Innholdsfortegnelse for Winter 2022/23 i National Geographic Traveller Food

National Geographic Partners Editor-in-Chief, NG Media: Nathan Lump General Manager, NG Media: David Miller International Editions Editorial Director: Amy Kolczak Deputy Editorial Director: Darren Smith Editor: Leigh Mitnick Translation Manager: Beata Nas Editors: CHINA Sophie Huang; GERMANY Werner Siefer; GREECE Kyriakos Emmanouilidis; INDIA Lakshmi Sankaran; ITALY Marco Cattaneo; LATIN AMERICA Roberto Moran; NETHERLANDS Robbert Vermue; POLAND Agnieszka Franus; RUSSIA Ivan Vasin; SOUTH KOREA Bo-yeon Lim; SPAIN Josan Ruiz; TURKEY Zeynep Sipahi International Publishing Senior Vice President: Yulia P. Boyle Senior Director: Ariel Deiaco-Lohr Senior Manager: Rossana Stella Headquarters 1145 17th St. NW, Washington, DC 20036-4688, USA National Geographic Partners returns 27% of its proceeds to the nonprofit National Geographic Society to fund work in the areas of science, exploration, conservation and education. Copyright © 2022 National Geographic Partners, LLC. All…

TH EEXPERTS Alice and Lucy Johnson Founders of Vegan Sisters Adrienne Cooper Founder of Fun Foodie NYC Joelle Thomson New Zealandbased wine writer Olia Hercules Author, Mamushka: Recipes from Ukraine & Beyond Which vegan meal kits would you recommend? Alice and Lucy Johnson: For breakfasts that deliver olfactory delights, Dishoom’s Bombaystyle meal kits (from £18 for two, dishoom.com) hit the spot. The Vegan Sausage Roll Naan Kit features sausages created by renowned chef Neil Rankin, tomato chilli jam, cream ‘cheese’, coriander and spices for a steamy pot of comforting chai. The kit with a bloody mary is perfect for an extra kick. Pasta-lovers should order from Pastan (pastan.co.uk). Mix and match from the selection of vegan pasta, gnocchi and scintillating sauces (pasta and gnocchi from £4, sauces from £6) or…

Clouds of whipped cream loaded with thick curls of bitter chocolate, kirsch-soaked chocolate sponge, pockets of tart, juicy black cherries and a thin, crumbly pastry base: Schwarzwälder kirschtorte (‘Black Forest cherry torte’) is, for many non-Germans, the quintessential German cake. A speciality of the Black Forest region in Germany’s southwest, it’s enjoyed on special occasions and in generous slices as part of the country’s traditional 3pm coffee and cake ritual — often referred to as the fourth meal of the day. It’s an extravagant cake, but one that’s beautifully balanced in flavour and texture, and for all its chocolate, cream and cherries, not too sweet. The origins of its name are hard to pin down: some believe the chocolate shavings are a tribute to the deep, dark Black Forest, while…

New York cheesecake The creation of this baked American version is credited to Arnold Reuben — who was owner of Reuben’s Restaurant and Deli in Manhattan, and creator of the eponymous sandwich — in the 1920s. Its chief component is cream cheese (industrially produced, spreadable soft cheese was a 19th-century US invention), while the base is usually made from graham cracker crumbs, with eggs, sugar, double cream and soured cream the other classic elements. The results are smooth and rich. WHERE TO FIND IT: Head to Junior’s, founded in Brooklyn in 1950, for a slice of its famous version. juniorscheesecake.com Smaland ostkaka While there are plenty of regional variations of Sweden’s beloved cheesecake, Smaland ostkaka, from the south, is the best known. Traditionally, the first step is to curdle large…

