Innholdsfortegnelse for November 2022 i National Geographic Traveller (UK)

James March Modern Slovenia is young, but its hills and yawning valleys hide recipes stretching back centuries. My journey across its ragged north was a window into how this small nation has evolved into a dynamic democracy while never forgetting its roots. SLOVENIA P.56 Hannah Summers Food market, rainforest or beach, you won’t hear music in Colombia without seeing some serious hip-swaying to go with it. It creates an infectious energy — one that will have even the most rhythmically challenged travellers toe-tapping to the beat. COLOMBIA P.72 Ben Lerwill Spending time in Tanzania’s Ruaha National Park was a joy. While the park is around 13 times larger than the better-known Maasai Mara, it draws just a fraction of the visitor numbers. The wildlife’s superb, while seeing other vehicles is…

Coronation Market in Kingston, Jamaica’s capital, seems to go on forever, a winding sprawl of streets with vendors selling everything from roasted breadfruit to knock-off branded sports vests. Food is a big draw for people who shop here. Sellers sit under the shade of zinc roofs behind produce stacked high: scotch bonnets, thyme, yams, cling film-wrapped saltfish, pimento berries, ackee fruit — ingredients destined for classic dishes, whose influences spread well beyond the island’s coastline. Jamaica’s cuisine is tightly interwoven with its history, with roots in both the Indigenous population and those who came here. From the Indigenous Taino to the Spanish who arrived in the 16th century, the British who landed in the 17th century and then the hundreds of thousands of West and Central Africans brought over, enslaved…

While the familiar faces of Mickey, Minnie, Donald and Daisy will don sparkly new celebratory outfits for the park’s 30th-birthday festivities — and new themed treats will appear in the restaurants and cafes — the biggest news at Disneyland Paris this year is the launch of the Avengers Campus, which opened in July. Part of Walt Disney Studios Park, this new area offers two experiences for Marvel fans: Avengers Assemble: Flight Force (a thrill ride for those over 4ft tall) and Spider-Man WEB Adventures, a fast-paced family mission for all heights. You can even immerse fully in the Marvel world by checking into the new on-site, Manhattan-style Disney Hotel New York – The Art of Marvel, which has the world’s largest collection of original Marvel artworks; indoor, outdoor and kids’…

Return to My Trees: Notes from the Welsh Woodland As our forests begin their fiery, seasonal display — and our awareness of deforestation becomes ever sharper — Matthew Yeomans’ reflective travelogue exploring our vital relationship with trees is a timely release. Join Yeomans on his 300-mile walk through Welsh woodlands and forests, ancient and newly planted, uncovering their fertile history and folklore, tales of industrial progress and decay, and places once sacred to ancient Druids and early Celtic saints. Calon, £18.99. Wildlife Walks: Get back to nature at more than 475 of the UK’s best wild places Lancashire-based nature writer and naturalist Charlotte Varela finds beautiful UK escapes exploring the Wildlife Trusts’ nature reserves nationwide. Taking in the wildlife and landscapes of forests, heaths, moors and woodland, the guide offers…

Dartmoor has always been my landscape of firsts. Of the UK’s 15 national parks, it was my debut moorland at four years old, freshly landed from the humidity of Augusta, Georgia in the US, where my brother and I were born. Our parents, both naval officers at the time, were keen for this chapter on British soil to take a more outdoors approach. The types of adventures we’d assumed were fiction were suddenly possible on our doorstep. Living just nine miles from the edge of the national park — and even closer to Devon’s famous South West Coast Path — altered our understanding of what it meant to ‘explore’. We had footpaths to find, hills to climb, hidden corners to bookmark. We’d arrive home, breathless and chapped; we were invigorated…

Utrecht is a city comfortable in its own skin. Despite celebrating its 900th anniversary as a city this year, the fourth-biggest Dutch centre hasn’t turned its back on its small-town ways, rooted in its past as a Roman outpost. Daily activities still revolve around the medieval centre, where bikes rattle on cobblestones and the gentle flow of ancient canals sets the rhythm for an unhurried pace of life. The city has been hard at work in the lead up to its birthday, and there’s much to celebrate. In 2020, it completed the high-profile restoration of a major canal — aproject almost two decades in the making. Last year, two sites in the wider Utrecht province were added to the UNESCO World Heritage List. And in June, the citycentre ruins of…

TWO LOCAL PRODUCERS IN CALDANA, TUSCANY FRANTOIO SAN LUIGI In the silver-green olive groves brushing the foot of Caldana’s hills, this ecoconscious mill is the brainchild of Paolo Sabatini, who’s passionate about the land and its outstanding extra-virgin olive oil. Olives harvested at groves within a 30-mile radius of the mill are processed within 48 hours to retain maximum flavour, and the oil is extracted using renewable energy. The mill also sells aromatic oils infused with truffle, red pepper, oregano and rosemary. Try them at an oil tasting, together with a glass of Tuscan wine and a platter of salumi, cheese and olives. frantoiosanluigi.com QUINTO CANTO Naturopath, farmer and beekeeper Simone Bonucci is a great believer in nature’s healing powers. Here you can stock up on lavender, honey, oils, beeswax…

