Innholdsfortegnelse for June 2021 i National Geographic Traveller (UK)

daisy-gaston.com @daisygaston_ One of the winners of Portrait of Humanity 2021/1854 Media. 1854. photography…

From postcards and magazine covers to Hollywood blockbusters and video games, Hong Kong’s neon lights are intrinsic to the city’s identity. But over the past decade it’s estimated around 90% of Hong Kong’s large neon lights have been snuffed out. Appalled by the threat of the lights’ annihilation, groups of passionate Hongkongers have rallied together to try to save, or at least catalogue, the fading lights. “These are pieces of art,” says Cardin Chan, spokesperson for the Tetra Neon Exchange, one of a number of neon heritage groups in Hong Kong. “The people who make the signs are artisans. Our work isn’t just to save the physical signs, but to educate people about what neon means to us.” While she doesn’t mention the ongoing political tension between the city and…

VERTIGO HOTEL Just off the elegant, tree-lined Jardin Darcy, the Vertigo’s listed 1920s building looks every bit as classical as its surroundings. But step inside, and everything changes. Stucco is souped up in dizzying, clashing patterns; surreal artwork clads the bedroom ceilings, and there are swirled-patterned carpets and fragmented mosaic bathrooms. Feeling overwhelmed? Luckily the lifts are padded, like the headboards, in soothing black textiles. The Vertigo is a prime example of what Dijon hoteliers do best: taking a heritage building and turning it into an smart place to stay. Although it’s affiliated with Marriott, this is a local affair, owned by the Massucco brothers, who have several hotels and restaurants here. As the name suggests, the hotel veers on the disorientating, but always stylishly so. Don’t miss Le Cigar-bar,…

Saki is the director of heritage and garden artistry at Ueyakato Landscape. ueyakato.jp MURIN-AN Located in the Okazaki district, this is a masterpiece of modern Japanese garden design. The promenade, forest and three-stage waterfall open up to wonderful views of the Higashiyama mountains. murin-an.jp NANZEN-IN Don’t miss this quiet corner in the busy, historic Nanzen-ji temple complex. A mystical-feeling garden, it’s surrounded by woodland and dates back to the 13th century. nanzenji.or.jp CHISHAKU-IN This scenic temple garden is at its most beautiful in late spring, when the rhododendrons blaze pink and purple. Don’t miss the rock garden, a classic example of Japanese design. chisan.or.jp…

In ancient times, Anglesey was a world apart from the British mainland: an island realm sacred to Druid priests, who cursed invading Romans over the water with gruesome spells. Two millennia on, it’s far easier to reach Anglesey (via one of the two bridges across the Menai Strait), and you can be sure of a warmer welcome. You might spend anywhere between a weekend and a lifetime wandering quiet trails that crisscross its mossy cli­ s, strolling seaside towns that are bastions of the Welsh language, or tripping over ancient standing stones le. by the long-vanished Druids. The island was once known as the ‘Mother of Wales’ because its fertile fields fed the nation, and in a modern reinvention of that tradition, a crop of new restaurants have set up…

1 CHEESE There are a lot of dairy farms in Hawke’s Bay, meaning cheesemaking is a common undertaking. Check out Origin Earth’s semi-soft, creamy, single-farm-origin Takenga range. 2 OLIVES With its long, hot summers, Hawke’s Bay has the ideal climate for growing olives. The olives in the south are strong and punchy, while the northern trees produce much softer flavours. Varieties range from Kalamata and Manzanilla — for eating — to Koroneiki and Picual, which are popular for their oil. 3 MERLOT & CHARDONNAY Just under half of all grapes grown in Hawke’s Bay are either Merlot or Chardonnay, with the latter’s best yield grown in the temperate coastal areas. For a purist’s experience, visit Napier’s Tony Bish Wines for its Chardonnay. 4 SEAFOOD Napier’s restaurants serve up under-used fish…

I’ve been told to turn up hungry. Lunch is cocido madrileño, a multi-platter stew that’s Madrid’s signature dish, but attempting to eat it in one sitting is like climbing K2 after a Couch to 5K. “As far as we know, only two diners have ever finished a full cocido madrileño in 125 years,” says Jose Rodríguez, fourth-generation manager of Malacatín. This former backstreet wine shop has specialised in the stew since 1895, when the owner’s wife started serving her own recipe in three stages, or vueltos: first the noodle broth, then the chickpeas and potatoes, then the heaped meats (chicken, blood sausage, pig’s trotters etc). You can still try it that way, or have it all dished up at once, but either way you’ll have passed out face-down in salty…

