Innholdsfortegnelse for May 2021 i National Geographic Traveller (UK)

Audrey GIllan Portugal’s Eastern Algarve draws me back time after time with its incredible food, beaches and sunsets. The market in the old fishing town of Olhão is one of the best in the world and almost all of the produce is caught, dug or picked locally. ALGARVE P.52 Travis Levius Nashville is synonymous with country music, but don’t underestimate its range — beyond the strip lies a patchwork of diverse neighbourhoods, cultural attractions and a growing collection of stellar boutique hotels. NASHVILLE P.58 Emma Gregg I managed to fit in an extraordinary trip to Antarctica and South Georgia just before the pandemic. The memories have kept me going since, including the weatherproof coat with its dusting of salt crystals and faint whiff of penguin. ANTARCTICA P.82 Mark Parren Taylor…

Baabile, Ethiopia I met this woman during an assignment for an organisation that carries out aid projects in Ethiopia. She lives in the town of Baabile, in the east of the country, where she and other women take part in a community programme to become small business owners. It’s a huge step on their journey to independence. Even though we didn’t share a common language, the woman led me into her hut to show me a light bulb she’d bought, dangling from the ceiling. Rarely has an experience made such an impression on me: standing in front of someone and looking into such confident and happy eyes.…

2 million Number of trees planted to help restore Scotland’s native Caledonian forest by Trees for Life, part-aided by an active base of volunteers, including those on the charity’s regular conservation weeks. treesforlife.org.uk 30,000 hectares Area of new woodland that must be planted every year between 2020-25 for the UK government to meet its net-zero greenhouse gases target in 2050. theccc.org.uk 1.46 million Number of trees planted by the Woodland Trust between 2019 and 2020, creating some 805 hectares of UK woodland. An additional 1.59m trees were planted via its free tree packs for schools and community groups. woodlandtrust.org.uk…

SQUAT LOBSTERS Also known as ‘spineys’, squat lobsters are particularly common off the northwest coast of Scotland. They’re small, sweet and delicious when cooked in a light, crispy tempura batter with a side of roasted garlic aioli. CRAB There are two main ingredients within a crab: white meat, which is flaky and delicate, and brown meat, which is smoother and more strongly flavoured. White meat pairs well with simple things like green herbs and zesty fruits, but you can be more experimental with brown meat — try adding spices like ginger and chilli. OYSTERS Our local oyster farmer grows oysters for three years before they’re sold. They feed on plankton and filter through the cold, pristine waters off the west coast. They have an almost creamy texture and are full…

Best for history ITALY: Deciding where to start a grand educational tour of Italy can be a little overwhelming. Intrepid Travel will help you get your bearings — the Rome to Amalfi Coast itinerary starts off in the Eternal City, with guided tours around the Colosseum and catacombs, before heading south to Pompeii and on towards Capri. An eight-day family holiday starts at £1,630 per person. intrepidtravel.com Best for physics ICELAND: Well away from the city lights, the thick ribbons of the Northern Lights will amaze curious-minded children. Aurora is the reaction of energetic particles from the sun colliding with the Earth’s magnetic field, and one of the most spectacular examples of physics in the natural world. And this being Iceland, you can throw in some geology, too, with a…

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OUTLANDISH Nick Hunt explores Europe’s unexpected landscapes, from a patch of Arctic tundra in Scotland to a primeval forest in Poland and Belarus. (John Murray Press, RRP: £16.99) WHEN WE WENT WILD The debut children’s book from conservationist author Isabella Tree charms young readers with the power of rewilding. (Ivy Kids, RRP: £7.99) THE PADDLEBOARD BIBLE All you need to know about paddleboarding, from the basics of getting up and moving to finding the best spots for wild adventures. (Adlard Coles, RRP: £18.99)…

| SPACE | One of these astronauts may be the first woman on the moon Eighteen US astronauts have been chosen to train for NASA’s Artemis programme, which aims to return humans to the lunar surface by 2024 | ANIMALS | The deep-sea sharks that are among the world’s largest glowing animals A new study has found that three species of deep-sea shark, including the six-foot-long kitefin shark, are bioluminescent | SCIENCE | How viruses shape our world Covid-19 is a reminder of their destructive power — but they’re also crucial to humans’ development and survival…

