Innholdsfortegnelse for January - February 2023 i National Geographic Traveller (UK)

Daniel Stables The veil between this world and the next feels thin on the Isle of Man, where fairy houses hide in glens and folklore infuses the work of chefs, brewers and distillers. Just as magical are foraging forays in the bountiful Manx countryside. ISLE OF MAN P.48 Carolyn Boyd I wasn’t sure what to expect from Bayonne, having last visited 20 years ago. It had me at ‘the French capital of chocolate’, but I also loved the architecture, shops and restaurants — and the people that run them. For a weekend away, it’s hard to beat. BAYONNE P.54 Justin Meneguzzi In New Zealand, it’s not just the mountains calling out to adventurers — it’s also the rivers, woods and caves. Locals always find new ways to fly between trees…

To understand Malaysian food, you have to understand how the country is made up. It consists largely of three races (at approximate percentages): Malays (60%), Chinese (25%) and Southern Indians (7%), with the remaining number made up of many Indigenous peoples — imagine the array of flavours and influences from these four cultures alone. Then there are also influences from neighbouring Thailand and Indonesia. Malaysian cuisine is a fusion of all these cultures; each has applied interesting features from the others to its own cuisine. Malays use lemongrass, chillies, onions, garlic and ginger to make fragrant spice pastes as the base of most of their dishes. They also use empat sekawan (four friends) — cinnamon sticks, cardamom, star anise and cloves — to infuse soups and stews. These give the…

FOR PALAEONTOLOGISTS Jurassic World: The Exhibition, London Peer into a velociraptor training pen and encounter such beasties as T-rex herself, alive with nerve-shaking animatronics. Digital boards detailing ammonites and cycads place the creatures in their natural context, and there’s a laboratory where dinosaur eggs can be X-rayed. Adult tickets from £26, children £18.50. Runs until 15 January. jurassicworldexhibition.com FOR BUDDING HISTORIANS The History Whisperer, Liverpool St George’s Hall has seen it all, from Ringo Starr performances to homecomings for Liverpool and Everton football clubs. It’s now also home to Livie, the digital guide who takes visitors on an augmented reality tour of the building’s past — as both an opulent concert hall and site of notorious prison cells — complete with music from Royal Liverpool Philharmonic Orchestra. Adult tickets £6,…

If you find yourself in Travemünde, the port and resort of Lübeck on the north German coast, take the boat across the River Trave to the Priwall peninsula. The journey only lasts a couple of minutes and when I did it this past summer, I walked the entire length of this narrow sliver of land to reach a nudist beach, where bathers used to hang their towels out to dry on the Iron Curtain. Lübeck is famous as the medieval capital of the Hanseatic League, but for much of the 20th century, it played a different role as West Germany’s outpost on the Baltic Sea, with East Germany uneasily alongside it. The Cold War brought many negative phenomena to Europe, but its most visible manifestation was always Germany’s division, especially…

As I dip my spoon into a chocolate and Amarena cherry souffle — piercing the bubble-light sponge to find succulent cherries hiding at the bottom — Ithank my lucky stars I’m getting to enjoy a dessert course here in France’s chocolate capital. This souffle, at La Table de Sébastien Gravé, is so good I almost burn my mouth trying to eat it too quickly. For a devout chocoholic like me, this treat would have been more than enough to sate my appetite for Bayonne’s signature product, but in truth the town has plenty more than its sweet moniker would suggest: there’s charcuterie; the punchy Piment d’Espelette chilli; and fresh fish from the nearby port at Saint-Jean-de-Luz. Over my three-course lunch at Sébastien’s restaurant, next to the River Nive, I enjoy…

You will not encounter the Murlan if clouds have gathered in the sky. He chooses only fair weather to strike. And you won’t feel his breath on your neck until he’s upon you. Of the 15 different winds said to bluster over Lake Skadar, the Murlan is the one you need to watch out for. The Danik, a gentle spring-summer easterly, blows only in daylight hours; the night-time Noćnik exhales across the lakeshore from various directions, blessing vineyards and wheat fields with fertility — or so local legends go. The fearsome Murlan, however, rises into the sunshine over Lake Skadar and sends sudden, seismic waves that claim boats for the deep. “And it almost always comes in the afternoon,” says my guide Sara Jovićević. “We’d better hurry.” It’s mid-morning as…

