Innholdsfortegnelse for Spring 2021 i National Geographic Traveller Food

Liliana López Sorzano While I’m a native of Colombia, I’ve long had a strong bond with Mexico — I visited regularly for 10 years before eventually moving here. I now live in Mexico City, where I enjoy street markets, great tortillas and various types of chillies. But it’s when I eat a breakfast of chilaquiles that I really feel at home. BREAKFAST, P46 Rebecca Seal When ceviche landed in Europe a few years ago, you’d have been forgiven for thinking it was a new invention. However, the history of this cured fish dish stretches back possibly thousands of years. While writing about it, my cravings went into overdrive, and getting hold of sushi-grade fish became a priority. CEVICHE, P90 Richard Orange The residents of the Svanholm commune were surprisingly sceptical…

10.12kg THE WEIGHT OF THE WORLD’S LARGEST BUNCH OF GRAPES, GROWN IN 2018 BY SEBASTIÁN GÓMEZ FALCÓN IN LOS PALACIOS Y VILLAFRANCA, SPAIN 10,000 THE APPROXIMATE NUMBER OF GRAPEVINE VARIETIES FOUND ACROSS THE WORLD, THE MOST WIDELY PLANTED BEING CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2017 The year dolma-making in Azerbaijan was added to the UNESCO List of Intangible Cultural Heritage. The practice traditionally involves stuffing grape leave with fillings 5,980BC The approximate year from which the earliest evidence of grapebased winemaking dates. In 2017, fragments of 8,000-year-old clay jars containing wine residue were found in two Georgian villages 12 THE NUMBER OF GRAPES EATEN BY SPANIARDS AT MIDNIGHT ON NEW YEAR’S EVE. THE RITUAL IS SAID TO BRING GOOD LUCK FOR THE YEAR AHEAD 50% THE PROPORTION OF THE WORLD’S RAISINS PRODUCED IN…

If you’ve ever wondered why you don’t see more Greek wine on the shelves, you’re not alone. It’s a good question. After all, Greece has an older winemaking tradition than Italy — vines have been grown there since the Bronze Age — and it’s one of Britain’s best-loved holiday destinations. So Greek wine really ought to be more popular in the UK. Simple explanations as to why it’s not might include the unfamiliar grape varieties, or that labels aren’t always in English (although most are translated). Plus the fact only about 13% of Greece’s wine is exported, with the rest consumed domestically. Perhaps the biggest hurdle, however, is that Greek wine is, to many, synonymous with the often offputtingly piney retsina served in many tavernas. Yet the country now produces…

AT HIS LAGOS RESTAURANT, CHEF MICHAEL ELÉGBÈDÉ HAS TAKEN INSPIRATION FROM ALL OVER NIGERIA. THE RESULT IS A STRIKING FINE DINING MENU REFLECTING THE DIVERSE LANDSCAPES AND COMMUNITIES OF HIS HOME COUNTRY. WORDS: LAUREN JADE HILL Poached prawn in banga soup. Mango sorbet with toasted coconut crumble and mint sugarcane agua fresca. Ayamase braised goat coated in puffed ofada rice. At ÌTÀN Test Kitchen in Lagos, chef Michael Elégbèdé is serving up Nigerian food in a whole new way. His goal: to raise the profile of his country’s cuisine. “I want to use my work to educate people nationally and internationally in how dynamic we are as a people through our food,” he says. Elégbèdé’s focus is on Nigerian cooking, but his gastronomic journey began in the US, almost a…

Henri Bardouin With its rounded flavour, this Provençale brand is a great place to start. Created in the rocky hills of Haute-Provence, it’s made using 65 herbs and spices. waitrose.com Combier Pastis d’Antan This old-style pastis from the Loire Valley has a strong aniseed flavour, alongside cardamom, clove and nutmeg. masterofmalt.com Ty Jaune It isn’t just Provence enjoying the resurgence of artisanal pastis. This brand from Brittany uses marine botanicals to add lightness to its flavour. tyjaune.bzh Argala Pastis Italian distillery Argala in Boves (near the French border) makes a deep amber-hued version. Whisky drinkers will like its earthier notes. thewhiskyexchange.com Cornish Pastis Created by Tarquin’s Gin, the UK’s first pastis is created with gorse flowers picked on the Cornish coast. The result is a fresh, citrussy flavour. ocado.com…