PLAVI PODRUM Istria has a growing reputation for top-level cuisine. Its high standards are best savoured at this little spot, semi-hidden in the fishing village of Volosko, near Opatija, where sweet slivers of scampi carpaccio are paired with local wines. plavipodrum.com SAN ROCCO If you didn’t know it was here, you wouldn’t notice this chic spa-hotel. It waits in the unassuming village of Brtonigla, five miles inland from Novigrad. But as well as 14 rooms, the hotel comes with a restaurant that revels in tasting menus and seasonal ingredients. san-rocco.hr MENEGHETTI Another rural hideaway, near Bale, southwest of Rovinj, Meneghetti spoils diners with delicacies like monkfish tail in bisque foam. It also has a private beach club, hidden at the end of a trail through its vineyards. meneghetti.hr MONTE High…

PULA ARENA There’s a significant strand of Italian to Istria’s genetics — the peninsula was part of Italy from 1920 to 1947, something that’s reflected in many towns having dual names (Pula is also known as ‘Pola’). But the city’s Italianate connections go back even further. The spectacular Roman arena, which dates to the first century, is one of the best examples of an amphitheatre outside Rome and retains much of the visual power it must have had when its 23,000 seats were packed for gladiatorial fight. It still stages big events today, including summer screenings at the long-running Pula Film Festival. ami-pula.hr pulafilmfestival.hr THE VENETIAN FORTRESS There are more Italian footprints all across Pula. The Kaštel fortress is the centrepiece of the city and was built by the Venetians…

1 AMÊIJOAS These clams are dug fresh from the Ria Formosa and usually end up in the classic Portuguese dish, amêijoas à Bulhão Pato. 2 FOLAR DE OLHÃO Much like an oversized cinnamon roll, this cake is sticky with caramelised sugar and laden with fennel seeds and cinnamon. 3 FLOR DE SAL A shimmering product of the sea, these prized salt crystals are skimmed from the surface of saltwater pans. 4 ALMONDS Some of the best almonds in the world grow in the Algarve. They can be found in markets, but also appear in every possible kind of cake and pastry. 5 FIGS Introduced to the Algarve by the Moors, figs grow wild in the region. They’re exceptionally sweet in season, which is usually around late summer.…

After a year of travel restrictions, a change of scenery feels more like a necessity than a novelty. Which is why, as travel possibilities slowly open up again, Rhaetian Railway’s Bernina Express seems like the perfect post-lockdown trip. Its route runs from the historic Swiss town of Chur through mountains and valleys to the palm trees and cobbled streets of Tirano in Italy. Whether you’re a fan of nature, history and culture or you’re simply looking to pack as many discoveries as possible into one luxurious four-hour trip, this 75-mile meander is a firm reminder that train travel has the potential to be a stylish and sustainable way to explore. Of course, it doesn’t hurt to be journeying on a train as packed with first-rate facilities as the Bernina Express.…

It’s home to fiery landscapes. Madeira was born of volcanic fury, bursting up from the seabed in a series of seismic explosions. Some five million years later, it spreads out in a haze of jagged summits and plunging ravines that are at odds with its image as a place for sunny getaways. The island’s highest peak is Pico Ruivo — a 6,106ft titan that’s only accessible on foot. The route up requires a little effort, but the reward is a view that reveals the coast in every direction. Allow an entire afternoon to do it. It has superb food and wine. Fine dining shouldn’t be limited to the confines of your luxury hotel restaurant. You can eat as extravagantly as you wish in the capital, Funchal — not least at…

My kayak cuts through the Ljubljanica’s bottle-green waters. On its right bank, the Central Market is in full swing: vats bubble with fermenting sauerkraut, ice-filled buckets shine with Adriatic sea bass; sourdough ovens puff woodsmoke around stone colonnades. On its left bank, cyclists wheel under the watchful gaze of dragons crouching, mouth agape, on Zmajski Bridge, poised for battle. The Ljubljanica is key to life here; a central artery where students come to drink craft beer, where artists and antique sellers peddle their wares, and where musicians come to entertain tourists. To feel the pulse of Ljubljana’s watery heart, I decided to kayak the length of the city, paddling past the cobbled streets and clay-roofed buildings of the city centre, where restaurants such as Monstera Bistro and Atelje are revolutionising…