Best for history: Mozarabic Way If the more well-trodden Camino de Santiago routes seem too busy, short, or easy, then why not walk to Santiago de Compostela a different way by following the longer, tougher route taken by Christian pilgrims from Spain’s Muslim-held medieval south? Multiple paths lead inland from Málaga and Almería, merge to cross the Sierra Nevada, then link to the 620-mile northward stretch of the Vía de la Plata. The oldest sections trace ancient Roman roads, spanning the whole peninsula from snowy peaks to dusty plains and rainy green hills. St James Way Organized runs private tours on this route that include accommodation options. stjameswayorganized.com Best for peace and quiet: Vías Verdes Over 1,900 miles of disused rail lines have been repurposed to create the Vías Verdes…

Paddling slowly west into the blazing bayou sunset, it doesn’t feel like I’m anywhere near the concrete heart of a US city. Indeed, it doesn’t feel like I’m anywhere near the US at all. “I like to pretend I’m on the Amazon when I’m down here,” says canoeing guide Matt Sandel, who’s expertly navigating our twoman vessel. “The wildlife down here, from the turtles to the baby alligators, is insane. As soon as you get onto the bayou, you feel like you’re a thousand miles away from the real world.” The real world in this case is Houston, Texas — and we’re a lot less than a thousand miles from its oil-powered skyscrapers. In fact, the glass gave way to grass just a few yards behind us, around the last…

I was born in Poland and raised on the cuisine of my mother and grandmother. As I learned to cook for myself, I discovered other cuisines, which are exciting and delicious, but they don’t have the one thing I sometimes miss: nostalgia. For many, Poland is associated with pork schnitzel (known as schabowy) and kielbasa sausage, often served with cold vodka. It’s true that in Polish cuisine there are stunning meat-based dishes, but our valleys are also rich in wonderful vegetables and fruits. The culture of dairy products and fermented foods is incredibly advanced, and the number of grain-based dishes is countless. Kasza (buckwheat) is a signature of Polish cooking; the dark brown, nutty groats are roasted, but you can also find an unroasted version, which is milder and more…

Best for climbing: COUNTY DONEGAL: The sea has shaped Donegal’s distinctive stacks over thousands of years, and you can conquer the rock formations for yourself on a trip with Unique Ascent. Led by climber and mountain instructor Iain Miller, steely seafarers both young and old will be guided to the summit of one of these rocky outcrops after kayaking from the coast. From the top, gaze out across the Atlantic and keep your eyes peeled for some of the local wildlife, including seals and basking sharks. The team welcomes kids, too, having climbed with children as young as five. uniqueascent.ie ALTERNATIVE: Scaling the cliffs on the Isle of Portland in Dorset. The vertical faces are suitable for climbers of all abilities. Best for culture: KENT: A collaboration between the Turner…

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After my sister, Fauzia, died from undiagnosed tubercolosis in June 2016, I began thinking of beginnings and endings, and our early lives in Lahore came back to me. I was born in London, but for two years, until I was five, we lived in the fashionable Lahori district of Model Town, moving back to Britain for good in 1977. Returning to Lahore for the first time in the spring of 2000 was such a shock to my system, I initially mistook it for disappointment — but thinking back now, it was a reminder of the way places become lodged within us and acquire their own mythologies. I remembered those two years in Lahore as a perfect pocket of childhood happiness, running amok in the grounds of the extended family home…

9AM START WITH THE SWEET STUFF Indulge in both of Oviedo’s signature pastries. Carbayones — doughy almond blobs glazed with egg yolk — are the house special at Camilo de Blas. Nearby Confitería Rialto, meanwhile, has built a baking empire on its moscovitas: chocolate-topped, almond-filled cookies. camilodeblas.es moscovitas.com 11AM WANDER THE OLD TOWN The historic centre is dominated by five medieval spires. Mightiest is the bell tower of Oviedo Cathedral. Lunch on the terrace at Le Corte de Palayo, then walk it offamong the peacocks in Campo San Francisco, the orchard of a former convent. mercadofontan.es lacortedepelayo.com 1PM TAKE IN CENTURIES OF SPANISH ART The Fine Arts Museum of Asturias packs in a host of Spanish masters — El Greco, Goya, Sorolla, Picasso, Dalí — in a whirl of contrasting…

THE UNSUNG ANCIENT CITY Not far outside the Islamicgothic bastion that is Seville, the lesser-known ancient Roman settlement of Italica is a semi-ruin of aristocratic mansions and swirling mosaics around an amphitheatre that seated 25,000. Believed to be the birthplace of emperors Trajan and Hadrian, its modern profile was raised by appearing in TV show Game of Thrones. italicasevilla.org THE HISTORIC SKYSCRAPER The Telefónica Building was Madrid’s first skyscraper when it opened in 1929, and soon became both a bombing target and an air raid shelter during the Spanish Civil War. Today, it hosts regular art exhibits behind a beautifully restored facade fusing Spanish baroque and New York art deco styles. espacio.fundaciontelefonica.com GAUDÍ’S HIDDEN PALACE Barcelona doesn’t have a monopoly on the genius of Antoni Gaudí. The unruly architect, whose…

