Innholdsfortegnelse for March 2021 i National Geographic Traveller (UK)

Reza Pakravan I wanted to cycle from Norway to Cape Town in 100 days — I made it in 102. But that trip ignited my dream career and those two days don’t matter anymore. That perfection we humans seek? It might not be attainable. MEET THE ADVENTURER P.38 Connor McGovern With its Tolkienesque landscapes, the Isle of Skye quickly captures the imagination — especially after a year spent indoors. But dig a little deeper on this Scottish island, and a rich history of myths and legends will inspire anew. SCOTLAND P.76 Ben Lerwill For a window-gazer like me, spending two days on a slow train is an appealing prospect in most places. But when you factor in the Canadian Rockies, plus the possibility of bear and elk sightings? Frankly, I…

ZOE ADJONYOH is a cookbook author and founder of the Londonbased popup Zoe’s Ghana Kitchen My journey to, and exploration of, Ghanaian cuisine has been led by a very personal desire to make a connection with an aspect of my ancestry — a people and a culture that were largely distant in my upbringing. Though I spent my early years in Accra, being weaned on ‘Tom Brown’ (toasted cornmeal) and cocoyam pottage, gurgling in baby Fante talk, it was a long time before I returned to Ghana in 2014. But food was my guiding point, leading me to be reunited with those people who first informed my palate. While I was born to a Ghanaian father, I spent the majority of my childhood holidays in Ireland with my mother’s family.…

JUST £ 25 A YEAR! 50% OFF ENJOY BOTH THE DIGITAL AND PRINT EDITIONS OF NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER AND NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER FOOD If you love food and travel, why not make the most of our ultimate bundle offer? You’ll not only receive 10 issues of National Geographic Traveller, but also four issues of National Geographic Traveller Food — and the digital editions of both titles, too! For just £25, this special subscription means you’ll be able to enjoy all our inspiring, award-winning content both at home and on the go. With the magazines delivered straight to your door, and the digital issues accessible via computer, tablet and mobile, this is the perfect way to stay inspired and plan your next adventure. SUBSCRIBE TODAY, FOR YOURSELF O R A L…

ENVIRONMENT One way to fight invasive species? Eat them From lionfish crudo to pickled kudzu, these invasive species — usually destructive and disdained — can also be delicious SCIENCE Should people take more than one type of Covid-19 vaccine? Recent vaccine authorisations foretell a world with choice. Here’s what research says about whether more is better for boosting your immunity SPACE Spectacular stargazing events to watch in 2021 The year ahead offers many heavenly sights, including close planetary encounters, dazzling meteor showers and a ‘blood moon’ eclipse…

KASAPINOVA MEHANA This 18th-century inn once provided food and shelter to revolutionaries on the run. Today, it entices hikers and skiers with its lamb, pork and rabbit dishes — all slowroasted in one of the oldest furnaces in Bansko — and extensive selection of wines. kasapinova-mehana.com/en BARYAKOVA TAVERN One of the oldest mehanas in town, Baryakova Taven is a long-standing local favourite. In winter, meats are prepared on an open fire while diners look on from pinewood tables. Come summer, it gets top marks for the breezy verandah overlooking a flower-filled courtyard. T: 00 359 88 953 4582. DEDO PENE In the heart of Bansko’s old town is the eccentric Dedo Pene, whose walls are covered with accordions, vintage projectors and rusty cowbells. Housed in a 19th-century building, the restaurant…

1 CARRY SIX GALLONS OF WATER PER PERSON Don’t underestimate how much water you’ll get through when driving, and always factor in unexpected stops. All locals will tell you this is rule number one. 2 PLAN YOUR ROUTE (AND YOUR PETROL) Forget Google Maps — you won’t find much reception on the road, so refer to a physical map and make sure you know when and where you can stop for petrol. Always fill up, even if you don’t need to. 3 CARRY SUPPLIES AND CASH The likelihood is you’ll go for hours without seeing a single shop, so travel with plenty of food (and cash for if you do get to stop). 4 LEARN HOW TO CHANGE A TYRE You may get a flat on your trip. You may…