IN NUMBERS 83 The number of stones remaining at Stonehenge; it originally featured over 160 bluestones and sarsen stones 25 tons The weight of the average sarsen stone. The smaller bluestones, meanwhile, weigh between two and five tons each In 2020, archaeologists found what may be the UK’s largest prehistoric monument. The 1.2 mile-wide circle of pits surround the ancient Durrington Walls, close to Stonehenge A MOBILE MONUMENT Stonehenge’s bluestones originally came from southwest Wales. It’s now believed they could have been part of a stone circle at Waun Mawn, in the Preseli Hills, before being dismantled and relocated to Salisbury Plain when the ancient people of the Preseli region migrated SOLAR CYCLE STONEHENGE IS ALIGNED TO THE MOVEMENTS OF THE SUN, WITH THE STONES SET UP TO FRAME BOTH…

Qatar’s sun-kissed coastline guards some of the country’s lesser-known natural, cultural and historical treasures. Set to start in 2022, the new Whale Sharks of Qatar cruise, Discover Qatar’s first expedition cruise, will offer the chance to experience many of them. The expedition cruise ship and its fleet of Zodiac rigid inflatable vessels will take travellers to some of the country’s most secluded corners, from shallow shorelines to remote coastal areas. Inland Sea Picture silvery crescents of sand that dissolve into turquoise waters. Welcome to Khor Al Udaid — or the Inland Sea, as it’s also known — one of only three places on the planet where the sea cuts deep into the heart of a desert. As well as whale sharks, the site is a safe haven for a variety…

GET IN TOUCH inbox@natgeotraveller.co.uk ⋆ STAR LETTER Out in the open Your magazine came to me as a Valentine’s gift this year and it’s been great in helping me escape the screen life we find ourselves in these days. It was fantastic to dive into the images and articles — they inspired me to go outdoors. One particular article about friluftsliv (Jan/Feb 2021) caught my attention as it opened my eyes to the wonders of nature. I live in Newcastle and Northern England offers an array of hikes and walks and this article helped encourage my inner sloth to get out there. I’ve always enjoyed hiking yet found it hard to motivate myself, but the reminder of the perspective and purpose it gives has encouraged me to reach for those…

If the past year has taught us anything, it’s that we live in times where little is certain. However, it seems trips are finally within our grasp and, with some caveats, even destinations further afield are once again on the horizon. So, this issue we celebrate weekend getaways. Remember them? Adventures that pack a host of experiences into a handful of days — and offer instant gratification as you maximise every available minute from that much-needed break from routine. We’ve selected 52 flight-free escapes for the year ahead, many of which are just a short drive, train journey or ferry ride away. And with 21 of them in the UK and Ireland, there’s plenty to choose from right here on our doorstep. With everything from puffin-spotting in Wales and foraging…

Trinidad & Tobago The coral-monitoring, non-profit Reef Check operates a facility at ERIC (Environmental Research Institute Charlotteville) where open-water divers can learn to conduct their own surveys. A one- or two-week EcoDiver course involves daily research dives, information from which will fuel a global database on reef health. The resulting certification enables divers to join surveys and contribute to conservation work. From US$450 (£325) for two to three days. eric-tobago.org Mexico Fancy yourself as a marine biologist? PADI Dive Center Dive Ninja Expeditions in Baja California has research trips based on striped marlin and the mobula ray migration. This year, it’s releasing new expeditions on mako sharks, silky sharks and grey whales. Guests stay on the shores of the Sea of Cortez and can join regular Dive Against Debris days.…

