For many food lovers, fresh peaches are the pinnacle of perfection. In her cookbook, In Season, seasonal food evangelist Sarah Raven declares it a crime to cook a ripe peach. Emily Luchetti, executive pastry chef at Farallon in San Francisco, says she prefers uncooked peaches in her desserts, and when she does apply heat to the peach, it’s just for a moment. It’s not that peaches don’t stand up to heat well. They do. But yes, a perfectly ripe, juicy, raw peach is a thing of beauty.
Which is better: a Georgia peach, a Colorado peach or a Texas peach? That depends where you are. Deborah Madison, in her excellent seasonal cookbook Local Flavors, remarks that these “quintessential fruits of summer” should always be “tree-ripened and untraveled.”
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