Cakes & Bubbles, London As the former pastry chef of El Bulli, Albert Adrià has a reputation for dessert perfection. Choose from the likes of Basque burnt cheesecake, golden egg flan, chocolate yuzu castella cake, and a dish simply called ‘The Cheese Cake’. Made with baron bigod, it looks like a washed rind cheese, but the ‘skin’ is actually made of hazelnuts and white chocolate. And there’s a great list of sparkling wines to wash it all down. cakesandbubbles.co.uk KOI Dessert Bar, Sydney Former MasterChef Australia star Reynold Poernomo and his brothers Ronald and Arnold are the trio behind KOI Dessert Bar, a slick, minimalist spot in Sydney’s Chippendale neighbourhood, where immaculate patisserie is served alongside stiff drinks. Try the multi-course set dessert menu, or go a la carte: the…

Massaman isn’t like other Thai curries — at least, not the well-known ones. Rather than being chilli-hot — like a green or red curry — it’s positively mellow, featuring ingredients that might seem more at home in a Middle Eastern spice market or an Indian kitchen than a Thai dish. Mace, nutmeg, cloves, cassia, bay leaves and nuts all play a part in this rich, aromatic, slow-braised dish’s distinctive character. Massaman curry, as we now know it, probably started life in the 17th century, but its origins stretch much further back. Thailand, which was known as Siam until 1939, was never colonised by Europeans, but has been an important part of trade routes connecting East and West for thousands of years. Recent archaeological finds in Thailand provide evidence of this;…

A flash of red and grey feathers. The pungent smell of durian fruit. I crane my neck, raising myself up onto my tiptoes to see what everyone’s crowding around. There’s a blue bird cage mounted on a wheeled walking frame, sunflower seeds scattering at our feet. A woman, perhaps in her early seventies, is taking her pet parrot shopping. I’ve come to Bedok — one of Singapore’s oldest residential neighbourhoods, in the east of the city — to meet three generations of the Soh family, who have called this area home for almost eight decades. They’ve brought me to 58 Bedok Market, a low-rise, red-and-whitetiled building stocking everything from fish balls to toilet bleach. We’re here to pick up seafood and spices for lunch at their home and cooking school,…

THE OLD AND THE NEW ESTAMINET CUISINE Au Vieux de la Vieille, in Lille’s old town, is a curious spectacle. Step inside and you’ll find a space that feels like a cross between a front room and a rustic pub. Shelves are stuffed with trinkets and bric-a-brac, the ceiling is strewn with dried hops, and diners sit on and at wooden chairs and tables that have likely served generations of visitors. This is an estaminet, a traditional tavern found across northeastern France. And the menu is almost as curious as the decor. Estaminet classics include potjevleesch, a terrine-like dish comprising four kinds of meat suspended in a cold aspic jelly (better than it sounds); carbonnades de boeuf, also known as carbonnade flamande, a rich beef stew made with beer and…

How would you describe the cuisine of the Hebrides? Our food is very simple; lamb and mutton are our traditional meats and potatoes are our traditional vegetables. We use mutton because we can’t really grow lambs big enough here unless we move them to the mainland to fatten up, so we have to keep them for longer. There’s a bit of snobbery around mutton elsewhere — that it’s not as good as lamb — but in the Hebrides, the animals are fed on heather hills that give them a really distinctive flavour, which I love. And our potatoes are grown on the machair, fertile grasslands by the beaches; I think that makes them the tastiest in the world. What shapes Hebridean food culture? The food culture in the Hebrides is…

CLANFIELD, COTSWOLDS • COUNTRYCREATURES.COM/DOUBLE-RED-DUKE Is there such a thing as the perfect aubergine dip? I’d say the wood-fired miso-flavoured version I’m presented with at The Double Red Duke must come pretty close. Mixed with sesame seeds, mint leaves and the silkiest of olive oils, it’s a smooth, creamy, smoky starter, just tangy enough to make my mouth tingle. If dinner was just a bottomless tub of it, I’d be quite content. In reality, there’s plenty more to come. I’ve eschewed the main courses and instead ordered a handful of small plates, to get a good taste of what’s on offer at this cosy 17th-century coaching inn. Here, the kitchen is headed up by Swedish chef Henrik Ritzén, formerly of fine seafood restaurant Fiskekrogen in Gothenburg. The dishes are made from…

