LUKE DALE-ROBERTS IS NOT A NATURAL MODEL. He poses stiffly, smiles awkwardly and wonders what to do with his hands. He gets lost in what he’s doing, chopping an onion, whisking cream, and forgets he’s on camera. Then he looks up, remembers who we are, and asks, “Oh, do you want me to smile?”
Yeah, you’ve heard of him. He’s the guy behind the Test Kitchen, which was listed at 28th on the Diners Club World’s 50 Best Restaurants earlier this year. And he’s the reason so many foodies from all over everywhere now flock to what used to be the Mother City’s dingiest district.
With just forty-odd seats, an enormous chef’s worktable running the length of the space, everything designed to be as open-plan as possible, the Test Kitchen…