Innholdsfortegnelse for July - August 2021 i National Geographic Traveller (UK)

Nicky Evans Water is a fact of life in the Netherlands, nowhere more so than in Zeeland. Many of the province’s restaurants were closed during my visit, but eating fresh, barbecued lobster at the roadside was one of those experiences that I’ll cherish. ZEELAND P.56 Aaron Millar Taking an Airstream trailer on an American road trip has long been a dream of mine — they’re the perfect match for the vast landscapes of Utah. I expected adventure and incredible views, but the driving itself was just as spectacular. UTAH P.88 David Whitley Following Australia’s Murray River turned into a journey that told the story of a nation — I learned about everything from Aboriginal culture and wildlife to wool industry heritage and environmental protection. AUSTRALIA P.102 Francesco Lastrucci Exploring the…

I met Cat on a cold day on Brighton Beach — it was during lockdown and the beach was quiet, except for Cat (and her dog waiting patiently on the shore). Originally from Glasgow, Cat has lived in Brighton for more than 15 years, working as a community nurse with patients living with HIV. She told me she finds solace in her open-water swims, having graduated from ‘summer-only’ dips to year-round swims with no wetsuit.…

CASTLE KNIGHTS Admire the ruins of Usk Castle from any of seven different cabins. These range from the Shepherds Cabin (sleeping two) to the Yurt and the fortress-like Glyndwr Fort (both sleeping four) and include cosy beds and furniture. There’s also a communal kitchen and hire bikes. HOW TO DO IT: From £80 a night. castleknights.co.uk HIDDEN VALLEY YURTS Set in a wooded valley amid wildflower meadows are five yurts — three sleeping seven, two sleeping five — and a spruced-up cricket pavilion that’s now a two-bed bolthole. All have proper, sturdy beds. There’s also a campfire nook and a wood-fired-pizza oven. HOW TO DO IT: From £375 for three nights. hiddenvalleyyurts.co.uk PENHEIN GLAMPING A working farm near Chepstow sets the scene for this glampsite and its clutch of Iranian…

INFINITY HOUSE: AN ENDLESS VIEW Expect serious living room envy in this showcase of beautiful abodes around the world. There are also profiles from architects and designers, who share their insights into building these high-class homes. (The Images Publishing Group, RRP: £35) STONE AGE: ANCIENT CASTLES OF EUROPE Photographer Frédéric Chaubin has turned his lens to the castles of Europe in this new book. It also highlights how the fortresses’ simple geometry went on to shape much of Europe’s architectural heritage. (Taschen, RRP: £50) STAY WILD This new book is a gloriously green ramble through Canopy & Stars’ most spectacular rural getaways, from tents to treehouses. It also celebrates the joy of nature, with tips on how we can embrace our wild side. (Gestalten and Canopy & Stars, RRP: £35)…

CODDU ECCHJU Built to hold the dead of the nearby village of La Prisgiona, the ‘Giants’ Tomb’ of Coddu Ecchju dates as far back as 1800 BC. A series of upright stones with slabs laid across the top form a burial corridor, and a centrepiece stele — a sort of huge headstone — has a small opening where offerings were placed. LA PRISGIONA This complex contains the extensive remains of La Prisgiona village, first occupied in 1400 BC. Craftsmen’s huts are set around the nuraghe, a central keep with two towers that probably formed the fortified residence of village leaders. CHURCH OF SAN SIMPLICIO The 11th-century Church of San Simplicio in Olbia stands on the site of an early-Christian church that was said to mark the spot where the bishop…

INTER SCALDES, KRUININGEN Not only has chef-patron Jannis Brevet scaled the heights of haute cuisine (Inter Scaldes holds three Michelin stars), he’s also an artist. His paintings and sculptures decorate this manor house hotel and restaurant, which he runs with his wife — and maître d’ — Claudia. Picture-perfect dishes include Dutch shrimp with sea buckthorn, mandarin and hazelnut, and octopus carpaccio with sea banana, lavender and green apple. His motto: nothing is as difficult as simple cooking. interscaldes.nl BRASSERIE VLUCHTHAVEN, BRUINISSE Dirk-Pieter Arkenbout’s seafood restaurant, housed in a former ferry house, has waterside views from its vine-covered terrace and a homely feel. The emphasis is on simple, organic ingredients (many foraged locally) and pure flavours. Try specialities such as razor clams, oysters and — of course — Eastern Scheldt…