There can’t be many self-sufficient, organic communes with close ties to Michelin-starred restaurants, but at Svanholm, chefs popping by to pick up produce is par for the course. Noma, four times named the world’s best restaurant in the respected World’s 50 Best list, sources richly coloured kale, carrots and organic beef here. And until its recent closure, Copenhagen’s renowned Relæ would send its kitchen staff to make the 50-minute drive across the flat, patchwork fields of Zealand and over the glimmering waters of the Roskilde Fjord each day. They’d turn off just before the stately tree-lined avenue leading to Svanholm Gods, a 700-year-old mansion-turned-commune, to harvest vegetables from fields untouched by fertiliser or pesticides for more than 40 years, and to collect fresh, unpasteurised milk for making burrata. When Christian…

If you’d overheard a British restaurant-goer talking about ceviche when it first started appearing on UK menus less than a decade ago, you’d be forgiven for thinking it was a brand-new creation. We knew — or thought we knew — it was a Peruvian dish of cubed raw fish, quickly cured in lime juice, but most of us had no inkling of its millennia-long history. In fact, the concept of ceviche is so old we’ve no recipes for its earliest incarnations, which were probably made in or near Huanchaco, a town on the northern Pacific coast of Peru. There’s good evidence to suggest that 3,000 years ago, fishermen ate their catch straight from the sea, says Maricel Presilla, author of Gran Cocina Latina: The Food of Latin America. Chef and…

Maricel Presilla travelled throughout Latin America collecting recipes for her book Gran Cocina Latina. This is a traditional recipe from Huanchaco. SERVES: 6 TAKES: 35 MINS INGREDIENTS FOR THE VEGETABLE SIDES 450g (trimmed weight) cassava, cut into 9cm sections, to serve2 medium sweet potatoes (around 800g), peeled and sliced into 6cm sections, to serve1 large corn on the cob (fresh or thawed from frozen), cut into 3cm rounds, to serve85g toasted corn (or lightly salted giant corn), to serve FOR THE CEVICHE 900g skinless grouper or sole fillets175ml fresh lime juice (6-7 limes)4 garlic cloves, mashed to a paste with a mortar and pestle or finely chopped and mashed1 small red onion, thinly sliced2 lemon drop chillies (or habanero or Scotch bonnet, preferably yellow), deseeded and lightly crushed1 tbsp fresh…

Situated well north of Downtown, these former industrial areas are changing fast, with a new Université de Montréal campus bringing students, young professionals and families to the area — and plenty of places to eat are springing up as a result. Start with a morning walk in Jarry Park, an urban oasis with bike paths, picnic areas, an outdoor pool, a lake and tennis courts. The park’s central element is the renovated IGA Stadium, the current home of the Rogers Cup tennis tournament, which you can check out even if you don’t have tickets to a match. Grab lunch to go — a freshly fried samosa or gulab jamun from Ram Sweet Shop should tide you over before you make your way west through Little India, where old Greek snack…

Le Mousso Number 16 on Canada’s 100 Best Restaurants 2020 list, Le Mousso serves tasting menus, in which the dishes are simply named after key elements, like ‘sea urchin, hazelnut, caviar’, or ‘honey, buckwheat, peach’. And the food is as pleasing to the eye as the palate. lemousso.com Toqué! Acclaimed chef Normand Laprise is passionate about local produce; during your meal, expect to see producers drop off chanterelle mushrooms or biodynamic ice cider and stay for a drink at the bar. Be sure to order the confit maple duck breast. restaurant-toque.com Portus 360 Served on the rotating 30th floor of a former hotel in Old Montreal, the Portuguese cuisine from chef Helena Loureiro comes with a side of city views. Expect ultra-fresh ingredients in dishes such as pork and clams,…