I’VE BEEN EATING… The seven-course lunch tasting menu at Akoko, in Fitzrovia, London. It’s a spellbinding dining experience, with dishes showcasing a mix of fine seasonal British produce and West African culinary influences. The signature jollof rice is worth the visit alone, while the bespoke crockery, pottery and cutlery that come with each dish really elevate the experience. Glen Mutel, editor What’s your go-to Christmas leftover meal? TURKEY SANDWICH I slather the bread (whatever’s in the house) with Dijon mustard before stuffing it with slices of leftover turkey and tons of Turkish pickles. FZ MAC AND CHEESE A concoction of cheese, stuffing, Marmite, brussels, red cabbage, turkey and crispy smashed potatoes. Not for the faint hearted. Lauren Gamp, art editor CURRY A curry with leftover ingredients — turkey, potatoes and…

Lauryn Ishak I thoroughly enjoyed spending time with, and photographing, the Soh family. They took us to local markets, a hawker centre and showed us how to cook the foods they love. It was a privilege to dive into their world and see the passion they have for their family, for social causes, for food, and how they share that with the world. BREAKING BREAD, P 96 Aimee Levitt Chicago is my favourite city, which is convenient since it’s also my home. It was a pleasure to think back on some of my most memorable meals here, the ones that inspired me to literally lick the plate. There were many more that I could have included; winter is long here and eating keeps our spirits up. CHICAGO, P 116 Jennifer…

Walnuts have a rich culinary history — in fact, they’re the world’s oldest tree food, with archaeological evidence of their consumption by humans dating back as far as 7000 BC. They were first cultivated in the Middle East 4,000 years ago, and today they’re grown and eaten all around the world. They’re one of my favourite ingredients to cook with. Not only do they have health benefits — being rich in Omega-3, for one — they’re also quite versatile and work in a surprising array of dishes. I find they’re best when roasted, as this brings out both their pleasing aroma and crunchy texture while also taking their flavour to the next level. I particularly like to use them in desserts as they’re mild, fruity and earthy and complement other…

Food from Sierra Leone, where my dad’s from, has been a big part of my life. Sweet potato leaf stew is something my mum would cook all the time, it was my absolute favourite. Coming home after school to those home-cooked meals is a fond memory. I can cook. I love to make groundnut stew with chicken and I’ve been told it’s good. It’s my mum’s recipe, she taught me to how cook it in the kitchen of my childhood home in London. She would talk me through all the ingredients and the importance of the cooking sequence — that’s the key. When I started making my own breakfast as a kid, that was a big deal. Although it was pretty much just cereal and using the toaster, it gave…

Dobos torta This Hungarian cake, also known as dobosh, has several thin layers of sponge and chocolate buttercream and a hard, shiny caramel topping. It’s named after Budapest pastry chef and delicatessen owner József Dobos, who invented it in 1884. Southern coconut cake There’s no definitive recipe for this special celebration cake from the American South. Coated with white frosting and coconut flakes, the three simple butter cake layers might be flavoured with almond, coconut or vanilla, and incorporate a lemon or pineapple filling. Opera cake This elegant Parisian cake comprises six layers of nutty almond sponge soaked with coffee syrup, smooth coffee buttercream and a rich chocolate ganache. It’s finished with a chocolate glaze and the word ‘Opera’ is traditionally piped on top. Vínarterta Also known as lagkaka, randalín…

There’s a lot of nostalgia associated with pastry and cake baking in Sweden. And few dishes evoke it better than Budapestbakelse — or Budapest cake. Day to day in Sweden, we make cinnamon buns and home bakes such as the chocolate kladdkaka. But for special occasions, only fancier cream cakes will do. Budapest cake is a type of Swiss roll, made from a sheet of baked hazelnut meringue, filled with whipped cream and, most often, fresh or canned mandarin segments. You’ll find it at every local konditori (bakery/cafe). It was invented in the 1950s by Ingvar Strid, a well-travelled Swedish pastry chef, who loved the Hungarian capital. After one of his many visits to the city, he decided to adapt a Hungarian dessert called the esterházy torta — acake with…

