Innholdsfortegnelse for June 2022 i National Geographic Traveller (UK)

James March The food of Tunisia’s Cap Bon peninsula has taken influences from its Mediterranean cousins, but it’s a cuisine that’s very much its own. Explore the colourful souks, smoky cafes and busy coastal towns, and be sure to add a dash of harissa to everything. TUNISIA P.50 Ben Lerwill The pandemic left wildlife reserves floundering, so I arrived in South Africa not entirely sure what to expect. I departed feeling dazed by the experience and buoyed by the work that’s going into safeguarding the future. SOUTH AFRICA P.84 Alicia Miller I first came to the Douro Valley for the wine (the port, of course, is world-famous) and the epic scenery. Now, I return for the fabulous sweets, sleepy towns and the people — so warm, genuine and proud of…

It may be Canada’s political powerhouse, but under the surface Ottawa is simmering with vibrancy and adventure. Strike beyond the typical tourist route surrounding Parliament Hill and you’ll find verdant scenery, quirky museums, Indigenous experiences and a burgeoning food and drink scene. Come clock-off time, this is a city that knows how to have fun. No trip to Ottawa is complete without a visit to the National Gallery Of Canada, with its roll call of great paintings by the likes of Matisse, Van Gogh, Mondrian and Klimt. Don’t miss ornate Rideau Street Chapel: originally part of the Convent of Our Lady of the Sacred Heart, it was painstakingly relocated, piece by piece to the National Gallery, where it can be explored to the accompaniment of haunting music. Also worth checking…

| ANIMALS | How the UK’s red kites came back from the brink After centuries of persecution, the red kite seemed doomed. But thanks to a reintroduction, this spectacular and colourful bird of prey is thriving. Here’s how it happened — and what we can learn | HISTO | How local midwives mix Mayan heritage with Western medicine The fight to reduce maternal and infant deaths in Guatemala and Mexico is taking place in local communities | HISTORY | What can we learn from Istanbul’s 3,000 mosques? Faith, art and history converge at these places of worship. Here’s how architectural feats chronicle Istanbul’s history…

1 HARISSA This fiery scarlet paste, made from red chilli peppers, garlic, caraway, citrus and coriander, provides many Tunisian dishes with a welcome kick. 2 BRIK Watch out for the exploding egg yolk hidden inside these deepfried pastry triangles, typically filled with potato, cheese and onion, then drizzled in lemon juice. 3 OJJA MERGUEZ A Tunisian twist on shakshuka that’s heavy on the garlic and features spicy lamb merguez sausages. 4 LABLABI This hearty chickpea soup topped with a spoonful of harissa and a poached egg is a breakfast favourite during Tunisia’s surprisingly chilly winters. 5 SUN-DRIED TOMATOES Tunisia produces over a million tomatoes annually and the sunkissed climate of Cap Bon cultivates over half of these sweet delights.…

Scotch Ndlovu has been working in the same open-plan office for 27 years. It has the sky for a roof and covers more than 210sq miles, but he knows its ways and moods. He sees stories in its tawny, waist-high grass, hears tell-tale notes in its bird-chatter and insect-chirr. Right now, at 7am, the temperature is already pushing 30C and the scent of wild sage hangs on the land. Above our stationary Land Cruiser, a white-backed vulture perches on a dead acacia tree, its feathers lit by the rising sun. Scotch takes a long inhalation through his nose and tilts his head. “Elephants,” he smiles. “Just wait.” Within half a minute, the animals materialise from the bush in ones and twos, ears flapping and tails swishing, a herd of 30…

TELL US ABOUT TYPICAL HUNGARIAN FARE Hungarian dishes tend to include meat and dough. We do dough in every form, from baked to fried to boiled. We have lots of indigenous livestock, including grey cattle and mangalica pigs. And we use a lot of paprika, which was introduced by the Turks when they ruled. When I travel, I always take my Hungarian paprika with me. AND DRINKS? I could spend hours showing you the different kinds of alcohol we have! There are digestifs, aperitifs and wines from 22 regions. If you eat too much, there’s no better remedy than a shot of pálinka [fruit brandy] or Unicum [herbal liqueur]. HOW HAS THE FOOD SCENE CHANGED IN RECENT YEARS? There are fewer and fewer csárda — restaurants serving traditional food. That’s…

