I was brought up in a vegetarian household – often vegan, as southern Indian food tends to be. Other than on pizza night, my mother rarely failed to put at least three different types of dish on the table – whether it was rice, spiced potatoes and aubergines, sambhar (a lentil and tamarind stew), carrots and beans in mustard seeds and a peppery tomato rasam, or home-made mushroom quiche, roasted vegetables and a Caprese salad. Given that she worked full-time as a GP, I have no idea how she managed, unless I’m blocking out the memory of a lot of potato waffles and buttery macaroni with grated Cheddar (still up there on my list of favourite dinners).
Food for dinner parties or birthdays was even better: home-made paneer cheese, blitzed…