PRICE FREEZE TIC KETS J UST £10!* Whether you want to taste your way around the world or meet some of the biggest names in food, the National Geographic Traveller Food Festival has it all. Across a weekend in July, we’ll bring together famous chefs, authors and experts to celebrate food and travel at London’s Business Design Centre. Catch live demonstrations and interviews with the culinary world’s leading lights at the Main Stage; learn how to make delicious dishes in the Masterclass Theatres; join in the conversation with renowned authors at Speakers’ Corner; and raise a glass in the Wine & Spirits Theatre. BOOK YOUR TICKETS NOW AT FOODFESTIVAL.NATGEOTRAVELLER.CO.UK IMAGES: CHARLIE RICHARDS; DAVID MERRON. FOOD STYLIST: ANGELA ROMEO *OFFER EXPIRES 31 DECEMBER DIARY DATES THE ANTARCTIC: HOW TO PLAN THE…

In 2022, travel reinstated itself in our lives as pandemic challenges cooled, and confidence and our sense of adventure rose again. In the seventh annual Reader Awards, shortlisted by our judges and voted for by you, we wanted to know what inspired you to pack your suitcase last year — and where you headed. Plus, who got you there, what captured your interest and what you read and watched on the way. Our awards celebrate the places, experiences, tour operators and travel innovators shaping the industry and the very best in travel last year. The votes are in, let’s reveal the winners… WINNER Italy For the fourth time in a row, you picked Italy as your short-haul destination of choice, and it’s easy to see why it continues to dominate…

ISSUE 109, JAN/FEB 2023 New Zealand is one of those destinations that never fails to capture the imagination. A perennial favourite in our annual Reader Awards, this year you voted it the ‘best long-haul country’. Understandably, then, it’s the Māori culture, exquisite wines and unique wildlife and landscapes — from the mountains of the South Island to the North Island’s otherworldly geothermal sites — that beckon travellers to a nation with a keen sense of its own distinct identity. Add to this the fact that the pandemic put tourism on hold for over two years, with a staggered reopening in 2022, and New Zealand’s allure is surely at an all-time high. Our cover story this issue focuses on the wild side of this remarkable country — known as Aotearoa (‘the…

Britain’s oldest, longest and most complete defensive walls encircle Chester: a perimeter of ramparts dating back 2,000 years. But Chester isn’t confined to history — Cheshire’s county town excels at finding ways to explore its past, and its historic core is now seeing the fruits of a £72m regeneration fund. As well as a major revamp of the Northgate bus station, the headline development is Chester Market, which hosts 39 stalls in an oak-beamed food court, including established vendors, beloved local brands and successful pop-ups in new permanent homes. Indulge in dairy and vegan confections from Cheshire Farm Ice Cream; site-roasted coffee from Bean & Cole; French patisserie from Pastry Pédaleur; and street food from the likes of Big Lola’s Taqueria and Guroma — plus, designer pet treats, clothing and…

1 THE BELFRY Bruges’ most famous landmark, this 13th-century belltower has watched over the city from the market square through a series of disasters, from lightning strikes to raging fires. It’s a sensible place to start a walking tour, particularly as you can ascend the tower’s 366 steps to be rewarded with sweeping views over the city’s gothic rooftops. On the way up, admire the carillon, a vast keyboard instrument which plays tinkling tunes on 47 bells. museabrugge.be 2 ROSARY QUAY A few minutes’ walk east takes you through the stately Burg Square, past the glorious gothic town hall, to Rosary Quay. This canal-side wooden dock is celebrated as the most photogenic spot in Bruges — no mean feat in a city famed for its beauty — and was named…

