Innholdsfortegnelse for December 2022 i National Geographic Traveller (UK)

Charlotte Wigram-Evans In Hanoi, tradition thrives. Nothing illustrates this better than its food, from girls giggling over sticky rice to students slurping pho bowls from hole-in-the-wall eateries. But you’ll also meet chefs keen to mix it up, blending old recipes with new techniques. HANOI P.156 Stephen Phelan As a Goya fan, I wanted to see some of the painter’s best work in his hometown of Zaragoza. The city turned out to have its own magnetism — apresent-tense place to feast on Aragónese culture, pleasantly haunted by 2,000 years of history. WEEKENDER P.50 Audrey Gillan As a Glasgow Girl, I grew up within shouting distance of Argyll. Yet, it wasn’t until later in life that I appreciated its beauty and bounty — there’s incredible food available across the region, if you…

Some will have wondered what took Michelin so long to visit Toronto. After all, this is a city that really knows how to eat, whether it’s Chinese-Caribbean fusion food or spectacular sashimi. It’s the first Michelin Guide to a Canadian city, and there’s plenty to whet the appetite. According to the guide, the 74-strong list represents Toronto’s ‘international inspiration and distinct creativity’, with 13 restaurants having received at least one Michelin star. Japanese cuisine features prominently, with the likes of Aburi Hana gaining a star for its sophisticated menu. Quetzal impressed with its Mexican dishes cooked over a woodburning grill, while Alo earned a star for its contemporary French fare. Italian restaurant Don Alfonso 1890 was also recognised for the likes of buffalo tenderloin wrapped in Swiss chard and hazelnut…

With its wide, palm-lined streets, sprawling green parks and historic buildings, San Jose will surprise anyone expecting the heart of Silicon Valley to be a densely packed, futuristic hub. Only half an hour from the whitesand beaches of Santa Cruz, the 10th-largest city in the US has a small-town feel, but has a thriving arts scene, eclectic restaurants and plenty of live entertainment to rival many of its West Coast neighbours. More than 40% of San Jose’s residents were born overseas, and local restaurants map their story. You’ll find cuisines from every corner of Asia, but iChina takes its modern fare one step further in its augmented reality room. Here, each creative course is paired with surround imagery — expect dishes such as sea cucumber stuffed with shrimp and lobster,…

What drew you to the camera? I was doing a PhD in economics in Paris when my wife Lélia, who was studying architecture, bought a camera. I looked through a viewfinder and my life completely changed. What I loved, what I found interesting, what made me upset — Icould capture it all. Photography took up so much time there was nothing left for any other activity. How did your early life inform the stories you covered as a photojournalist? I came from an underdeveloped country with huge social problems, and for a while I studied and worked as an economist. I was a Marxist, then became a Maoist and afterwards a hippy. These movements gave me a communitarian vision of the planet, which inevitably led me to a human, social…

GARUDHIYA This fragrant fish soup is a favourite during winter, when it’s often poured into bowls from bubbling pots by street vendors. The base is a restorative clear broth, flavoured with ginger, garlic, black pepper and a squeeze of lemon juice, with fresh chunks of yellowfin tuna or skipjack, as well as chilli and grated coconut. It’s often fleshed out with steamed rice or mopped up with torn pieces of roshi — the Maldivian chapati that’s soft on the inside and crispy on the outside. To try this nourishing soup, visit one of the restaurants on the laid-back island of Kelaa in the north of the Haa Alif Atoll. KUKULHU RIHA A delicious curry isn’t hard to find in the Maldives. And although fish lays claim to most large plates,…

In Emilia-Romagna, history and culture are laid out in a straight line along the Via Emilia. Built when the Romans conquered the Padan Plain, the consular road served as the artery along which new cities formed and old centres prospered. Two millennia later, it remains virtually unchanged, running the length of the region from the Adriatic Coast to the Po Valley. It’s perhaps fitting, then, for this road to have become the cradle of the country’s automotive industry. A hotspot of car manufacturers, international racing tracks and private collections, Italy’s Motor Valley has orbited around the local city of Modena for over a century. Far from being only a centre of four-wheeled pride, the area delivers the same standard of craftmanship to all its endeavours, be it cuisine, art or…

