AT THE TABLE As our city grows, our lives have become increasingly enriched by the diversity of cultures and their cuisines. Indeed, Japanese food is having a moment: our experiences have broadened from the theatrical showmanship of hibachi grills of the ’80s as we’ve been introduced to art of the sushi bar, the ramen house, the izakaya (gastro-pub), and now, the kissaten.
Japanese kissatens are casual, often family-run cafes serving coffee, teas, an array of small bites, and simple meals. They are a bit retro in style and ambiance, providing an intimate, relaxing space for guests to hang out. It was the notion of this cozy, familial place, coupled with the comfort foods of her youth, that Chef Leina Horii tapped into when she and her husband, Chef Brian Lea…
