Innholdsfortegnelse for March 2023 i National Geographic Traveller (UK)

Doug Loynes The fall and rise of Matera, one of the world’s oldest continuously inhabited settlements, is a great Italian renaissance story. But although the past lives on via its frescoed, rock-cut churches and cave dwellings, this city is looking to the future. MATERA P.44 Neil Davey Herefordshire feels like the UK’s best-kept secret. The scenery is beautiful, the history often fascinating and the culinary scene local, seasonal and wonderfully collaborative — exactly the kind of thing to which we should all aspire. HEREFORDSHIRE P.50 Monisha Rajesh As Indian Railways marks its 170th anniversary, I decided to return to India, 10 years after my first book, Around India in 80 Trains, was published. I was keen to rediscover the charm, energy and magic of travelling along the country’s classic routes.…

Tel Aviv stretches along Israel’s beautiful Mediterranean coastline, from Jaffa in the south to the cliff-lined beaches of the north. It’s a diverse city, lively and full of culinary pleasures stemming from the wave of migrants that began arriving in the 1920s — Jewish immigrants from European countries including Germany, Romania, Hungary and more, as well as arrivals from places such as Morocco, Yemen, Iraq and Syria. As a young boy, I used to love exploring restaurants and cafes specialising in traditional food you couldn’t find anywhere else. It’s fascinating walking through the small streets of Kerem Ha Teimani, for instance — the Yemenite quarter — with its intoxicating scents and tiny, simple restaurants serving authentic Jewish-Yemenite food. I’d find comfort in hearty dishes cooked overnight on kerosene flames, such…

Fifty-one stations after leaving jampacked Osaka — the landscape growing ever quieter, the platforms ever emptier — you step out of your train at Gokurakubashi, ‘The Bridge of Heaven’. You get into a clanky cable car and, minutes later, you face a silent country road, with little on it but signs warning of bears. A slow country bus takes you into a settlement consisting of 117 temples, their grey roofs like the prows of ships about to sail off into the mist. You’ve entered the single most powerful spot I’ve discovered in 35 years living in Japan. Koyasan, or Mount Koya as we might call it, is the centre of the esoteric Buddhist order known as Shingon, a practice so mystical that none of its details, it’s said, were written…

It’s a bright September morning in Herefordshire and breakfast is being served at The Riverside at Aymestrey, a charming 17th-century pub with rooms. My toast and house-made pumpkin seed granola were pre-ordered the previous evening — part of the pub’s efforts to reduce waste — but there’s something on the table I wasn’t expecting. “That’s golden marrow marmalade,” explains general manager George Parkes. “We had a lot of golden marrows, so we had to find something to do with them.” In 2022, The Riverside at Aymestrey won the Best Sustainable Pub prize at the Great British Pub Awards, and it’s easy to see why. Everything on the table is ultra-local and highly seasonal, mostly originating from The Riverside’s two-acre smallholding on the hill above the pub. This enviable low-food-mile philosophy…

Our train has barely begun to brake into the station when I hear the familiar sound of sandalled feet slapping on the ground followed by the excited cries of vendors passing baskets. Those who got off are now ambling towards the exit while the rest of us gather at the train’s doorways for a tussle with the passengers attempting to board. It’s 13 years since I first encountered the quirks of Indian railways and it feels like coming home. I’ve arrived in Jodhpur from Jaipur to embark upon a desert train adventure to Jaisalmer in the west of Rajasthan, not far from the Pakistan border, but I’ve got some time to kill before my connection, so set off to explore the blue-walled city. On my last visit to Jodhpur, I…

YESVANTPUR-KARWAR EXPRESS Bangalore to Mangalore This train traces a glorious stretch of railway through the heart of Karnataka state, connecting the city of Bangalore with the port hub of Mangalore. Known as the Green Route, it’s an explosion of forests, rope-like creepers, clusters of wonky palms and skinny waterfalls with rainbows forming in their spray. Over 10 hours, the train slips into around 60 tunnels and thumps across more than 100 bridges over coffee plantations, thrashing rivers and valleys thick with growth. Top tip: Book seats in the Vistadome carriage, which enables passengers to experience 360-degree views from rotating seats. CHENNAI EGMORE-RAMESWARAM E XPRESS Chennai to Rameswaram Departing Chennai at 7:15pm, this train travels down the southeast edge of India to Pamban Island, home of the Ramanathaswamy Temple, one of…

