyscrapers, making Huaca Pucllana — a ceremonial centre for the pre-Inca Lima Culture…

“Welcome to the original White House!” my tour guide Mijuel K Johnson enthuses, his arms outstretched like a conductor frozen in motion. We’re standing on historic ground, in the heart of Philadelphia’s leafy Independence National Historical Park. Looming beyond Mijuel’s shoulder is the terracotta facade of Independence Hall, known as the birthplace of the USA due to the Declaration of Independence having been signed here in 1776. Nearby, a queue of tourists are waiting to pay their respects at the small but mighty Liberty Bell, a longstanding symbol of USA freedom, first rung when the declaration was initially read to the public. Yet Mijuel, a young historian who leads The Black Journey walking tour, is quick to add that there are elements of the city’s past still being uncovered. “We’re…

Along the Passeig de Gràcia the tour groups flow, guidebooks in hand, smartphone cameras poised. The masters of modernista architecture crafted some of their greatest works on this elegant, tree-lined thoroughfare, which a century and a half ago led Barcelona from its congested medieval core into a new era of space, order and creativity. Antoni Gaudí’s wonderfully elaborate Casa Batlló, with its iridescent glass-mosaic facade, and sprawling, limestone-hewn Casa Milà are two of the biggest prizes. The properties stand out, as indeed they were intended to, commissioned by wealthy families in fits of early 20th-century one-upmanship. I’m in this affluent corner of the Eixample neighbourhood in search of artistry of a different sort. Away from the hedonism of some of its more downmarket spots, Barcelona takes its bar culture very…

Get in touch inbox@natgeotraveller.co.uk Have a query about subscriptions? Get in touch at natgeotraveller@subscription.co.uk or call 01858 438787 WIN A baselayer worth £120 Lightweight and breathable, the Nimsdai Baselayer is a unisex fleece from recordbreaking mountaineer Nirmal Purja’s new apparel line. It’s built with SPF 50 and UV protection, and wicks sweat away and controls odour through anti-microbial technology. Features include a long back skirting to prevent pack chaffing, a long chest zip for ventilation and face covering. nimsdaistore.com STAR LETTER Victory lap I wanted to say how inspirational your June 2024 issue (featuring the Paris cover story) was. This summer, my fiancé is competing in the Paris 2024 Olympic Games and we’ve got a huge group of family and friends coming out to support him. Many of them have…

Art Hotel Pallas Tartu is one of three European Capitals of Culture this year and events marking this will highlight its artistic heritage. The city flourished following the foundation of its main university in the 17th century, evolving into a hub for education and the arts. And, over the centuries, it has embraced its reputation as Estonia’s intellectual centre; it’s still home to the country’s Supreme Court and the Estonian National Museum. Drawing on the city’s cultural legacy, Art Pallas Hotel pays tribute to Estonia’s first art school, which occupied the hotel’s site from 1919 until 1944 but closed when Tartu found itself on the frontline of the Second World War. Now transformed into stylish boutique accommodation, the building pays tribute to the works of prominent Pallas Art School alumni…

The West Midlands county of Staffordshire was once a powerhouse of innovation, taking 18th-century Britain into a ground-breaking future with its nascent pottery, glass, iron, coal and brewing industries. The powerhouse tag may no longer quite ring true but the heritage remains, with its canal system just one welcome leftover from the period. The overall impression these days is decidedly more rural than industrial. The moorlands and dales of the Peak District extend into its northeastern fringes, while gentle valleys and hills, punctuated by stone-built villages, define much of the region elsewhere. Near the centre of England, it’s a good location for a short break; come for easy activities, unique accommodation and a smattering of that industrial heritage. How should I spend my time? The Caldon Canal, which once served…

I went to Finland in search of wilderness. I wasn’t naïve. I knew that there’s nowhere left in Europe untouched by human hand. Even so, I believed I might find a place where people were outsiders: a presence in the ecosystem, perhaps, but an unimportant one. One week later, and my view had changed. For it was there, in the country that birthed Nokia and the Moomins, that I first understood the place of humans in the wild. From Helsinki, I travelled some 310 miles northeast by train to a region called North Karelia, on the Russian border. It was October, and winter would soon whiten the landscape with snow, but, for now, the scenes that sped by were a blur of brown and evergreen. I’d arranged to see the…

ENVIRONMENT The last flower at the top of the world — and the perilous journey to reach it Scientists have found ingenious flora on a stretch of gravel off the coast of Greenland, the farthest north you can go and still walk on land. natgeo.com/environment SCIENCE Is flavour really just an illusion? A unifying definition of what flavour is continues to escape those who study it. The only thing scientists agree on is what it is not — but it comes down to a series of tricks your brain plays on you. natgeo.com/science HISTORY A colourful history of red lipstick A symbol of opulence or a sign of witchcraft? From its early use by sex workers in ancient Greece to its place as a symbol of glamour, lipstick has long…

SILKEBORG MUSEUM This 18th-century mansion museum is full of history, but the Tollund Man is the big draw. The perfectly preserved Iron Age corpse was found in the Bjældskovdal bog just outside Silkeborg in 1950. It feels almost intrusive to gaze at Tollund Man’s inadvertent time travel, but nevertheless, you’ll find it hard to look away. museumsilkeborg.dk JORN MUSEUM Expressionist Asger Jorn left 5,000 works to his home town of Silkeborg, with pieces from bold abstract paintings to tapestry housed in this modern space. Jorn believed everyone could make art and a lively programme of art workshops pays homage to his wishes. museumjorn.dk MEMPHIS MUSEUM This replica Graceland in the fjord city of Randers is a homage to Elvis by superfan Henrick Knudsen, who’s collected memorabilia since childhood. Spot him…

