Innholdsfortegnelse for Autumn 2021 i National Geographic Traveller Food

Lucy Gillmore Living in the Scottish Highlands, I’ve done my share of whisky tastings and tours, so it was really inspiring to scratch the surface and discover a new crowd of artisan distillers on the east coast who are experimenting with a range of spirits and local ingredients — whether it’s potato vodka or gin made from peas. SCOTLAND, P 78 Ali May I travelled to Slovenia after seeing the exquisite work of chef Ana Roš in a documentary. I admired the harmony between her creations and her surroundings, and there’s a staggering beauty to the Soça Valley and the bites that Roš’s restaurant, Hiša Franko, offers. The combination, dare I say, is unique. SLOVENIA, P 40 Max Brearley As a Brit I’m still, after almost a decade in Australia,…

SAUCE You can buy bottled sweet chilli sauce to go with the fish cakes, but a homemade one is so much better — plus, it’s easy to make. Add cucumber pieces to the dipping sauce for a crunchy freshness. TASTE Once you’ve made the fish paste, cook up a small amount and try it. You may need to add a little more fish sauce or curry paste. Salt and spice levels in different brands of curry pastes vary significantly, so it’s vital to taste and adjust. TEXTURE You’ll need to process your fish cake mixture in a food processor for longer than you think. Processing develops the proteins and makes the paste sticky, allowing it to hold its shape once formed. The paste is ready when it doesn’t fall off…

Native to South America, the pineapple represents some of what the region is about: warmth it’s only grown in balmy weather) and sweetness, contained within a rough exterior. I think it’s a good metaphor for the people and culture. While they’re delicious on their own, pineapples have countless culinary uses, from simple juices to indulgent desserts. At our Latin American restaurant Amazónico, pineapples are the star of the show. We slowly grill them in front of our guests, then glaze them with a delicate syrup made of the fruit’s own juice and brown sugar. The sweetness is off set by a coconut sorbet. Pineapples aren’t limited to use in sweet dishes, however. They make an incredible glaze for a pork chop or chicken, for instance. At the restaurant, we also…

Do you have a recipe for pozole? Margarita Carrillo Arronte: Pozole, a soup of nixtamalised corn kernels, is to Mexico what minestrone is to Italy or borscht is to Russia. This hearty, warming meal is usually made with pork, garlic and mild dried chillies and topped with garnishes such as cabbage, radish, avocado and crisp tortilla pieces. This recipe is for Jalisco-style red pozole. SERVES: 6 TAKES: 1 HR 45 MINS INGREDIENTS 6 ancho chillies, deseeded2 tsp dried oregano1 bulb garlic1 small white onion10 bay leaves500g pork loin500g pig’s head (or pork knuckle or shoulder)2 pigs’ legs, cleaned and quartered1 kg hominy TO SERVE 12 lemons, quartereddried oregano, to tastepiquin chilli (or other red chilli), finely chopped, to taste1 red onion, finely chopped½ lettuce, finely shredded12 radishes, sliced METHOD 1…

MAKES ABOUT 16 MOMOS TAKES 30 MINS, PLUS 1 HR RESTING INGREDIENTS 240g plain flour1 tsp saltvegetable oil, for the bowl and steamer250g ground chicken3 spring onions, finely chopped2 tsp finely chopped fresh ginger2 medium garlic cloves, minced2 serrano chillies, finely chopped2 tbsp soy sauce1 ½ tbsp vinegar1 tsp black pepper FOR THE DIPPING SAUCE 2 large tomatoes, coarsely chopped4 dried red chillies, broken into small pieces6 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped2 tsp tamarind paste2 tsp cumin seeds, toasted½ tsp black pepper METHOD 1 To make the dipping sauce, put the tomatoes, chillies, garlic, tamarind paste, cumin and black pepper into a saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer until the tomatoes have broken down and a chunky sauce is formed, around…

INGREDIENTS 1 large carrot, roughly chopped100g pumpkin or butternut squash, peeled, deseeded and roughly chopped½ red or yellow pepper, roughly chopped2 spring onions, finely chopped2 garlic cloves, crushed1 tbsp dill fronds, finely chopped½ tsp sea salt flakes1 tsp freshly ground pepperpinch of chilli powder½ tsp dill seeds (optional)1 tbsp sunflower oilsour cream, to servehot sauce, to servedill fronds, to garnish (optional) FOR THE DOUGH 250g plain flour, plus extra for dusting½ tsp fine salt METHOD 1 Start by making the dough. Combine the flour, salt and 100ml water in a bowl and mix with a spoon to form a shaggy dough. Transfer to a lightly floured work surface and knead for 10 mins until smooth (a dough scraper helps here). Shape into a ball and transfer to a lightly floured…