A decade ago, Lima was unburdened with expectation. It’s long been one of South America’s larger cities — with a population of over 11 million, it’s currently only just lagging behind the likes of Bogotá and Rio de Janeiro. But for years it had neither the international reputation nor connections to make it worth much of a detour for anyone beyond dusty backpackers making their way up or down the mighty Pan-American Highway, and travellers transferring on to Machu Pichu or the Peruvian Amazon. But over the past 10 years, the Peruvian capital has steadily been establishing itself as South America’s premier culinary destination. Visitors today will find a city almost overburdened with fine dining, extraordinary produce and plenty of surprises besides. The founding of Central, the pioneering flagship restaurant…

ISSUE 110, MARCH 2023 Big countries offer epic train journeys. From Australia to Canada, South Africa to the US, traversing a nation by rail can offer insight into a destination rarely achieved by any other means of transport. But with one of the largest rail networks in the world, India is perhaps where this unique perspective really comes into its own. With 40,000 miles of track, 25 million passengers a day and more than 13,000 trains, this vast country is best explored from the seat of a carriage. The first Indian passenger train departed Bombay on 16 April 1853. Our cover story this issue, nearly 170 years later, shines a light on what’s gone on to become one of the world’s most celebrated networks, taking in mountains, cities, jungles, rivers,…

There’s much to celebrate on Flying Scotsman’s 100th birthday. Built in 1923, the world-famous steam train has broken all kinds of records in its history, becoming the first locomotive to officially hit 100mph and circumnavigate the globe. In 1989, it also ran the longest nonstop service by a steam locomotive, clocking 422 miles while touring Australia — arecord that still stands today. Following an overhaul, it’s now ready to embark on a celebratory programme of events up and down the country. Festivities kick off with a pair of exhibitions at its current home, York’s National Railway Museum. From 10 February, Flying Scotsman: 100 Years, 100 Voices will explore the train’s significance with stories from its makers, staff and passengers, while the original watercolour sketches from the new children’s book Flying…

Set on the country’s west coast, at the gateway of its namesake archipelago, Sweden’s second city is equal parts down to earth and chic, with towering shipping cranes and whitewashed fishing boats sitting alongside design shops and lustworthy restaurants. The city is also extremely planet conscious, topping the Global Destination Sustainability Index for the past six years, and dynamic, too, with cool new areas emerging next to cobbled, historic pockets. Get to grips with its history at the Museum of Gothenburg, set inside the 18th-century former headquarters of the Swedish East India Company. There’s also the Museum of World Culture, near the popular Liseberg amusement park. Free to enter, it’s a trot through global maritime, social and political landscapes, and it celebrates Sweden’s burgeoning multiculturalism. goteborgsstadsmuseum.se varldskulturmuseet.se Over in the…

1 PÁRAMO SOCORRO WOMEN’S SHIRT, £65 Designed for tropical weather, this shirt is made of fabric that distributes sweat to aid in cooling and drying. It’s UV-proof with an SPF exceeding 50, while its close weave and secured cuffs and collar protect against biting insects. Smart details include a hidden inside compartment and a chest pocket for OS maps. paramo-clothing.com 2 ARIAT SKYLINE SUMMIT WATERPROOF BOOT, £170 These best-selling leather boots feature a shock-absorbing midsole for uneven paths, plus an ergonomic and gel-cushioned heel that will make for surer footing. Light but sturdy, they have a good degree of ankle protection, a moisture-wicking footbed and mesh inner-lining ensuring excellent breathability. ariat.com 3 LEKI CRESSIDA FX CARBON TREKKING POLES, £189.99 Poles will increase your stability and endurance, test the ground before…

Where did your appetite for adventure come from? I think it’s a mix of being outside a lot when I was younger and wanting to travel. I’ve always loved the water and the sea. I’m just fascinated by it. I’d swum competitively in a pool and then, when I was 14, I took up open water swimming. What was the best part of your record-breaking swim? Seeing so much of the UK from the sea. I’d never been to Cornwall — and I’ve still not actually been on land in Cornwall! But to be able to see bits of the UK from a perspective that very few other people have experienced was a highlight. Oh, and having dolphins swim alongside me. You spent up to 12 hours a day in…