JAPAN 1 WALKING THE KUMANO KODO Follow the ancient pilgrimage path that cuts through the silent, mossy mountains of Kii, south of Kyoto, to discover Shinto shrines, steaming hot springs and sacred waterfalls — a landscape where nature, body and spirit commune in harmony. Words: Aaron Millar The Shugendo monk stands on the last summit ridge of the Kumano Kodo and blows his Hora conch shell to the wilds. He’s dressed in immaculate white Suzukaki robes, straw sandals and a woven cypress Minachi-gasa hat. The sound is earthy, like an animal call, but hollow, too, like wind passing through the forest. He’s a Yamabushi, a holy man of the mountains. The sound lasts only an instant, but I’ll remember it for the rest of my life. I’m here to walk the…

1 WITNESS OTHERWORLDLY LANDSCAPES TSAVO EAST & WEST Tsavo East is an arid expanse, recognisable for its paprika-red volcanic soil. The section below the Galana River is a great place to listen to the twitter of the Tsavo sunbird, among 500 other avian species. 2 MEET THE MAASAI MAASAI MARA Known globally for their distinctive red and multicoloured robes, the Maasai have retained most of their traditions and culture. They’re a nomadic people, moving around each season to allow grass to regrow. 3 SEE THE SKY TURN PINK LAKE NAKURU Home to the greatest bird show on the planet, Lake Nakuru is the place to see both the lesser flamingo, with its deep red bill, and the taller greater flamingo. Up to a million gather around the shore, creating a spectacular…

Lapped by bright-blue waters and whipped by Atlantic winds, Cabarete has made a name for itself as a hub for surfing, windsurfing and kitesurfing. It’s developed a Caribbean-hippy identity over the years, blessed as it is with paradisiacal beaches fringed by lush forest. Further along the coast is the laid-back town of Río San Juan, with its mangroves and secluded coves. Rich biodiversity and relatively limited tourism development have helped make it one of the country’s foremost eco-destinations. On the border of the Puerto Plata and Monte Cristi provinces, Punta Rucia is sheltered by a sandbank, overlooked by mountains and has a rich submarine ecosystem. The beach here is relatively uncrowded, save for the cluster of kiosks serving fresh fish in the shade of the palms. At sunset, people often…

Getting there & around British Airways and Virgin Atlantic fly nonstop from Heathrow to Johannesburg. One-stop flights are also available from the UK with airlines including Air France, Lufthansa and Emirates. ba.com virgin-atlantic.com airfrance.co.uk lufthansa.com emirates.com Average flight time: 11h. Use a hire car or Uber to get around the city, although it’s best to use the Gautrain or a registered taxi to get to and from the airport. Inner-city areas are best explored with a guide, on a walking or cycling tour. Excellent options are Past Experiences and Joburg 360. pastexperiences.co.za joburg360.com When to go Johannesburg is beautiful in and around October when the jacaranda trees are in bloom. The city has pleasant weather all year round. Summer (December-February) temperatures hover around 26C, with occasional storms. Winters (June-August) are…

If there’s one thing that lockdown has deprived us of above all else, it’s adventure. And I don’t mean scaling sheer rock faces or trekking across deserts, just the literal dictionary definition: an unusual or exciting experience. Life since the coronavirus outbreak has been both hard and humdrum, but with more travel corridors set to open and vaccination programmes continuing apace, at least we can start planning in earnest. Research from Mintel in May found that almost one in five UK travellers is currently gearing up for ‘a trip of a lifetime’ when the pandemic abates — nearly double the number who were making such plans in 2019. Quite what those trips will be we don’t know, but our cover story this issue (p.70) will hopefully offer you some inspiration…

CASA CACAO Part chocolate factory, part hotel, Casa Cacao is the realisation of chef Jordi Roca’s dream of opening a site dedicated to a bean-to-bar chocolate experience. Opened in February 2020 on a quiet street off Plaça Catalunya in Girona’s old town, the hotel is a temple to the dark stuff. From the street, passersby peer into the glass-fronted chocolate factory. Inside, is a shop-cum-cafe where you can sample chocolate from six different places of origin, as well as colourful bonbons with imaginative fillings and drinking chocolate on tap. Spread across three floors upstairs are 15 spacious suites, as well as indoor-outdoor rooftop lounge La Terrassa, which overlooks the old town. Each suite is, naturally, decked out in cocoa tones, and features ceramics and furnishings made by local artisans. The…