How do you keep lions at bay when you’re sleeping in the Kalahari without a tent? With lion repellent, of course. The trick is to keep your fires burning and spike them with roots that produce the type of pungent smoke that big cats can’t abide. The roots of the nondescript-looking shrub I’m peering at are ideal, apparently. “Put those on the flames, and the lions will run away in disgust”, says Tsamkgao !I/ae, my Ju/’hoan interpreter. This is exactly the kind of wisdom I’ve travelled more than 450 miles northeast from Windhoek to Otjozondjupa to hear. My tutor on this sun-bleached, dust-frosted morning is /Kaece, a Ju/’hoansi elder. We met beside a semi-circle of grass huts on the outskirts of Tsumkwe an hour or so ago. Summoning my best…

National parks crammed with migratory birds, chimps, crocodiles and stone circles? A fascinating yacht cruise up the Gambia River and along the coast of West Africa packs in no fewer than four natural reserves, UNESCO-protected sites and a sharp dose of Britain’s slavery history in just eight days. It’s one for birdwatchers, in particular, with more than 250 species, many of which are found nowhere else, in Kiang West National Park in The Gambia. That’s halfway through your trip, heading down the Senegal coast from starting point Dakar, and then inland eastwards about 150 miles from Banjul to Janjanbureh. Kiang West is home to around half of all The Gambia’s bird species, including 10 kinds of kingfishers, fiery red-beaked bateleurs and the endangered brown-necked parrot. Though that’s not the only…

“We’re committed to nature, which means keeping our footprint as small as possible. Our ship reflects this intention: we can run for a limited time on batteries alone, and recycling and protecting prevails. From the ship, you see nature at its finest, from crossing oceans and ‘meeting’ rare wildlife (often up close) to witnessing the food chain in action from a prime position. Observing a pod of orcas teaching their young how to bring down a minke whale was an unforgettable experience, and stopping next to a group of humpbacks who sprayed us with their blows is up there with my favourite moments. In the mornings, I enjoy my first coffee on the outer deck on the bow or, in really foul weather, on the bridge. As a hobbyist musician,…

Peru, Ecuador and Chile: together, they’re one of the most traversed tourist circuits in South America — but with this Hurtigruten trip, expect a less-trammelled side of the Andean big-hitters. Even better, you’ll start in Panama, seeing that world-changing canal, before crossing the Equator (complete with a ceremony asking for the ocean’s blessing) and arriving in Ecuador on day four. As well as major cities like Lima, Guayaquil and Arequipa, the tour visits more remote spots rich in South American history and culture. In Ecuador, you’ll see pre-Columbian art and stroll through the Puyango Petrified Forest. Crossing into Peru, swap the Inca ruins of Machu Picchu for remnants of even earlier civilisations: the crumbling desert city of Chan Chan, once the capital of the Chimú Kingdom, and the Sun and…

This journey takes in not just two countries, but two languages, three big-hitter cities and some of the best parts of New England. Brush off your O-level French as you start in Québec City, where you’ll have 24 hours to wander the UNESCO-listed Historic District, see the Montmorency Falls and eat all the poutine you can manage. From there, the boat will wind through the Gulf of St Lawrence and into the Bay of Fundy, before dropping anchor at Saint John, Canada’s oldest incorporated city. Next up, it’s New England’s greatest hits: you’ll sail along Maine’s coast, visit Boston, and see the stately homes of America’s first millionaires in Newport, Rhode Island, before finally ending up in the Big Apple. Crystal Cruises offers an eight-night cruise from £3,155, including meals,…

The crowd jump to their feet as local star Chulachak ‘Hugo’ Chakrabongse takes to the stage with a tip of his straw hat. “He was signed to Jay-Z’s Roc Nation record label and wrote Beyoncé’s song Disappear, which appeared on her I Am… Sasha Fierce album,” explains my friend, foreign correspondent and long-time Bangkok resident Philip Sherwell, as the Thai actor/model/musician works the crowd with his easy bluegrass beats. “Hugo’s also related to the royal family,” adds Philip. Unlikely as it seems from this popstar performance, Hugo comes from the royal line of King Rama V, one of the most forward-thinking monarchs in Thailand’s history. It’s an attitude that’s worked its way down the generations, as Hugo’s mother, Narisa Chakrabongse, doesn’t just undertake royal duties, but is also an author,…

Returning to the Alhambra is like rereading a book. The hilltop citadel built by the Nasrid sultans above Granada was a masterpiece of medieval engineering, but also of literature — poetry and philosophy expressed in dreamlike architecture. Verses, blessings and ruminations were etched into its facades so the structure would seem to speak. In Arabic, of course, which I don’t understand at all. On each of my three visits, spaced out over 20 years, I’ve heard guides translate various inscriptions from across the courtyards. ‘The perpetual bliss, the continual ecstasy…’ runs one long strand around the reflecting pool of the Comares Palace. ‘Be sparing with your words, and you’ll go in peace’ warns the inner wall above the Sultan’s throne, set beneath a domed roof composed of more than 8,000…