Taiwan’s eastern railway carries travellers into the tranquillity of the island’s isolated east, cleaving cleanly through its mountainous, coastal country. The route south winds through cities and villages, along the azure-blue shores and into sprawling farmlands, past the striking black rock of the Qingshui cliffs. Within an hour, Taipei’s neon cascade of signs and skyscrapers are long forgotten. Get a glimpse of Taiwan’s lesser-explored eastern side with this seven-day itinerary. DAYS ONE TO FOUR TAROKO GORGE AND HUALIEN The best way to get to the city of Hualien is via train from Taipei, the international hub and capital city. From the platform at Hualien station, you’ll step out into the centre of small-city life. Shopkeepers dust down the pavements in front of their stores, working around families perched on plastic…

Despite the turbulence of recent years, and the current economic situation, the world continues to turn, and tourism initiatives continue to develop, regardless of everything going on around us. Compiled by National Geographic Traveller editors across the globe, the annual Best of the World list reflects the travel landscape as we see it for the 12 months ahead. With options on your doorstep, a short hop across to Europe or much further afield, this year’s 35 destinations offer insight into a vast array of experiences available for visitors from far and wide. But rather than simply being a list to tick off, it’s a closer look at cultural reawakenings, conservation initiatives and Indigenous programmes focused on improving, preserving and developing destinations for the benefit of local people and wildlife, as…

On 14 November 1922, the British Broadcasting Company began reporting from a studio on the Strand in London. A hundred years later, this rich heritage is the inspiration for the Science Museum Group’s series of exhibitions up and down the country, celebrating both the BBC’s centenary and the 40th anniversary of Channel 4. At London’s Science Museum, the BBC At 100 exhibition brings together a collection of artefacts from the past century, including a portable disc recorder used to report directly from the battlefields of the Second World War and a 1980s Cyberman costume from the 25th series of Doctor Who. The show focuses not just on broadcasting, but also on the pivotal role the Beeb has played in the nation’s education, too, with a look at its Computer Literacy…

Tuba Club In France’s oldest city, celebrated for an ethnic diversity that stems from centuries of trade, a growing number of boutique hotels are reflecting the local culture and connection to the sea. One of the spots bringing new energy to the ancient city of Marseille is Tuba Club, set on the waterfront in the neighbourhood of Les Goudes. The 2020 opening took over a century-old building, which started life as a restaurant before becoming a diving club frequented by legendary French free diver Jacques Mayol in the 1980s. Fast-forward to today, and it’s been completely reborn as a stylish, sea-facing retreat, designed by a local collective of friends with backgrounds in cinema, architecture and fashion. Tuba Club celebrates its setting through its design, with upcycled furnishings appearing alongside the…

WIN THE DESTINATION The Turquoise Coast is the stuff of winter daydreams: golden beaches, coastal paths fragrant with orange trees and rocky cliffs sheering into the Aegean. Susona Bodrum sits at the heart of this timeless landscape, a five-star retreat that revels in its spectacular location. Tuck into dinner at one of the hotel’s restaurants and bars; sip cocktails in the buzzy Frankie Beach Club; or unwind in the spa, home to an authentic Turkish hammam. There’s plenty to discover nearby, too, including quiet coves and ancient Roman ruins, while the town of Bodrum, with its historic castle and lively cafes, is just a 15-minute drive away. THE PRIZE Courtesy of Susona Bodrum, part of Hilton’s LXR Hotels & Resorts, the winner and a guest will enjoy a three-night stay…

No Spanish place name holds as much mysterious promise as Zaragoza. It sounds like a magic word, the last phonetic flourish of a witch’s spell. Appropriate, given the city almost feels conjured from the wind-whipped moors around halfway between Madrid and Barcelona. Standing on the River Ebro, this provincial capital has witnessed centuries of turbulence as the capital of the former kingdom of Aragón — adomain variously occupied over the millennia by Romans, Islamic caliphates, Catholic monarchs and the forces of General Franco. All left their mark on the present architecture, but there are few buildings more evocative than the baroque spires around the mighty basilica of Nuestra Señora del Pilar, which marks the spot where the Virgin Mary supposedly appeared to St James in AD 40. Step inside and you’ll…