Getting to know Delhi India’s capital city, built and rebuilt upon the rubble of Sufi shrines and Mughal tombs, is home to bazaars, swathes of jungle and parks with bougainvillea-draped tombs. From Haveli Dharampura — aboutique hotel in a restored 19th-century mansion in the heart of Old Delhi — it’s a 10-minute walk towards the sound of hissing karahis in the food haven of Matia Mahal Bazar, where mutton burra kebabs and silk-soft roti are served at Karim’s. Lodhi Gardens is a popular spot for dawn joggers and evening amblers, while Sunder Nursery feels like a national park due to the 40 varieties of butterfly that flit between flaming gulmohar trees, ponds and flowerbeds. For a nightmarket experience, head to Dilli Haat, an openair bazaar where crafts and snacks from…

HIMALAYAN QUEEN FROM KALKA TO SHIMLA With a couple of jerks, the toy train rolls out of Kalka station to hoots and claps and begins its ascent to Shimla. Opened in 1903, the line was built to enable British colonisers to set up a summer residence in the cooler climes of the Himalayan foothills and, despite frequent closures, it’s survived as one of the most charming train rides, with 102 tunnels and more than 800 bridges on the five-hour climb. Winding its way through forests of maple and sharp-smelling pine, the train teeters along cliff edges where the odd sandal can often be spotted — lost by those hitching a ride. There are stops for tea and thick triangles of hot bread pakora, consumed while milling around making friends and…

Set in the most westerly part of Florida’s Panhandle, a stone’s throw from the Alabama border, Pensacola is a modern city with an old soul. It may be the sugar-white beaches that first draw you in, but beyond these coastal fringes lie distinct urban neighbourhoods, eclectic arts spaces and heritage sites that bring a 460-year history to life. And thanks to Pensacola’s location on the Gulf of Mexico, restaurants serve up seafood-heavy menus showcasing everything from local grouper to shrimp. Pensacola’s sandy shores are where families can paddle in clear Gulf waters and anglers fish from the pier. At Pensacola Beach, the 8.5-mile Footprints in the Sand Eco-Trail features displays on sea turtles, local birdlife and dolphins, while the family-friendly boardwalk is lined with a colourful variety of restaurants and…

I met Felipe, a South American gaucho horseman, and his wife Laura on a tour of Argentinean Patagonia. The couple live in extreme isolation near Lake Traful, on a private reserve bordering Nahuel Huapi, the oldest national park in the country, and Lanín National Park, with its snow-covered stratovolcano. Their family estancia (cattle ranch) has been converted into sleeping quarters where I spent the night after a day on the saddle. At dinner, Felipe and Laura cooked roast lamb and kept my glass topped up with Malbec. I had a great evening reflecting on my day, spent wondering around emerald lakes, knife-edge mountain passes and grassy pampa plains. DAVID DE VLEESCHAUWER • PHOTOGRAPHER @remoteexperiences…

Celebratory exhibitions First up, the MO Museum is paying tribute to Ričardas Gavelis’ Vilnius Poker, widely seen as one of the most important works of Lithuanian literature. Published towards the end of the Soviet era in 1989, it’s become a symbol of creative freedom, and a namesake exhibition opens in April. Meanwhile, May will see the inauguration of Vilnius 200 Years Ago at the Lithuanian National Museum’s New Arsenal. It will depict a model of the city as it was in the 19th century, with visual projections and augmented reality portraying how it’s changed over time. The space will pitch camp at the foot of the 157ft Mount Gediminas; before leaving, head up the hill for some of the best views over the UNESCO-listed Old Town. mo.lt/en lnm.lt/en Turning the…