Tall Timbers Manjimup wine bar and bottle shop Tall Timbers has a huge by-the-glass range of Southern Forests wine. Try anything from the storied Pannell family, small batch maker Lilian, or newcomers Chateau June-Jerome. Sister venue Tall Timbers Brewing Co is opposite, with beer brewed on site. talltimbersmanjimup.com.au Genuinely Extraordinary Food Tours Organised through the Southern Forests Food Council, these bespoke tours get to the heart of what’s growing in the region, from truffles and avocados to apples and stone fruit. Highlights also include locally prepared meals and wine tastings. southernforestsfood.com/foodandfarmtours Jaspers This Pemberton landmark is a place to discover Australian — particularly West Australian — whiskies, such as Limeburners, from the Great Southern region. It also offers food and accommodation. jasperspemberton.com Southern Roasting Co A local hub on Manjimup’s…

TAKES: 3 HRS SERVES: 6-8 INGREDIENTS 10 sheets fresh egg pasta (approximately)4 tbsp parmesan, grated FOR THE RAGU 2kg minced pork, preferably neck5 tbsp olive oil2 carrots, finely chopped1 celery stalk, finely chopped2 onions, finely choppedsprig of rosemary and sprig of sage, tied together2 small garlic cloves, peeled1 bottle of red wine1 tbsp tomato paste1 litre tomato passata200ml chicken stock (optional) FOR THE BECHAMEL 1.5 litres milka pinch of nutmeg90g butter90g plain flour METHOD 1 Start with the ragu. Take the meat out of the fridge and lay it on a tray, then press it down and let it come to room temperature. 2 Heat the oil in a wide-bottomed saucepan, then add the vegetables, herbs and whole garlic cloves and sweat over a high heat for 5-8 mins without…

OGILVY DISTILLERY, ANGUS The Tattie Box Tours at Ogilvy Farm in Angus takes place in a trailer towed by a tractor. Learn how this family of farmers became a single-estate potato vodka producer. The one-and-half-hour tour is a ground-toglass experience, winding up with a tutored tasting. £15. ogilvyspirits.com DARNLEY’S GIN COTTAGE, FIFE Set in a picture-postcard cottage, Darnley’s offers distillery talks, tours and tastings. At Darnley’s Gin School, visitors can learn to distil, bottle and label their own spirits, made from botanicals grown in the garden. Discover Darnley’s Tour, £12; Darnley’s Gin School, £125. darnleysgin.com SECRET GARDEN DISTILLERY, EDINBURGH In 2012, Herbologist Hamish Martin and his wife Liberty created their Secret Herb Garden on a 7.5 - acre plot of land on Edinburgh’s outskirts. The Gin Garden and Distillery Tour…

Tumbling down a hillside into a sparkling blue estuary cluttered with bobbing boats, Fowey is one of Cornwall’s most postcard-perfect towns. Despite its diminutive size, it’s also among the most exciting for food-lovers. You can hardly go a few paces without coming across another great place to eat and drink, from top-notch local seafood establishments to atmospheric pubs. It was Fitzroy (fitzroycornwall.com) that put Fowey on the culinary map, back in summer 2019. Restaurateurs Jeremie Cometto and David Gingell — the duo behind cult north London spots including Jolene and Westerns Laundry — were enticed by a converted former bank on a corner in the centre of Fowey. And with the opening of Fitzroy came a slew of savvy diners; even now, you’ll need to book well ahead for the…

OUR PICK SAMBAL SHIOK Mandy Yin Having given up a career as a lawyer to pursue her passion for food, Malaysiaborn Mandy Yin opened Sambal Shiok Laksa Bar in north London in 2018. This year has not only seen the launch of a neighbouring restaurant, Sambal To Go, but Yin’s first recipe book, too, which was written during the pandemic lockdowns. For the recipes in Sambal Shiok, Yin takes Peranakan food as her starting point, and is also influenced heavily by Chinese, Mamak (Tamil/South Indian), Malay, Thai and Indonesian cuisines, creating a book that’s a true melting pot of ingredients, flavours and cooking methods. Several of the dishes, writes Yin, aren’t traditionally found in Malaysia, but all are rooted in Malaysian flavours, reflecting a cuisine that’s evolved over the centuries.…