Morning Himeji’s gem is its towering white castle, which has stood guard over Kansai for more than 400 years. Seemingly indestructible, Himeji Castle has, unlike many other historical sites in Japan, withstood or been spared the ravages of fire, storms, earthquakes and wars. The grounds are a joy to walk through during cherry blossom season, and its main tower offers an expansive view of the area. Within the castle grounds, Koko-en is a traditional Japanese garden, featuring a waterfall, koi pond, bamboo groves, tea ceremony house and other distinctive designs of Edoera Japan. Lunchtime Lunch at the family-owned Nadagiku Sake Brewery is a real treat. Work up an appetite — and a thirst — with a tour, then sit down to sample some delicious regional fare, including a signature sukiyaki…

Fukuju Brewery Nada District, Kobe, Hyogo prefecture Among the oldest of Nada’s famed breweries is Fukuju, a brand that’s growing in stature and reputation across the globe. Visitors can tour the brewery, learning about the art of sake making and witnessing ancient traditional brewing practices done on an industrial scale. After the tour, make sure to spend an hour or so sampling the sake, before buying a bottle or three to take home. Make sure to book in advance, as tours sell out quickly. enjoyfukuju.com/en Takeno Brewery Kyotango, Kyoto prefecture Housing a brewery for 130 years, the traditional Takeno facility blends seamlessly into the surroundings rice fields and Meiji-period houses. Attached to the brewery, however, is a modern addition: Bar 362+3, a single room with a sleek bar where Yukimachi…

18.6 MILLION the number of hectares burned during the fires — more than twice the area of Portugal. 4,000 the number of hospitalisations linked to the fires between October 2019 and February 2020, with issues including asthma and cardiovascular problems. The smoke was also responsible for 417 excess deaths during this period. 3 BILLION the number of koalas, kangaroos, wombats and other land animals estimated to have been killed or displaced, according to WWF Australia. £11.3 BILLION the estimated impact of damage from the bushfires on the Australian economy, eclipsing the record £2.5 billion set by 2009’s deadly Black Saturday fires. £1.3 BILLION the amount paid by insurance companies across 30,000 claims for property loss, damage and disruption to business.…

BUSINESS D ESIGN C ENTRE, LONDON Experience the world through food and travel at our second National Geographic Traveller Food Festival — an immersive two-day event over 17-18 July at the Business Design Centre in London. We’ll be serving up a busy weekend of live cooking demos, tasting workshops, panel discussions and exhibitor stalls to whet your appetite for a culinary adventure. Join big names such as Jay Rayner, José Pizarro, Grace Dent, Aldo Zilli, Fuchsia Dunlop, Romy Gill and Theo Michaels as we cook, talk and taste our way around the globe. BUY YOUR TICKET BEFORE 13 MARCH TO GET THE EARLY-BIRD PRICE OF JUST £10 FOODFESTIVAL.NATGEOTRAVELLER.CO.UK EARLYBIRD TICKETS AVAILABLE FOR JUST £10 IN PARTNERSHIP W ITH…

GET IN TOUCH inbox@natgeotraveller.co.uk Have a query about subscriptions? Get in touch at natgeotraveller@subscriptionhelpline.co.uk or call 01293 312166 WIN An Adventure Bag from Stubble & Co worth £185! Tough, weatherproof and made from 100% recycled plastic, the new Adventure Bag from British start-up luggage brand Stubble & Co is the perfect companion for a keen traveller. Various internal compartments and a soft-sided clamshell design make for easy packing, and a breathable cushioned back panel ensures maximum comfort. stubbleandco.com STAR LETTER Awesome Algarve Your Jan/Feb 2021 edition featured a great photo feature on the hidden Algarve by Richard James Taylor. I lived in the Algarve for a year in 1994, and even then it was replete with hotels, golf courses and timeshares. But what really surprised me was how easily I…

