Innholdsfortegnelse for July / August 2023 i National Geographic Traveller (UK)

Editorial Director: Editorial Director: Maria Pieri Editor: Pat Riddell Managing Editor: Amelia Duggan Deputy Editor: Amanda Canning Commissioning Editors: Lorna Parkes, Georgia Stephens Assistant Editor: Angela Locatelli Senior Editor: Sarah Barrell Executive Editor: Glen Mutel Associate Editor: Nicola Trup Content Strategist: Berkok Yüksel Deputy Digital Editor: Karlina Valeiko Art Director: Becky Redman Art Editors: Lauren Atkinson-Smith (maternity leave), Lauren Gamp Senior Designers: Kelly McKenna, Dean Reynolds Designers: Rosie Klein, Sophie King Junior Designer: Natalie Cornelius Picture Editor: Olly Puglisi Branded Content Manager: Flora Neighbour Deputy Branded Content Manager: Jack Clayton Project Editors: Jo Fletcher-Cross, Rory Goulding, Zane Henry, Megan Hughes, Farida Zeynalova Assistant Project Editor: Sacha Scoging Head of Sub Editors: Olivia McLearon Senior Sub Editor: Hannah Doherty Sub Editors: Chris Horton, Ben Murray, Victoria Smith Operations Manager: Seamus McDermott…

After 10 days of beautiful scenery and frosty nights, our brilliant trekking guide, Hem, safely deposited us on top of Gokyo Ri (5,330m), to watch the last light on Earth flicker off the top of Mount Everest at sunset. A humorous storyteller, Hem provided the perfect balance: he pushed us beyond our own mental limitations, but also reassured us when needed. This was his first trip into the high Himalayas since the pandemic, and his enthusiasm and childlike excitement to be back among the big mountains was an infectious motivator for us all. We wouldn’t have made it if it wasn’t for him. MICHAEL CHARLES SHERIDAN • michaelcharlessheridan.com @michaelcharlessheridan…

Kimpton Sawyer Sacramento hovers under the radar thanks to its proximity to San Francisco, but the city is worthy of a stay, not least for the food. Its culinary prowess shines brightest at restaurant-led boutique hotels. Leading the pack is Kimpton Sawyer. With its mid-century furnishings and alt-pop lobby playlist, guests might feel like they’re checking into the latest vintage-themed Arctic Monkeys music video. It’s effortlessly cool, with velvet seating and scattered plants reflecting downtown Sacramento’s thriving arts and agricultural influences. The 250 rooms and suites impress with soft curves and rich woods. Request the top floor for skyline views, and a king suite with a balcony for a real treat. You’ll overlook Tower Bridge and the Wild West-themed Old Sacramento district, less than a 10-minute walk away. The two…

THE DESTINATION The Wild Atlantic Way is one of Europe’s most spectacular driving routes, meandering along the length of Ireland’s west coast. Zoom in and the coastline’s southwest corner, from Cork to Kerry, beckons with small islands, sheltered coves and sandy bays. Highlights include the Dingle, Iveragh and Beara Peninsulas, plus the scenic crag of Mizen Head, the most southerly point in mainland Ireland. All along the route, coastal villages await with seafood and live music. THE PRIZE With 20 years’ experience, tour operator McKinlay Kidd creates tailor-made trips and small-group guided tours around the UK, Ireland and Channel Islands. In partnership with Tourism Ireland, McKinlay Kidd will offer the winner and a guest its seven-day Wild Atlantic Way — Discover Cork & Kerry selfdrive tour. Stay in hand-picked hotels…

“In São Paulo, people had no idea about our food — they didn’t value it,” says Thiago Castanho. “They joked that we rode alligators. But things are changing.” The owner of Remanso do Peixe, a restaurant on a quiet street in the heart of Belém — 1,900 miles north of São Paulo — Thiago has become a key figure in the Amazonian city’s rise to culinary prominence. With no cookery schools in Belém, he first had to leave his home town, moving to São Paulo and Portugal in the early 2000s to train as a chef. Thiago always hoped to return. “Every time I saw a dish from elsewhere, I thought, man, this would be incredible with Amazonian ingredients.” His first restaurant in Belém, Remanso do Bosque, spent four years…

