Innholdsfortegnelse for Spring 2022 i National Geographic Traveller Food

Ranette Prime It was a joy speaking to chef Nornie Bero. We both come from rich Indigenous cultures, intrinsically connected to food, music and the coming together of families and community. She’s leading the way in putting native ingredients front and centre of Australian food culture — I made her wattleseed pavlova myself, and it’s delicious. PIONEER, P 38 Alicia Miller The Bahamas is famous for its beautiful beaches, but what they don’t tell you is the food is fantastic, too. From fresh fish, conch and crab to seriously sublime (and strong) rum cocktails, you’ll find delicious things on every island. And the best part is that some of the tastiest food is the cheapest. BAHAMAS, P 106 Sara Roahen I’ve been a student of gumbo for more than two…

KNEADING Preparing Turkish kofte takes strength and patience, as it’s best to mix all the ingredients by hand. Kneading the meat for around 30 minutes will improve the texture and taste. The mixture (lamb meat, lamb fat, breadcrumbs, salt, pepper and baking soda) should end up feeling like dough. SHAPING The kofte can be round, long, square — it’s up to you. I usually make them round or elliptic. Each kofte should weigh about 40-60g and be shaped by hand. Once you’ve shaped them, it’s traditional to stitch them onto a metal skewer before putting them on the charcoal grill. FERMENTATION Never cook the mix straight after you’ve made it. When preparing kofte ‘dough’, it needs to be stored for at least 48 hours in the fridge — this gives…

First cultivated in Naples in the 15th century, artichokes are a true Italian staple. They’re particularly popular in Rome, where they’re simply deep-fried and served as a starter in osterias. And, as a Venetian, they’ve always been a key ingredient for me, too. Preparing them is one of the most technical and intimidating parts of cooking them. During my internship years, the chef would bring me about 14kg a day, which was a challenge; I used — and still use — a small, sharp paring knife to peel the stem and take off the outer leaves until only the tender leaves remained. To test you’ve done this correctly, once the first set of leaves has been removed, bite the next leaf — if it’s tender, you’ve peeled enough. The most…

SERVES: 4 TAKES: 25 MINS INGREDIENTS 300g green asparagus, sliced into 2.5cm chunks2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil½ onion, very finely chopped (optional)6 large free-range eggs1 tbsp ricotta75g parmesan cheese, grated1 tsp chopped chives, for the topping (optional) METHOD 1 Heat oven to 180C, 160C fan, gas 4. 2 Place a medium-sized pan of water over a high heat and bring to the boil. Add the chopped asparagus and cook for 2 mins. Drain and pat the asparagus dry using some kitchen paper. 3 Add the olive oil to a 22-25cm ovenproof frying pan and place over a low-medium heat. Add the blanched asparagus and onion (if using) then sauté for 5 mins, until slightly softened. 4 Meanwhile, put the eggs and ricotta into a large bowl along with a generous…

Originating from Mexico’s rainforests and once picked by the Aztecs to flavour their cocoa, vanilla is today the most used flavouring in the world and second most expensive spice after saffron. It’s also an exceptionally labour-intensive crop, and highly liable to fail. On São Tomé and Príncipe, a tiny island nation off the coast of Gabon, this challenge has brought together two Europeans and a group of local farmers, who are determined to make vanilla growing less risky and bring much-needed income to the islands. Located on the Equator — where vanilla likes it best — São Tomé’s rich volcanic soils produce pods with a distinctly nutty, caramel aroma, which are subtler and more floral than Madagascan vanilla pods and lend themselves to both sweet and savoury dishes. Vanilha, a…

Mapo tofu is the dish that best demonstrates the importance of Sichuan pepper. Without it, it would lose that addictive numbing sensation and mild citrussy aroma. To get the most out of the Sichuan pepper, dry toast it in a pan first to release its aroma and oils, then grind the peppers finely either using a pestle and mortar or a coffee grinder for an even finer texture. In this version the French beans are tossed in a savoury chilli bean paste, earthy black rice vinegar and light soy sauce for pure umami heaven. They also add a crunchy texture and a sweet flavour that complements the spices. The dish is perfect served with plain jasmine rice to mop up the layers of flavours. And, if you’re not afraid of…

