Innholdsfortegnelse for June 2024 i National Geographic Traveller (UK)

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC Editorial Director: Editorial Director: Maria Pieri Editor: Pat Riddell Deputy Editor: Amanda Canning Commissioning Editors: Maria Pieri Lorna Parkes, Georgia Stephens Assistant Editors: Sam Kemp, Angela Locatelli Senior Editor: Sarah Barrell Executive Editor: Glen Mutel Associate Editor: Nicola Trup Content Strategist: Berkok Yüksel Deputy Digital Editor: Karlina Valeiko Art Director: Becky Redman Deputy Art Director: Lauren Atkinson-Smith Art Editors: Lauren Gamp, Kelly McKenna Senior Designers: Rosie Klein, Dean Reynolds Designer: Tully D’Souza Junior Designer: Natalie Cornelius Picture Editor: Ben Rowe Picture Researcher: Aisha Nazar Branded Content Manager: Flora Neighbour Deputy Branded Content Manager: Megan Hughes Senior Editor, Branded Content: Sara Crossley Project Editors: Zane Henry, Emma Monk, Farida Zeynalova, Charlotte Wigram-Evans Deputy Project Editor: Sacha Scoging Chief Sub-Editor: Olivia McLearon Senior Sub-Editor: Hannah Doherty Sub-Editors: Rory Goulding, Chris…

WHAT’S NEW • FOOD • WHERE TO STAY • FAMILY • INSIDE GUIDE • UK BREAK • BOOKS • KIT LIST In Antwerp’s busy port district, I turned a corner and promptly bumped into several Handlebars, an Alaskan Whaler and a Dali chatting with a Van Dyke. It was a meeting of the Antwerp Moustache Club, or ‘Snorrenclub’, which had spilled out of Cafe Batavier and onto the cobblestoned quay overlooking Museum aan de Stroom. These glorious whiskers were introduced to me by their owner, brewer and club member Luc Dierckx, who won a second place at the World Beard and Moustache Championships 2019 for his deceptively compact Imperial moustache. The biennial competition, which includes ‘Ladies’ categories, will be hosted in Blackpool in 2027. Pogonophobics need not apply. MARK PARREN…

On the southern tip of Vancouver Island, sailboats bob in Victoria’s harbour and chateau-style buildings stand beside leafy parks. The gentle pace of life in British Columbia’s compact capital is part of its appeal, yet it’s far from a provincial backwater. An easy journey from Vancouver, the city has excellent neighbourhood restaurants, breweries and coffee shops, while its museums and galleries showcase the region’s Indigenous heritage. It’s also surrounded by wild landscapes and makes a natural jumping-off point for whale-watching. Presiding over the harbour, the British Columbia Parliament Buildings are the city’s centrepiece, an 1890s icon whose marbled interiors are open for free daytime tours. Across the street, the Fairmont Empress is one of Canada’s grandest hotels, with Elizabeth II and Rudyard Kipling among its storied guests. Afternoon tea in…

Fiction: The Summer We Crossed Europe in the Rain From Nobel Prize-winner Kazuo Ishiguro comes this collection of song lyrics he wrote for American jazz singer Stacey Kent, about a bittersweet journey made by a couple across Europe. The result is a love poem, of sorts, conjuring the romance of European rail journeys in an atmospheric fictional travelogue. Faber, £17.99 Culture: The Art Lover’s Guide to Barcelona Travel and culture writer Ruby Boukabou maps out the Spanish city for art lovers. Along with itineraries following in the footsteps of native masters Picasso, Miró and Dalí, expect tips on how to get the best out of the city’s galleries, and listings on everything from self-guided street-art tours to art classes. White Owl, £14.99 History: Cypria: A Journey to the Heart of…

“I’ve been here 40 years,” says Satinder Singh. “Everyone wants a glass of sweet, salty nimbu pani.” Standing in the baking sun at Satinder’s street stall in South Mumbai’s historic Fort neighbourhood, his rehydrating lime soda cannot come quickly enough. I’m touring the downtown Colaba area with Pooja Madan Kathuria, a guide of nine years who was born and raised in Mumbai. We’re on the Bombay (as the city is still known by many) Express walking route arranged by A Chef’s Tour, a company specialising in group and private street food tours around Asia. “People are often sceptical about street food,” says Pooja. “And most do this tour on their last day. They should do it on their first.” I couldn’t agree more. Street food is a defining feature of…