NAIROBI Best for a quick warm-up No other African capital is as blessed with wilderness as Nairobi; its eponymous national park lies on its doorstep and is also an ecological education and research hub, with an exemplary record in protecting rhinos. You can see giraffes, hyenas and even lions here. The Kenya Wildlife Service has no accommodation in the park, but it’s easy to plan day trips from the many low-cost hotels — either in central Nairobi or out of town. How to do it: Park entry is US$43 (£35) per day. Swara Acacia has half-board doubles from US$94 (£75). swaraacacia.com TSAVO WESTS Best for lions Tsavo West National Park is half way between Nairobi and Mombasa in Kenya’s deep south, and elephants, leopards and rhinos can be found here.…

Is it risky to visit wildlife areas? While serious incidents are rare, African animals can be dangerous, particularly if you’re wild camping, walking or kayaking. Treat them with respect and never assume it’s OK to leave your vehicle or stroll through an unfenced area alone. If your vehicle breaks down, it’s generally safer to stay put and await help. Some parks have patchy mobile coverage, but it’s worth carrying a phone just in case. Malaria may be present in safari areas, for example in Kruger; check ahead and follow recommended precautions, such as taking preventive tablets and reducing your risk of mosquito bites by using DEET-based insect repellent and covering bare skin. Visit travelhealthpro.org.uk to find out more. What should I wear while on safari? Bring long sleeves and trousers…

Steeped in history and packed with extraordinary landscapes, Herzegovina — the southern half of Bosnia and Herzegovina — is an unsung Mediterranean escape. Strolling through the cobbled streets of its regional capital, Mostar, feels like stepping back in time, with its gushing streams, medieval towers and enchanting stone buildings. Stray beyond this, however, and the region’s bucolic charms unfurl, from fragrant hillside trails just begging to be hiked to seeing wild horses up close in the Dinaric Alps. 1 ZIPLINEOVER THE HISTORICAL CITY OF MOSTAR Located in the heart of Herzegovina, Mostar is the country’s fifth largest city and is home to a unique melting pot of cultures. Most striking of all is the UNESCO-listed Old Bridge (Stari Most), completed in 1566 by Ottoman architect Mimar Hajruddin. With a history…

To begin at the end: the remains of the apostle Saint James (or Sant Iago, in Spanish) are believed to repose in an urn, in a tomb, in a crypt, in the looming medieval cathedral of the city named after him. Santiago de Compostela was built around the saint’s burial site, as revealed to a shepherd by a guiding star almost a millennium after the body was carried here by stone boat from Jerusalem, with angels guiding the way. Or so the story goes. It has since led more than 1,000 years’ worth of pilgrims to this convergence point of myth and history, via the network of cross-country trails known as the Camino de Santiago. In 2022, a record 438,000 people completed one of those routes, some of them covering…

The number of people concerned about their health and wellbeing has rocketed since the pandemic began. The stats are legion but among them, 80% of those surveyed by Public Health England in 2020 — in the first year of Covid-19 — reported wanting to change their lifestyle in 2021 to become healthier. Meanwhile, an Ipsos study in 2021 noted that 62% of Americans believe health is more important to them than before the pandemic. And this has, as countless more reports will attest, changed the way many of us want to travel. Just over a fifth (21%) of global travellers are currently travelling for health- and wellness-driven reasons according to the 2022 Travel Trends research by luxury travel network Virtuoso, conducted jointly with YouGov. And its findings suggest this is…

Tell us about this image. This image was shot on the Mekong River in southern Laos, close to the border with Cambodia. I was on assignment for a photo story about life along the Mekong when I came across this scene in Si Phan Don — meaning ‘4,000 islands’ — an area known for its traditional, laid-back way of life. How did you achieve the shot? The image was shot on a Canon 5DS with a 70-200mm 2.8 lens at 140mm. I prefer to shoot landscapes with longer focal lengths; I like the way it compresses the scene, pulling the background into the frame, making the hills seem closer and more dramatic. I also used a LEE Filters 0.6 neutral density grad filter to retain detail in the sky and…

Sarah Gillespie I lived in South Moravia during 2020/21, and only got to experience it for three months before the pandemic lockdown. Returning to see it back to normal, with theatres and wine bars swinging once again, was emotional, to say the least. SOUTH MORAVIA P.44 Tomé Morrissy-Swan Often overlooked by visitors, Belém is home to dishes rarely found outside the Amazon. Native, European and African influences have created a unique cuisine, with ingredients such as enormous Amazonian fish and the mouth-numbing jambú plant. BELÉM P.50 John O’Ceallaigh In Bali, everyday activities are infused with incredible beauty. I walked to the shops under canopies of starburst-yellow trees; at supposedly humble homes, I was awed by intricate stonework; on evening strolls, fireflies illuminated the path for me. BALI P.56 Adrian Phillips…