OUR PICK THE ITALIAN DELI COOKBOOK Theo Randall A cookbook born of lockdown, Theo Randall’s latest off ering pays homage to the humble Italian deli. As head chef of London’s The River Café restaurant for 15 years, Randall noticed how specialist delicatessens provided a lifeline for Italians missing the food of their homeland. And while he’d long wanted to write a book about creating simple, delicious dishes using tinned and preserved ingredients, spending so much time at home last year, with limited culinary supplies, provided added impetus. Featuring more than 100 recipes, the book is broken down by key ingredients, many of them storecupboard staples, such as dried pasta, rice, olive oil, flour and vinegar. You’ll also find sections devoted to cheese, eggs, coffee and more. Recipes range from nduja…

LIVERPOOL • LERPWL.COM Most readers over the age of about 25 will have, at some point, woken up in the area around Lerpwl. It was from a TV studio near here that Richard and Judy roused the nation on This Morning throughout the ’90s. And, indeed, this restaurant in Liverpool’s Royal Albert Dock has something of the pair about it, being warm, eccentric and prone to long-windedness. I visit just before Christmas, in the brief period before everything closes again. Entering through the heavy glass doors, you get a sense of expensive emptiness: a flagstone floor, white walls and ash-and-racing-green leather dining chairs surround a gleaming open kitchen, where a brigade of cooks is hard at work under chef and co-owner Ellis Barrie, who made a name for himself when…

COUNTY GALWAY, IRELAND • ASHFORDCASTLE.COM/EXPERIENCES/TASTE-OF-WEST-IRELAND Baking and I tend not to get on. The process doesn’t fit well with my impatience, nor with my desire to taste my cooking as I go along. Bakers need to measure ingredients, and to keep the oven door shut. But perhaps soda bread, in its wonderful simplicity, is my gateway to the joys of baking. There’s less chemistry involved, less kneading required and, in this case, there’s the serene setting of Ireland’s west coast as an added incentive. “I’m not a baker,” I tell Orla, my instructor for the day, on arrival at her home, a 200-year-old former church in County Galway. She reassures me that I don’t have to be, explaining it’ll take just five minutes to throw the ingredients together before the…

@jecuisinecreole Leslie’s recipes from Guadeloupe have helped me see many ingredients in a new light, and also inspired many of my creations. @jessicain thekitchen Jessica’s mouth-watering vegan food always leaves me hungry, even though I could never be vegan. @thebiteshot Joanie Simon is a food photographer and educator who shares her tips and tricks. She’s helped improve my photography skills. @cheflemaire Haitian chef Lemaire does great work in elevating our cuisine. We’ve never met, yet he’s one of my main supporters.…

Imagine learning that a friend or colleague routinely ate the same lunch or dinner, day after day, week after week? At best you’d think they were missing out; at worst, in need of some sort of intervention. But breakfast is different. Of the three main meals, it’s the only one for which repetition is indulged. Admit to consuming the same bowl of cereal, pastry or Pret muffin every morning and no one will judge you. After all, breakfast is simply fuel, right? And options are often limited, whether by time, appetite or the corridor of one’s commute. Routines, however, are often ripe for reconsideration. Surely, I’m not alone in wanting to do things differently once normality returns? Lockdown seems to have bred in many of us a desire to shake…

BASE Most croquetas are made with bechamel sauce, which ensures a molten interior. To get it perfectly silky, whisk as you gradually add stock or milk to a roux, ensuring zero lumps. Before chilling, the mixture should coat the back of the spoon; it’ll thicken up in the fridge. FLAVOURINGS You’ll find hundreds of flavours of croquetas, including red prawn, chorizo and manchego. One of the most popular is ibérico ham, which is fried with the butter that goes into the bechamel. No ibérico? Serrano or parma ham are good alternatives. SHAPING The classic shape is oval, but if you’re making a large batch, round balls will be quicker to mass-produce. Whichever you go for, each one should contain around 30g of mixture (roughly one tablespoon). If you don’t use…