Isabella Noble Hiking in the northern half of Lanzarote always means an exciting new discovery, whether that’s a secret valley dotted with palms, a view across the cascading Risco de Famara cliffs or a rocky coastal trail leading to a natural pool. LANZAROTE P.44 Meera Dattani Mumbai may be restaurant central, but it’s the street food wallahs that give the city its energy. My favourite memory will always be standing on a street corner munching on crunchy bhel poori, then sipping masala chai from a tiny cup. MUMBAI P.50 Shafik Meghji An underrated city set between the Andes and the hills of the Cordillera de la Costa, Santiago is a vast patchwork of distinctive barrios, its diversity reflected in the Chilean capital’s eclectic selection of hotels, guest houses and B&Bs.…

Due to its fertile land, 140 miles of coastline and position at the heart of the Middle East, Lebanon has a cuisine that’s been shaped by traders, conquerors and colonisers. The Phoenicians shared their love of seafood, the Romans established olive groves and vineyards, the Ottomans brought barbecues. More recently, Lebanon was a colony of the French, who left their mark on the table with delicate pastries and haute-cuisine techniques. Lebanon’s neighbours have been equally significant. The country is bordered by the Mediterranean Sea to the west, Syria to the north and east and Israel to the south. Similar influences seep into food across the region, and many dishes served in homes in Lebanon also pop up in nearby countries — though each with its own regional twist. Lebanese home…

Bannau Brycheiniog, Wales Just south of Bannau Brycheiniog (Brecon Beacons) National Park, BikePark Wales has over 40 mountain bike trails slaloming down 1,200 acres of forested hillside. The park’s new ‘Ticket to Ride’, launched this Easter to run in school holidays, includes bike and kit hire plus four hours on beginner level runs. Beyond the park, families can try several other paths, such as the waterside Taff Trail from Brecon to Brynich Lock. bikeparkwales.com CYCLING LEVEL: BikePark Wales tracks cater for every level. Lake Constance, Germany & Switzerland Dotted with lidos along its German and Swiss sections, the Lake Constance Cycle Path is suitable for hauling toddlers along in bike trailers. It passes through idyllic lakeside towns against a backdrop of Alpine peaks; tour operator Freedom Treks offers an itinerary…

1 OSPREY FAIRVIEW TREK 50L BACKPACK Made from tough recycled nylon, this backpack is engineered to sit ergonomically on a female frame. The taut mesh backpanel offers ventilation while keeping weight off the spine — great for avoiding body strain if you’re spending long stretches on your feet. Osprey’s Fairpoint backpack is available for male frames. £220. osprey.com 2 GRAYL GEOPRESS WATER PURIFIER WATER BOTTLE It takes this 710ml bottle eight seconds to eliminate viruses, bacteria, heavy metals, pesticides, microplastics and more from any water source, be it a hotel tap or a murky river. At 450g, it’s not the lightest option on the market, but the filter — activated by pressing the lid — is easy to use even while wearing gloves. £100. grayl.co.uk 3 LIFESYSTEMS ADVENTURE FIRST AID…

When 27-year-old Sumitra Acharya took on a job as a trekking porter in 2019, she had a mountain to climb. With Nepal’s outdoor industry a male-dominated field, she defied societal expectations, carrying 15kg loads of clothing, supplies, sleeping bags and more for some 10 miles a day to ease the burden for visiting mountaineers. Five years on, she’s leading expeditions to Everest Base Camp and Annapurna — and, she hopes, inspiring other Nepalese women to reach for new heights. Where does your passion for the outdoors come from? I always wanted to do solo backpacking trips, but I didn’t do any exploring until I was 20. I was born in a rural community in Sindhupalchok district, northeast of Kathmandu, but raised in a city in the Kathmandu Valley. There are…