It might be Britain’s youngest capital city (having held the title since 1955), but what Cardiff lacks in titular heritage it makes up for with a knack for reinvention. Its once woebegone docks have arguably become Europe’s boldest waterfront development and a showpiece for 21st-century architecture, while edgy restaurants are redefining the city’s dining scene. When you consider the city is also renowned for its elegant Victorian and Edwardian shopping arcades, museums, live music and a proud industrial heritage, Cardiff is, perhaps, whatever you wish it to be. Get your bearings at CARDIFF CASTLE. The fort is Norman at its core, but the flamboyant, 19th-century reconstruction of the castle apartments is its most eye-catching element. Various tours can include behind-the-scenes explorations of seldom-glimpsed, astoundingly decorated rooms, and you can also…

Why go From Dickens to Darwin, the list of Victorian luminaries who regularly decamped to the spa town of Malvern is extensive. Small wonder: thanks to its picturesque location amid the Malvern Hills and the healing qualities of its water, the bustling town thrived in the 19th century, and its historic heart, Great Malvern, still retains much of its elegant architecture today. It’s the ideal starting point for exploring the Malvern Hills — an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, whose volcanic hills are threaded with hiking and biking trails. visitthemalverns.org What to do The cinematic scenery of the Malvern Hills, along with landmarks such as Giant’s Cave, likely inspired writer J R R Tolkien, who enjoyed walking in the area. Follow in his footsteps and head off on a hike,…

1 GARMIN ENDURO GPS MULTISPORT WATCH After a surge in interest in trail running in 2020, Garmin has introduced this smartwatch, that delivers specialised features in spades: a solar-charging lens for enhanced battery life (up to 80 hours in GPS mode), precise GPS even in remote locations, VO2 max tracking, upcoming climb insights and ascent planning, and recovery data. RRP: £799. garmin.com 2 NIKE AEROBILL TAILWIND RUNNING CAP The running cap has an adjustable fit, with moisture wicking to keep sweat out of your vision, while laser perforations at the sides enhance breathability, keeping you cool. Made using up to 50% recycled materials. RRP: £23. nike.com 3 SALOMON ADV SKIN 12 TRAIL RUNNING PACK With integrated, easy-access, soft-flask hydration packs and 12 litres of space for belongings, this is the…

The helicopter is finally taking off. It’s my first time flying like this and, as we start levitating over the sea of icebergs below us, it feels as if a giant is gently picking us up with two fingers. We’re in the coastal town of Ilulissat, Greenland, heading toward the ice fields. As we reach the front of the ice sheet, the greens and blues of drowned icebergs become more vivid. But it isn’t time, yet; white and grey clouds mix with the ice contour. Low visibility, the greatest enemy for a helicopter flying in these locations, forces the pilot to signal what I’d been fearing: we need to head back. Though grateful for such safety consciousness, I’m disappointed. I’d been preparing for this, for longer than I can remember.…

Istria isn’t the sort of place that likes to interrupt. Stand on the shore anywhere between Fažana and Umag, as the sea laps the shingle and families chatter quietly, and you’ll understand: a 60-mile-long peninsula that juts down, like the lower half of a diamond, below Slovenia and the northeastern corner of Italy, this is Croatia at its unhurried best. True, there are towns — and one city, Pula — dotted along its west coast, where the Adriatic meets the shore under the shadow of chic hotels. But venture inland, and the region reveals its rustic heart, one where wineries and truffle farms are tucked into the landscape, mountains rising up silently on the horizon. With life moving at a gentle pace, Istria is easily explored. Thanks to excellent roads,…

MORNING Hop on a ferry and head two miles off the coast to the Brijuni Islands, a national park since 1983. Veliki Brijun is the largest of the 14 outcrops – hire a bike at the dock and pedal up to the remarkable Brijuni Cretaceous Park, at the north-west end of the island. It preserves a series of dinosaur footprints, fossilised in the rocks along the water. No less wonderful is Verige Bay, a horseshoe inlet where you can paddle in the shadows of a first-century (BC) Roman villa. Ferries depart from Fazana, five miles north of Pula, roughly every 90 minutes in daylight hours. AFTERNOON Once back on the mainland, delve into the Istrian interior: a gloriously mountainous backdrop to the glittering coast. In its northeast corner, the drive…