TORQUAY, DEVON • CARYARMS.CO.UK “You never regret ordering sticky toffee pudding,” my friend says sagely, when I question whether there’s time for dessert. It’s a persuasive statement, and when the dish arrives, she’s right. The date sponge is moist but light, the butterscotch sauce has a whisper of salt, and the whole thing is crowned by a sphere of honeycomb ice cream and a roundel of cinder toffee. It’s so rich I wouldn’t be able to eat it alone, but shared, it’s nigh-on perfect. It helps that it’s ideal sticky toffee pudding weather (a high-budget production of The Tempest appears to be taking place outside) and also that the Cary Arms seems built for food like this. The main building, a 19th-century inn, is all low beams, stone walls and…

Why did you start your blog, Onolicious Hawaii? I wanted to share my love for the wonderful food and culture in Hawaii. People tend to picture beaches and vacation, but there’s a whole different side to the island. What do you like to cook at home? Mostly what I grew up eating: a mix of local, Chinese, Japanese, Korean and Vietnamese food, using lots of local fish, meat and vegetables. What inspires your recipes? Family, friends, local restaurants and community cookbooks. Hawaii has a rich history of home cooking. How would you describe Hawaii’s food culture? It’s a melting pot of the many cultures that have immigrated here. Take saimin, a local dish created in the late 1800s when different ethnic groups worked together on the sugar plantation fields. Noodles…

Putting food and drink at the heart of a trip is a really good way to engage with a destination. In some ways, it’s like travelling with an extra antenna — a receptor with which to pick up all the little nuances and quirks a place has to offer. But if you really want to get a sense of what makes somewhere tick, get to know the local speciality — the dish they make in a way that’s uniquely their own; the crop they’ve been growing for centuries; the tipple that tastes like no other. After all, what’s a trip to Sicily without a plate of cannoli? Who could understand the Peloponnese without trying a few kalamata olives? What’s a tour of the Rhine without a glass of riesling? Europe…

In my experience, people who regard themselves as red wine drinkers very often have full-bodied reds in mind. Similarly, others, who declare they don’t really like red wine are also often thinking of that richer style. But both groups too often forget there’s a whole other category of red wine: one that can best be described as ‘light’. Obviously, we’re not talking about weight — so what is meant by light? Well, colour is the obvious starting point. Lighter reds lack the concentration and ripeness of more full-bodied wines and so tend to be paler, sometimes almost translucent — just think of a light red burgundy as opposed to a dark Australian shiraz. A lighter colour is usually linked to lower levels of alcohol. Reds under 13% tend to be…

My first memory of ‘cooking’ was when I was four years old. It was jabłko z serkiem (apple with cheese) — even if the food wasn’t Polish, I remember the names of things in Polish. I’d put a thin slice of havarti, or whatever cheese was lying around, on a thin slice of tart green apple. I’d pretend it was an hors d’oeuvre while watching Sesame Street. Growing up, my mother’s bigos was the most comforting thing. It’s a Polish hunter’s stew with sauerkraut, braised cabbage, plums, red wine and leftover meats like ends of sausages, bison meat or pork, as well as three or four types of kielbasa [Polish sausage]. We’d eat it with fresh rye bread and cold butter. There would also be tons of marjoram, and the…

TAKE A SEAFOOD SAFARI ON THE SWEDISH COAST Any seafood tour of Sweden’s west coast should begin in Gothenburg. This laid-back Scandi port city serves its seafood with a side order of industrial chic — graffitied waterfront warehouse cafes contrast with the linentablecloth restaurants lining the city centre’s wide neoclassical boulevards. Begin at church: Feskekôrka (‘fish church’) on the Rosenlunds canal is home to a wet market and seafood restaurants set under 19th-century vaulted gothic ceilings. The smoked salmon, in particular, is not to be missed. Shrimp-topped smörgås (open sandwiches), along with fishy cheffy offerings dominate menus city-wide but book ahead for six-seater Hoze (hozerestaurant.com), the current hot ticket restaurant, serving sashimi made almost entirely with the local catch. And what a catch: West Sweden is Big Five country —…