‘Scandinavia’ has become shorthand for many things this century — sleek interior design, TV crime dramas, patterned knitwear and cinnamon pastries to name but a few much-loved and imitated exports. But what lies at the heart of the oft-named ‘happiest place on earth’? Beyond man-made creations, it’s the awe-inspiring nature that truly defines the region — breathtaking mountains, pristine fjords and wild islands that keep loyal travellers coming back and initiate legions of new fans each year. Denmark, Norway and Sweden might be three very different countries, but there exists among its people a shared passion for outdoor adventures, come snow or dazzling sunshine. We’ve rounded up the best of them in this issue’s cover story (p.64). From oyster safaris on Denmark’s dramatic shoreline and wilderness camping in Norwegian national…

In winter, the reappearance of the Matariki constellation in the night sky heralds the beginning of the Māori New Year, which is a public holiday for the first time this year. From 21 June to 16 July, the country comes alive with feasts showcasing Indigenous cuisine, as well as art exhibitions, night markets and street parties. Celebrate among the country’s oldest Māori settlements in the Bay of Islands, mix stargazing with feasting at Mount Cook, or be dazzled by the light show in Christchurch. matarikifestival.org.nz There’s even the chance to trace the Maori story right back to its roots. It’s been nearly 1,000 years since Polynesian explorer Kupe settled at Hokianga, an area north of Auckland, an arrival that marked the beginning of the Māori people on these newly found…

Japan is famous for its otsumami, meaning ‘the nibbles you have while drinking’, which come in many forms: hot or cold, raw or cooked, meat, fish or plant-based, with different varieties found across the country. While Osaka’s Dotonbori district is the place to seek out takoyaki octopus balls and okonomiyaki pancakes, the city of Fukuoka, on Kyushu, my native island, is the home of yakitori (skewered chicken) and yatai (street food stalls) serving an array of other snacks. Japan’s third-largest island, Kyushu, is known as ‘food island’, thanks to its abundant produce. Kyushu has fertile soil and a climate that’s just right for growing fruit and vegetables. It’s also known for its excellent seafood. Seasonality is at the core of Japanese cuisine and food culture, too. We even have a…

Palacio Villapanés A renovated 18th-century palace, this 50-room hotel achieves a marriage of contrasts: minimalist design choices are displayed across a baroque canvas, resulting in a playful boutique bolthole that’s both inviting and utterly sumptuous. Its carriage-height front doors first opened in 2009; today, they usher guests into a calming patio of potted palms and painted tiles. The rooftop has been converted into a sun terrace, complete with plunge pool. Spacious rooms and suites have soaring ceilings and woodpanelling, and modern comforts including rain showers. From €250 (£210), B&B. palaciovillapanes.com Hotel Alfonso XIII This prestigious hotel has been impressing dignitaries, celebrities and travellers alike with its show-stopping Andalucian design and old-world grandeur since 1929, when it was unveiled as part of the Ibero-American Exposition. Showcasing brightly coloured azulejo tiles from…

Stefanie is coowner of C’est Bon Cooking, which offers food tours and cookery classes based around Canadian produce. cestboncooking.ca CORAZÓN DE MAÍZ This husband-and-wife team from Mexico City make Ottawa’s best tacos in a corner of ByWard Market. Marianna is a trained chef and the incredible garlic jalapeño salsa is her grandmother’s recipe. 55 ByWard Market Square COPPER SPIRITS AND SIGHTS This is where locals go for drinks with a view: the tallest rooftop bar in the city (atop the Andaz Ottawa ByWard Market), offering 360-degree views spanning Downtown, the river and neighbouring Gatineau. hyatt.com TAVERN AT THE GALLERY This new al fresco restaurant can be found at the National Gallery of Canada but it’s hidden away. It’s a great spot for lunches, with salads and pizza. There’s another location,…

GO OFF-GRID Just outside Machynlleth, Wales, Eco Retreats has five off-grid yurt camps (each has fresh spring water on tap and wood-fired baths) spread over 50 acres in the Dyfi Forest. There are mountainbiking trails and walks nearby, including the route up to Cader Idris in southern Snowdonia. From £275 for two nights for two sharing (up to two children free). ecoretreats.co.uk CYCLE SUSTAINABLY Travel as a foot passenger with your bike on the ferry from Newhaven to Dieppe then cycle the Véloroute du Lin between Pourville sur Mer and Fécamp. This 50-mile route is bookended by railway stations at Dieppe and Fécamp. Stay just off-route at Le Clos des Ifs, from €65 (£60), B&B. Ferries from €50 (£42) return per adult including bike. francevelotourisme.com dfds.com GO FAR WITHOUT FLYING…