SERVES: 8 TAKES: 40 MINS INGREDIENTS large pinch of saffron strands150g caster sugar80ml rose water½ tsp ground cardamom120g plain white flour, sifted160g ghee decorative toppings, such as flaked almonds, chopped pistachios and dried rose petals (optional) METHOD 1 Grind the saffron strands to a fine powder using a pestle and mortar. You can add a small pinch of sugar here to help with the grinding, if needed. Set aside. 2 Add the sugar and 180ml water to a small saucepan and place over a medium-high heat. Bring to the boil for 3-5 mins, stirring to dissolve the sugar, then remove from the heat. Add the rose water, ground saffron and cardamom, and stir the syrup well to combine. Set aside. 3 Add the ghee to another small saucepan and place…

“Further, further, further! Only three more hours,” yells chef Martin Sieberer. We’re at an altitude of over 6,500ft, hiking through sun-drenched alpine meadows to Almstüberl, an almhütte (mountain hut) where, for the summer, Martin is curating the menu. Beef, speck and vegetables infused with mountain herbs is just the kind of hearty dish you’d hope for in this part of Austria, and it’ll be my first meal on the Kulinarische Jakobsweg, a series of six challenging hikes across the Paznaun Valley. All of them lead to these rustic huts, where, every summer, highly regarded chefs transform the usually simple gastronomy served here into something closer to haute cuisine. “You have to sweat if you want to eat,” shouts Martin. Wearing a checked shirt and intricately embroidered lederhosen, the chef —…

SERVES: 6 TAKES: 2-3 HRS INGREDIENTS 135g andouille (or other smoked sausage), sliced into 2½cm-thick half-rounds175ml vegetable oil90g plain flour4 tbsp mild olive oil225g okra, trimmed and sliced into rounds180g tinned plum tomatoes1 large onion, peeled and finely diced200g celery sticks, finely diced1 bay leaf2 garlic cloves, finely diced¼ tsp dried thyme½ tsp dried oregano½ tsp dried basil¼ tsp ground cayenne pepper1.5L seafood stock 225g crab meat (a mix of white and brown is best)250g shelled raw prawns cooked white rice, to serve METHOD 1 Heat oven to 175C, 155C fan, gas 3-4. Lay the sliced sausage on a shallow baking tray and cook in the oven for 35-40 mins, until edges turn brown. Set aside. 2 Add the vegetable oil to a small, heavy-based frying pan and place over a…

Over the past decade or so, Korean cuisine has firmly been put on the map, thanks to the popularity of the country’s films and TV shows, K-pop music and — crucially — the many diaspora chefs serving up Korean classics from London to Los Angeles. If, in the past, visitors would come to Seoul not knowing what to expect from the cuisine, now they arrive with a checklist of things to try: ‘real’ Korean barbecue; the favourite restaurants of K-pop band BTS; the jjapaguri (instant noodles with steak) from Oscar-winning film Parasite… And yet, there’s so much more to the capital’s dining scene. Food plays an essential role in how Koreans tend to socialise, and the country’s history — hundreds of years of isolation followed by Japanese rule and poverty…

THE LOCAL HANGOUT ARAWAK CAY The sun has slipped south of the horizon and the weekend is waning, but Arawak Cay (also known as Fish Fry), in Nassau, is just heating up. It’s Sunday night — locals’ night — and the oceanside streets are clogged with cars, the sidewalks are teeming with bodies and wafts of steam ribbon through the air. Arawak Cay, a long strip of ramshackle restaurants with clapboard exteriors, illuminated signs, faded rum ads and crackling sound systems, is gearing up for a party. At once food hall, nightclub and community meeting house, it’s where Nassau comes to socialise, dance, unwind. And feast. “You’ll see the menus are all about the same,” my Bahamian guide Romeo tells me as he leads us through the crowds towards Frankie…

