Innholdsfortegnelse for October 2023 i National Geographic Traveller (UK)

Editorial Director: Maria Pieri Editor: Pat Riddell Managing Editor: Amelia Duggan Deputy Editor: Amanda Canning Commissioning Editors: Lorna Parkes, Georgia Stephens Assistant Editors: Sam Kemp, Angela Locatelli Senior Editor: Sarah Barrell Executive Editor: Glen Mutel Associate Editor: Nicola Trup Content Strategist: Berkok Yüksel Deputy Digital Editor: Karlina Valeiko Art Director: Becky Redman Deputy Art Director: Lauren Atkinson-Smith Art Editor: Lauren Gamp Senior Designers: Kelly McKenna, Dean Reynolds Designer: Rosie Klein Junior Designer: Natalie Cornelius Picture Editor: Ben Rowe Picture Researcher: Aisha Nazar Branded Content Manager: Flora Neighbour Deputy Branded Content Manager: Megan Hughes Project Editors: Rory Goulding, Zane Henry, Emma Monk, Farida Zeynalova Assistant Project Editor: Sacha Scoging Head of Sub Editors: Olivia McLearon Senior Sub Editor: Hannah Doherty Sub Editors: Chris Horton, Ben Murray, Victoria Smith Editorial Intern: Jordan…

Dilshoda Ekhsonova Khodjaeva, Tashkent, Uzbekistan The Tashkent Metro is often described as the world’s most elaborately decorated subway system. Each station has its own theme, showcasing elements of the history, industry and agriculture of Uzbekistan, with beautiful artwork to match. At Kosmonavtlar station, which is dedicated to Soviet-era space exploration, I met Dilshoda, who told me she’d been working in the Metro for three years. Her dedication to her duties meant I didn’t have much time to capture her portrait, but between trains I managed a few frames — one with just a hint of a smile — before she got back to business. RICHARD JAMES TAYLOR • PHOTOGRAPHER richardjamestaylor.com @richardjamestaylor…

A moonscape of volcanic craters, lava fields and belching thermal pools, northern Iceland is as starkly elemental as the country gets. The region has remained little known to UK visitors, partly due to its remoteness — until now, reaching it usually meant a five-hour drive from the capital Reykjavík or a 40-minute connecting flight. This stretch of the country’s wild coast is coming into the limelight this autumn thanks to scheduled direct flights with EasyJet, set to take off on 31 October. Operating on Tuesdays and Saturdays, the long-awaited service will link Gatwick to Iceland’s second city of Akureyri in two and a half hours, bringing visitors to the doorstep of Laufás’s turf-roofed houses and the edge of the mighty waterfall of Goðafoss. Tour operator Discover the World has also…

No 42 by GuestHouse Margate doesn’t stay still for long. A streak of seaside nostalgia runs through the Kent town, but this is a place with its focus squarely on the future. Take Dreamland, a retro-themed pleasure park that draws visitors to its vintage carousel and scenic railway (Britain’s oldest roller coaster) as much as its Pride celebrations and a newly installed Banksy mural. Around the bay, modern art exhibitions rotate through the Turner Contemporary gallery, while kids play with buckets and spades on the beach in its shadow. New openings butt up against the resort’s kiss-me-quick attractions, and nowhere is this more apparent than along the seafront. Amusement arcades and shops selling inflatables squeeze in between microbreweries and cocktail bars, and restaurants serve both cod and chips and miso-battered…

HISTORY What really caused the collapse of the Maya civilisation? Power struggles? Overpopulation? Drought? Whatever happened to the Maya remains a mystery — though clues can be found deep in the Central American jungle. natgeo.com/history ENVIRONMENT Iceland has entered a new volcanic era The country’s volcanic peninsula has been dormant for centuries, but experts say the tectonic shifts behind recent earthquakes and eruptions have been a long time coming. natgeo.com/environment ANIMALS How Niassa Special Reserve gives locals a stake in its success In Mozambique, one of Africa’s largest wildernesses is thriving. Here, people revere baboons, birds guide honey hunters and elephants are making a comeback. natgeo.com/animals…