If the dark winter months weren’t arduous enough, the introduction of another lockdown — complete with accompanying travel restrictions — is further reason to look to bright new horizons and seek moments of sunny escapism. And where better to imagine yourself than in the vast landscapes of Namibia? Our cover story this issue takes in the country’s otherworldly sand dunes, pristine coastline, desert wildlife and luxury lodges, all of which combine to offer travellers an unmatched wilderness experience. Picture-perfect it may be, but this isn’t a place to simply sit back and enjoy the view. Africa’s new adventure capital offers up a huge range of activities to li­ your spirits and quicken the pulse, from sandboarding, safari and stargazing to kayaking, hiking and e-biking. We’re championing Namibia as a destination…

It’s no coincidence TV franchise I’m a Celebrity… Get Me Out of Here! chose North Wales to host last year’s series, when travel restrictions forced producers to swap the Australian jungle for Gwrych Castle, above the village of Abergele. Over the past decade, the region has positioned itself as the home of high-octane activities in some of Britain’s most dramatic landscapes. This corner of the country has some showstopping spots for adventure, from Snowdonia’s 3,560ft heights to the 500ft depths of repurposed mines, plus inland lakes, deep valleys and miles of rugged coast. Crowning the region, SNOWDONIA NATIONAL PARK celebrates its 70th birthday in 2021 with a bumper calendar of challenging sporting events. snowdonia.gov.wales ADVENTURE PARC SNOWDONIA continues to innovate since its transformation from an abandoned aluminium works in 2015.…

With hipsters and Hollywood stars ambling down the high street, Byron Bay’s come a long way from its days as a quiet timber-logging town. And while the internationally renowned Aussie hotspot can get a bit crowded at times, the bohemian flair and sun-drenched lifestyle of Australia’s most easterly point still manages to lure travellers from across the globe. Byron isn’t about tick-the-box attractions; the simple things make for good exploring, such as walking up to the famous CAPE BYRON LIGHTHOUSE. Volunteer-led tours run daily for a small donation, and there’s also a small display on indigenous Arakwal culture at the keeper’s cottage. This stretch of coast is also popular for humpback whale-watching in the winter months (May to November). nationalparks.nsw.gov.au arakwal.com.au From there, turn your gaze south towards TALLOW BEACH…

There’s a tributary in the Magdalena that runs over a bed of green marble, passing beneath tall limestone bluffs with caves that come alive at dusk as thousands of guácharos (oilbirds) emerge into the night. Spinning in the darkness, the birds quickly disappear beyond the highest reaches of the canopy. At dawn, they return, satiated and weary and there’s a brief moment of calm, soon broken by a cacophony of hoots, whistles and screams as scores of forest creatures awaken to herald the sun. Some mornings one can hear the distant sound of jungle cats, a reminder of a time, within the memory of men, when jaguars came to this secret forest to mate, seeking refuge in a river valley known only to them. As a boy, Juan Guillermo first…

There’s something a little Brothers Grimm about Bansko in winter. Wooden houses rise haphazardly from a blanket of snow, stone chimneys send puffs of meat-scented smoke into the air and bears, wolves and jackals prowl the ancient pine forests. With the town’s identity drawn from the great outdoors, it’s little wonder it feels so atmospheric. Clinging to the slopes of southwest Bulgaria’s majestic Pirin Mountains, Bansko is perhaps best known as the country’s largest winter resort, where the savvy ski set comes for some of the best powder east of the Alps — at a fraction of the cost. And while the neon-lit ‘new town’, built at breakneck speed to accommodate the growing number of winter tourists, can teeter towards feeling a little overdeveloped, the old town centre retains its…

For much of the 20th century, the mineral-rich landscapes of southwest Namibia’s Sperrgebiet diamond mining area — now Tsau Khaeb National Park — were out of bounds to everyone except miners. Left largely untouched for so long, this remote region is a biodiversity hotspot where rare succulents thrive. The miners have mostly departed, but access remains limited. Among the few spots that are open to the public are the once-prosperous settlements of Kolmanskop and Pomona, near Lüderitz, whose scattered Edwardian villas have been claimed by the sand, making them bizarrely photogenic.…

Does Namibia deserve more recognition as a sustainable cultural tourism destination? KATHRIN: Yes, definitely. It has a diverse population with strong cultural roots. Namibia’s peoples differ substantially in their traditions and languages, making each Living Museum unique. Beyond income, what other benefits do the Living Museums bring? JOHN: They help us keep our traditions alive and enable us to send our children to school. We want to encourage our children to be flexible, so they can live alongside other societies, balancing traditional and modern ways of life. KATHRIN: Earning a living through their work improves the performers’ self-esteem. For me, this is very rewarding to see. What can visitors expect to learn? JOHN: At our museum, we show visitors how to make things like ochre body paint and spears, how…