Bold architecture, avant-garde art and a raft of worldclass galleries — Basel is a city equally busy making cultural waves as it is at the helm of the country’s biotech and pharmaceutical industries. Given its riverside location, at the point where Switzerland, Germany and France converge, it also embraces the great outdoors and has a food scene that dives into creative waters. Before all that, however, a freshly roasted coffee is order of the morning at retro-flavoured CAFÉ FRÜHLING in the riverfront Kleinbasel neighbourhood. Near here, the medieval MIDDLE BRIDGE leaps across the Rhine to Altstadt Grossbasel, where history is writ large across the BASEL MINSTER, with its spires and chevron-tiled roof. Just south is the red sandstone BASEL TOWN HALL, giving way to arcades festooned with frolicking cherubs. cafefruhling.ch…

Why go Follow the creative crumb trail across the South West and it’ll lead you to Frome (rhymes with ‘room’), a market town packed with independent shops, start-ups and small galleries. But it’s not just what’s within Frome’s listed buildings that draws visitors to its hilly streets. Half an hour’s drive from Bath, Frome is the ideal jumping-off point for exploring the Somerset scenery, whether it’s kayaking on the River Frome or walking in the Mendip Hills. Linger in town a little longer, though, and you’ll find new restaurants and exhibitions set to make this one of England’s coolest enclaves. discoverfrome.co.uk What to do Frome is full of enticing indie shops: slip into rustic florist Bramble & Wild for fresh bouquets before heading to Ground, a working studio selling handmade…

1 RIUT EASY-CLEAN 15-INCH LAPTOP BACKPACK Created by a small British designer, this laptop bag is the perfect place to store your gadgets. For security, all the zips are against your back when worn, and it’s also designed for easy cleaning inside and out. It even has shoulder strap clips for your mask and hand sanitiser. RRP: £129. riut.co.uk 2 LOGITECH K780 MULTI-DEVICE WIRELESS KEYBOARD Planning to work while travelling? Laptops can be cumbersome, but a wireless keyboard that connects with Bluetooth-enabled devices is a great compromise. There are three Bluetooth channels, so you can connect multiple devices at once for easy switching. RRP: £79.99. logitech.com 3 AMAZON FIRE HD 8 PLUS – 32GB The latest tablet from Amazon adds wireless charging. The 2.0 GHz quad-core processor and 3GB of…

SPONSORED BY For the 10th year running, National Geographic Traveller is searching for the UK and Ireland’s next great travel photographer. Submit your images in up to six categories before 4 July to be in the running for incredible prizes and the chance to see your work in our pages LAST CHANCE TO ENTER ENTER NOW  NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.CO.UK/COMPETITIONS THE PRIZES GRAND PRIZE One grand prize winner will receive a NIKON Z 6II MIRRORLESS CAMERA WITH A 24-70MM F/4 LENS worth £2,549. Professional-grade features include a massive 24.5MP FX-format CMOS image sensor, dual card slots and 4K video capacity. nikon.co.uk Use it to capture the spellbinding scenery on a four-night NORTHERN LIGHTS TOUR OF SWEDISH LAPLAND with DISCOVER THE WORLD. Flying from the UK, this adventure for two combines three nights in…

FOR NATURE: SPARGI This island in the Maddalena archipelago has granite coves and dense vegetation. There’s also good diving (including a Roman wreck) and rich birdlife on the islet of Spargiotto. Take the boat from Palau or La Maddalena. FOR THE BEACH: BUDELLI This tiny isle is home to the striking Spiaggia Rosa, whose pink sands are created by fragments of red coral. In the past, so many tourists collected sand that the hue began to fade; now you have to follow a footpath behind the beach. Take the boat from Palau or La Maddalena. FOR HISTORY: TAVOLARA In the early 1800s, the Bertoleoni family declared this a separate kingdom. The cemetery contains the grave of ‘King Paolo I’. Today it’s a marine reserve popular with divers. Take the ferry…

WINDSURFING & SUP You’ll find a distinct east-west divide at Porto Pollo. The bay’s eastern part sees side-offshore winds and calm water, and as such is popular for windsurfing. If you’re a beginner, rent a wide, super-steady board and arrange a lesson or two. You’ll start on a ‘simulator’ (a board set into the beach itself) and should quickly get the hang of how to steer, tack and jibe. If you’d prefer something even simpler, rent a stand-up paddleboard (SUP), which is perfect for hunting for hidden coves along the coastline. KITESURFING The western section of Porto Pollo is broader and hit by side-onshore winds, which can make the sea a little choppy, but it’s those swells and ripples that make it such a perfect playground for kitesurfers. Harnessed to…