UMBRELLA MAKING CENTRE Among northern Thailand’s most iconic accessories, colourful paper parasols were once used by the well-to-do in the ancient Lanna Kingdom. Today, they’re a common local decoration and a favourite night market souvenir for travellers. Craftspeople have been making these delicate umbrellas for more than 200 years and, at this centre in Bo Sang village, a 30-minute drive from Chiang Mai, travellers can watch artisans at work or paint and decorate their own parasols to take home. From 200 TH (£4.50). handmade-umbrella.com INCLAY STUDIO As well as hosting studio sessions for fans, local ceramicist Jirawong Wongtrangan produces made-to-order art and homewares for Chiang Mai hotels, restaurants and collectors. Jirawong’s work is inspired by the area’s mountainous landscape and draws on the earthy palette found in local clay deposits:…

Fourfrogs with violins gather beneath a window to serenade another frog in a dress. You don’t see that every day. Nor a frog being shaved in a barber’s shop. “People are so obsessed with technology, it can be tough to get them interested in frogs,” says my guide Marina Bitunjac, as we ponder a scene in which one of the amphibious creatures balances a boot on his nose. You’ll find 507 such stuffed frogs in Split’s Froggyland, arranged in a series of tableaux by taxidermist Ferenc Mere in the early 1900s. The various scenes on display include court cases, sporting contests and school lessons. One is titled ‘Construction work on a holiday home’ and features frog bricklayers, roofers and a site manager taking a pee behind a wall. Exhibits are…

You wouldn’t know it from the sea of skyscrapers hemmed in by traffic-clogged freeways. Or from the flashy Hollywood studios, the multi-million-dollar celebrity homes or the Dior parading down Rodeo Drive. But a little over 200 years ago, Los Angeles was a wilderness, just sea and mountains and big sky. Back then, what’s now considered the quintessential US city wasn’t even in America, but in Mexico. “In 1781, 44 settlers moved to this area from New Spain, further south,” explains Edgar Garcia, as we wander through El Pueblo on a sunny morning. A couple of blocks bookended by Downtown’s office buildings and grand Union Station, sandwiched between Chinatown and Little Tokyo, this small district is the oldest part of LA. It’s where the global metropolis was born. Now protected, the…

THE EXPERTS Sarah Barrell Senior editor, Food by National Geographic Traveller (UK) Gemma Bowes Travel writer and editor Ben Clatworthy Transport correspondent, The Times Camilla Hewitt Editor, Well Curated magazine Laura Lindsay Travel expert, Skyscanner I’d like to go on a European city break with my two kids over October half-term. Where’s reasonably priced? Post Office Travel Money regularly crowns Lisbon as Europe’s cheapest city break. Set around seven hills, the Portuguese capital has trams and cliff-scaling lifts to excite young transport buffs, with miradouros (viewpoints) to stop at for fresh orange juice and strong coffee. Sprawled across one of these hills is Castelo de São Jorge, with views of Ponte 25 de Abril astride the River Tagus. Or see the bridge up close on the ferry from Cais do…

When German teacher Richard Schirrmann converted a former classroom to accommodate young travellers on a budget in 1909, no one could have predicted the global movement he would inspire. Three years later, Schirrmann bought a castle near Dortmund to establish the world’s first youth hostel and by the 1920s, Germany had 2,000 low-cost hostels dotted around its rural areas. But it wasn’t until a group of Brits brought the idea back to the UK and launched the Youth Hostels Association (YHA) in 1930 that the new movement gained its poster child. This July, after more than 90 years in operation, the charitable organisation announced it will sell off 20 of its 150 hostels. Given the hammer blows of the pandemic, it wasn’t wholly unexpected. YHA’s affiliated New Zealand organisation collapsed…

Get in touch inbox@natgeotraveller.co.uk Have a query about subscriptions? Get in touch at natgeotraveller@ subscription.co.uk or call 01858 438787 WIN A Jack Wolfskin Prelight Windbreaker worth £115! Designed for hiking and made entirely from recycled materials, the Prelight Windbreaker is windproof, water repellent and breathable, ensuring comfort no matter the weather. A hood, high collar and adjustable hem provide extra protection against the elements, and it can easily be stowed away in its own pouch. jack-wolfskin.co.uk STAR LETTER Family staycation With the school holidays approaching, we felt we needed to take a short break, but trips can easily get costly. A further complication is that my child has a disability with complex needs. With this background, I was delighted to see the UK & Ireland guide included with the Jul/…

Karlina Valeiko What I found in North Norfolk entirely exceeded anything I could have hoped for. Expansive beaches, endless skies and fantastic food welcomed me to this somewhat underrated corner of East Anglia — it was pure escapism. NORTH NORFOLK P.44 Ben Lerwill Hiking in the High Atlas is as much about the people you meet as the paths you’re walking — although, in the early summer, the scenery is extraordinary, with big, craggy mountains hulking over green valleys of walnut trees and woodpeckers. MOROCCO P.84 Adrian Phillips With the recent opening of the Pelješac Bridge, you can now drive uninterrupted along Croatia’s Dalmatian coast. It’s a trip through a region with fascinating stories, spanning everything from medieval pirates to an underwater winery. CROATIA P.98 Annapurna Mellor On blissful Andøya…