The perfect light of Paradise comes rushing through the end of a short tunnel and slaps me across the face with a divine hand. I was looking out of my cabin’s porthole aboard Aurora Expeditions’ new ship, the Greg Mortimer, on one of those particularly flawless polar mornings where ocean and sky were almost indistinguishable. Paradise Harbour — we could have been nowhere else. In that weather, the ship looked like its brochure shots, shimmering in the sun, at one with the polar environment in which it’s been designed to sail. The Greg Mortimer, named after the Aurora founder and Australian explorer, is the newest ship sailing to Antarctica and I was aboard for its debut season. Over the course of the epic, 21-day South Georgia and Antarctic Odyssey cruise,…

Cruise-curious? Vietnam and Cambodia have long been a classic pairing, and Viking River Cruise’s Magnificent Mekong is a great choice for those who aren’t sure about spending two weeks on one ship — of this 15-day trip, only eight are spent on board. You’ll start with three days in Hanoi before flying to Cambodia, where Siem Reap’s impressive temples, including Angkor Wat and Ta Prohm, await. A coach journey through the countryside then delivers you to Kampong Cham, where the boat starts its journey. A new ship will debut on this route for the 2021 season: the 40-stateroom Viking Saigon, tailor-made to navigate the Mekong, launches on 30 August. For days six to 13 of the journey, you’ll watch one of the world’s most famous rivers glide by through the…

Keen to put some distance between you and 2020? Try this 24-day cruise through the Pacific, from Keelung to Fiji via the islands of the South Pacific. Hapag-Lloyd bills it as ‘for true explorers’ — and that’s not just because the official language is German (although all crew speak English). Departing Keelung, you’ll sail southeast until the 200-plus volcanic and coral islands that make up Palau start mushrooming from the jade ocean. From there, it’s one island nation after another, with the odd volcano dropped in for effect, until you hit the Gilbert Islands. Next, it’s southwards to Fiji, dropping in on Tuvalu en route. Excursions include kayaking through mangroves, meeting families who live on remote atolls, exploring an ancient ruined city in the Caroline Islands and a scenic flight…

April 2022 may seem a long way off, but you’ll want to get planning for this one: a 21-day trip that kicks off in Brazil, continues along French Guiana, Suriname and Guyana, takes in island-hopping in Trinidad and Tobago and finishes off in Barbados. But first to Brazil: fresh off the beach at Fortaleza, you’ll sail to Belém, then into the Amazon region for jungle excursions and encounters with giant water-lilies, pink dolphins and caimans, plus a day in Manaus, where the world’s most remote opera house awaits. Sailing north, you’ll combine wildlife with colonial architecture in the likes of Paramaribo and Georgetown, before reaching the Caribbean. And relax… Silversea offers a 21-day cruise from £9,720, including flights, transfers, one night’s pre-and post-cruise hotel, wi-fi, gratuities, shore excursions and all…

For an ideal base from which to discover Cologne, look no further than Prevôt Restaurant & Hotel, which blends a French atmosphere with German craftmanship. The city’s only boutique hotel on the Rhine offers stunning views, modern amenities and seasonal fine dining with twists on local specialities. What’s more, a host of can’t-miss experiences are just a leisurely stroll away. DISTANCE: 1 MINUTE Cologne’s Old Town While away an afternoon exploring the cafes and stores of the city’s Old Town, which dates back to the Middle Ages. Its cobbled alleys, lively, traditional breweries and numerous monuments and museums act as a veritable time warp to the area’s rich and storied history. Don’t forget to pick up the city’s most famous souvenir: a bottle of eau de cologne perfume. DISTANCE: 5…

Why did you move to Himeji? I had started learning about Buddhism when I lived in Tokyo. Another monk taught me many things, and in my mind I understood — but not in my body and soul. I still had questions and I needed answers. Becoming a monk was a way to find answers to these questions. What do you like about living here? Tokyo was busy; it was noisy. Here, it’s the opposite; it’s silent. We’re surrounded by nature. These are good conditions in which to meditate. What do you hope visitors will experience here? I want visitors to feel the calm, the freedom and the relaxation. I also hope they can find answers here — or at least ask the questions.…