ITINERARY ONE 1. Forsinard Flows 2. Skara Brae 3. Kirkwall 4. Scapa Flow 5. Old Man of Hoy Start point: Inverness • End point: Inverness Distance travelled: 374 miles • Average length: 7 days Orkney is unlike anywhere else in Scotland. That’s partly down to its history: it was under Norwegian and Danish control for hundreds of years until the 15th century, and many Orcadians still claim Scandinavian ancestry. It’s also down to its location, across the Pentland Firth from Scotland’s northeast tip, with the largest town, Kirkwall, standing more than 200 miles north of Edinburgh. Despite feeling far removed, it’s just 90 minutes by ferry from the Scottish mainland. By renting a car and using Inverness as your start and end point, you can easily combine exploring Orkney with…

Busan has transformed into a lively modern metropolis — a centre for commerce, culture and technology, having once had a reputation for being a rough-and-tumble maritime hub. Pockets of the old port town, however, still remain thriving neighbourhoods where the past rubs shoulders with the bright, shiny and new. From colourful hillside villages to bustling beachside strips, each of Busan’s local districts offer its own unique flavour and a window into what makes the city tick. Combine this with fresh seafood and an emerging restaurant and bar scene, and it’s no wonder people are starting to take notice. Here are four of the city’s most exciting districts. 1 HAEUNDAE Haeundae is a district synonymous with its beach, a mile-long stretch of sand where travellers can experience the tranquillity of the…

THE EXPERTS When’s the best time to see the Great Migration, and are there safaris focused on the spectacle? Imagine a horizon filled with hooves, horns and hair. The sights and sounds of some two million wildebeest travelling across the East African plains make the Great Migration one of the most impressive wildlife events on the planet. Driven by the search for fertile grassland — and invariably joined by legions of zebras, gazelles and other ungulates — these colossal herds undergo a perilous annual circuit that leads them clockwise through Tanzania’s Serengeti and Kenya’s adjoining Masai Mara. For many safari-goers, the highlights are the mass crossings of the Grumeti River (usually in May or June) and the Mara River (typically in August, with a return crossing in October), where the…

It won’t have escaped your attention that Paris is hosting the Summer Olympics in just a matter of weeks. And while it might be a little late to get the best tickets to watch the games, there’s always plenty more to discover in the City of Light. Thanks to our close proximity and the added benefit of the Eurostar link, the ease of popping over (or under?) the Channel means many of us are more familiar with the French capital than we are with some British cities. Of course, while the quintessential Parisian experiences — the museums, the galleries, the shops — are often indoors, it’s those more exposed to the elements that we focus on this issue. From electric car, bike and boat tours to al fresco pools, beaches…

Vibe Hotel Adelaide Adelaide has discovered a fresh sense of energy and drive in recent years, shaking off its reputation as a sedate country capital. As well as expanding its laneway scene of bars and restaurants, it’s welcomed a raft of cool, designfriendly digs — all of which are helping to narrow the gap between Adelaide and the big-hitting cities of Sydney and Melbourne. A standout hotel is Vibe, the fourth address by the homegrown hotel group known for its affordable yet stylish properties. Opened last year in the East End of the CBD (Central Business District), it occupies an 18-storey glass-fronted structure by the Adelaide Parklands, a green belt encircling the inner city. This urban-meets-nature setting is reflected in the 123 guest rooms, which blend wall-to-wall windows and raw…

Mention Flintshire to most people and they might struggle to pinpoint it on a map. The county sits just on the Welsh side of the border with England, with Liverpool to the east and the mountains of Eyri (Snowdonia) to the west. It’s a place of quiet beauty, where small villages punctuate rolling farmland and you’ll likely get stuck behind a tractor if you spend more than 10 minutes on the road. Heather-clad hills along the Clwydian Range and broad, windswept beaches to the north provide some drama. Fans of country strolls, sustained by a pint and a pie in a local pub, will find plenty of appeal here. Close to the English border is the Hawarden Estate, the former home of William Gladstone, who served as prime minister to…

France’s most intriguing regional foods often come with a story to tell. In the south west, for example, cassoulet was created under siege during the Hundred Years War. The Paris-Brest patisserie commemorates a bicycle race, and roquefort cheese was supposedly created by a love-struck shepherd. Delve a little deeper into the French food landscape, as I did while researching my book, and you’ll find stories that go beyond legend and yarn, such as Île de Noirmoutier’s claim to be home of the world’s most expensive potatoes. This superlative spud seemed an ideal excuse to visit the island off France’s west coast, patchworked with salt pans and populated with whitewashed villages. Bonnottes, as they’re called, are a rarity. In season just two or three weeks in May, they must be harvested…