Every time I go back to Mexico City, the city where I was born, I think of staying. There are so many dishes to try, and not enough nights to dance, drink or eat an elote (corn on the cob) on a street corner. The importance of not leaving home on an empty stomach comes from our ancestors and our abuelitas (grandmothers), who lived through hunger during the Mexican Revolution. But we have street breakfast vendors, too. The star option is the guajolota — atamal (steamed corn dough) inside a bread roll. You can find dishes from every Mexican state in the capital, but this is a local speciality — it’s delicious, cheap and filling. Tortillas are on the table every day, freshly made by the local tortilleria from early…

My earliest writing as a child was almost always about my own Cornish environment, and I think that was really what set me off down the travel-writing path. When I started writing professionally, it was about far-off places, mainly in Asia, but I always had a hankering to write about the place that mattered most: home. I just wasn’t sure how to go about it. Writing about your home region is a strange and daunting experience for a travel writer. It’s impossible to be dispassionate, and you’ll probably worry more than usual about how readers will react. It’s also likely to mean asking uncomfortable questions about yourself and your own identity — it certainly did for me. I took a 300-mile walk through Cornwall for the book, and what surprised…

I don’t remember when my love of Canada began — it’s something that’s always been there, this connection to a country that feels like a second home even though I haven’t spent longer than a month there in one go. I grew up by the sea in Cornwall and planned to study marine biology and live out on the water, researching whales and sharks. Unfortunately, or perhaps fortunately, my lack of scientific aptitude quickly put paid to that idea, but the love of nature remained and has been an anchor in my life and in my writing. Canada is a special place. It’s vast, majestic and wild but also friendly, fun and diverse in its landscape — from peaceful hills and lakes in the east through flat golden prairies, rising…

Drawing visitors since the 1700s, North Norfolk has long been a place of escapism. You arrive ready to fill your lungs with sea air and let your gaze drift to the horizon. The natural beauty here is not the kind that smacks you in the face and overwhelms with superlatives. The expansive beaches, endless skies, fenland and watery network of the Broads are a more subtle tonic for the soul — you don’t have to work too hard to forget life beyond this somewhat overlooked patch of East Anglia. It’s also a place to get closer to wildlife. Many of the salt marshes in Norfolk offer some of Britain’s best birdwatching, while seals love to sunbathe on the shingle spits at Blakeney Point. Plus, there’s bluebell and snowbell carpets in…

Menacing clouds skulk over Ao Pra Beach like a pack of starving wolves at dusk. We don’t have much time. Racing against the impending storm, we chuck plastic bottles, food containers and beer-can rings into a washed-up rusty refrigerator, like we’re on a dystopian episode of Supermarket Sweep. “These things are a real nuisance to sea life,” says Nipon Suddhidhanakool, his laid-back demeanour temporarily dissolving into frustration as he points at the old fishing nets and straws in our plastic molehill. “The fridge is, too, but at least it’s not microplastic.” I hadn’t expected this island’s crystal-clear waters to spew a kitchen appliance onto its powder-soft sands, but I’m told the rough seas at this time of year throw up all kinds of junk. It’s Koh Mak’s low season and…

A Thai princess and her entourage sweep through the glass-atrium foyer of Time Kaan, past tall cabinets stuffed to the ceiling with antique tomes and recipe books, to take a seat for dinner. Dutiful waiters are lined up against the wall waiting to be called forward, and the mingled fragrance of cinnamon, pepper and coconut drifts from the kitchen. A flash-happy photographer buzzes around the dining room, capturing the royal arrival, while, behind him, a large clock with golden hands counts down the minutes to the first course. After opening in December 2022 in Bangkok’s Khlong Tan Nuea district, Time Kaan — its name meaning ‘according to time’ in Thai — quickly became the talk of the town. Restaurant critics have admired the subtle flavours and balanced dishes, while social…