There are worse places for a morning coffee than Kahveci Mustafa Amca Jean’s. Sitting on one of the stools in the quiet courtyard off İstiklal Avenue, I realise I’m not the only one to think so: a street cat has found a seat of his own, too, curled up on a cushion beside me in the sun’s gentle rays. A quiet clattering of cups comes from the tiny kitchen in the corner. “We have a saying in Turkish,” says Duygu Doğuç, “‘Eat sweet, talk sweet.’ If you just want to chat, we drink sweet tea. If you want a serious talk, then we have coffee.” I’m expecting, then, an earnest conversation with my guide from Istanbul Tour Studio as we sip strong, bitter cups of Turkish coffee, but it never…

“Forward… stop! Forward… brace!” shouts rafting instructor Ronny as we careen towards the seething rapids. Only minutes ago, he’s had to berate our team of four for lack of coordination. But now, we’re like a well-oiled machine. Bootcamp style, Ronny barks out instructions and we respond instantaneously, plunging our paddles into the water to power forward, then leaping to one side to avoid capsizing. We’re navigating the torrents that rush downstream from the Marmore Falls, one of Europe’s highest waterfalls. They’re found in the central region of Umbria, dubbed Italy’s green heart: with just under 900,000 inhabitants and a couple of modest-sized cities, it’s dominated by verdant hills that roll as far as the eye can see. It’s heaven for hiking and cycling, but here in the Nerina Valley, where…

THE EXPERTS I’ve been to eastern Mexico but would like to explore the Pacific coast. Where would you recommend? The west of Mexico is spectacularly diverse, where mountainous landscapes give way to lush forests, mangroves and lagoons. It’s a magnet for surfers, and the marine life here is rich and varied, too — it’s on this coastline, in places like Puerto Vallarta and Mazatlan, that sea turtles nest each year between June and November. Travel between June and September, meanwhile, and you might be able to spot the bioluminescent plankton in Manialtepec Lagoon, near Puerto Escondido, while whale-watching season is at its peak between December and March. Generally, however, April to June is the best time to visit, when there’s little rain and fewer tourists than during the winter high…

1 ATTENDCARNIVAL Low rolling drumming will shake the streets in Port of Spain. Vibrant colours will whirl past as dancers march, twist and spin. Street by street, thousands gather across the capital. Carnival, the biggest party in the Caribbean, is underway in Trinidad. A final bout of unfettered exuberance before the solemnity of Lent, the late February festivities simply mustn’t be missed. 2 TASTETHE DIVERSITY Home to a blended culture born of its diverse communities, there’s no better way to understand Trinidad than through its cuisine. Stop for sweet, smoky, spicy stews, reminiscent of West Africa. For fragrant, Indian style chickpea snacks. Or for sizzling Chinese hot pots, Arab kebabs or Creole seafoods bursting with flavour. 3 EXPERIENCENATURAL WONDERS Being a unique confluence of Caribbean and South American ecosystems, the…

In 2006, Cameron Diaz and Kate Winslet swapped homes in romcom The Holiday and took house swapping to a mainstream audience. Such trust might have seemed a fanciful Hollywood notion to some, but those who’d been doing this kind of reciprocal holidaying for years were just surprised that Diaz left her holiday home without having hoovered. House swapping, where you exchange homes for a holiday, is a fast-growing trend. UK-based company Love Home Swap saw an 82% rise in new UK members last year, and similar enthusiasm has been shown on other sites — the number of exchanges finalised on rival Home Exchange, which lists properties across 187 countries, grew by 79% in the same period. But as a concept it’s actually been around since the 1950s — the oldest…

SNAPSHOT Aroni, Kabalutan, Indonesia The village of Kabalutan, on the island of Sulawesi, is home to the Bajau people. For centuries, the Bajau have free-dived in the waters around them, catching and selling fish. While spending time there, I met Aroni, the only villager who crafts swimming goggles. He makes them from mangrove wood and recycled glass — it takes him two days to complete a pair. Meeting and chatting with Aroni was a highlight of my trip, and he showed me the age-old techniques he uses to work with just a handful of materials. His goggles don’t let water in and are as good as any mass-produced ones. LYNN GAIL • PHOTOGRAPHER BIG PICTURE Osa Peninsula, Puntarenas, Costa Rica Plagued by mosquitoes, I waded chest-deep into murky water where…