Get in touch inbox@natgeotraveller.co.uk Have a query about subscriptions? Get in touch at natgeotraveller@ subscription.co.uk or call 01858 438787 WIN A Chrome Hondo backpack worth £95! With a minimalist and functional design, this bag will see you through all your adventures. Internal pockets, including a padded laptop sleeve, and reflective panels for visibility make it a smart option for everyday commuting. A water- and abrasion-resistant nylon shell, comfortable shoulder harness and removable sternum strap mean it’s a great outdoors companion, too. chromeindustries.com STAR LETTER Adventure on your doorstep Having just returned from a ‘back-to-basics’ camping trip on the Pembrokeshire Coast, it was wonderful to see your Wales feature (In Pictures, September 2022), reminding us all what exceptional landscapes and environments we have in the UK. As someone who’s recently been…

Pristine rainforest and bountiful coffee regions, Pacific and Atlantic coastlines with untouched beaches, ancient ruins, captivating cities and a beguiling spirit… there are times when it seems like Colombia is one of the world’s bestkept secrets. Disney’s Encanto film last year gave it a helpful push, but the country has been gaining steam on its own for a while. From under a million visitors a year in 2005, to almost five million in 2019 before the Covid-19 pandemic hit, Colombia has, in just over a decade, emerged as one of the world’s most alluring destinations. Responsible and sustainable tourism have thankfully proved to be the cornerstone of this growth, with conservation and protection of its wildlife and heritage essential to this new-found popularity. And a new president, elected in June,…

South Koreans flock to Busan in the summer to sunbathe on the wide sands of Haeundae Beach, but seaside splendour isn’t all this city of historic, gastronomic and cultural treasures has to offer. Begin your visit in Seomyeon, Busan’s hopping downtown and central business district. Grab a bowl of kalguksu (knife-cut noodles) and soak up the atmosphere at Gijang Home-Made Noodle in Seomyeon Market, before exploring the vibrant alleys en route to nearby Jeonpo Cafe Street. This district of former workshops has been transformed into a hip area with coffee houses, intimate bars and speciality restaurants. Watch the afternoon slide by over a cappuccino at U:Dally, or stop by Beer Shop for a craft pint before getting your Korean barbecue fix at Yoonam Ju, a cosy eatery famous for its…

1 MONTANE POWER STRETCH PRO GRIPPY GLOVES You’ll want to keep your hands and nails protected from cuts and scrapes when gripping onto rocks, while also maintaining flexibility and dexterity. This pair of thin, stretchy and lightweight gloves fits the bill, notable for the enhanced silicone grip on the palm. They’re fast to dry and touchscreen compatible, too. £30. montane.com 2 MERRELL MOAB 3 Durability, grip and flexibility are essential qualities in coasteering footwear as climbers will often be navigating steep and slippery surfaces. These hiking shoes will see you through — they’re great all-rounders and have enhanced features for use in watersports. £120. merrell.com 3 FINISTERRE TEGO ROBE Impressively lightweight and packable compared to other bulkier models on the market, the Tego allows plenty of room for privacy while…

| SPACE| The most iconic images in space history have been ‘remastered’. A new book reveals what happened when a British imaging specialist turned his hand to humanity’s ultimate adventure. | ANIMALS | Inside the controversial plan to reintroduce cheetahs to India Imported African cheetahs are the first to roam India in decades, but can the big cats survive without ongoing human intervention? Critics of the project have their doubts. | SCIENCE | Can you really tell if someone is lying? Here’s what the experts say No growing noses — but physical signs of untruths aren’t unheard of. Here’s what those who specialise in detecting dishonesty look for.…

Leaping from his car, Al Ramirez grabs a spray can from the boot and furiously gets to work. “In the street, all you have is your reputation,” says the incensed graffiti artist, as he retouches one of his murals, recently defaced with dripping scrawl. “When someone paints over your work, it’s like spitting in your face.” Al, who’s on a mission to create the first guild of urban artists, is one of more than 400 artists in the Chilean port city of Valparaíso, where the authorities now accept graffiti as part of the city’s culture and appeal. Almost every shop front, house and pavement has been decorated to create one of the world’s largest unofficial open-air museums of street art. No wonder, then, graffitists are running out of space. Valpo,…