St Eia, in St Ives, is a small wine bar and bottle shop with a selection of rare and distinct wines. In winter, its simple menu draws on heartier ingredients such as charcuterie and mountain cheeses, which make the ideal snacks to accompany the daily-changing choice of wines by the glass. Over in Falmouth, restaurant Mine partners with small sustainable farms to ensure many local Cornish ingredients make it onto its weekly rotating menus, whether that’s crab, trout, kale or wild mushrooms. Elsewhere, Verdant Brewing Co has been at the forefront of the UK’s craft beer scene, and is synonymous with hazy, hop-forward IPAs. The firm’s beer can be found in pubs across the county, as well as in its seafood bar in Falmouth. It has also recently opened a…

For years, Clitheroe’s main claims to fame were its role in the development of the jet engine, its ignominious association with the Pendle witch trials, and — for those old enough to remember — the BBC radio programme The Clitheroe Kid. More recently, though, the Ribble Valley market town has made a name for itself as a culinary destination, thanks to a winning combination of established foodie favourites and exciting new openings. Every July, Clitheroe Food Festival commandeers the marketplace and its surrounding streets to bring local artisanal produce and global cuisines to town. For the rest of the year, however, there’s plenty to try at the covered stalls of Clitheroe Market, which opens on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays. It’s been going since the 12th century and plays host to…

OUR PICK HOPPERS: THE COOKBOOK Karan Gokani As co-founder and creative director of Sri Lankan restaurant chain Hoppers, Karan Gokani is no stranger to big flavours. And his first recipe book is full of them, from devilled dishes to spiced snacks. Hoppers: The Cookbook is an ode to the country and cuisine Gokani has spent years exploring, interspersing recipes with travel tips, stories and celebrations of the people he’s met along the way. There are detailed guides to the Sri Lankan larder, too, showcasing essential herbs, spices and curry powders, as well as simple substitutions for hard-to-find ingredients. Among the recipes are many of Gokani’s signature dishes, including bone marrow varuval — beef bones in a rich, spiced coconut-based sauce. And, of course, there’s also a recipe for hoppers: crispy,…

It’s the classic dining dilemma — what’s the best way to finish off your meal? Cheese board or dessert? A portion of camembert or a piece of cake? A sliver of gorgonzola or a slice of gateau? It’s a tough one. Of course, sometimes the correct answer is a bit of both — and so it is with our winter issue, in which we’re serving up hearty portions of these two classic comfort foods. For dessert lovers, we’re celebrating the showstopper — those indulgent, often stunning centrepiece puddings that form the high point of any dinner party and are the stars of the festive season. In our cover story, we take a look at how to make them, where they came from and where to find them — everything from…

Nothing marks a special occasion like a bottle of champagne. That’s been the case for as long as most of us can remember and, despite other options moving in and out of fashion, it still is. The champagne houses have been extremely clever about protecting their patch. No other wine-producing region is allowed to use the C word. What’s more, other producers can’t even use the term méthode champenois, even if they follow the same production method, which involves months of ageing and a secondary fermentation in the bottle. All champagne is produced within an area of vineyards no bigger than 84,000 acres, yet there are different styles. Vintage champagnes — those made from a single, particularly good harvest — are aged for longer and are generally weighty wines that…

Not one crumb is out of place on Café Sacher’s sachertorte. A slick of smooth apricot jam is sandwiched between two layers of neat chocolate sponge, the whole thing cloaked in a precisely 4mm-thick layer of chocolate glaze before it’s cut into perfectly neat wedges. And it ought to be perfect; this is, after all, a cake so precious to Viennese culinary culture that for years it was at the heart of a legal battle. Dating back to 1832, the recipe was created when a 16-year-old court kitchen apprentice named Franz Sacher found himself having to create a dessert fit for royalty. Prince Klemens Wenzel von Metternich had requested an impressive finish to a meal for his esteemed guests, and with a poorly head chef, the task fell to young…