A COLD, BLOODLESS DAWN BREAKS ABOVE THE ANDES, THE YOLK OF A WHITE SUN SPILLING OUT ACROSS THE ATACAMA DESERT AHEAD. I’m standing next to the ruins of a shepherd’s hut, 13,800ft above sea level. This altitude — over three times that of Ben Nevis — plus the fact I’ve been up since 4.45am mean my energy levels are close to zero. My skull feels like an empty shell. A cutting wind slashes around my face, causing my eyes to water, but as uncomfortable as this is, moving seems almost impossible. Given the circumstances, quite how Lily Marchant is able to spring over rocks towards me is baffling. The guide from Awasi Atacama hotel has a habit of bounding; enthusiasm comes to her more readily than it does to a…

1 The Mighty 5 Utah is famed for its ‘Mighty 5’ national parks — realms of cinematic rock formations and red hues. “Each park has its own personality and visitor experience,” says ranger Karen Garthwait. “Between wind gusts, there might be nothing but your own heartbeat — a reminder of what these parks preserve.” 2 The call of the road Utah’s 27 scenic byways are sights in their own right. “Our roads don’t just lead to beautiful places; they go through them in all corners of the state,” says Brett Prettyman, former outdoors editor at The Salt Lake Tribune. Logan Canyon and Scenic Byway 12 are must-visits. 3 Unbeatable snow “I’ve skied all over the world and can confirm Utah truly has the ‘Greatest Snow on Earth’,” says three-time Olympic…

Do you remember all the fuss about plastic straws? It wasn’t long ago when company after company realised that handing out 4.7 billion plastic straws each year in England alone wasn’t such a great idea after all. Hotels were quick to jump on that ‘green’ bandwagon. It was a clear win: something easy to phase out, that represented both a cost saving and a simple way of showing a brand’s eco credentials. Reducing single-use plastic is of course hugely important, and plastic straws and stirrers have now been banned in England. But when it comes to sustainability in travel, plastic straws are a drop in the ocean. They’re a good example of how ideas around sustainability can be misused and narrowed down to a very simple — and not particularly…

Did you love one of our features? Did a story inspire an adventure? Let us know what you think of the magazine and the Star Letter will win the incredible prize below. GET IN TOUCH inbox@natgeotraveller.co.uk Have a query about subscriptions? Get in touch atsubscriptionhelpline.co.uk or call01293 312166 WIN A Double Tranverz L case from Eastpak worth £170! The perfect companion for a quick getaway or a long-haul adventure, this travel trolley from Eastpak is as stylish as it is practical. It can hold up to 121 litres, and has two compartments with two zip-fastening front pockets, as well as a telescopic handle and a smooth-wheeling system. There’s also a TSA three-digit lock for added security. eastpak.com STAR LETTER Star of Africa I was so excited to see Namibia featured…

THE CATEGORIES Evocative visuals are key to powerful storytelling. Whether you shoot on your mobile or with a DSLR, abroad or in the UK, we look forward to seeing how you interpret the criteria to create stunning travel shots Food & travel This new category calls for images that tell a story from any stage of the journey from field to fork. Think dynamic scenes of fishing, farming or harvest, rich shots of street food markets and chefs in steamy kitchens. People Some of the world’s most iconic photos are portraits, and it’s no wonder — the encounters we have with people are what make our travels unforgettable. You’ll need a compelling subject and an interesting backdrop against which to frame them. Urban environments Your composition should capture something of…

1 YORK MINSTER An appropriately awe-inspiring starting point, York Minster is one of the largest and most sublime gothic cathedrals in Europe. Admire the stained-glass windows depicting Adam and Eve in the Garden of Eden as well as apocalyptic scenes from the Book of Revelation, then descend to the subterranean chambers of the Undercroft. Here, there’s a museum that tells the story of the city up to the present day. yorkminster.org 2 COXWOLD A two-day hike through the rolling countryside and woodland of the Howardian Hills ends in the village of Coxwold, where 17th-century houses line the road to St. Michael’s Church. During the 1760s, the curate here was Laurence Sterne, author of the avant-garde novel Tristram Shandy. Sterne lived and wrote at the nearby Shandy Hall — tour the…