Romania’s landscape is dominated by the Carpathian Mountains and the mighty River Danube, with many smaller rivers carving their way through forests and hills to nourish fertile plains. This is a country of dairy, where creme fraiche is so thick you can slice it with a knife; of plums, which are turned into magiun fruit butter or baked into pies; and of walnuts, used in many age-old dishes. It’s also a country of overlapping cultures. Culinary exchanges happened over centuries of tumultuous history, from the honey-sweetened cheese pies of the ancient Greeks and Romans, to the nutty halvas of the Ottomans and the rolled filo pastry strudel of the Habsburgs. A tava (baking tray) taken out of the oven might carry a plăcintă (savoury cheese pie), cornulețe crescents (pastries) filled…

Shrewsbury eBike Hire BEST FOR: SEEING THE SIGHTS AT A GENTLE PACE Set off on a self-guided tour of Shrewsbury on one of the town’s new e-bikes. Partly edging the River Severn and finishing at Flaxmill Maltings, the route is easy to follow with lots of stops along the way, including the Welsh Bridge, Shrewsbury Museum & Art Gallery and the Victorian-era Shrewsbury Prison, which closed in 2013 and is now open for tours. It’s most suitable for ages 14-plus, but attachable trailers are available to hire for younger ones. shrewsburyebikehire.co.uk Shrewsbury Market Hall BEST FOR: FOOD AND VINTAGE FINDS (AND GIN STOPS FOR THE ADULTS) Situated in the centre of town, this was an innovative example of modern architecture when it opened in 1965, controversially replacing the old Victorian…

Does an author ever go off duty? Quite the contrary, according to The Writer’s Journey: In the Footsteps of the Literary Greats, a new illustrated atlas by Travis Elborough, which tracks illustrious authors on 35 seminal trips that changed the literary world. Taking a journey away from your norm, says Elborough, works wonders on the creative imagination. It can inspire a change of tack, a brave new work or provide the moment that ignites the desire to be a writer. Even failure can be fruitful — in fact, those who set off with the express purpose of making a particular journey often find themselves on a different course entirely, as is the case with the entry on Baudelaire. As an errant youth, the French poet was packed off to India…

In July 2017, I was in New York, finishing the research for my book, Chamber Music, a study of the first album by hip-hop group the Wu-Tang Clan. I say I was in New York, and of course I was, but there are certain caveats. I was staying with friends of friends in downtown Manhattan, but my days were spent in Staten Island, the original home of most of the band’s members. Staten Island is the fifth borough of New York City, but most visitors to the city go there only for the briefest amount of time. That’s because the famous yellow ferries that chug back and forth across Upper New York Bay dock there after cutting a path past the Statue of Liberty and, on the return journey, offer…

IMAGES: AWL IMAGES With 25 selected by the global editors of National Geographic Traveller, and an additional 10 from the UK edition busan south korea CULTURE From craft breweries to Asia’s top film festival, South Korea’s second largest city is fuelling a cultural boom With K-pop and Korean film making waves in global culture, the country’s creative flair is firmly in the spotlight. Cinema is a communal experience in Busan, South Korea’s second largest city, which has hosted one of Asia’s most prestigious annual film festivals for nearly three decades. In 2022, the Busan International Film Festival held screenings in 14 neighbourhood venues across this seaport of 3.4 million people. Before performances, movie lovers can grab a craft beer — Busan is celebrated for its artisan brewers — or stroll…

Tell us about this image. I’d always wanted to visit Bhutan, mainly to take photos of the local festivities and traditions. Taking place each spring, the Paro Tshechu Buddhist festival is one of the country’s major events. It’s held to commemorate the birth of Guru Padmasambhava, the patron saint of Bhutan, who introduced Tantric Buddhism to its people. Dancing and playing music while wearing traditional costumes is an important part of the cultural life of Bhutanese people, and it’s done to convey religious messages and display righteous ways of living. I spent two full days at the festival to collect as wide a variety of shots as possible. With this particular photograph, I waited for the dancers to have one foot up to give the image some symmetry. I sat…