On the island of Andøya, a stream of locals walk and cycle down an unsigned dirt road, buckets in hand. Across the peatrich moorland, backed by the misty peak of Ørnlitnden, they hunt for the elusive golden cloudberry — known locally as molte or multe. They grow on single stems just a few centimetres from the ground and are sparsely scattered across the boggy land. Searching for them is a challenge, but it’s also a tradition and an important summer activity for locals, who often take time off work during the short window of perfect ripeness. The tart berry is rich in vitamin C and antioxidants, providing important nutrients for people living in the harsh Arctic conditions. The white-sand beaches of Bleik are linked by a Scenic Route (one of…

It’s impossible to tell how big the black eagle really is until it alights on the oak tree in front of me, making the branches droop and creak as it clings to its perch like an elephant on a tightrope. With a wingspan of around three feet, this giant bird of prey is far less graceful on its talons than it was a moment ago, when it was gliding in broad arcs over the rippling green valley. As I clasp a cup of chai on a terrace 1,800 metres up in the Kumaon Hills, I’m close enough to see its peppercorn-coloured wing tips. Hiking in the Himalayas is often framed around breathless high passes and unforgiving mountain faces draped in prayer flags — but here in India’s Himalayan foothills in…

WHAT’S IN A NAME? BACK STORY The ethnic name ‘Türk’ goes back at least 1,400 years, but before 1923 it described just one group in the multiethnic Ottoman Empire, whose ruling sultan lived in Constantinople (now Istanbul) REINVENTED The Ottoman defeat in the First World War and the loss of most of their non-Turkish-speaking lands kicked off a revolution that saw the sultans replaced with a republic DOT THE U ‘Turkey’ was an informal English name for Ottoman lands even in the 14th century, but Turkish authorities now promote the native spelling Türkiye, partly to avoid association with the bird TRADE NAME One theory for why an American bird got named ‘turkey’ is that the first 16th-century English imports of the large fowl came via Turkish merchants from distant Constantinople…

Innovation is more important than ever for destinations looking to adapt to the rapidly changing world. Today, many travel hotspots are focusing on creative solutions to welcome people from all backgrounds and improve accessibility. While providing improved access and digital tools for visitors, the most innovative cities are also simultaneously helping their local communities and economies by improving recreational spaces, preserving nature and encouraging people to shop local. Initiatives like the European Capital of Smart Tourism and European Destination of Excellence celebrate forward-thinking practices in cities across the continent. Here are some of the ways this year’s winners, Seville, Paphos and Kranj, are paving the way for more enjoyable and inclusive travel. SEVILLE, SPAIN The capital of Andalucia has long been popular for its striking Moorish architecture andabundantsunshine,butit’sfastemerging as a…

Tell us about this image. The Cathédrale Sainte-Marie-Majeure appears alongside its mirror image, reflected in the glass of Mucem, a museum devoted to Mediterranean culture in Europe and North Africa. Both buildings are a short walk from Marseille’s Vieux Port (Old Port), which has linked Europe to Africa for centuries and was redeveloped prior to the city being made the European Capital of Culture in 2013. For me, the area really sums up Marseille: a cosmopolitan coastal city immensely proud of its heritage and equally optimistic about its future. How did you achieve the shot? When I’m on assignment, I always keep a zoom lens to hand to capture those more unexpected moments. For this shot, I used a 24-70mm lens, shooting quite wide to capture the cathedral in its…

You don’t need to have visited Thailand to know its allure — the spectacular beaches, limestone rock formations, jungle-clad mountains and clamour of Bangkok. Its food, ubiquitous across the UK, needs little introduction. While visitor numbers have grown enormously over the past 20 years — with a slight pause due to the pandemic — the country still retains much of the appeal that first drew travellers to this Southeast Asian kingdom. Whether it’s hiking through rainforest, kayaking into sea caves and cliff-backed lagoons, diving or snorkelling among fish-filled coral reefs or simply escaping to a wellness retreat for a traditional massage, Thailand is rich in experiences. This issue, we seek out some of the more unusual and intriguing journeys to be taken in the ‘Land of Smiles’. In the south,…

New Zealand’s southwest corner is where the roads run out — leaving some 4,500sq miles of forest, fjords and jagged mountain chains that make up the country’s largest area of wilderness. Three of New Zealand’s 10 officially recognised Great Walks take dedicated hikers through the northern interior of this region, along the Routeburn, Milford and Kepler tracks. Soon, the coastal south will get its recognition too, as the Hump Ridge Track becomes the newest member of the top league of Kiwi hikes. The 38-mile route was originally opened in 2001, but works over the last few years have aimed to upgrade the path and facilities to a high enough standard for it to become the 11th Great Walk. These trails, run by the Department of Conservation, traverse a wide range…