Few Japanese cities can rival Kyoto for its beguiling mix of experiences, from its manga museums and traditional workshops to Buddhist temples and blossom trees. The real joy, though, is in its many quiet corners. Even at its busiest, Kyoto has no shortage of relaxing teahouses and tranquil Shinto shrines to discover — well-kept secrets where you’ll find the city’s soul. Most visitors head straight for the historic district of GION. Go on a weekday, when it’s quieter, and stroll along the cherry tree-lined canal on KIYAMACHI-DORI or the bar-lined PONTOCHO ALLEY, which comes alive at night, but slumbers by day. Many of the neighbourhood’s machiya (traditional townhouses) are now cafes and restaurants; stop o. at RAMEN MURAJI for a bowl of steaming noodles topped with chicken and egg. From…

Why go Often overlooked in favour of its larger neighbours Liverpool and Manchester, Chester flies under the radar. But those who make it here will discover a thriving city that wears its history proudly. It was founded by the Romans, after all, whose legacy can still be seen in the amphitheatre, and there are also traces of Tudor, Georgian and Victorian architecture. Take in the views from the city walls, or grab a drink in one of its creaky-beamed pubs. But for all its historical highlights, Chester has embraced its modern side, too, with a thriving independent scene, from pop-up supper spots to a stream of festivals. visitcheshire.com What to do Tours Around Chester offers 5km or 10km running tours of the city for nimble-footed visitors to take in all…

MILLICAN THE CORE ROLL PACK 15L Made from 100% recycled post-consumer plastic waste, this pack is waterproof, with an external water bottle pouch, internal pockets and a key loop. RRP: £70. homeofmillican.com KEEN TEMPO FLEX BOOTS Keen’s latest leather hiking boots are ideal for the great outdoors. The soles contain accordion-like technology to make them more flexible. RRP: £134.99. keenfootwear.com RED ORIGINAL WATERPROOF ACTIVE JACKET The fabric of this jacket is designed to allow for a range of movements and there are under-arm vents for air flow, plus reflective trim for lowlight settings. RRP: £129.95. redoriginal.com…

SMITH & SHETH Heretaunga Wine Studio by winemakers Smith & Sheth is a tasting experience set in a plush studio theatre, with an audiovisual presentation to accompany tastings. Led by a sommelier, the two-and-a-half-hour experience costs NZ$75 (L39) and should be booked at least 48 hours in advance. smithandsheth.com PACIFICA MĀori co-owner and head chef Jeremy Rameka focuses on flavours he remembers from growing up in small-town Kakahi, in central North Island, where hunting and foraging were central to the cuisine. Dishes in this blue shack, a short walk from the water, might include venison with sweet potato butter, or a slab of tarakihi fish with spiced, coconut-creamed abalone. There are two five-course degustation options, which change nightly. Five courses NZ$70 (L36), or NZ$125 (L63) with wine pairings. pacificarestaurant.co.nz VINOTECH…

WAS THE BASQUE COUNTRY AN INSPIRING PLACE TO GROW UP AS A YOUNG CREATIVE? I think creativity starts with environment, and my city was a part of that. Financial support for the arts is limited, but Vitoria-Gasteiz has a varied cultural fabric. My mother [a historian from the neighbouring region of Navarre] was my first influence, though — my brother and I spent our childhood exploring beautiful landscapes and greenways and learning about our heritage. YOU WORK ACROSS A LOT OF DIFFERENT MEDIA. WHICH WAS YOUR FIRST LOVE? I started painting from a very young age. I loved the colour. Later, I started to make montages, then as a student I discovered sculpture, design and photography. I’m always looking for new ways to express myself, and love experimenting with techniques…

Synonymous with mouth-watering cuisine, spellbinding opera and ancient architecture, Sicily is one of Italy’s best-loved destinations. Its most famous attraction, Mount Etna, is the tallest active volcano in Europe and is best explored with a cable-car ride and guided walk to the summit. Any Sicilian jaunt should also include a visit to the UNESCO World Heritage Sites of the Valley of the Temples, which offers a window into ancient Greek civilisation, and Syracuse, once the largest city in the ancient world. Then there’s Palermo, a city so packed with history and heritage it’s worth taking a week just to explore its baroque facades, lavish palazzos and busy markets. After all that adventuring, why not sample the region’s signature foods: think arancini (deep-fried rice balls); caponata (a dish of aubergines and…

The soldiers manning the checkpoint may be baby-faced, but their helmets, armbands and automatic rifles tell us they mean business. Despite their youth, they project an air of solemn authority, and after a couple of questions and a peek into the boot of the car they wave us through. Our light mood is replaced with a telling silence. After all, we’re rolling into one of the world’s most notorious flashpoints: Korea’s last outpost of the Cold War, known as the DMZ. It’s a late-winter morning, with a biting wind blowing in from the East Sea. A smothering of clouds broods overhead and I can taste kelp in the air. As we leave the car and climb the stairs towards the Goseong Unification Observatory, I’m afforded my first ocean view: the…

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