1 RAPHA PRO TEAM WINTER JACKET This stylish, insulating outer layer is a great investment for eliminating the chill that can quickly curtail cold-weather rides. From breathable and insulating fabric choices to reflective panelling, it’s been engineered with the needs of riders in mind. RRP: £180. rapha.cc 2 BERN HUDSON MIPS BIKE HELMET Winter can serve up reduced visibility and slippery conditions. A state-of-theart, lightweight Bern helmet not only offers a snug fit (it comes in three adjustable sizes), but also a detachable USB-charged light with up to 10 hours’ power. RRP: $119.99 (£89). bernhelmets.com 3 SEALSKINZ WATERPROOF ALL-WEATHER GLOVE WITH FUSION CONTROL Come wind, rain, snow or sleet, Sealskinz’s activewear accessories are designed to protect your extremities. These comfortable and sturdy gloves offer 100% windproofing and waterproofing, plus excellent…

Australia’s varied climates mean bushfire seasons differ across the country. For the east coast, the risk of bushfires is at its highest from December to May. Historical records show Indigenous Australians used fire to shape and manage the land, but centuries of European colonisation have led the landscape to become overgrown and prone to bushfires. At the same time, climate change is causing prolonged bushfire seasons while reducing opportunities for controlled burning activity. Increasingly frequent and intense bushfires over the past decade have led to growing public pressure on the Australian government, which has been ranked as one of the worst performers on climate change policy by the Climate Change Performance Index (CCPI).…

JOSÉ PIZARRO Spanish chef and author José is the man behind three London restaurants — José Tapas Bar, Pizarro Bermondsey and José Pizarro Broadgate — and he opened his fourth outpost, The Swan Inn, in Surrey in 2019. One of the UK’s mostrespected names in Spanish cuisine, José has also written five critically acclaimed Spanish cookbooks; his most recent is Andalusia: Recipes from Seville and Beyond. ALDO ZILLI One of the country’s best-known celebrity chefs, Aldo is an awardwinning restaurateur specialising in Italian, seafood and vegetarian cuisine. He was founder and chefpatron at some of London’s most exciting and innovative restaurants and is a regular face on television and radio, both as a presenter and chef. He’s also penned 10 books, including two autobiographies and a number of cookery books.…

@NATGEOTRAVELUK Follow us on Instagram for inspiring travel photography every day @jonathanbrennan_ Smithfield, London @thehistoriantraveller St Stephen’s Cathedral, Vienna, Austria @worldcitizensud Double Arch, Arches National Park, Utah, USA @melissafileppi Pushkar Camel Fair, Rajasthan, India @bam_perspectives Jersey, Channel Islands @insearchofperfect Göreme, Cappadocia, Turkey @francescaapage Heron Island, Queensland, Australia @the_traveling_zam Antigua, Guatemala @c.tuckwellsmithphoto Walrus, Svalbard…

Gauchos have been roaming the plains of Argentina since the 18th century, earning their trade by running estancias, herding cattle, sheep and horses and living off the land. Two hours outside the city of Mendoza, in the shadows of the Andes, I met Daniel at his ranch. Dressed in the classic brimmed hat and wide-legged trousers, he saddled up a horse and instructed me to follow him. We clip-clopped through streams, along ridges and through fields before rounding up his 60 wild horses. Winding down afterwards was done in true Argentine style: with local wine, a traditional asado barbecue and the screech of condors overhead. jonjorooney.co.uk @jonjorooney…

Lahti The European Green Capital 2021, 60 miles north of Helsinki, has been busy carving out an environmentally conscious new identity. Aiming to become Finland’s first carbonneutral city by 2025 (with the whole country doing the same by 2035), Lahti’s green initiatives range from heating systems powered by recycled fuel to transforming the harbourside area from old industrial port to a thriving hub of restaurants and cafes — perfect for soaking up the 24hour summer sunshine. greenlahti.fi Oslo Pledging to cut carbon emissions by 95% by 2030, the Norwegian capital is aiming high with its green goals — hardly surprising in a country already supplied almost entirely by renewable energy. For now, at least, all eyes are on one of its newest city developments: the ecofriendly neighbourhood of Vulkan, where…

1 URBAN LOFT KÖLN It has world-class galleries and a titan of a gothic cathedral, but while visitors love Cologne for its heritage, it seems hoteliers prefer things to be altogether more modern. Case in point: this, the first in a new offshoot from a traditional hotel brand. Althoff Hotels — formerly known for its ‘Collection’ properties — launched its new project, Urban Lofts, in October 2020. Rather than a classic hotel, this is a self-described ‘experience’. Murals swaddle the outside of the building, while inside, wide open spaces with plenty of natural light and bright colours (think millennial pink) vie for your attention. The ‘loft’ theme is subtle in the rooms, too, with faux brick walls behind the beds, cement-grey ceilings and doorless cupboards putting everything on display. Don’t…