I’m planning a road trip around New South Wales. Apart from Sydney, where should I stop for the best food and wine? Kate Gibbs: In 2020, the pandemic inspired many Australians to embrace road trips, supporting small producers and businesses along the coast. And in New South Wales, local produce and native ingredients take centre stage. In the surf town of Cabarita Beach, at the recently revamped boutique hotel Halcyon House, the Paper Daisy restaurant pays homage to local ingredients, serving dishes such as spring vegetables with native finger lime, and bay lobster with celery, apple, green garlic and desert lime. Head to Byron Bay for healthy vegan food — try Bang Bang for modern Thai and Combi for delicious smoothies. West of Byron is the town of Federal, where…

You’ll find this dish on the menu at La Table de Beaurecueil in Provence. Chef Réne Bergès believes the key to cooking with pastis is to use it lightly, so it doesn’t dominate. SERVES: 6 TAKES: 1 HR 15 MINS INGREDIENTS 4 fennel bulbsolive oil, for frying1 tbsp wildflower honey2 star anise6 red mullet fillets, bones and entrails removed and reserved½ leek, finely chopped3 garlic cloves, finely chopped1 medium onion, finely chopped1 x 125ml glass white wine120g butter, softened1 x 50ml glass of pastis (or to taste)pinch of dried thymepinch of cayenne pepper6 small to medium tomatoes, or 12 cherry or small plum tomatoes, stalks removedchervil, finely chopped (optional) METHOD 1 Remove the outer leaves of the fennel bulbs and set aside, then dice the inner bulb. Warm a little…

AD 100 The Moche civilisation begins; archaeological evidence suggests they ate a dish similar to ceviche 1492 onwards Onions and limes arrived from Europe, providing a new way to season fish 1867 First mention of ‘seviche’ in print, in La Mesa Peruana, El Libro de las Familias (‘the Peruvian table, the book of families’), a cookbook with a recipe for marinated fish or crayfish 1959 Lima’s first Nikkei restaurant, La Buena Muerta, opens. It’s still running and serves at least seven types of ceviche 1987 Nobuyuki ‘Nobu’ Matsuhisa opens Matsuhisa restaurant in Los Angeles, serving ceviche 2008 The Peruvian government announces an annual Ceviche Day, on 28 June 2012 Ceviche opens in London, billing itself as the first ceviche-and-pisco-sour restaurant in the UK, ushering in a new trend…

The city’s oldest district (no surprise, given the name), Old Montreal was founded by French settlers in the 17th century. Today, it’s a place of cobbled streets and pretty, historic buildings. But being so central, it’s also a hub for business, with tech innovation as easy to find as an exceptional meal. Start in the Old Port and join the locals to walk, skate or cycle the path that stretches 1.5 miles along the St Lawrence River. Look out for the Clock Tower and, if you’re feeling energetic, climb up it for views over the city and the water. Lunch means the area’s best steak-frites, steak tartare or bouillabaisse with a glass of French chenin blanc at Monarque. Since opening in 2018, the restaurant has already become a Montreal institution,…

Pastel Rita This might be the only place in Montreal where you can sip an espresso martini and eat a brightly coloured brassica salad (above) while browsing locally made handbags and good-quality knives. The Mile End shop gets its cool credentials by way of co-owner Gabriel Malenfant, a member of electro-hip hop group Radio Radio. pastelrita.com Antonietta The flame-kissed cacio e pepe pizza, ricotta-hazelnut gnocchi and coffee-crumbed risotto at Antonietta would cost much more if this place were in Downtown, but here, in a quiet part of La Petite-Patrie, the prices are very reasonable. Don’t miss the creamy burrata — essentially a pillow for olive oil-sautéed vegetables, served with house-made focaccia. antonietta.ca Thanjai This family-owned South Indian BYOB restaurant, in Côte-des-Neiges, is worth seeking out for its extensive menu of…

THE FARM ESTATE SÃO LOURENÇO DO BARROCAL The silvery leaves of a 2,000-year-old olive tree are still budding green fruits. Its trunk curves around one of the Neolithic dolmens that scatter the landscape and line the drive to the São Lourenço do Barrocal estate. Perhaps, I muse, a shepherd sat here, chewing olives from this very tree and discarding the stones, back when the wheat fields fed Rome. “Olive oil is very important here,” explains Luis Lobato de Faria, an archaeologist and my guide for the estate’s olive-grove walk. “Every family has an olive tree, and olive oil was once used to light the streetlamps of the regional capital, Évora. There’s evidence of olive oil production here going back 3,000 years.” While the lighting in Alentejo is now electric, wheat…