Golden sand, Indian Ocean waves and a subtropical climate — it’s hardly a surprise to find Durbanites at the beach every weekend in the summer. Many travellers, however, find themselves in Durban for its proximity to the Drakensberg mountains, Big Five safari reserves or the KwaZulu-Natal battlefields. But linger longer and you’ll find there’s plenty to keep you in town. There’s no better place to start the day than along the Golden Mile beachfront, where there are plenty of spots to do as the locals do and learn to surf. Addington Beach is good for beginners, but if you’re a seasoned surfer, try North Beach or, if that’s too busy, Battery Beach. Fancy something gentler? Hire a stand-up paddleboard and take it out on the Point Waterfront Canals behind uShaka…

What sparked your interest in travel and adventure? As a kid, I was a real dreamer and a big reader. I spent a lot of time buried in history books and fell in love with stories of great journeys. When I was at university, I won a scholarship to study Thai and Burmese history in Thailand and Myanmar, and it blew my mind. The experience transported me to new cultures, languages and ways of thinking. From then on, I knew I wanted to forge a career that would allow me to constantly drop myself into new places and try to understand them. The thrill of culture shock has never left me — Ifind it absolutely exhilarating. You spent many years exploring Myanmar. How did you decide to get started as…

With long winter evenings and colder temperatures, many of us dream of drifting along on a yacht somewhere warm, with sunshine, gentle winds and crystal clear waters. The good news is that some destinations are perfect for sailing and winter sun, with options for all abilities. What’s more, yacht experts, Sunsail, offer many opportunities to anchor your vessel beside pristine beaches for incredible sunsets. BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS Many sailors and yachts move from Europe to the Caribbean for winter — to enjoy the warm temperatures, sunshine and steady trade winds. Places like the British Virgin Islands, a British Overseas Territory, are a good place to start, with sailing for all levels and fantastic yachting facilities making it one of the Caribbean’s sailing capitals. You can explore more than 60 islands…

TH EEXPERTS Nigel Tisdall Travel writer Sarah Barrell Senior editor, National Geographic Traveller (UK) Ianthe Butt Travel writer Neil English Travel and ski writer I’d like to visit the Caribbean this winter. Where would you recommend for an active getaway? Barbados is easy to reach, with plenty to do beyond flopping on the beach. Time your trip to take in one of the free, three-hour ‘Stop ‘n Stare’ hikes run by the Barbados National Trust every Sunday afternoon. These head off to littleknown corners of this history-rich isle, moving at a good pace to provide both a decent workout and the chance to chat with Bajans. For some cycling, eBike Island Adventures is a new company offering guided tours by e-bike. There’s a choice of eight rides, from a half-day…

Hiking is the national pastime in South Korea, a country where mountains cover 70% of the landscape. Seoul is no exception: despite being one of East Asia’s most exciting urban destinations, the capital is also a unique place to spend time in nature, with ancient peaks rising in the middle of its neon-lit streets. In the wake of the pandemic, hiking has experienced a renaissance of sorts in the city, and routes have been spruced up with new stairways, pavilions and observation platforms. What’s more, all of it is now easier to explore for every traveller looking to hit the trails thanks to a new hiking one-stop shop — the Seoul Hiking Tourism Center. BUKHANSAN MOUNTAIN DAEDONGMUN GATE TRAIL BEST FOR: BEGINNERS Not only is Bukhansan the capital’s highest mountain,…

Tell us about this image. I was in Korea working on a visual essay about Seoul’s cultural heritage, and a visit to the Gyeongbokgung Palace museum was essential. Each day, the museum puts on re-enactments that bring the palace’s vast and austere front courtyards to life. I had planned for shots of Gyeongbokgung Palace’s architecture to run through the photo story, and including the re-enactment would contribute in three ways: preventing the museum shots from seeming empty; encapsulating both past and present; and enabling me to tie in my existing shots of Koreans in hanbok. How did you achieve the shot? On travel assignments, I mostly end up leaving my longest lens (a 70-200 zoom, short by some photographers’ standards) behind, as I like to get up close through a…

