AS THE SAHARAN SUN ROSE ON MY WAYLAID TEAM, one morning in September 2022, it seemed to burn with particular intensity. For nearly three weeks we’d been holed up in a mud-walled compound in the oasis town of Agadez, in central Niger, stalled because of officials’ insistence on assembling for us a large armed escort. Now, as dawn broke, we were finally ready to embark: Nearly a hundred people packed into 15 vehicles, a motley caravan of SUVs, pickups, and one large dump truck, all strapped with sand ladders and spare tires, heading out on an extraordinary desert dinosaur hunt—without question, the most ambitious of my career.
Among our number were Tuareg guides and drivers, a film crew, 64 armed guards, and my paleo dream team of 20 students and freshly…