While many rural towns and villages are struggling to retain their souls, Cranborne is bucking the trend. Set on the edge of the New Forest, in the Dorset countryside, this pretty village is thriving — pandemic notwithstanding. Local landowner the Cranborne Estate nurtures small businesses, and more residents are employed within the village than outside it — many of them focusing on food. It was the quality and quantity of nearby producers that drew Mark Hartstone here 14 years ago. Having trained at Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, he’s now chef-proprietor of La Fosse (la-fosse.com), a compact restaurant with rooms — it has only six tables — on the main square. The menu changes daily, depending on what Mark can source from the gamekeeper, and what his allotments are producing. “I…

One of my favourite parts of a pot of stuffed grape leaves is the meat lining the bottom — crispy in parts, but mostly melt-in-your-mouth tender and rife with flavour. I don’t always have the patience to spend several hours wrapping a whole pot of grape leaves, so I found this way to braise meat, which yields the best part of the whole dish with a fraction of the effort. SERVES: 4 - 6 TAKES: 3 HR 40 MINS INGREDIENTS 795g bone-in short ribs or veal shanks795g boneless beef short ribs or beef cheeks3 bay leaves2 tbsp olive oil1 tbsp pomegranate molasses1 tbsp soy sauce1 tsp nine-spice mix (see recipe online), baharat or Lebanese seven-spice blend½ tsp ground cumin30-40 fresh grape leaves METHOD 1 Place the meat in a large…

FRESH & WILD How Wild Things Are Analiese Gregory Tasmania-based Analiese Gregory’s debut is packed with tales of hunting and fishing, along with plenty of recipes. Some are probably more for admiring than recreating (possum sausages), while others (such as brown sugar-cured hot-smoked trout) are more achievable. £22, Hardie Grant FIRE IT UP Monk Yoshihiro Imai Monk tells the story of chef Yoshihiro Imai’s Kyoto restaurant, where cooking over fire takes centre stage. Expect pizzas topped with mackerel and kamonasu aubergine (a round Japanese variety), plus the likes of kintoki carrot with sake kasu (a byproduct of sakemaking). £29.95, Phaidon BEST OF THE MED Ripe Figs Yasmin Khan In her latest book, Yasmin Khan traces the culinary culture of the Eastern Mediterranean from the time of the Ottoman Empire to…

BATH, SOMERSET • THEBIRDBATH.CO.UK There’s a cat among the pigeons in the lobby. Well, sort of. A huge rug, depicting a red-and-black feline, hangs on the wall, surrounded by an array of taxidermied birds. Hoteliers Ian and Christa Taylor have brought an eye for playful design to this 31-room Victorian townhouse-turned-boutique bolthole in Bathwick, a short walk from Bath’s Pulteney Bridge. The high-ceilinged bedrooms have been refurbished elegantly, with portraits, plush furnishings and sash windows, alongside bold and bright touches, such as lurid Bakelite phones. On the hotel’s lower ground floor is Plate, which opened last autumn. Out on the fairylight-festooned terrace, there are cosy glass dining domes; when I visit, Bath is under tier two restrictions, when socialising means ‘substantial meals’ in the freezing cold — so the domes…

What kind of food did you grow up with? Typical homemade Haitian food, which mostly consisted of meat (poultry on Sunday), plantain or root vegetables, and rice and beans. Describe Haitian food culture. It’s a fusion of the cultures we’ve come into contact with — French, Indigenous, African and Middle Eastern. Our spicy Haitian cuisine is a labour of love and patience. We spend hours prepping food, which we season heavily with epis, our spice blend, and scotch bonnet. We find every excuse to host extended family dinners. What are your favourite Haitian dishes to cook? Dishes that take hours to prepare and are rich in flavour, like tchaka (corn, bean and pork casserole) and kalalou djon djon (beef or pork okra stew with djon djon, a mushroom endemic to…