When I saw the bush, I could hardly contain my delight. It rose from the grainy sweep of sand before me like a towering will-o’-thewisp, part-fern, part-wishful phantasm. Shade pooled from its roots in delicious, wasteful abandon. Could it be real? For several hours, I’d been cycling north through the exposed desert valleys of Hormozgan Province in southern Iran, searching for shelter. There were no buildings to be found here, no landmarks, houses or trees; nothing to ruffle the smooth brow of the horizon except featureless scrubland and thorn. Until now. Reaching the patch of undergrowth, I collapsed under its shadowed canopy almost mad with joy and relief. I removed my helmet, shook the sweat from my hair and stretched out on the bracken to sleep. “Hijab!” The cry startled…

FOOD Eight of the best sandwiches from around the world From a five-cheese Texan special to Filipino-style corned beef MOROCCO The inside guide to Tangier, Morocco’s buzzy port city Discover a vibrant medina, lavish palaces and a rich cafe culture NEW ORLEANS Where to get the best gumbo Gumbo is a rare find on UK menus, but take a trip to the Big Easy and you’ll be spoiled for choice FOOD Cookbook author Zuza Zak’s best Polish Easter dishes Why not try making eggs with caviar or rye soup in a bread bowl PHOTOGRAPHY Francesco Lastrucci on island life in the Dominican Republic The photographer discusses his recent assignment for the magazine BOOKS Five of the best new cookbooks for spring Go on a journey through world cuisine, from Portugal…

For many, the vision of paradise is a river running through a valley, leading to lush pastures and jewel-like lakes, backed by forests, peaks and glistening glaciers. Nowhere does this better than Switzerland’s Jungfrau Region in the Bernese Alps, where Mother Nature seems to have drawn the landscape with a clean and confident hand — just take the region’s mythical mountain trio, the Eiger (the Ogre), Mönch (the Monk) and Jungfrau (the Virgin), for example. Here, farmers still bring their bell-swinging cattle down to graze in summer meadows, and dark-timber villages are dwarfed by their backdrop. Where some will take one look at these savagely lovely mountains and shrug in defeat because they appear so impenetrable, the Swiss have harnessed them with zeal. Topnotch restaurants perched in the peaks are…

Perched on a hill with a ringside seat of Mount Etna’s smouldering beauty, Castiglione di Sicilia is one of the Borghi più Belli d’Italia, making it officially one of Italy’s prettiest villages. It’s easy to see why: narrow alleys helter-skelter past lava-stone piazzas, baroque churches and basilicas until they reach the ruins of Castello di Lauria. But it’s not only the scenery that punches well above its weight. The grapes that thrive in these fertile, lava-fed soils have explosive aromas, and, despite having been grown here for thousands of years, have only recently been given the attention they deserve. Companies such as ITS ITALY are shining a light on the village’s ageold, wine-making producers and traditions. Azienda Vitivinicola Vigneti Vecchio is one example: grown in volcanic sand, their gnarly, alberello-trained…

14 JUNE 2022 — LIVE IN LONDON HOW TO PLAN THE ULTIMATE SAILING TRIP Whether you’re looking to set sail in the Mediterranean or dreaming of tropical waters, join us and a panel of sailing experts for our first live event since the pandemic began WHERE: Arboretum, 2a Charing Cross Road London WC2H 0HF TIME: 19.00–20.00  PRICE: £10 plus booking fee, includes drinks and snacks SPONSORED BY Plotting a Caribbean itinerary If your sailing dream involves white, sandy beaches on tropical islands, colourful harbours and coral reefs, this event will help you turn it into reality. You could visit the real-life inspiration behind Treasure Island in the British Virgin Islands, dive wrecks in the Bahamas and snorkel through the clear blue waters of St Martin. Alternatively, explore the Mayan ruins…

