This isn’t a still life from 17th-century Europe. It’s fresh produce from four upscale markets in Manhattan. Eating locally and reducing carbon footprints may be in, but these fruits and vegetables made big trips to the Big Apple—in some cases covering nearly 9,000 miles. In fact, in the United States, produce imports have increased significantly since 1980. Amit Ratanshi, a seller at a Bronx distributor, says New York chefs and shoppers “want to know where their food is coming from.” That can mean a farm down the road, across the country, or—if it’s exotic goods—half a world away.
Behind the Moveable Feast
Big-city produce comes from near and far. Dartmouth geographer Susanne Freidberg says that’s nothing new. In the 19th century, before cold storage, New Yorkers got Christmas citrus from…