I’VE BEEN MAKING… A seven-course feast. The Goose Menu Box from Michelin-starred Lyle’s is a finish-at-home kit that includes moreish mussels, a beautiful scallop and artichoke dish, and goose that just falls off the bone. Nicola Trup, deputy editor I’VE BEEN READING… Parwana by Durkhanai Ayubi. More than just a cookbook, it tells the story of an Afghan family who fled war and found solace in their homeland’s cuisine. I’ve plans to make sabzi (spinach and lamb curry) and mantu (meat-stuffed dumplings). Farida Zeynalova, assistant editor I’VE BEEN SHOPPING AT… Giovanna’s, my local Italian deli/wine bar, in Forest Gate, London. They have a great selection of cured meats, cheeses, Italian pantry items and wine from all over the globe. They also make delicious pizza on site for takeaway. Lauren Gamp,…

Horseradish may look similar to a parsnip, but this root packs a real punch. Thought to originate in Eastern Europe, it works with an array of dishes, whether you’re grating it into a Ukrainian borscht or eating it with sushi in place of wasabi (something many Japanese restaurants do in the UK). It requires peeling and, when blended or grated, releases a mustard-like oil, which is where the flavour lies. Blitzed, it’s great for jazzing up storecupboard ingredients; simply combine it with cider vinegar and a little salt, then add a spoonful of that mixture to some creme fraiche or yoghurt, and you’ve got yourself a horseradish cream. Be warned, though: you may want to equip yourself with gloves and goggles before tackling this fiery root — many a professional…

Almost every dish you get in New Mexico has the option of hatch green chile. It’s indigenous to that part of the world. If you get a hamburger, a cheeseburger, scrambled egg — there’s invariably a hatch green chile option. For me, it’s always been the star player of the dishes I get in Albuquerque, where I grew up. In the ’80s, there were a lot of canned soups poured over dishes. The most iconic dish from my childhood is green chile chicken enchiladas. They’re fantastic; my mom made them a lot. She would pour a can of mushroom soup over them, and it was delicious. But when I make them now, I do it with fresher ingredients. I’m an avid cookbook collector. It feels like I get a new…

It’s like a magic trick: when the first drop of chilled water hits the transparent spirit, it turns an opaque pale yellow and a heady plume of aniseed aroma rises from the glass. Under an azure sky, with a row of palm trees in view, I gaze out to the sparkling Mediterranean and sip the drink that encapsulates Provence. Its name says it all: the old Provençal word for ‘mixture’, pastis draws its flavours from the region’s arid landscape and its melting pot of cultures. Aniseed is a flavour found across the Med; in Greece, it’s ouzo; Italy has sambuca; in Turkey it’s raki. All are usually knocked back as a shot after a meal. Yet the ritual associated with pastis makes it stand out. This sweet aniseed spirit simultaneously…

So much more than a mere barbecue, the asado is a way of life in Argentina. It’s also a rite of passage: Leo Godoy (pictured) cooked his first aged 14 under his father’s tuition, and has been cooking them ever since. The preparation begins in the morning with the selection of the wood. The fire is then lit, the wood and coals are maintained and, finally, the meat is cooked. Empanadas, meanwhile, are a similarly beloved Argentinian culinary institution. With a name that translates as ‘wrapped in bread’, they’re traditionally filled with ground beef, chicken or ham and cheese. However, every region has its own take on them. In Córdoba province, sugar is sprinkled on top and a few raisins are added to the mixture to make empanadas cordobesas. Originally…

Smørrebrød The traditional Danish open-face sandwich is less a dish than a way of eating. Toppings are usually laid on dense rye bread, but fluffy white bread is used for white fish, prawns and smoked salmon. Popular toppings are leverpostej (liver pâté), with fried mushrooms and bacon; herring with lettuce, boiled egg and pickled onion; roast pork with sweet and sour cabbage; and smoked salmon topped with shrimps, dill and lemon. Stegt flæsk Roast pork with parsley sauce beat smørrebrød to the title of Denmark’s national dish back in 2014. It’s a classic ‘meat and spuds’ dish: pork belly roasted until the crackling becomes crispy, then served with boiled potatoes and a béchamel sauce containing chopped parsley. It’s on the menu in most Danish restaurants, and is a popular choice…