Get in touch inbox@natgeotraveller.co.uk Have a query about subscriptions? Get in touch at natgeotraveller@subscription.co.uk or call 01858 438787 WIN Lightweight, waterproof and made from recycled materials, this new 14L backpack is a versatile choice. There’s a G-clip for quick access, compartments for essentials, including a 13-inch laptop section, and it also comes in a range of colours. It’s particularly good for cyclists, too, with a cushioned back and ergonomically designed straps. stubbleandco.com STAR LETTER Memory lane I was delighted to read about Bristol in National Geographic Traveller (March 2022). The pandemic separated me from the city and this was a lovely reminder, bringing back many fond memories of living, holidaying and working there. I grew up in nearby Newport and always looked up to Bristol, which felt like a more…

SNAPSHOT Marie Nojki, Nakuru, Kenya In the village of Eburru, in the clay hills of Nakuru County, Marie picks pyrethrum flowers. They might look delicate with their bright petals, but the bloom is known as the ‘flower of death’ — a daisy imbued with poisonous powers. They’re considered non-toxic to humans, but are lethal to insect pests. Marie collects the flowers by hand, after which the heads are dried and crushed to produce pyrethrin, a non-synthetic insecticide that’s used in organic farming around the world. vitofusco.com @vitofusco…

19-20 AUGUST BEERVANA Getting underway in the capital, Wellington, this summer is New Zealand’s biggest beer festival. Expect a two-day celebration of all things ale, with themed bars, silent discos, beer cocktails and plenty of good food. beervana.co.nz 29 SEPTEMBER-16 OCTOBER WORLD OF WEARABLEART Fashionistas will be heading to Wellington for an extravaganza of fashion and theatre this September, as the World of WearableArt pairs cutting-edge designs with dance and aerial performances. worldofwearableart.com 8 OCTOBER-12 NOVEMBER RUGBY WORLD CUP The rugby world’s eyes will be on New Zealand later this year, with the women’s Rugby World Cup kicking off in October. Matches will be held in Auckland and Whangarei, both on the North Island. rugbyworldcup.com 20 JULY-20 AUGUST 2023 FIFA WOMEN’S WORLD CUP Jointly hosted by Australia and New Zealand,…

CHAMPON Tonkotsu ramen is Kyushu’s culinary calling card, but champon is also not to be missed. Famous in Nagasaki, this flavourful noodle dish is topped with various fried ingredients, such as pork belly, seafood and vegetables. CHICKEN NANBAN A classic example of what we call ‘yoshoku’, or Western-influenced cuisine, this completely addictive fried chicken is dipped in sweet and sour sauce before being topped with tartare sauce. YOBUKO IKA The town of Yobuko is known for its fish market, particularly for the ika — translucent squid — sold there. Sweet and crunchy, it’s best enjoyed sashimi-style, and restaurants will usually cook the tentacles as tempura afterwards.…

This year’s winner of Academy Award for Best Animated Feature, the enchanting Disney movie Encanto shines a light on the colourful, cultural highlights of Colombia. It might not instantly spring to mind as an obvious destination for a family adventure, but Colombia brims with diverse experiences. Embrace the outdoors The mountainous Cocora Valley is best accessed via the heritage town of Salento — the inspiration for a number of locations in Encanto. Part of the Los Nevados National Natural Park, the valley is threaded with trails and dotted with campsites, and is adrenaline junkie terrain, with mountain-biking and horse-riding popular pursuits. Andean Trails offers a five-day trekking tour of the Valle Cocora from £946 per person, including all entrance fees and an expert guide. parquesnacionales.gov.co andeantrails.co.uk Walk on the wild…

1 YETI TUNDRA COOL BOX Keep drinks and snacks fresh in this cool box from Yeti — the cult US brand knows how to keep things cool on scorching days. At 10.4kg, it’s not one to transport too far afield, but its durable design means it’s one you’ll keep forever. Extra-thick walls provide up to two inches of insulation for unmatched coolness, and it can hold the equivalent of 28 cans or 15kg of ice. £300. uk.yeti.com 2 OAKLEY SPLIT SHOT SUNGLASSES Keep sun and sea spray out of your eyes with these top-of-the-range lenses from Oakley, designed for sailors. Prizm technology enhances colour, contrast and detail, while the integrated leash system and no-slip nosepad offer added security. Smartly designed with a high-wrap frame, they also come with a water-resistant…