WATEGOS BEACH I’d definitely recommend Wategos as the best place for beginners. Not only is it a great beach, but there’s also soft wave and it gets a little less swell than some of the other breaks because it’s so tucked-in there behind Australia’s easternmost tip. THE PASS This spot is beautiful and they’ve got good surf schools, too. While the wave can get a little bit faster here, five out of seven days of the week it’s still gentle enough to head down there with a longboard. It’s without doubt a really good spot for beginners. LENNOX HEAD You have to jump off the rocks to get out at Lennox Point, which can be quite tricky. The wave is quite fast and difficult to surf for novices — you’ll…

How do you prepare for your journeys? The starting point is always a map and a glass of whiskey. It’s the best way to start your research! Then there are four elements to consider: mental, physical, logistical and human. I make sure I know the right person, the right place, and that I have access to what I want to explore. As I’m preparing, I get so close to the subject that, by the time I arrive, 70% of the job is pretty much done. You’ve cycled the length of the planet, from Arctic Norway to the tip of South Africa. What’s the biggest lesson you learnt on that journey? I had a near-death experience with heat exhaustion and had to be rescued by a local tribe — my malaria-ravaged…

RAFTING From March to October, following the winter snowmelt, the river Struma becomes an aquatic adventure course. Rafting BG runs whitewater rafting and kayaking tours that follow a 7.5-mile route through the stunning Kresna Gorge, with rapids ranging from grades two to four, depending on conditions. rafting.bg ROCK CLIMBING Just over a mile from Bansko, Pirin National Park offers climbing routes for all levels. Further afield, Vihren peak attracts experienced climbers with its 1,300ft marble and limestone wall. summerbansko.com ZIP-LINING There are two zip-lining options near Bansko. The first, operated by Rafting BG, sends visitors flying on a 100 metre-long line above the raging Struma. The second, at Mountain Club Bulgaria in Dobrinishte, offers a series of adult-and child-friendly zip-line jumps that help you gradually build up to the highest…

1 TARTE FLAMBÉE Less a tart than a thin-based pizza, this substantial snack comes topped with a mixture of fromage blanc and cream, plus lardons and onions, and is the ideal accompaniment to the region’s simpler white wines. You’ll also find it called flammekueche. 2 BAECKEOFFE Long ago, women would take this stew of potatoes, onions and meats marinaded in white wine to the baker, who’d add a pastry crust and stick it in the cooling communal oven while the women did their laundry. Then they’d collect it on their way home. 3 RIESLING The region’s signature grape is almost invariably bone-dry but can be very aromatic. Don’t get bogged down in the befuddling Grand Cru system — visit a wine bar or restaurant and try a couple. 4 CHOUCROUTE…

Hiking the Fish River Canyon Trail More than 650 million years in the making, Fish River Canyon is Africa’s mightiest gorge. Snaking through weathered layers of cocoacoloured sandstone, dolomite and gneiss, it dominates the arid northeastern reaches of the Ai-Ais Richtersveld Transfrontier Park, along the border with South Africa. Visitors can drink in the canyon’s stark drama from Fish River Lodge, whose luxurious contemporary chalets perch on the rim, or from the public viewpoints. However, the most exciting way to experience this exceptional location is to tackle the classic 55-mile, five-day hike from Hobas to Ai-Ais Springs, wild camping on the way. While it offers epic scenery, starry nights and a true sense of adventure, it’s not exactly a breeze: you’ll be on your feet for up to eight hours…

“The Arctic is like a drug — it’s addictive. It’s such a powerful feeling, to bring passengers to a place nobody’s been before. To start with, you put your feet on an unknown place and think, oh, it’s the same rock as near my house. But when you think that maybe no humans have ever been on that beach, it’s something completely alien. When you set foot on a place with no chart info, and you’re the first to be there, it’s an incredible feeling. Man reached the North Pole in 1969 — the same year we set foot on the moon. These places are just incredible, and we write the story with our passengers. I’m not interested in the luxury of the ship — for me, the most exciting…