Like many pilgrims who walk the Camino de Santiago network of pilgrim’s routes, Sherly Cho had no obvious religious motivation. Back in 2018, she took a five-week hiatus from her Korean-Swiss cookery school in Zurich, ready for a challenge. But Sherly never anticipated that the 500-mile pilgrimage from St Jean Pied de Port, in the French Pyrenees, to Santiago de Compostela, in Galicia, northwest Spain, would inspire major changes in her life. The year before Covid-19 slammed the brakes on international travel, the Camino de Santiago witnessed record pilgrim numbers. According to the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela’s Pilgrims Reception Office, 347,578 hikers received their Compostela certificate in 2019, a year-on-year increase of 6%. Its records also showed that a growing number were solo pilgrims, like Sherly, and that only…

SPONSORED BY Among the most coveted travel photography prizes in the country, and now in its 10th year, the National Geographic Traveller Photography Competition 2021, sponsored by Nikon, is open for entries. Submit your images in up to six categories to be in the running for incredible prizes and for the chance to see your work in the pages of National Geographic Traveller (UK). Have you got what it takes to win? THE CATEGORIES Food & travel This new category calls for images that tell a story from any stage of the journey from field to fork. Think dynamic scenes of fishing, farming or harvest, rich shots of bustling street food markets, and images of chefs in steamy kitchens. People Travel portraiture means seeking out the human stories within a…

The custom of hanami — enjoying the transient beauty of flowers — is an established part of culture in Japan. In spring, the country’s parks and gardens are places of pilgrimage for those seeking to bask in the beauty of cherry blossom, and as we limp out of lockdown, a similar appreciation is taking root here on home soil. The National Trust is offering a sight for sore eyes this spring in the spirit of hanami: circles of blossom trees in cities across England, Wales and Northern Ireland, with the aim of improving people’s access to nature. The campaign will first come into flower at the new London Blossom Garden. Part-funded by the People’s Postcode Lottery and created in partnership with the Mayor of London, the garden (at the Queen…

We live in Ullapool, a small fishing village on the northwest coast of Scotland, where around seven local creel boats, four local trawling boats and more than a dozen visiting boats land each week. Our daily plans at The Seafood Shack are normally based on whatever Kirsty’s partner Josh’s fishing boat, Bon Ami, has dropped off that morning. There’s always some discussion, such as “Please can we have four boxes of langoustines today?” or “Yes, we’ll take 24 lobsters tomorrow”, but it’s always changing and we’re never quite sure what will be waiting for us in the morning. Our scallop diver will randomly pop his head in on any given day and say, “I’ve got some scallops for you,” and within an hour they’ll be on the menu. Our fishmonger…

THE MODERNIST HOTEL Italy’s liminal city, tucked up in the northeast corner on the Adriatic Sea, has long seemed wedded to a bygone era. Until 1918, this was the main port of the Austro-Hungarian Empire; today, it’s an alluring combination of Italy and Vienna, with frothy Habsburg buildings swaggering onto the ever-blue Gulf of Trieste, and Viennese-style coffeehouses. So this hotel, which opened in August 2019, is something of a departure for the city. Bright colours, contrasting shades and ceilings emblazoned with literary quotes — none of these fit with local tradition. But Trieste is also known for its small jewel-box hotels, and this 56-room venture — the latest property for the people behind the more traditional Hotel Continentale — is a daring evolution. As the name suggests, what’s on…

NOOK This cosy neighbourhood restaurant by Victoria Park specialises in seasonal veg dishes that share the spotlight with carefully sourced meat and fish. The menu is complemented by natural wines. nookcardiff.co.uk THE HEATHCOCK From homemade pub snacks and hearty sharing pies to more refined dishes like langoustine with braised fennel and crispy oyster, this pubrestaurant in Llandaff puts the focus on the food. heathcockcardiff.com UISCE Pontcanna-based Uicse (pronounced ‘ish-ka’), a casual-dining add-on to Tommy Heaney’s flagship restaurant next door, doubles down on what the chef is known best for: seafood. heaneyscardiff.co.uk/uisce…