What are the characteristics of Sri Lankan food? The answer to that is really complicated, which is part of the reason why I’ve written this book. I know there’s a massive diaspora of Sri Lankans around who know their food really well, but [in the] mainstream there’s not a lot of restaurants in Australia that do Sri Lankan food. It’s a curry-based cuisine, but I think there are a lot of [similar] characteristics with Thai food, with that hotsour balance. A lot of it is really spicy, and then there’s sweetness from jaggery, which is similar to Thai palm sugar. And they use bitter greens as well, so there’s that. In terms of ingredients, the main thing you can’t really cook Sri Lankan food without are curry leaves, Maldive fish…

SERVES: 6-8 (MAKES 25-30) TAKES: 50 MINS PLUS 1 HR RESTING TIME INGREDIENTS 6 overripe bananas or plantains, peeled and sliced into small rounds60g plain flour60g fine cornmeal60ml whole milk7g instant-action yeast sunflower or vegetable oil, for deep-frying icing sugar or melted chocolate, to finish METHOD 1 In a large bowl, mash the sliced bananas with the back of a fork. Add the flour, cornmeal and a pinch of salt and mix using a wooden spoon. 2 Pour the milk into a saucepan and place over a low heat until lukewarm. Tip the warmed milk into a small bowl and stir in the yeast. 3 Add the milk mixture to the banana mixture and combine. Cover the bowl with cling film and leave it in a warm place for an…

What kind of food did you eat growing up? Our kitchen was always very diverse. I grew up in Kuwait, and my family cooked mostly Syrian and Palestinian food, but with some Kuwaiti, Filipino and Egyptian influences. What are some of your favourite Syrian and Palestinian dishes? That’s a tough one! My favourite Syrian dishes are kousa mahshi (stuffed courgette), sfeeha (flatbread cooked with mincemeat and spices) and freekeh with chicken. For Palestinian, I’d say musakhan (sumac chicken with onions and flatbread), makloubeh (rice with lamb) and mana’eesh (flatbread topped with za’atar and olive oil). What are your favourite cuisines? I’m a huge fan of Asian food — Indian, Chinese, Korean… you name it! But Middle Eastern is my number one. Where do you get inspiration for your recipes? Mostly…

I’VE BEEN DINING AT… Wood & Water in Brixton, London, the brainchild of restaurateur April Jackson. Standout dishes from the British-Jamaican menu include slow-cooked goat croquettes and salted cod with breadfruit and ackee, but it’s the seared duck breast with jerk and ruminfused plums that’s the real showstopper. Farida Zeynalova, assistant editor I’VE BEEN EATING… The piquant peanut rayu from Dublin-based White Mausu. A mix of chilli oil, chopped peanuts, sesame and garlic, just a little dollop really peps up a steaming bowl of noodles or sticky sushi rice. Connor McGovern, contributing editor I’VE BEEN DRINKING… Hattiers Premium Reserve Rum. Admittedly, there aren’t many rums I don’t love, but this blend of aged rums, made in Devon, is complex and pleasantly spiced, and has seen me through the cold winter…

If you consider yourself to be passionate about food, then there’s a good chance you’re also fascinated by spices. The two things tend to go hand in hand — the more thought you put into what you eat, the more you start to appreciate the transformative power of certain seeds, fruits, roots and barks. But as well as elevating your cooking, an appreciation of spices will also give you a better understanding of how different cuisines work. It’s often such a key point of distinction from region to region — after all, so many of us have grown up eating, say, chicken, but whether you prefer yours cooked with saffron, turmeric, lemongrass or cumin can say something about either where you were raised, or simply which cuisines you’ve gravitated to.…