Working with his fisherman father from the age of 12, Per Sævik grew up watching ships slide up Norway’s west coast. Today, he and his children own Havila, a shipping company that’s set to launch four new cruise ships on the classic Bergen-Kirkenes route for 2021. The 12-day return voyage includes stops at 34 ports, slipping through narrow fjords and skimming gargantuan sheer cliffs, ticking off no fewer than four UNESCO World Heritage Sites and crossing the Arctic Circle twice as the boat connects remote coastal communities. Locals will also use the boats as a point-to-point service. The focus is on seeing life as the Norwegians live it, so at each port, the chefs will source local ingredients, from juicy, just-netted cod to golden cloudberries from the far north. Highlights…

On-board medical staff will be key to keeping passengers safe, as will rapid testing facilities. On Ponant ships, whose onboard protocol has been developed in conjunction with the Méditerranée Infection Foundation, Covid-19 tests can be processed in as little as 20 minutes. Expect to need a negative Covid-19 test before boarding, and to have your temperature taken every time you get on or off the ship. Some companies will go further — Variety Cruises, for example, will screen passengers and crew for body temperature, infectious antibodies and blood oxygen content daily. Mask policy will depend on the cruise line. Cleaning will likely be upped. Expect hospitalgrade disinfection and UV sterilisation of staterooms and even the air con. There may be unexpected perks too, in the form of smaller group excursions…

A clean getaway? Emissions are the big issue when it comes to ships, and several smaller cruise lines have been making progress in this area. Aurora Expeditions, for example, uses marine gas oil instead of diesel, and has bows designed to reduce fuel consumption and emissionscutting engines. All Ponant vessels have achieved high ratings from Cleanship, which tackles the environmental impact of the maritime industry, and produce minimal noise and vibrations, which are disturbing to marine life. And Hurtigruten, which has banned heavy fuel oil across its fleet, is retrofitting ships with LBG (liquefied biogas) and LNG (liquefied natural gas) engines and battery packs in a move that, it’s hoped, will reduce nitrogen oxide (NOx) levels by up to 90%. Out with the old New ships are being built with…

Tokyo is a city of mind-boggling immensity: it sees a population of 14 million people crammed in between green hills and Pacific tides. But inquisitive visitors to the capital soon realise that stillness and nature are never too far away — places where the rumble of traffic gives way to birdsong, where skyscrapers are replaced by avenues of cherry trees and where cooling onshore breezes banish any sense of lingering claustrophobia. Many of these sites exist right next to some of the busiest corners of the city. Within a short stroll of the bars of downtown Shinjuku, you’ll find yourself alone among the pools and pagodas of the Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden. Just north of the famously lively crossroads of Shibuya is the tranquil beauty of Yoyogi Park, the spiritual…

“We’re basically sitting on a bomb,” says Karen Touchie, nervously laughing into her gin and tonic. Behind us, in a wooden shed Karen and her partner, Gavin Hughes, have converted into a boutique gin distillery, thousands of litres of pure alcohol are stored in a tank. The three of us are seated on the verandah at the North of Eden distillery, in New South Wales’ lush Bega Valley, sipping their award-winning artisan gins while looking out over freshly cut green grass. The scents of oranges and lemons, which are just coming into season, linger in the air and Highland cows low gently nearby. Karen and Gavin’s three-legged border collie, Jim, hobbles closer for a pat. It’s hard to fathom that this is the same spot where, on 30 December 2019,…

£15 FOR 10 ISSUES SAVE 70%! GET YOUR TRAVEL FIX WITH OUR LATEST SUBSCRIPTION OFFER Start planning your next big adventure with a subscription to National Geographic Traveller (UK) — and save a huge 70% on the cover price. For just £15, you’ll receive 10 issues of the awardwinning magazine, packed full of captivating stories, practical advice and photography to inspire your next getaway. Winner of the Best Consumer Holiday Magazine at the British Travel Awards in 2019, National Geographic Traveller is the perfect companion for the curious traveller. GET YOUR TRAVEL FIX WITH OUR LATEST SUBSCRIPTION OFFER A HUGE 70% SAVING ON THE COVER PRICE FREE DELIVERY TO YOUR DOOR INSIGHTFUL FEATURES AND COMPELLING STORIES INSPIRING PHOTOGRAPHY LOADS OF PRACTICAL TIPS AND ADVICE VISIT NATGEOTRAVELLER.IMBMSUBSCRIPTIONS.COM/SALE21 OR CALL 01293 312166…