Choux pastry comes in many guises, from eclairs to profiteroles, chouquettes to gougères. But for maximum wow factor, nothing compares to le croquembouche. This ostentatious showstopper is essentially a towering cone of choux pastry puffs, each filled with creme patissiere, woven together with caramel and resting on a nougatine base shaped like a crown. Made for sharing, it’s served on special occasions. Its origins lie with one of the founders of classic French cuisine, Marie-Antonin Carême, who, in the early 19th century, worked as chef for the influential French diplomat and gourmand Charles Maurice de Talleyrand-Périgord. According to expert pastry chef Fabrice Danniel, from Cordon Bleu Institute in Paris, Carême’s first versions consisted of pyramids of fruits and nuts held together with caramel: “People would take a piece of fruit…

Peaches and cream schaum torte by Shauna Sever You’d be forgiven for mistaking the schaum torte for pavlova, but there are crucial differences. Brought to the US Midwest by immigrants from the German Confederation in the mid-19th century, it predates the pavlova, Sever tells us. In addition, no cornflour is used to create meringue layers, which tend to be less billowy than a pavlova’s because they’re baked in cake tins before being stacked with layers of whipped cream, ice cream and fruit. Whereas some devotees among the Wisconsin supper clubs, where the torte is particularly popular, insist on sliced strawberries, Severs has used peaches here instead. From Midwest Made: Big Bold Baking from the Heartland (£25, Running Press) Watermelon jelly with jasmine, chocolate and pistachio by Ben Tish Tish’s trifle…

IT’S 9AM ON A CHILLY MARCH MORNING AND I’M STANDING IN THE SUNSHINE WATCHING TWO MEN SELLING FISH. One is serving customers directly from his moored fishing boat, the other from the docks at the Old Harbour in the port city of Wismar. Between them are stacks of red and green crates, a heap of plastic bags into which they slip their freshly caught, shiny silver fish, and a blackboard scrawled with one word: herring. Today is the first day of Wismar’s annual two-week herring festival, and local fisherman Martin Saager is busy arranging wooden tables and benches next to a small white tent from which he and his colleagues will shortly be selling fried herring. Martin started his own business in 2003, after fishing for his father’s company for…

“Everyone will tell you their granny made the best khachapuri in the world,” Maka Shengelia says, breaking up the bright orange egg yolk with her fork and stirring it into the bed of soft white cheese beneath. She dabs butter onto the crunchy crust of the boatshaped dough that cradles the gooey mixture, and we dig in. In Georgia, khachapuri is enjoyed at every type of occasion and any time of day, whether for breakfast, as a quick snack or as part of a lavish dinner feast known as a supra. Maka, a culinary guide in Tbilisi, has brought me to Retro, one of the capital’s many sakhachapures (khachapuri cafes), for a taste of the house speciality: Adjarian khachapuri, named after the Black Sea coastal region from which it —…

Chicago has been called many things: ‘the great American city’, ‘the Windy City’, ‘the second city’… And although the latter was intended as an insult when New Yorkbased writer A JLiebling penned it in a 1952 travelogue, Chicagoans have embraced the epithet, if only to disprove it by showing their city is second to none — especially when it comes to dining. Perched on the southern shore of Lake Michigan, Chicago has access to so much fresh produce that farm-to-table isn’t so much a novelty but more an expectation — particularly at high-end restaurants. Over the past two decades, the most interesting of these have moved from the central business district, known as the Loop, to the former industrial area, now called the West Loop. Here, on weekend evenings, diners…

INTERVIEW: FARIDA ZEYNALOVA There’s just no stopping Babel; since it opened in 2008, the highly acclaimed restaurant in downtown Budapest has not only earned itself a Michelin star and Decanter UK Best International Restaurant, but it’s quickly become one of the leading names on the regional food scene. Owner Hubert details what makes the restaurant tick. HOW DID YOU FEEL WHEN BABEL RECEIVED A MICHELIN STAR IN 2019? I cried — Icouldn’t believe it! I was so grateful because it was the result of 11 years of sacrifices. I remembered all the times I was away from my family, how much time and energy it took. My dream became a reality. DESCRIBE BABEL’S COOKING STYLE. It’s ‘à la minute’ — everything has to be fresh, and we want to affect…