In some ways, Chilean wine is almost too good value. The problem — if you can call it that — is the basic wines are so drinkable that many people don’t get round to exploring the more interesting, more expensive bottles. Wine has been made here since the 1550s, when the Spanish introduced pais — used, at the time, as a communion wine. But it wasn’t until the 19th century that the foundations of the modern Chilean wine industry were laid — this time due to the French, after Chile’s merchant class developed a taste for their wine and began importing vines from France. Long and thin, sandwiched between the Andes and the Pacific, Chile offers plenty of climatic variety. A coastal mountain range protects the vineyards of central valleys…

The food of my childhood was anything ‘cheap and bulky’. As a result, we looked cheap and bulky. I’m one of eight and we were raised on benefits. Carbs and fats are far less expensive than fruit, veg and protein, and so we were fat, but also quite hungry. We had no flavours in our house: a jar of ‘mixed herbs’ was so old they tasted of dust, and a single nutmeg we had from 1986 to 1989 still had the price label: 13½p. People from big families don’t eat their food, they inhale it. You have to — you can’t pause to chew because someone will lean across your plate and say: “You don’t want that sausage, then?” One year, we ate our whole Christmas dinner in seven minutes. A…

At Big Esso, diners are greeted by a tiger shark. The bamboo sculpture, from Moa Island, in the Torres Strait, hangs from the ceiling, while a wall is adorned with a bold mural by local Indigenous artist and activist Aretha Brown. Cocktails feature ingredients like muntries (berries with a spicy apple flavour), Kakadu plums and Adelaide-made Australian Green Ant Gin. The food menu, meanwhile, features kangaroo, bush tomato and sea succulents. For chef Nornie Bero, ensuring native Australian ingredients are “the hero of the dish” is key to her central Melbourne restaurant. And, she says, although many other chefs do use the likes of wattleseed or strawberry gum, “it’s always been just a tokenistic thing or a little sliver on top — you never really get to taste it. If…

SERVES: 2 TAKES: 18 MINS INGREDIENTS 1 tbsp cornflour1 tsp Sichuan peppercorns1 tbsp rapeseed oil2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped2.5cm piece of ginger, peeled and finely grated1 red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped200g fine French beans, trimmed and sliced into 1cm chunks200g firm tofu, drained and sliced into 1.5cm cubes1 tbsp chilli bean paste1 tbsp Shaoxing rice wine or dry sherry200ml cold vegetable stock1 tbsp tamari or low-sodium light soy sauce1 tsp Chinkiang black rice vinegar2 spring onions, trimmed, sliced cooked jasmine rice, to serve METHOD 1 Mix the cornflour with 2 tbsp water to make a slurry. Set aside. 2 Place a frying pan over a low-medium heat and add the Sichuan peppercorns. Dry toast for 30 secs, shaking the pan to ensure they don’t burn, until they…

Dubai Spice Souk, Dubai, 1 United Arab Emirates Powders and petals in hues from chartreuse to crimson are stacked in tall baskets like fat pencils down the alleyways of Dubai Spice Souk, part of Deira’s market area. It’s separated from Downtown’s shiny, high-rise modernity by Dubai Creek, yet is just as dizzying as the Emirate’s trademark forest of skyscrapers. Don’t be afraid to ask questions — or to haggle. X FACTOR: Dried black limes are a speciality. Mercado Benito Juárez, 2 Oaxaca, Mexico This covered market sells more than simply spices; the vendors here offer everything from tamales and textiles to mezcal and moles. There’s plenty to draw both the eye and nose, not least the array of dried chillies, from ancho to the native pasilla de Oaxaca. X FACTOR:…