WHAT’S NEW • FOOD • ON THE TRAIL • WHERE TO STAY • FAMILY • INSIDE GUIDE • STAY AT HOME • BOOKS SNAPSHOT Pablo Valladares, Galápagos Islands After being forced to spend the initial phase of the pandemic on the Ecuadorian mainland, guide Pablo Valladares returned home to Isabela Island, in the western part of the Galápagos, in September 2020. Without any visitors, he spent his time teaching local kids how to surf, working on his garden and trading with other islanders. When we met in October that year, I was his first guest in eight months. “The city wasn’t for me,” he said of Guayaquil. “Here, I can listen to the ocean and watch the sunrise in the most natural place.” JAMIE LAFFERTY • PHOTOGRAPHER @megaheid jamielafferty.com  @travel_journo…

Neeleshwar Hermitage Hidden away on Kerala’s Malabar Coast, getting to this Ayurveda-focused retreat is part of the fun — usually involving a flight to Mangaluru or Kannur, or a six-hour train ride from Kochi. But what rewards await: with just 18 stylish, sunrise-facing cottages under thatched roofs and gardens brimming with frangipanis, leading down to a golden-sand beach. Rooms come with Keralan antiques and indoor-outdoor bathrooms; go for the Prema or Bhakti cottages, which have their own pools and open-air bathtubs. Mornings here start with mugs of Karnataka coffee at tables right on the sand, or a spot of yoga in a flowerfringed pavilion. Specialised yoga retreats are on offer, as well as meditation and consultations with the resident Ayurvedic doctor. You might opt for one of the hotel’s Keralan…

An atmosphere of otherness pervades the Isle of Man. A green jewel glittering in the Irish Sea, the island is often shrouded in mist — aveil said to have been cast as a protective cloak by the sea god Manannán, according to Manx mythology. Lift the veil on this Celtic nation and you’ll find tales of legends run even deeper; green glens, crumbling castles and a dramatic coastline are the setting for a cast of characters from demon dogs to hairy ogres. Even today, locals pause to greet the ‘Little People’ said to live beneath the Fairy Bridge between Port Erin and Douglas — and warn that you’d be wise to join in the superstition. The ruins of once-mighty fortresses feature at coastal settlements like Peel and Castletown, while inland…

Christians believe that Jesus Christ once walked through the narrow, cobbled streets of Nazareth, the centre of Israel’s Arab population and the largest city of the Galilee. These days, the ochre-stone houses in old Nazareth are populated with artsy coffeeshops, galleries stocked with local handicrafts and traditional bakeries selling knafeh, a sweet, cheesefilled pastry. On the outskirts of the Old City lies Nazareth Village, an openair museum where biblical scenes are recreated, along with snapshots of daily life and handicrafts from the first century. The city of Nazareth marks the start of the Jesus Trail, a 40-mile hiking route that — almost literally — follows in the footsteps of Christ, connecting sites from his life and teachings. Taking in dramatic scenery, it leads pilgrims along the steep slopes of Mount…

“Atlanta is home to some incredible green spaces, but they just don’t get the credit they deserve,” says Kenya Jackson-Saulters as we stride along the Atlanta BeltLine. If it gets completed on schedule, in 2030, the greenway will link up 45 neighbourhoods along a 22-mile loop, mostly comprising disused railway tracks. Helping the city to shake off its reputation as a traffic-clogged capital — also one where 75 million passengers annually surge through one the busiest airports in the world — the Atlanta BeltLine is bringing green shoots to this urban jungle. Although the snaking trail is still a work in progress, it’s already found deep roots in the community. We’re venturing along the four miles of pathway that unfurls through the Eastside. Kids wobble past on bikes, and Kenya…

The great ‘return to travel’ in 2022 was not the big break we’d been waiting for. “To say that last summer was a shambles would be an understatement,” says Ben Clatworthy, transport correspondent for The Times. With last-minute cancellations, huge airport queues and lost luggage, many passengers heading off on their first travels since 2019 faced problems at almost every turn. “Airports passed the blame: to the Cabinet Office, in charge of security vetting, and to ground handling companies. Airlines blamed just about everyone. And almost everyone across the aviation sector complained of staff shortages and blamed the tight labour market.” So, what happens next? “Issues are already starting to ease,” says Clatworthy. “Airlines, airports and ground handlers have all managed to steadily increase their headcounts, getting new employees vetted,…