SERVES: 4 TAKES: 1 HR 30 MINS INGREDIENTS 125g clarified butter7 medium waxy potatoes (around 900g), scrubbed and sliced to a thickness of 2mm (use a mandoline if you have one)olive oil, for drizzlingfreshly shaved black truffle, to servecreme fraiche, to serve METHOD 1 Heat the oven to 180C, 160C fan, gas 4. Line a 22cm pan with baking paper. 2 Melt the clarified butter in a small saucepan. Toss the potatoes in a bowl with the butter and 2 tsp salt until completely coated. 3 Starting in the centre of the pan, lay the potatoes in concentric circles, with each new slice overlapping the previous one by about two-thirds. This is your presentation layer, so you want to make it as tidy as possible. Continue to layer the overlapping…

What are your memories of the food you grew up with? Macedonian food was all I grew up eating, so the memories run deep. What instantly comes to mind are the filled, savoury pastries, like bourek and banitsa, or the fresh bread my baba (grandmother) used to make. I think about the turshija (pickled vegetables) my uncle made, and the different meze (starters) my mother set out before guests would arrive. I also remember the pileshki gradi (fried chicken cutlets) my aunt would make at every picnic; we’d have them in poupchina (homemade bread rolls) with ajvar (roasted red pepper spread) and cheese. Most nostalgic is the aroma of either zelka mangia (cabbage stew) or gravche supa (bean soup), which my mother or father would make regularly. How did your…

SERVES: 4 TAKES: 1 HR 30 MINS INGREDIENTS 400g sprats100g cornflour, to coatoil, for frying FOR THE MARINADE 2 tsp ground turmeric1 tsp salt¼ tsp garlic powder1/8 tsp chilli powder1/8 tsp ground white pepper METHOD 1 Pat the fish dry with paper towels. 2 Put all the ingredients for the marinade into a shallow bowl and mix well. Add the fish and mix thoroughly, making sure it’s fully covered. Leave to marinate in the fridge for between 30 mins and 1 hr. 3 Put the cornflour into another shallow bowl, then add the fish and coat well. 4 Add enough oil to cover the base of a large frying pan and set over a medium heat. The oil is hot enough when a stream of bubbles rises around the end…

Ix’VE BEEN DINING AT… Los Mochis, a Mexican-Japanese fusion restaurant in London’s Notting Hill. The menu’s highlights include seabass ceviche and spicy hiramasa, but the showstopper was the prawn kushiyaki with guacamole, yuzu aioli and pico de gallo. Farida Zeynalova, assistant editor I’VE BEEN EATING… Fattoria la Vialla. Italian food is popular in my house, and this broad range of specialities is great to dip into. Personal favourites include the excellent sparkling wine, the Viallini biscuits with raisins and pine nuts, and the ridiculously moreish Viallella chocolate and hazelnut spread. Glen Mutel, editor I’VE BEEN MAKING… Tarte au citron by Mon Dessert. This plantbased, gluten-free, DIY dessert kit was easy to follow and produced glorious results. It also came with a sweet little tart tin. I’d happily make it again,…

AD 43-410 THE PERIOD THE ROMANS RULED BRITAIN, DURING WHICH THEY BROUGHT OVER GARLIC FROM ITALY, PLUS ONIONS, ASPARAGUS AND CABBAGES 20,000 THE ANNUAL NUMBER OF VISITORS TO THE ISLE OF WIGHT GARLIC FESTIVAL, WHICH FEATURES STALLS SELLING, AMONG OTHER THINGS, GARLIC-FLAVOURED ICE CREAM, FUDGE AND BEER 1.19kg The weight of the world’s heaviest bulb of garlic, grown in 1985 by Robert Kirkpatrick of Eureka, California 2 The number of garlic types: hardneck and softneck. Most of the bulbs sold in UK supermarkets are softneck, which stays fresh for longer and is easier to grow 70% The humidity needed to produce black garlic. Taking one to three months, the process not only changes the colour of the garlic, it also makes it softer and sweeter 40 THE NUMBER OF CLOVES…

THE EXPERTS I’m planning a trip to Marrakech. How easy is it to dine out as a vegetarian? Christine Benlafquih: Although some of Morocco’s most celebrated dishes centre around meat, vegetarians will have no trouble eating out in Marrakech, with vegetables and legumes showing up in salads, soups, starters and mains such as tagine. Bread is a staple, so look out for khobz (a round, flat loaf that’s used instead of utensils), harcha (a pan-fried semolina flatbread), krachel (brioche-like sweet rolls), batbout (a flatbread) or msemen (square, laminated ‘crepes’). Djemaa el Fna, the city’s main square, is great for street food in the evenings, with stalls serving salads, grilled veg and maakouda (potato cakes) stuffed into bread. If you’re tempted by harira soup (made with tomato, lentils and chickpeas), addis…