SERVES: 4 TAKES: 1 HR 30 MINS INGREDIENTS 10 large porcini or parasol mushrooms, cleaned with a damp cloth and sliced into halves juice of 1 lemon3 large potatoes, peeled vegetable or rapeseed oil, for shallow-frying fresh alpine herbs (such as cress, chives and parsley), to garnish FOR THE PAPRIKA SAUERKRAUT 2 tbsp rapeseed oil2 red peppers, peeled and roughly chopped1 onion, peeled and finely diced1 garlic clove, peeled and finely diced200g fresh sauerkraut4 semi-dried cherry tomatoes10 white peppercorns5 juniper berries2-3 sprigs of thyme1 bay leaf700ml tomato juice1 potato (about 150g), peeled and grated FOR THE CHIVE SAUCE 200g hummus100ml extra-virgin olive oil1 garlic clove, finely chopped juice of ½ lemon1 tsp ras el hanout1 tsp ground cumin1 tsp tahini2 pinches of paprika Tabasco, to taste bunch of chives, finely…

A port city seasoned by salty sea air and spices, Durban is home to a multicultural population whose culinary traditions have influenced its cuisine. At the launch party for Durban Kota House — held at a local backpackers’ hostel ahead of the restaurant’s opening — the courtyard is filled with music, chatter and the scent of cooking. The main attraction is the signature Big Boy Kota. While international visitors might be more familiar with ‘bunny chow’ — an Indian-South African classic of hollowed-out bread filled with curry — kota is an alternative that emerged from the townships. In this version, a hollowed-out quarter loaf of bread is filled with layers of beef patty, bacon, Russian sausage, chicken polony (a type of sausage), cheese, crisps, achar pickle and fried egg. A…

central Norwegian region characterised by a rich, varied landscape, Trøndelag has earned the designation of European Region of Gastronomy for 2022. Its capital, Trondheim, is nicknamed ‘Home of Nordic Flavours’ and offers three Michelin-starred restaurants. So, what lies behind this culinary recognition? It begins with a richly stocked, wild larder. Moose and reindeer populate the high plains and valleys here, and hunting is a traditional pursuit. Meat is eaten fresh, but can also be smoked, salted or turned into game sausages. Seafood from the fjords is in high demand internationally, and cod, lobsters and scallops are central to many dishes. Foragers go deep into forests to find herbs and fungi. Berries are juiced, made into desserts or used to accompany savoury dishes. Seaweed can be pickled or baked and there’s…

SERVES: 6-8 TAKES: 10 MINS INGREDIENTS 400g whole raw cashews40g ghee1 tbsp black mustard seeds6g curry leaves1 tbsp salt flakes, plus extra to taste2½ tsp chilli flakes1 tbsp chilli powder, plus extra to taste METHOD 1 Heat oven to 150C, 130C fan, gas 3. 2 Spread out the cashews on a baking tray and place in the oven for 12-15 mins, giving them a toss 2-3 times throughout, until they are pale golden all over. Set aside to cool. 3 Add the ghee to a large frying pan and place over a high heat. Once it’s melted, add the mustard seeds and fry, shaking the pan regularly, until the seeds just start to pop. Add the curry leaves and fry for 30 secs, stirring, then add the cooled cashews and…

SERVES: 8 TAKES: 20 MINS INGREDIENTS 1 small pineapple (around 750g), peeled and cut into 2cm cubes200g jaggery, chopped (or soft dark brown sugar)1 tbsp chilli powder2 tsp salt flakes1 tsp freshly ground black pepper 1 whole star anise 1½ tsp ground cardamom METHOD 1 Place all the ingredients in a large bowl. Mix well so the jaggery coats the pineapple and almost dissolves. 2 Place a large nonstick frying pan over a high heat, then spoon in enough of the pineapple mix to form a single layer. Leave it to sit undisturbed for 2-3 mins, until the jaggery starts to catch and the pineapple has taken on a bit of colour. Continue cooking for another 7-8 mins, stirring every now and then, until the mixture starts to look almost…