Nudging up against the turquoise waters of the Mediterranean, the Valencia region is a long strip of land along Spain’s east coast, blessed with a warm, sunny climate throughout the year. Winters are mild and summers hot — even humid at times — with the occasional light sea breeze, and rain is scarce. Close to the city of Valencia lies Albufera Natural Park. Given its name (meaning ‘the lake’) by Spain’s Moorish rulers in medieval times, the park’s freshwater lagoon is fed by the rivers Turia and Júcar, and surrounded by woods, wetlands and rice fields. Paella rice is grown here and it’s also where the dish originated, as a meal for shepherds and those working the land. But it’s not just rice that grows in Valencia. Its rivers, fertile…

Anfield, the home of Liverpool FC From top: Munich’s old town; photoshoot on the FC Barcelona Museum and Nou Camp stadium tour Barcelona Lionesses Lucy Bronze and Keira Walsh are in Barcelona’s women’s team, who play most of their home games at the Estadi Johan Cruyff. On occasion, however, they appear at the mighty Camp Nou — Lionel Messi’s spiritual home — and the stadium remains one of the most iconic in Europe. If you can’t bag match tickets, a self-guided tour is a fine alternative. You’ll get the chance to sit in the stands, visit the dugouts and walk through the matchday tunnel, as well as wander the extensive club museum, complete with Golden Boots and vintage shirts. It gets busy in high season, so book ahead. Tour from…

Lost in the Lakes Tom Chesshyre takes a 379-mile hike around the Lake District, venturing into backcountry, away from the tourist honeypots. He stays in remote bothies, shepherd’s huts and climbers’ hotels, meeting farmers, hikers and fell runners en route. One for casual hikers, budget travellers and those interested in the landscape, ecology and day-to-day life in the Lakes. Summersdale, £16.99. Walking the Bones of Britain The Times’s walking correspondent Christopher Somerville makes a thousandmile journey from the Outer Hebrides to the Thames Estuary to tell the story of Britain’s unique geology. As part of the journey, this book explains how the land has shaped our past and continues to define the fabric of the nation, from farming to the Industrial Revolution and beyond. Doubleday, £25. Sarn Helen: A Journey…

Kampot, a river town in southwest Cambodia, is where my book took root. It’s around a threehour drive from Cambodia’s capital, Phnom Penh, and it’s close to a mountain where my 10-year quest for answers ended in 2012. Here, in an abandoned casino at the mountain’s peak, I stumbled upon the voice of Cambodia’s most famous mid-century crooner-pop star. Alone, but for a stereo, a stranger and me, the singer’s mellifluous voice took flight in the Cambodian language, Khmer. Bouncing off the empty walls, his vocals entwined with a Farfisa organ, its keys squeezing out the melody of Procol Harum’s A Whiter Shade of Pale. His voice seemed to permeate every cell in my body. I felt as if I was soaring and immediately wanted to know everything about the…

Clouds of smoke rise from either side of the road to Grindavík. On the right, steady white plumes emanate from the famous Blue Lagoon. On the left, the smoke is coming from something altogether newer. Iceland’s latest volcanic arrival, Fagradalsfjall, has had a spectacular birth. I visit just three months into its fiery delivery; some scientists suggest it’ll continue to erupt for several years to come. The mountain cracks opens again and again, thousands of gallons of bright lava crashing down the side of the volcano. From a safe distance, watched by rangers, I join a few dozen visitors to witness this subterranean light show as it goes off every 10 minutes or so. People have been drawn like moths from all over the world to this flame. If Fagradalsfjall…

Who are the Black Mambas? We’re an all-women anti-poaching unit in Olifants West Nature Reserve, part of the Greater Kruger National Park. Our job involves protecting wildlife like rhinos, as well as animals that are targeted for bushmeat, by patrolling the fences and searching for snares that can catch animals around the neck or foot. We work 21 days straight, with 10 off. Why are the Black Mambas all female? We know how to nurture and take care of things. I think this industry has typically been a man’s world, but we are slowly changing that by showing that a woman doesn’t have to be in the kitchen. Are you armed? No — if we find a poacher, we call for backup. We’re trying to conserve wildlife, not take human…