1 SMOKED SEA SALT One of four varieties Zeeuwsche Zoute produces. Its intense smoky flavour lends a barbecue aroma to dishes such as baba ganoush. 2 BOLUS Don’t leave without trying one of these sweet and sticky delicacies: a local twist on cinnamon rolls. 3 KIBBELING The Dutch version of fish and chips — you’ll find these fresh, lightly battered fish pieces on sale in Zeeland’s seaside shacks. 4 SEAWEED CRISPS Jan Kruijsse’s moreish seaweed crisps combine the texture of prawn crackers with the briny flavour of the sea that Zeelanders seem to love. 5 MUSSELS In season from July to April, mussels are big in Zeeland — over 90 million tonnes of this ‘black gold’ leaves the fishing town of Yerseke annually.…

1 MOUNTAIN BIKING IN GALLOWAY Explore Galloway Forest Park with a ride along the Big Country Route, a 36-mile circuit that takes 3.5 to 7 hours. It runs along minor public and forest roads, with long climbs and sharp descents. Rewards include views of hills and lochs, including Loch Trool and Loch Dee. Start at the Glentrool Visitor Centre (which serves good food year-round), then head towards the southernmost point at Minnigaff, then back around in a loop. TO TACKLE THIS, WEAR: Tropicfeel’s Jungle Shoes, which have both a strong grip and sock-like feel, making them ideal for swapping between cycling and forest walks. They also dry quickly, so you can even take a dip in a loch. (From £88) 2 HIKING IN SNOWDONIA At 3,600ft above sea level, Snowdon…

IN NUMBERS TOKYO 2020 1964 The year Tokyo last hosted the Summer Olympics 23 July The date of the opening ceremony, with the Games then closing on 8 August. The Paralympic Games kick off on 24 August $15.4 billion The total estimated cost of the Games (£11.2bn), with an extra $900m (£657m) secured for Covid-19 countermeasures 339 The number of events taking place across 33 sports in 43 venues. This year sees five new sports: karate, skateboarding, surfing, sport climbing and baseball/softball 100% The percentage of electricity derived from renewable energy that will be used at the Olympic and Paralympic venues MELBOURNE hosted the 1956 Summer Olympics, but the equestrian events were held in STOCKHOLM due to Australian quarantine rules To date, there have been 28 modern Summer Olympic Games…

GET IN TOUCH inbox@natgeotraveller.co.uk Have a query about subscriptions? Get in touch at natgeotraveller@subscriptionhelpline.co.uk or call 01293 312166 WIN A pair of Overlook shoes from Danner worth £128! Suitable for both the city and the great outdoors, the Overlook is the ultimate piece of versatile, durable footwear. Not only is the upper part of the shoe made from a water-resistant, super-strong knit, but the dual-density midsole also provides all-important stability around the edges and comfort in the middle. Triangular lugs on the outsole offer maximum grip on a variety of surfaces, from pavements to sand. danner.com STAR LETTER Best foot forward I thoroughly enjoyed your piece on Spain’s long-distance walking routes in the June issue’s cover story. I spent a summer in Valencia two years ago and fell in love…

In Singapore it’s very common to greet each other with “Are you hungry?” or “Shall we get some food?” rather than “Hello, how are you?”. We live by our stomachs and are very proud of it, too. Singapore is a hub for all sorts of cuisines. The Peranakan Chinese or Straits-born Chinese are the descendants of immigrants from the southern provinces of China, who settled in Malaysia and Singapore. Their unique fusion food combines Chinese with influences from Malay, Indian, Thai, Indonesian, Dutch, Portuguese and, of course, English cuisine. Peranakan men refer to themselves as ‘Baba’ (Uncle), while women are ‘Nonya’ (Auntie). It’s no surprise the cuisine is called Nonya after the women: the matriarchal recipes are passed down from generation to generation and every woman is expected to master…

HOLZPARK KLYBECK Crammed with colourful studios, bars, food pop-ups and workshops, this temporary-use island hosts theatrical, musical and cultural events. A new arts space set in a 1950s ship is set to open there. holzpark-klybeck.ch URBAN ART – BASEL CITY TOUR This urban art and graffiti tour is led by artists and experts from the scene. I recommend seeking out the 25 ‘Space Invaders’ dotted across the city by French street artist Invader. basel.com ARTSTÜBLI Located in Basel’s historic Market Hall, my gallery is a platform for showcasing the many contemporary facets of urban art and culture — from graffiti to street art. It also hosts events.…