It’s ironic that Ana Roš is lauded as an ambassador for her country. Once destined for a diplomatic career, Roš rebelled. In 2000, she and her then-partner, Valter, decided to take over his family business: Gostilna Franko, an osteria-style restaurant in a 19th-century building in Slovenia’s Soča Valley. Having initially helped to manage the restaurant, in 2002 short staffing led Roš to step into the kitchen, where she soon discovered a passion for cooking and experimenting with flavours. She received some local recognition, but it took international journalists three years to take notice; when they did, it was all thanks to a trout broth served with steamed trout and liquid potato ravioli. “It was something that nobody had seen before,” she says. Fast forward to 2021, and the restaurant now…

It’s a winter’s morning on Wilgarup River Farm, but grey skies and a downpour don’t deter Mel Booth as she guides Molly, her adopted Labrador, along the rows of oak and hazel trees. Native bush borders the 150-acre property in Western Australia, and in a nearby paddock, Highland cattle are grazing. Molly lightly paws the earth through a carpet of fallen leaves. Kneeling, Mel works the soil with a trowel, then her fingers, before uncovering our prize — a black truffle weighing about 30g. This variety is most commonly known as Périgord truffle — named for the region in southwest France that’s traditionally been the hunting ground for this sought-after ingredient — but menus have also begun namechecking Manjimup, the closest town to here. Advances in mycology mean black truffle…

To understand the nature of lasagne, ask not what it is or how it’s made but who’s eating it. Like many world-wandering dishes, lasagne is not so much a recipe as a reflection of human taste, in all its wild variety. Ancient Greece can lay some claim to being its birthplace, with laganon. This is said by some to have been the first pasta — sheets of dough cut into strips — from which the Romans likely took the name for their lagane, the basis for lasagne patina. Little is known about this trailblazing dish, except that it called for the inclusion of sow’s belly and fish. Since then, however, it’s travelled the globe, evolving and acquiring innumerable iterations. Lasagne is codified as a classic of Bolognese cuisine by the…

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SERVES: 2 TAKES: 30 MINS INGREDIENTS 600g chicken thighs, skin on, halved30g fresh ginger, grated5 garlic cloves, crushed1 ½ tsp salt1 tsp sugar10ml dark soy sauce380g potato starch½ litre vegetable oil METHOD Put the chicken, ginger, garlic, salt, sugar and soy sauce in a bowl and mix together. Leave to marinade in the fridge for at least 1 hr, or ideally overnight. Coat the marinated chicken in the potato starch. Pour the oil into a saucepan and heat to a temperature of 180C. Carefully add the chicken and fry for 7 mins, or until crispy and golden-brown in colour.…

SERVES: 4 - 6 TAKES: 2 HRS 10 MINS, PLUS AT LEAST 6 HRS SOAKING INGREDIENTS 370g dried cannellini beans, soaked for at least 6 hrs in plenty of water15g unsalted butter1 medium onion, diced1 red pepper, diced1 tsp paprika2 tbsp plain flour1 tbsp salt2 tsp chopped fresh mint2 tsp chopped fresh parsley METHOD 1 Drain and rinse the beans and put them in a medium stockpot with 2 litres water. Bring to a boil over a high heat. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer, uncovered, for 30 mins until tender. Drain and set aside. Heat oven to 190C, 170C fan, gas 5 and boil a kettle. 2 Put the butter in a casserole dish and melt over a medium heat. Add the onion, red pepper and paprika and…

LONDON • IMADSSYRIANKITCHEN.CO.UK The story of Imad’s Syrian Kitchen, which opened in London’s Soho in May, first begins six years and 2,000 miles away. Imad Alarnab was a successful chef in Damascus, with three restaurants and several cafes to his name. Then the war came — and in six short days, each one was destroyed. So it was that Alarnab found himself making the perilous passage across Europe before being granted asylum in the UK. He arrived with £12 — just enough for the bus fare to Doncaster, where his sister lived. After a stint working as a car salesman, he returned to his first love: cooking. He started supper clubs, falafel bars and pop-up restaurants until the time came that he was able to crowdfund £50,000 to open his…