£58 The price per kilo of handmade Échiré butter, produced exclusively by around 60 farms within a 37-mile radius in the Deux-Sèvres department, western France 20.8 THE RECORD TIME, IN SECONDS, IT TOOK AUSTRALIAN SIMARJIT CHHABRA TO BUTTER 10 SLICES OF BREAD, IN MAY 2018 136 The age, in years, of Anchor, the UK’s oldest butter brand, founded in New Zealand in 1886 by Cornish dairyman Henry Reynolds ⅓ The proportion of the world’s milk production devoted solely to making butter, with 20 litres of whole milk required to produce just 1 kilogram 2.7kg THE AVERAGE AMOUNT OF BUTTER CONSUMED PER PERSON IN THE UK IN 2017. THIS IS WELL BELOW THE EU AVERAGE OF 3.8KG 3,000 THE NUMBER OF FIRKINS OF BUTTER DELIVERED TO CORK BUTTER EXCHANGE EACH DAY…

I’m visiting Cork. Where should I eat? Pól Ó Conghaile: Cork is home to a tangle of streets, lanes and quays full of markets, cafes, pubs and restaurants — and a food culture that feels a step ahead of Dublin and Belfast. The city draws from Ireland’s fishing villages, farms and artisan producers, while outdoor dining came to the fore on pedestrianised Princes Street during the pandemic. Start with a wander through the indoor English Market. Pick and mix as you go, or tuck into a market lunch at the Farmgate Café (farmgatecork.ie) above the stalls. From local tripe to lamb stew and smoked haddock fishcakes, the menu is hearty yet stylish. Many of Cork’s restaurants are independently owned. Lots do walk-ins, but book ahead for Denis Cotter’s Café Paradiso…

Throughout my life, I’ve always been immersed in the world of spices. Coming home from school, I was welcomed by their complex yet nuanced smells, each distinguishable and unique. My chosen career then kept me close to these magical ingredients as I explored Indian food. This cuisine is essentially a tapestry of regional cuisines, but the one thing uniting them all is a love of spice. Spices were woven into the fabric of Indian food thousands of years ago for their medicinal properties. But really, they’re prized for their flavour and how they transform ingredients and elevate dishes. Many other cuisines use spices, but nowhere is it used with the same enthusiasm as India, and while the country grows around 50 varieties, only a handful make it into the nation’s…

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Gumbo is a dish that resists definition. For every statement of truth about it, there exists an opposing statement of truth. It’s sometimes served as a soup course, while at other times it’s the centrepiece of a meal. It’s casual, gather-around-the-pot party food, yet it’s also formal, worthy of holiday tables and fine china. It’s always served with rice, except when it comes with potato salad or cornbread. The contradictions don’t end there. The official dish of Louisiana, gumbo is served in practically every restaurant in the state with a locally themed menu. But for many Louisianians, this soup (or is it a stew? Many would argue it’s somewhere in between) is strictly to be made and eaten at home. It can be seafood-heavy or meaty, fired up with cayenne…

Squeezed between the Solent and the New Forest, the market town of Lymington is spoiled for produce from both land and sea. Crab straight from the boat, New Forest venison, tomatoes from the Isle of Wight just across the water — you’ll find it all here. And on a walk along the sea wall, foragers might come across sea purslane, winkles and crab apples. In July each year, the town hosts the Lymington Seafood Festival, offering three days of live music, oyster shucking and more — but food is a yearround preoccupation here. On the quayside, freshly caught fish is sold to wholesalers, while on the High Street, Lymington Charter Market (lymingtonmarket.co.uk) has taken place since the 13th century. Each Saturday, you’ll find the road lined with stalls selling everything…

OUR PICK SAKA SAKA Anto Cocagne & Aline Princet In Saka Saka, chef Anto Cocagne and food photographer Aline Princet have taken on the colossal task of compiling a collection of recipes from across Sub-Saharan Africa, offering an introduction to the region’s many and varied culinary cultures. Alongside 80 recipes, the book features African musicians, writers and creatives discussing their favourite dishes and offering insights into the flavours of countries including Cameroon, Mali, Burkina Faso and beyond. Throughout, the authors convey the vibrancy and history of Sub-Saharan Africa, looking at the how colonisation has affected its gastronomy and why sharing food and stories over the table is so important. There are plenty of accessible dishes, including cassava and prawn fritters and a cooling papaya gazpacho, as well as a few…