The easternmost of Spain’s Canary Islands, off the south coast of Morocco, Lanzarote is defined by its natural drama. Eerily beautiful volcanic peaks, wind-lashed cliffs and vineyards of ashen soil give way to a rocky, lavashaped coastline sprinkled with natural pools and deep-gold beaches. The island is protected by UNESCO as both a Biosphere Reserve and a Geopark, and it’s in the wild north that all this natural beauty shines brightest.  It’s impossible to fully grasp modern Lanzarote’s identity without understanding the huge influence of celebrated 20th-century local artist and environmental campaigner César Manrique, who played a major role in keeping the island’s development sensitive. The handful of tourism-driven beach resorts that many associate with Lanzarote make up just a small part of the island — mostly in the south.…

1 STREET LIFE Go electric on a classic city tour With its sights set on banning fossil fuel cars by 2030, Paris is embracing electric vehicles — and you can take one for a spin around the capital’s landmarks. Words: Georgia Stephens Vintage cars, with vintage engines, typically have a lot to say: they grumble around corners, groan up hills and continue to mutter to themselves even when they’ve come to a stop. But this one isn’t like the others. The white-andblue Renault 4L, which rolled off the factory floor in 1955, should be as talkative as the rest of her kind. Yet, all I can hear as we stop at a red light between the honey-coloured apartments of the 8th arrondissement are wafts of French radio, blowing in through…

Life has flourished for centuries in Algeria’s Saharan oases — home to some of North Africa’s most striking architecture. One of the most rewarding to visit is Timimoun, located in the north on the shores of an immense sand sea of over 23,000sq miles. It’s nicknamed La Rouge (‘the red’) for its ochre-red mud-brick buildings — a colour some locals believe represents blood, and by extension their sense of belonging in the desert. Further north, in the M’Zab Valley, lies a chain of five ksour (fortified towns) with distinctive pastel-coloured dwellings. These citadels have been recognised by UNESCO for their ‘exceedingly original architecture’ and for conserving ‘practically the same way of life and the same building techniques since the 11th century’. Eighty percent of Algeria is desert, but contrary to…

WHAT SETS SINGLE MALT SCOTCH WHISKY APART? A single malt Scotch whisky is distilled at a single distillery, while a blended Scotch is a combination of whiskies coming from at least two different distilleries. A single malt’s style differs from one distillery to another, as each have specific characters. WHAT’S UNIQUE ABOUT SCAPA WHISKY? Scapa is an artisanal single malt forged by the elements of Orkney. Water from the Orquil Springs is used for the mashing, and our rugged climate means less spirit is lost to evaporation — the legendary ‘angel’s share’ that normally claims roughly 2% of every batch. The result is smooth and honeyed, which is a surprising tasting profile for an island malt. Our distillery is the second-mostnortherly in Scotland, as well as one of the last…

1 SKYE Dramatic mountains, some of Scotland’s leading restaurants and ease of access from the mainland via a road bridge combine to make Skye a wildly popular destination. It’s best to avoid peak season and visit in spring or autumn, for hikes to the Old Man of Storr basalt outcrop and along the water’s edge at the Fairy Pools. Don’t miss dinner at The Three Chimneys, a much-loved lochside restaurant that’s been showing off the island’s fresh produce since 1985. threechimneys.co.uk 2 MULL The second-largest island in the Inner Hebrides, Mull is just 45 minutes by ferry from Oban on the mainland. Spend some time here exploring the colourful town of Tobermory and remote sandy beaches. Mull is also the jumpingoff point for trips to neighbouring Iona’s historic abbey and…

For decades, the gap year recipe remained virtually unchanged: cheap hostels, all-night parties, banana pancakes and months spent ‘finding yourself’. Throw in some bungee jumping, quad biking and moped riding, along with days doing not very much, and you quickly paint the stereotypical picture of the fabled ‘year out’ of old. The gap year travellers of today, though, are far more likely to be found doing sunrise yoga on a beach before a day of volunteering. Evenings are less about getting blind drunk and more about sitting around a campfire, herbal tea bubbling away on a stove, discussing the day’s work. Once synonymous with those taking a break between A-levels and university, or after a degree, the gap year has evolved into a catch-all that includes anyone seeking an escape…