For the last 15 minutes, the silverback in front of me has been fiddling with his belly button. If I were to break down every penny spent on my US$700 (£560) permit, this intimate viewing has set me back $175 (£140) so far. Costing up to US$1,500 (£1,200) for an hour’s viewing in some countries, gorilla trekking is undoubtedly one of the world’s more costly wildlife experiences. Yet anyone who’s scaled the slippery slopes of volcanoes or squeezed and scraped through bamboo thickets to spend time with some of our closest cousins will tell you it’s money well spent. Besides, my one-hour Ugandan encounter is half the price of what it would cost in neighbouring Rwanda. And nearly 50% of the world’s population of mountain gorillas live in Uganda’s Bwindi…

It’s a few too many minutes after midnight, and I really should be asleep. But instead, I’m binge-watching — live and screen-free. My current obsession, a YouTube sensation, has just waded into the water hole up to her belly, then out again. She’s now marked like a honey badger: her top half silver-grey from dust; lower half dark from the water. For a rhino, it’s a strong look. Earlier, I’d watched a gaggle of leggy supermodels bend gracefully towards a mirror: wild giraffes, preparing to drink. And in an earlier episode there was a furious family bust-up involving a herd of elephants. I’m in Namibia’s most-celebrated national park, Etosha, beside 50-metre-wide Okaukuejo Waterhole — aman-made lifeline in a brutally arid landscape. One of Africa’s best locations for nocturnal wildlife-watching, it’s…

It’s a couple of miles north of Padrón when I realise what an odd sight we make. Traffic on the arterial N550 speeds through the suburbs, past car showrooms and builders’ merchants, past mechanics and cash-and-carry supermarkets. Yet here we are, too, we pilgrims — travellers from an older, slower time, inching towards journey’s end on the final leg into Santiago de Compostela. What explains the continued fascination of a Camino de Santiago pilgrimage? Why, each year, do hundreds of thousands of people choose the footpaths of medieval penitents over trails elsewhere? I ponder this over five days along the Portuguese Way from Tui. Lacking the time for the full route from Porto, I was walking the trail’s final 64 miles, just within the 62 miles required to qualify for…

Gently treading through dry scrub and open grasslands, passing magnificent baobab, red bush willow, marula trees and acacia woodlands, I found my 5am start was quickly forgotten. From enormous termite mounds, nervous impalas and jumpy dik-diks in the bush to grunting hippos and bathing crocodiles wallowing in the riverbed, the sights of the early morning walking safari in Tanzania’s Ruaha National Park remain some one of my most treasured memories. The luxurious tented camp, G&Ts at sundown and chefs rustling up brunch beneath a tree all added to the experience, of course, but the frills in travel aren’t always necessary for the thrills. Seeing elephants, lions, giraffes and rhinos in their natural habitat is the real reason everyone finds themselves up at dawn, clutching binoculars and shuffling through spectacular landscapes.…

As the capital of the historical region of Alsace, which has belonged alternately to both France and Germany over the centuries, Strasbourg has developed a distinct identity all of its own. The heart of local life is the Grande Île, an island on the River Ill in the historic centre of the city. Here, narrow, cobbled streets are overlooked by signature timber-framed architecture and the 466ft, 15th-century spire of the gothic Strasbourg Cathedral. Start by immersing yourself in the local crafts, clothes, traditions and dialect by visiting the cleverly curated Alsatian Museum, set in creaking medieval houses connected by wooden staircases and old passageways. Inside, over 5,000 artefacts — clothes and furniture, toys and religious artworks — paint a picture of rural life in Alsace between the 18th and 19th…

1 BATOKO SEAL SWIMSUIT Batoko’s entire range of swimsuits is lined, supportive and made from Global Recycled Standard (GRS)-certified 100% recycled plastic. The design of the Seal swimsuit was inspired by the UK’s grey seal colonies and kelp forests, and for every item sold, a portion of the profits goes to supporting the Cornish Seal Sanctuary, which aims to rehabilitate stranded marine species. £60. batoko.com 2 GUMBIES SCRAMBLER SANDALS IN BLACK Recycled rubber is woven into the grippy outsole of these sandals, which is then bound by biodegradable jute — plus, the straps are made from recycled plastic. Designed for outdoor adventures, these shoes feel comfortable even after hours of walking thanks to a soft, spongy footbed. £35. gumbies.co.uk 3 DOCK & BAY CHROMATIC CARNIVAL QUICK-DRY TOWEL Microfibre towels are…