MERRELL AGILITY PEAK 4 These cushioned trail runners are flexible yet stable and sturdy, with enhanced grip for rocky terrain or wet surfaces and a foam midsole for lightweight comfort. RRP: £120. merrell.com NEW BALANCE FRESH FOAM HIERRO V6 They’re supportive, lightweight, and have enhanced foam cushioning, a reinforced toe box and laser perforations for extra breathability. RRP: £125. newbalance.co.uk ON CLOUDULTRA Designed to tackle even the toughest terrain, these trail runners feature pioneering technology that relieves foot swell with an adjustment tool on the laces. RRP: £160. on-running.com…

MORNING Base yourself in Poreč, the west-coast town that’s thrived on its natural harbour for the best part of three millennia. The historical highlight is the Euphrasian Basilica — a sixth-century feast of mosaics and piety that was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1997. The core of the town, squeezed onto a narrow peninsula of its own, spreads out in the shadow of this celebrated church, and the seafront promenade of Obala Maršala Tita is perfect for a leisurely wander. Don’t miss the main square, Trg Marafor, which was once the Roman Forum; the ‘Romanesque House’ on it dates to the 13th century. AFTERNOON Head to the beach. Generally, things are less busy the further south you go: you might not meet another sunbather if you aim…

KOZLOVIĆ Croatia’s wine industry has been growing in stature for a number of years, with Istria playing its part. This respected producer, located up at Momjan in the north of the peninsula, is open for tasting sessions. kozlovic.hr PRODAN TARTUFI Istria’s fertile soil is widely known for its truffles. Prodan Tartufi is a family-run farm in idyllic Buzet, where guests can join the guides and dogs on hunts for the revered gastro gold. prodantartufi.hr AURA Also in Buzet, Aura stiffens sinews by distilling a range of brandies flavoured with local fruits and herbs. Try before you buy and sample one of the blends distilled with cherries, wild apples or even olives. aura.hr…

ESTAMINÉ Simplicity is the very essence of the Vargas family’s restaurant, built on stilts overlooking the dunes on the island of Deserta. Seafood is cooked with very little fuss: oysters from nearby Praia de Faro are served with a sharp verjus of green grapes, and a house speciality is the ‘beach prawns’ coated in spicy breadcrumbs. Three-course lunch without wine from £26.50 per person. ilhadeserta.com/estamine-restaurant À TERRA Produce from the gardens of the Vila Monte Farm House hotel comes together with local seafood in the kitchen of chef Adérito de Almeida. Fresh fish and lamb are roasted in the oven, oysters are served gratinated or unadulterated and small sardines are baked with mace and alioli. A cataplana (a stew made in a pot of the same name) showcases seafood, sweet…

1 WALES COMMUNING WITH PUFFINS ON SKOMER ISLAND For anyone who assumes you need to travel overseas to enjoy a full-on wildlife experience, the Pembrokeshire island and bird reserve of Skomer is a revelation The James Bonds of the British bird world, puffins are charismatic, mysterious and devastatingly handsome in black and white tuxedos. They almost feel like exotic friends, adored from afar but rarely seen. For much of the year, they’re out at sea, on their top-secret puffin missions (in reality, hunting fish on the open water). When they crowd onto islands to breed, however, it’s easy enough to encounter them if you get the timing right. On the beautiful Pembrokeshire island of Skomer, a bird reserve since 1959, the puffins begin arriving in early April. At first, they…

JAPAN: KUMANO KODŌ This network of ancient trails dives into the remote, densely forested, shrine-topped mountains of the Kii Peninsula, Japan’s spiritual heartland. UK, FRANCE & ITALY: VIA FRANCIGENA A 1,200-mile route connecting Canterbury to Rome via France, the Swiss Alps and the Italian Apennines, passing churches and shrines devoted to St Francis. viefrancigene.org SRI LANKA: ADAM’S PEAK In Sri Lanka’s Central Highlands, this conical, 7,360ft-high peak is home to a footprint that’s said to belong to — faith depending — Adam, Buddha or Shiva. PORTUGAL & SPAIN: CAMINHO PORTUGUÊS The wild Atlantic coast unravels before you on this uncrowded trail from Lisbon (380 miles) or Porto (140 miles) to Santiago de Compostela. caminhoportosantiago.com TIBET: MOUNT KAILASH This three-day, 32-mile circuit of sacred 21,778ft Mount Kailash in Tibet is a…