The appeal of the Bavarian capital extends well outside its ornate historic centre — and beyond Oktoberfest season. Buzzy neighbourhoods like Schlachthofviertel put modern Munich’s creativity on show, stylish coffee shops and bakeries set you up for the day, and sprawling parks have helped to build the city’s liveable reputation. Start with brunch at Café Faber, a former pop-up that found a permanent home along the Isar River earlier this year. The menu changes with the seasons, but you can always expect to see plenty of kimchi, hummus and fresh sourdough. From here, make your way to the old town, where speciality-coffee gurus Sweet Spot Kaffee will sort you out with another caffeine hit. sweetspotkaffee.de In this neighbourhood, you’ll find homegrown businesses among the usual high street names. Founded by…

1 TROPICFEEL MEN’S ZIP-OFF PANT Clothing in neutral shades can elevate your game-spotting chances by helping you blend in with the bush. These trousers have also been created with versatility in mind, with a zip-on leg to combat insect bites and many pockets in which to keep bug spray and other small essentials. £119. shop.tropicfeel.com 2 KEEN NXIS EXPLORER WATERPROOF BOOT Part of Keen’s clever NXIS hiking range, the Explorer is a great companion for bush walks thanks to its cushioned midsole, allterrain outsole and high-traction tread. The fit also leaves nothing to chance, securing the heel while creating space for the forefoot to spread out. Each sale supports a range of not-for-profit initiatives. £160. keenfootwear.com 3 ROYAL ROBBINS WOMEN’S EVOLUTION JOGGER PANTS Largely made of recycled plastic bottles, these…

Why did you start free-diving? I’ve loved swimming ever since I was a kid. Before taking my first free-diving course in 2007, I was a scuba instructor in Thailand. One day, we were exploring a shipwreck and I saw this lady swim down from the surface using only a monofin, which is a swimfin you attach to both feet. I thought, ‘I’d love to be able to do that!’ At first, it was just a hobby. It was only when I began to realise the importance of sharing my knowledge with others that I knew I wanted to pursue it professionally. You’ve since broken the national record for static apnea six times and set a personal best of seven minutes. It’s funny being good at a sport that involves lying…

Draped across the very top of the Indian subcontinent, the Himalayas are the stuff of trekking legend. Every hiker worth their boots has likely dreamed of tackling this range’s trails, which carve out the craggy routes between remote villages and mountain monasteries, in the formidable shadows of the world’s highest peaks. In the high-altitude valleys of Nepal, Bhutan and India, trekkers face sights that many may believe are reserved for mountaineers: the aquamarine lakes in their valleys, the alpine meadows dusted with wildflowers and the snow-capped mountains themselves. And in the rugged landscapes between the peaks live bands of indomitable people — nomadic yak herders, enlightenmentseeking monks, mountain-climbing Sherpas. You’ll find culture in abundance here, too, whether you stay in local teahouses or trek off-grid. And there are ways for…

Mani Rimdu, Tengboche, Nepal The fabled monastery of Tengboche on the Everest Base Camp route overflows with Sherpa pilgrims in October or November. Celebrating the victory of Buddhism over the Bon religion of Tibet, festivities include masked dancers depicting protector deities and characters from Tibetan legends, and parades by members of the Yellow Hat Sect of Tibetan Buddhism. Hemis Gompa, Hemis, India At the end of the Markha Valley trail in northern India, Hemis Gompa marks the birth of the Indian guru Padmasambhava, in May, June or July. Look out for masks, murals and thangkas (cloth paintings) depicting the sage who transported Buddhism across the high Himalayas. Paro Tshechu, Paro, Bhutan The town of Paro’s energetic Tshechu festival takes place in March or April each year, coinciding with the height…

With large swathes of rainforest waiting to be explored, Malaysia’s beautiful island region of Sarawak is fast becoming a prime destination for travellers seeking adventure. Here you’ll find fairytale caves, crashing waterfalls, forests of towering tapang trees and limestone sea stacks in weird and wonderful shapes. Trek under the canopy and you may be lucky enough to spot orangutans, proboscis monkeys and even a rhinoceros hornbill bird, which takes pride of place on Sarawak’s coat of arms. Sarawak has more than 24 national parks and reserves open to the public, all protecting habitats including beaches and coastal mangroves, hilly inland regions and mountains along the Indonesian border. Here are five adventurous ways to get a taste of the region’s extraordinary flora, fauna and geology. 1. HIKE BAKO NATIONAL PARK Bako…

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