What kick-started your career as an extreme adventurer? I joined the Royal Marines at 16, where I enrolled into the British Commandos, the longest, hardest infantry training in the world. I spent seven months learning skills including survival, orienteering and signalling before going on to become one of the youngest Elite Commando Reconnaissance Snipers in the UK armed forces, serving in destinations from Northern Ireland to the Middle East. This career path taught me how to survive in some of the world’s most extreme environments. I think that’s probably what set me off on my path of adventure. Since then, you’ve tackled expeditions in a variety of remote locations. Which proved the most challenging? From a physical point of view, it has to be rowing across the Atlantic with Team…

Welcome to Czech wine country, a tapestry of green vineyards, glassy lakes and redroofed sandstone villages. Put away that stein — South Moravia has almost as many wine cellars as residents. Following decades of Communist-wrought destruction, this onceprestigious winemaking region is bouncing back — and throwing its doors open to visitors. Brno, the region’s capital, is the Czech Republic’s second-largest city after Prague. On the surface, it’s a kaleidoscope of UNESCOlisted functionalism and Austro-Hungarian glamour, but it’s worth going deeper — literally — into Brno’s underground, where you’ll find shadowy catacombs and colonnaded 19th-century water tanks. Catch a train south and you’ll pass factories on the fringes: it’s not for nothing that Brno was once called the ‘Moravian Manchester’. They’re soon replaced by hills knotted with vines. In the medieval…

“Stop!” I shout. My husband, Jon, hits the breaks. A tiny trunk emerges from the branches of the marula trees at the side of the road; a much larger trunk and curved tusks follow. The elephants’ bodies sway forward, huge feet silent as they cross the tarmac just in front of us. We reverse — we know never to get between an elephant and her young — and there they stand, mother and baby, calmly taking us in while we stare back from behind the windscreen. The assumption is usually that to see elephants like this, you’d have to pay a hefty price for the privilege. And to some extent that’s true; the words ‘affordable’ and ‘safari’ rarely sit alongside each other. But here in South Africa, a safari is…

What’s the New Big Five? The original ‘Big Five’ is an old term used by colonial-era trophy hunters in Africa for the five most prized and dangerous animals to hunt: elephants, rhinos, leopards, African buffaloes and lions. The New Big 5 project set out to create a more positive photographyfocused alternative. How were the New Big Five animals chosen? Wildlife lovers were invited to vote for their five favourite animals to see in photos. More than 50,000 cast their votes, with results announced in May 2021: gorillas, elephants, polar bears, lions and tigers. The initiative was supported by photographers, conservationists and wildlife charities, including Jane Goodall, Chris Packham and WWF. Are the old Big Five still relevant? Much less so these days. Some safari companies and lodges still use it…

PROS IT’S CHEAPER Most camps and lodges drop their rates for the green season (except over Christmas). This could save visitors hundreds of pounds, compared with peak season prices. There are often good deals, too, such as ‘stay four nights, pay for three’. LANDSCAPES ARE LUSH It’s not called green season for nothing. Rains rejuvenate the vegetation, making for thicker bushes and green plains. They also clear the air, creating a much more photogenic landscape than during the dry, dusty months. BIRDS FLY IN Hundreds of migratory species — from European rollers to willow warblers — fly here after summering in the northern hemisphere. IT’S QUIETER Animal sightings needn’t be shared with dozens of other tourists, and families may get camps all to themselves. In normally busy parks such as…

For a land so far from the sea, Austria has an incredible number of opportunities for aquatic adventure. You can barely pick up a map without dipping your finger into one of the country’s 25,000 bodies of water, which range from tiny Alpine tarns to large, windruffled lakes. You’ll find plenty of classic activities, from kayaking and open-water swimming to windsurfing and sailing. But be prepared for surprises here, too, there’s wreck-diving and standup paddleboard yoga in Vienna’s urban heart. 1 HIT THE RAPIDS Tyrol’s dramatic Zillertal Valley throws you in at the deep end. Here, the Ziller River rages in all its glacier-fed glory, past daggershaped peaks, pine forests and timber chalets clinging to cow-nibbled pastures. The best way to experience its exhilarating twists and turns is by grabbing…