1 THUNDER & LIGHTNING A preternaturally creamy ice cream from the UK’s first carbon-neutral farm. It’s made using an old recipe from the family’s grandma and contains honeycomb and clotted cream from Langage’s Jersey herd. langagefarm.com 2 CHILLI JAM The signature fiery-sweet condiment from long-established South Devon Chilli Farm, whose impressive seed-growing set-up is fast expanding since Amrit and Jenny Madhoo took over in 2022. southdevonchillifarm.co.uk 3 BLACK FOOT CHARCUTERIE Buttery, gamey air-dried ham, capicola, salami and nduja are made from Iberian pigs raised on organic pastures at 500-acre Fowlescombe Farm. rareandpasture.com 4 SINGLE MALT Dartmoor Whisky’s remarkable English single malts are made with Dartmoor spring water in bourbon, sherry and Bordeaux casks. Book tastings among the copper stills in the Victorian grandeur of Bovey Tracey’s former town hall. dartmoorwhiskydistillery.co.uk…

Huntington Beach There’s a good reason why Huntington Beach, tucked between LA and San Diego, was officially crowned Surf City USA. Home to one of the most celebrated beaches on the stretch, it offers the quintessential SoCal experience, with an ever-present shoal of surfers bobbing in the sea, against a backdrop of free-spirited cafes and RV camps catering to the laid-back, rubber-suited crowd. This 8.5-mile stretch is a magnet for both first-time and experienced surfers, drawn by its rich heritage as one of the original surf hotspots of the 1950s, and consistently near-perfect breaks. It’s a fail-safe year-round destination, but gets very busy during the summer, so head north of the pier if you want to unfurl your towel in peace. Boards and wetsuits can be rented locally at places…

Berkeley, best known for its genteel university campus, was perhaps not the most obvious place for a punk rock revolution. The coastal city, just across the bay from San Francisco, has in fact long held a rebellious spirit, perhaps most notably along central Telegraph Avenue in the 1960s and ’70s — back then, it was a bohemian boulevard of hippies, free-speech activists and anti-war protesters. It was here, among the galleries, theatres and boutiques, that the spirit of punk emerged. Today, the 4.5-mile avenue runs like an artery of punk music. From the University of California’s Berkeley campus (UC Berkeley) all the way to the city of Oakland to the south, you can find old-school music shops like Rasputin sitting alongside thrift stores, burger joints and the Bay Area’s largest…

Madonna Inn, San Luis Obispo This larger-than-life motel ticks all the boxes: themed rooms housing treasured relics of Americana; a colour palette dominated by Barbie pink; floral shagpile; Disney-esque turrets; fuchsia tennis courts; and gold chandeliers. Sitting at the midway point between San Francisco and LA, a short drive from downtown San Luis Obispo and its surrounding wineries, it has attained cult status for its design since it opened in 1958, courtesy of owners Phyllis and Alex Madonna. With seemingly more stage sets than a Hollywood backlot, this maximalist motel has 110 themed rooms in all, no two of which are alike. The Yahoo Room has a bed atop a wagon; the Caveman Room is swathed in rock with decorative clubs; and the Matterhorn Room features a vintage cow bell…

Eight countries lay claim to tracts of the globe’s largest tropical rainforest, but Peru’s well-developed infrastructure makes the experience here one of the best for visitors. A popular entry point is Puerto Maldonado city in Peru’s Madre de Dios region, one hour by plane from Cusco. Accommodation in this area spans rustic, family-run lodges to high-end hotels, most providing meals and daily excursions on foot or by boat. Options often include outings to clay licks frequented by scarlet macaws or daytime and nocturnal jungle walks, where the lucky might spot two- and three-toed sloths and harpy eagles. Lodges within a 30-minute boat ride of the fringes of Reserva Nacional Tambopata are a good option for visitors short on time. With more days to spare, it’s worth heading to 28-room Tambopata…

1 FOR CINEMA LOVERS The popular Yo, Philly! Rocky Film Tour is led by heavyweight guide Mike Kunda, the city’s most devoted Rocky impersonator. The three-hour tour takes in various filming highlights and has even been endorsed by Sylvester Stallone himself. theyophillyfilmtour.com 2 FOR HISTORY BUFFS Take a deep dive into Philadelphia’s storied past as the birthplace of the USA with this 75-minute Constitutional Walking Tour. Covering just over a mile, the tour takes in over 20 significant sites, including the Liberty Bell and Independence Hall. theconstitutional.com 3 FOR A NEW PERSPECTIVE Built on the meeting point of two large rivers, the Schuylkill and the Delaware, Philadelphia has a rich maritime history. See the bright lights of the city from a different angle with a one-hour sunset cruise on the…

3 The number of audience members who fit into the festival’s smallest venue: the Laughing Horse chicken coop, in the garden of The Pear Tree pub 200 The estimated number of global fringe festivals inspired by the Edinburgh Festival Fringe, providing stages to unrepresented artists 67 THE NUMBER OF COUNTRIES REPRESENTED AT THE 2023 FESTIVAL, WHICH SAW MORE THAN 3,000 SHOWS HOSTED ACROSS 288 VENUES 2,445,609 The number of tickets issued for shows across the Edinburgh Fringe Festival in 2023 304 THE NUMBER OF SHOWS ATTENDED IN ONE FESTIVAL SEASON — A WORLD RECORD ACHIEVED BY DAVID CHAPPLE, FROM CORNWALL, IN 2014 A COMEDIC HISTORY 1947 Eight theatre groups arrive at the Edinburgh International Festival to perform uninvited, spurring an industry shake-up 1958 The Fringe Festival Society is formed to…