What kickstarted your career as an adventurer? I never expected this to become a living — it happened organically. Throughout university, I’d scrape together whatever I could to do some sort of trip during the summer, booking the most affordable flight to a city I’d never heard of. I fell in love with the places in between, the empty places. After I graduated, I flew into Ulaanbaatar, the capital of Mongolia, and, almost on a whim, decided to cycle across the Gobi Desert. It was hot, and I snapped a muscle in my leg; everything that could go wrong did — but during those two weeks something clicked: I saw how great travelling under your own steam was. You get to be in the middle of nowhere, completely self-sufficient, meeting…

1 NORWAY LIVING ON THE EDGE The northerly isle of Senja offers a distillation of Norway’s charms: cinematic coastal islets, ancient Viking history, challenging hikes, and passionate local adventurers and artists. It’s less well known to travellers than the Lofoten Islands but equally as spectacular to explore. Words: Sarah Marshall Clouds wobble and mountain peaks quiver as I glide silently along the fjord, my paddle slicing through their reflections with butter-soft ease. With every stroke I slip further into a sleepy rhythm, conscious I’m the only moving part in a scene that’s remarkably still. Daily paddles are a form of meditation for kayak instructor Hege Dekkerhus, who escaped to the island of Senja several years ago, leaving a stressful life in the city behind. In an environment dominated by steep mountains…

APAKI PORK Minoan artists painted beautiful images of boar-hunters on the walls of the island’s palaces. For Cretans, pigs have been nose-to-tail eating ever since. Apaki — thin strips of pork stored in vinegar then salted, peppered and smoked over olive wood — is a local delicacy that pairs perfectly with mashed walnuts, red bell pepper, herbs and olive oil. AEGEAN SEA BREAM WITH YAHNEE Potatoes took some time to travel from the New World on to Cretan tables, but today they’re included in many traditional dishes. Yahnee — a cornucopia of potatoes, onions, tomatoes and olive oil — is just such a dish, made even richer with staka (goat’s or sheep’s milk curd-butter). Oregano and lemon juice add a subtle undercurrent to the delicate flavour of the Aegean sea…

“Bloody cheap and terrible quality,” declares my straight-talking guide, Andrea Wurmb, as she arrives at our meeting point, a wine kiosk in the Blaha Lujza Square metro station. I’m no oenophile, but given that the wine at this kiosk is dispensed from a pair of plastic vats into recycled soft-drinks bottles, I suspect Andrea’s not just being a wine snob. She leads me away towards the exit, past a range of stalls selling everything from toasters to bunches of flowers. “Lots of locals come here to buy things because the prices are far lower than on the high street — but only alcoholics would buy that wine,” she says, bluntly. “I’ll find you a proper wine shop.” We climb the steps back to street level, emerging like moles into the…

In between the Bay of Biscay and the Cantabrian Mountains is Asturias, a green-blue patch of northern Spain that’s best experienced outdoors. Think spotting bear cubs snuffling about in spring, surfing some of the region’s 200 beaches in summer or hiking through the Peloño Forest Nature Reserve in autumn before feasting on hearty fabada bean stew. Rubicund faces and robust spirits abound here — it’s evident in the fishermen hauling in their catch at Puerto de Vega and Avilés markets and in the farmers working the land in the shadow of the Picos de Europa mountain range. 1 PICOS OF THE PARKS There are seven UNESCO Biosphere Reserves packed into this principality. Chief among them is Picos de Europa National Park, which was created in 1918. This hikers’ hinterland is laced…

Sooner or later, everywhere has its moment. A poll for Which? magazine in 2020 named Cleethorpes as one of the worst seaside destinations in the UK; the survey’s respondents were resolutely unmoved by the charms of the Lincolnshire town. This didn’t go down well with local MP Martin Vickers. “Going by the thousands of visitors who come to Cleethorpes and keep returning, they have a different judgement,” he said. Vickers wasn’t the town’s only cheerleader. In February 2022, it was revealed that big-name designer Wayne Hemingway had a plan to turn the town into a fashionable resort. “Cleethorpes,” he said, “has probably got more opportunity than any other place I’ve worked before.” Is opportunity what comes to mind when you think of the British seaside? Or is it a 99…

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