WHAT MAKES THE NORTH YORK MOORS GREAT FOR STARGAZING? It all comes down to light pollution. In today’s world, the view of the heavens has almost nearly gone but on the North York Moors, thick darkness reigns and you can find skies of thousands of stars, which just isn’t possible in the city. Some people visiting have never seen the Milky Way and it comes as a bit of an epiphany when they gaze at it. They stare at this river of light beaming overhead and for those who have never seen anything like it, it’s a jaw-dropping moment. WHERE ARE THE TOP PLACES IN THE NORTH YORK MOORS FOR STARS? Now that the North York Moors is an International Dark Sky Reserve and the subject of many surveys, we…

Tell us about this image. This photo was taken along the Jurassic Coast at Sidmouth, Devon. I was working on a feature alongside writer Ben Lerwill, who’d arranged to interview a local in the town’s Connaught Gardens, a good portrait backdrop. It also turned out to be the perfect spot for shooting the famous red cliffs that tower above Sidmouth seafront. It was a gloomy day, but as the scene had such good potential, I decided to hang around to see if things would improve. How did you achieve the shot? The image was shot on a Canon 5D with a 70- 200mm 2.8 lens. I love shooting landscapes on the 200mm because of the way it compresses the scene and pulls the background right into the frame. I also…

WHAT’S NEW • FOOD • ON THE TRAIL • WHERE TO STAY • FAMILY • INSIDE GUIDE • STAY AT HOME • BOOKS This is my wife dressed up as a La Catrina, an icon of the Day of the Dead, which takes place on 2 November each year. La Catrina juxtaposes the macabre with the elegant, representing how Mexicans perceive the afterlife. It’s our favourite tradition, and we always look for new costumes and locations in which to shoot. Here, she’s wearing a typical dress from the state of Chiapas in a field of cempasúchil (Mexican marigold), in the Central Mexican town of Calimaya. These flowers are traditionally used to decorate tombs, cemeteries and homes during the festival, and their scent was overwhelming. SERGIO CARRASCO • PHOTOGRAPHER @sca3226…

Nasjonalmuseet, Oslo Norway has a new king in the world of curation and, fittingly, it comes bearing a crown. An illuminated exhibition hall adorns the roof of Oslo’s National Museum, which became the largest museum in the Nordic region when it opened in June. A permanent collection comprising 6,500 objects chronicles the history of Norwegian art, from the near-millennium-old Baldishol Tapestry, discovered among the ruins of an old church, to works by Norway’s favourite expressionist, Edvard Munch, including his earliest version of The Scream. nasjonalmuseet.no Museum of Broadway, New York This November, the curtain finally comes up on the eagerly anticipated New York venue, which enwraps visitors in the vibrant, glamorous world of Broadway theatre. After an overview of how a thoroughfare once lined with car garages became the heart…

Sofia Hotel Balkan History wraps its arms around you in Sofia. Whether it’s Roman remains in the subway, Ottoman heritage dotted around the city or the more prevalent communist-era architecture looming over you, there’s no escaping the Bulgarian capital’s eye-catching grandeur. Part of the vast President’s Palace complex, the Sofia Hotel Balkan sits pretty right in the centre of the city — on one side of the 1956 palace a luxury hotel, on the other the president himself and the hourly changing of the guard. The oldest-preserved building in Sofia, the fourthcentury Rotunda Church of St George, sits in the courtyard; while excavations of the Sveta Nedelya Square in front of the hotel have revealed further layers of ancient Serdica. The classical exterior is equally matched by the interior —…

THE EXPERTS I’m a solo female traveller looking to spend two weeks backpacking in South America, my first time on the continent. Where should I go? Travelling solo in South America may sound daunting to some, but the backpacker trail is wellestablished, with plenty of friendly hostels and English-speaking tours. Of course, it’s a huge continent and two weeks isn’t long, so it’s best to focus on just one or two countries. Peru is a great starting point, bursting with historic cities and diverse landscapes. From Lima, head to Puerto Maldonado, gateway to the Amazon. Stay at the budget Tambopata Hostel and from there book an overnight jungle trip, sleeping in an off-grid eco-lodge and visiting one of the famous macaw clay licks. Next, head to vibrant Cusco where SAM…

WHAT’S THE STATE OF PLAY? Although there are many factors that can still affect the skiing industry, the season looks bright, according to Simon McIntyre, general manager – ski at Iglu, Britain’s largest independent skitravel agency. In the six weeks to mid-July, business was up 50% on last year, although cost-of-living fears were steering people towards less-expensive deals. “There are emerging trends, likely driven by the economy, with customers looking to Austria and Italy for better value,” says Simon. “Over three months, Italy, Austria and Bulgaria’s share of enquiries rose 15% compared with 2019. Average prices for Italy are 10% less than in France. “The cost of living hasn’t affected demand, but skiers are looking for extra value, be that half-board hotels or all-inclusive holidays with lift passes.” Iglu sells…