M.Ou.Co Discreetly tucked away on a quiet road in the trendy Bonfim neighbourhood, a brisk 20-minute walk east of the centre of Porto, M.Ou.Co is one of the city’s newest hotels, having opened its doors in 2021. Bonfim is perhaps the obvious place to convert a former warehouse into a casually cool boutique hotel; it was recently dubbed one of the coolest neighbourhoods in the world by Time Out, with the creative crowds drawn to the area’s elegant townhouses and charming, oldschool spots to eat and drink. M.Ou.Co ticks all the necessary design boxes for the resurgent neighbourhood. Concrete, dark wood, glass and natural light feature highly and, alongside vintage, mid-century furniture, there’s a distinctly analogue feel to the place. The music area has more than 600 vinyl records to…

It’s a remarkable rags-to-riches story. Carved into a remote ravine in the Basilicata countryside, in the instep of Italy’s boot, Matera was once dubbed ‘the shame of Italy’ for its caves that housed the city’s poor and exploited rural workers; by the 1970s, it’d become a ghost town, the first time the settlement had been uninhabited in 10,000 years. Yet a decade later, its evocative beauty lay the foundations for an extraordinary revival, thanks to a group of enterprising local creatives (many descended from the original inhabitants) who spotted its potential. These days, the city’s churches jostle for space with boutique hotels, galleries and restaurants that have themselves been repurposed from former cave dwellings. Matera now has UNESCO status, was Europe’s 2019 Capital of Culture and has even drawn the…

Maharajas’ Express Featuring mirrored mosaic ceilings, raw-silk upholstery and goldrimmed dinner plates piled with saffron-scented biryani, the Maharajas’ Express is the most opulent service, with four categories of cabin and suite — and a premium price tag to match. Its Indian Panorama itinerary includes a six-night round trip departing Delhi for Jaipur, a game drive through Ranthambore National Park, and the deserted Mughal city of Fatehpur Sikri. There’s a dawn visit to the Taj Mahal in Agra, followed by a day spent exploring the quiet town of Orccha and the erotic temples of Khajuraho before a final day in Varanasi to glide along the Ganges by boat. the-maharajas.com Top tip: Pack a warm fleece and scarf for the early-morning game drive. Deccan Odyssey A red carpet rolls out like a…

THE EXPERTS Where would you recommend for a hiking holiday in southern Europe this spring? As the second largest of the Greek Islands, peaceful Evia rewards with superb archaeological finds, lovely vineyards and glittering beaches where you might not see another soul. There’s a real charm to following the old mule tracks, known as ‘kalderimia’, along the coast and through mountains, gorges and historic villages. My favourite walking spots include Dimosari Gorge for its waterfalls, rocky ravines and lush green slopes, and the Dragon Houses for the 20-plus megalithic structures mysteriously buried deep in the mountains. Equally standout is Karystos, where you can climb the 4,586fthigh Mount Ochi — arocky stunner towering over the Aegean Sea. As for accommodation, HF Holidays’ comfortable partner hotels offer Greek food, live music and…

The stone circles of Avebury are bathed in golden light early on a crisp autumn morning. The Neolithic monuments, which are rooted in and around a sleepy Wiltshire village, 17 miles north of Stonehenge, were once a major stop on a now largely lost network of roads established by drovers and traders. Several thousand years later, a small band of travellers with rather different intentions are gathered beside the stones. We wear tastefully muted shades of Lycra and merino wool as we make the final checks on our bikes before a modern adventure with historic foundations. I’m here to ride a wave that’s swept the cycling industry in the past few years. It’s called ‘gravel cycling’. And, like cargo trousers and bucket hats, it has the strange quality of being…

Get in touch inbox@natgeotraveller.co.uk Have a query about subscriptions? Get in touch at natgeotraveller@ subscription.co.uk or call 01858 438787 WIN Win a Nevis Extreme Rucksack worth £159.99! This Mountain Warehouse trekking bag combines a 65L rucksack with a detachable daypack. An adjustable back system, waistband and hip belt ensure a comfortable fit, while compression straps reduce the bulk. Features include hydration and padded laptop compartments, key clips and cable access for headphones. mountainwarehouse.com STAR LETTER Get active As simple as it sounds, there’s nothing my wife and I enjoy more than exploring cycle-friendly cities on two wheels. We love the freedom, the sense of living like a local and the amount of ground you can easily cover. Your recent piece on Utrecht (Weekender, November 2022) caught my attention when I…