To learn about Japanese cuisine, one must look to the past. But one must also look to Kansai, for this is where the story starts. This land, stretching across the west of Japan’s main island of Honshu and encompassing 10 prefectures, used to be known as Miketsukuni, meaning land of royal provisions. For centuries it was the emperor’s breadbasket. Food here was so bountiful and so delicious it was fit not only for the royal family, but for the gods. It’s a reputation that continues today. In the fields, low-hanging sea mist provides the cover and warmth for delicate tea leaves and rice stalks to flourish. Rainfall filters through the mountains, collecting nutrients and minerals before flowing out to sea, feeding marine life and creating some of the best fishing…

Pullman One of the city’s oldest wine bars, with what might be the longest list, Pullman has stayed up to date with natural options by the glass, bottle or tasting flight. With bottles half price on Sundays, it’s the perfect place to taste great wines at low prices. The food menu is no afterthought, from the lemon confit olives to the excellent venison tartare. pullman-mtl.com Monopole Close to the Old Port, all-day cafe Monopole is the place to go for a glass of Austrian orange wine or exceptional Bandol rosé. Best of all, it can be enjoyed with lunch dishes such as pork rillettes, or with dinner, which might include the likes of smoked mackerel served with potatoes and cheddar. monopole.cafe Vinvinvin In the neighbourhood of La Petite-Patrie you’ll find…

This cold soup is traditionally made in summer using local tomatoes ripe with sweetness from the Alentejo sunshine. Unlike in Spanish gazpacho, the tomatoes in this dish are blended rather than crushed, giving it a smoother texture and a distinctive bright colour. Locally grown herbs and garlic add a fresh, aromatic flavour. SERVES: 5 TAKES: 10 MINS INGREDIENTS FOR THE SOUP: 750g ripe tomatoes, cut into chunks1 red pepper, deseeded and cut into chunks½ green pepper, deseeded and cut into chunks½ cucumber, roughly peeled and cut into chunks½ onion, cut into chunks4 garlic cloves, cut into chunks5 tbsp white wine vinegarat least 7 ice cubes5 tbsp olive oil TO GARNISH: oregano leavescroutonsolive oil METHOD 1 Tip all the soup ingredients, except the olive oil, into a blender. Blitz until the…

What was the inspiration behind The Arabesque Table? I wanted to capture the evolving and cross-cultural Arab table, and I realised that to understand this modern way of eating, one had to understand the culinary history of the Arab world. At its core, food is more closely tied to language and religion than arbitrary political boundaries. I wanted to use the history of our cuisine to demonstrate how food often transcends the boxes we put it in. Can you explain the idea behind the title? The book weaves recipes and stories to tell a tale of culinary evolution. I wanted a title that would convey this spirit and get across how intertwined the roots of cuisine across the world are. The word ‘arabesque’ is an ornamental design of intertwined flowing…

HENRY’S Chef Henry Scott offers an elegant, European-inspired menu, with seasonal mains including mallard, roast monkfish and lamb rump. henrysrestaurantbath.com MARLBOROUGH TAVERN One of the most beloved gastropubs in town, the Marlborough serves excellent food in relaxed, unpretentious surrounds. Pop in after admiring the Royal Crescent, just around the corner. marlborough-tavern.com THE CIRCUS You’ll need to book ahead for this small, family-run restaurant, serving homestyle dishes such as game bird crumble and Winslade cheese tart. thecircusrestaurant.co.uk…

PARTS UNKNOWN I’ve been revisiting a few episodes of this show in which the late, great Anthony Bourdain eats his way around the world, from Pittsburgh to Paraguay. NT STREET FOOD: LATIN AMERICA This series explores the mouth-watering dishes that define Latin America, whether it’s feijoadas from Brazil or picarones from Peru. FZ UGLY DELICIOUS Host David Chang combines travel, cooking and history on a quest to redefine deliciousness. He visits taco trucks, high-end restaurants, food science labs and more. MP…