JBL CLIP 4 This Bluetooth speaker packs quite a bass punch for its size. It’s waterproof and dustproof and will stream audio from your phone for 10 hours between charges. RRP: £49.99. uk.jbl.com WF-1000XM3 WIRELESS NOISE CANCELLING EARBUD HEADPHONES These comfortable, dual microphones earbuds deliver impressive noise-cancellation on the go. RRP: £220. sony.co.uk APPLE WATCH SERIES 6 As well as all the navigation, communications and fitness-tracking functions you’d expect, the Series 6 also has a blood-oxygen saturation monitor. RRP: £379. apple.com…

When I moved to New York I was surprised by how many residents of the city told me they could teach me something. The lessons started on the day I arrived in 2014. I’m still receiving daily tips. During the time I spent researching my book, New Yorkers, I received a lot of practical New York lessons: how to recycle cans, how to steal a car, how to walk along the crowded sidewalks without bumping into anyone. But often the lessons were more profound: how to be compassionate, how to live artfully, how to lead an uncompromising life. The advice may have been particular to this city, but a life lived well in New York was an accomplishment like no other. Many of my interviewees told me I’d missed the…

Sardinia has a wildness about it. The Italian island’s north-east corner has craggy mountains and granite cliffs, and in the heat of summer its landscape feels dry enough to shatter beneath your feet like pane carasau, a crispy local flatbread. The wind can blow hard, whipping through the corridor between the northern tip of the island and nearby Corsica. And it’s not difficult to find isolation: Sardinia’s population density is just a third of the national average. All this makes for a special break. The windy bay of Porto Pollo attracts watersports enthusiasts from all over the world, while the Maddalena archipelago offers stunning coastal hikes. And, for all the wildness, there’s culture, history and relaxation to be found here, too. The atmospheric towns of San Pantaleo, La Maddalena and…

MORNING Start the day with a rummage into Sardinia’s past. Much of the island’s rich archaeology dates to the Nuragic people, who lived here from 1500 BC until Roman occupation in 238 BC. There are 7,000 Nuragic sites in total, ranging from burial sites to mysterious conical towers called nuraghe, whose function isn’t known for sure, but which experts believe were temples, fortifications or rulers’ homes. You’ll find seven sites at Arzachena (combined ticket €25 [£21] or €7 [£6] per individual site), including an extensive complex of buildings at Nuraghe La Prisgiona, and the Giants’ Tomb of Coddu Vecchiu, where the dead of La Prisgiona were buried. You can even touch the stones, enter the towers and walk in footsteps that ring through the millennia. Go early to avoid the…

Getting there & around Qatar Airways, Singapore Airlines and Cathay Pacific are among the airlines offering flights from Heathrow and Manchester to logical start points Sydney and Melbourne and end point Adelaide. qatarairways.com, singaporeair.com, cathaypacific.com Average flight time: 24hrs. A fortnight’s car hire, from Sydney to Adelaide, will cost from £350. rentalcars.com When to go September to November (spring) and March to May (autumn) see pleasant temperatures averaging 12-22C, while summers can be uncomfortably hot. Places mentioned Canoe the Murray. canoethemurray.com.au Bonegilla Migrant Experience. bonegilla.org.au Port of Echuca. portofechuca.org.au Chateau Mildura. chateaumildura.com.au Murray Offroad Adventures. murrayoffroadadventures.com.au Mungo Guided Tours. mungoguidedtours.com Canoe the Coorong. canoethecoorong.com Where to stay Mantra Albury Hotel. mantra.com.au Quest Echuca. questapartments.com.au Quality Hotel Mildura Grand. milduragrand.com.au Beach Huts Middleton. beachhuts.com.au More information australia.com visitnsw.com visitvictoria.com southaustralia.com How…

Johannesburg was built upon a reef of gold. The lustrous treasure pulses through the city’s veins — it’s what brought European prospectors to this part of South Africa in the late 19th century. Today, it’s still the draw for many new settlers who see themselves as Dick Whittingtons in a city of opportunity. But for all the gold that’s passed through the city, Jo’burg’s enduring colour is green: while there may be no sea here, no mountain or grand river to draw the eye, the city is awash with trees. So many, in fact, that they’re estimated to outnumber humans more than two to one, making the city one of the most wooded in the world. Yet, even this urban forest is a byproduct of the gold rush: mineshafts needed…

RURAL STAYS For accommodation in the peaks of the Guayadeque ravine, bed down in the Casas rurales de Guayadeque. Rooms lie underground in this cave hotel, hidden in former dwellings that have been restored and spruced up. LOCAL FOODS From Europe’s only coffee plantation to a signature Honey Rum, Gran Canaria has excellent gastronomic credentials. Visit one of many restaurants where chefs are putting a spin on traditional dishes, or visit fincas (farmhouses) to discover local life.…