Innholdsfortegnelse for January - February 2017 i Louisiana Cookin'

CARNIVAL IS THE MOST colorful and exciting time in Louisiana. From the glittering beads, to the decked-out floats, and the king cakes galore, this season distills some of the most wonderful feelings across the state. This year, in addition to picking up some of my favorite king cakes (Haydel’s, La Boulangerie, and Gracious, I’m looking at you), I plan on baking a few of my own. On page 40, you’ll find a super-versatile dough that you can stuff with your favorite fillings (or try our Cinnamon-Pecan, Chocolate, or Strawberries and Cream versions). Even though it is the time of year when we can (and should!) eat dessert first, the sad fact is that we cannot live on king cake alone. To help out with the gatherings and gettogethers that abound…

IT HAS ALWAYS been quite clear what Adam and Eve should not have eaten, but—besides forbidden fruit—there are few clues as to what they pulled together for subsequent family suppers. We do know that a little later down the road their descendants, somewhat constrained by dietary regimens outlined by Moses in the Tanakh, most certainly were not fixing gumbo, whatever other soups they may have been concocting. Indisputably, from the earliest times (that is, the time of fire) the two simplest food preparations were roasting and boiling. There is some anthropological evidence that Neanderthals shaped and cupped the hides of their hunted animals as vessels for cooking seasoned liquids. It was a practice that still found usage as late as the 16th century in rural Ireland, a place then, as…

SMOKED SAUSAGE KOLACHES MAKES 8 8 (2½-inch) pieces smoked sausage 1 (16-ounce) bag deli pizza dough ½ cup freshly grated Cheddar cheese 1 large egg 2 tablespoons water Creole mustard, to serve 1. Let pizza dough stand at room temperature for 20 minutes. 2. Preheat oven to 375°. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. 3. In a large skillet, cook sausage over medium heat until golden brown. Drain well. 4. Divide dough into 8 pieces. Roll into balls, and flatten into 4-inch disks. In the center of each disk, place 1 tablespoon cheese and 1 piece of sausage. Fold dough over cheese and sausage; roll into a log, and pinch seams to seal. Place kolaches seam side down 1 inch apart on prepared pan. In a small bowl,…

In Louisiana, we consider ourselves fortunate to have such a rich bounty of fresh seafood available to us from the fertile waters of the Gulf of Mexico. Of the many species that call our waters home, oysters are some of the most adored mollusks in the state due to their accessibility, as well as a unique flavor and texture. Gulf oysters taste different than those of Atlantic and Pacific origins. Whereas Atlantic oysters are often saltier and Pacific oysters are sweeter, Gulf oysters tend to have an earthy flavor and meaty texture, making them ideal for eating in a wide variety of ways. Whether shucked and served on the half shell atop a bed of ice, broiled to perfection with cheese, garlic, and butter, or fried and stuffed into a…

FRENCH QUARTER Sweet Bites Salon Restaurant by Sucré 622 Conti St. Pork and Rum, Perfected Cane and Table 1113 Decatur St. Totally Tiki Beachbum Berry’s Latitude 29 321 N Peters St. All-Hours Satisfaction Verti Marte Deli & Grocery 1201 Royal St. Creative Po’ Boys Killer Poboys 219 Dauphine St. CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT Best Biscuit Breakfast Willa Jean 611 O’Keefe Ave. Porky Perfection Cochon Butcher 930 Tchoupitoulas St. Wild ‘Wiches Part & Parcel 611 O’Keefe Ave. CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT (CONTINUED) Caribbean Flair Compère Lapin 535 Tchoupitoulas St. Fresh Local Flavor Balise 640 Carondelet St. MID-CITY Fried Po’ Boy Classics Parkway Bakery & Tavern 538 Hagan Ave. Best Burgers Revel Café & Bar 133 N. Carrollton Ave. Asian-Orleans MoPho 514 City Park Ave. Pure Comfort Liuzza’s Restaurant & Bar 3636 Bienville St.…

“THE BOOK TRIES TO TEACH PEOPLE NOT ONLY OUR COOKING, BUT WHAT MAKES US US, AND WHY WE ARE THE WAY WE ARE.” –KEVIN BELTON CHEF KEVIN BELTON learned early in life how fortunate he was to live in a city with a rich culinary heritage. Growing up in Uptown New Orleans, Kevin was raised in a family that placed importance on venturing out for the best fresh ingredients. Today, Kevin shares his love of the city’s cuisine with visitors from all over the world as an instructor at the New Orleans School of Cooking and as host of the cooking series New Orleans Cooking with Kevin Belton on WYES-TV (and some other public television stations nationwide). Now, Kevin is sharing some of his favorite recipes in Kevin Belton’s Big…

IT’S MARDI GRAS y’all! OK, well, maybe not yet, but as you know, here in Louisiana, as soon as we get New Year’s out of the way, it’s all about Mardi Gras. King cakes, fried chicken, red beans, parades, balls, costumes—I don’t even know how we manage to get to work for the next few weeks, but we are Carnival pros. For many of us, this is the time of year we are home the least, and much of that time out has to do with food, our favorite subject. So, let’s talk food! NEW AND DELICIOUS As usual, new restaurants seem to pop up overnight all over Louisiana. If the name Isaac Toups is familiar to you, it may be because you have had the pleasure of dining at…

YA-KA-MEIN IS ONE of New Orleans’ best-kept secrets. The beef noodle soup has been a staple among the city’s African-American community for as long as anyone can remember, but its origin is a mystery. Often called Old Sober for its restorative qualities, yaka-mein simply consists of chopped beef, noodles, green onions, hard-cooked egg, and broth made from a unique blend of spices. While it is typically made with beef, other proteins like pork or shrimp are also common. You won’t find it in many restaurants; rather, the comforting dish is more commonly sold as street food at second lines, festivals, or corner stores in neighborhoods like Central City, where Linda Green grew up. Known around New Orleans today as The Ya-Ka-Mein Lady, Linda uses a secret recipe that has been…

AVERY’S ON TULANE 2510 Tulane Ave. New Orleans • 504.821.4110 averysontulane.com BALISE 640 Carondelet St. New Orleans • 504.459.4449 balisenola.com DRAGO’S SEAFOOD RESTAURANT Multiple locations in Metairie, New Orleans, and Jackson, MS dragosrestaurant.com THE FRENCH PRESS 214 E. Vermilion St. Lafayette • 337.233.9449 thefrenchpresslafayette.com JOLIE PEARL OYSTER BAR 315 North Blvd. Baton Rouge • 225.615.7172 jolieoysterbar.com MIDDENDORF’S RESTAURANT 30160 US Hwy. 51 S. Akers • 985.386.6666 middendorfsrestaurant.com PÊCHE SEAFOOD GRILL 800 Magazine St. New Orleans • 504.522.1744 pecherestaurant.com PUJO STREET CAFÉ 901 Ryan St. Lake Charles • 337.439.2054 pujostreet.com…

“CONFIT IS SOMETHING THAT TAKES A LONG TIME, AND IT’S WORTH IT.”— CHEF ANTON SCHULTE Bistro Daisy • 5831 Magazine St. • New Orleans 504.899.6987 • bistrodaisy.com DUCK CONFIT IS a traditional French dish in which the meat is salted and cooked in its own fat at low temperatures over long periods of time. The technique, which originated as a method of preservation, produces an incredibly tender and moist result, making it one of our favorite ways to enjoy duck legs (as well as goose, chicken, lamb, or pork). Duck confit may seem like a daunting dish, but with a little patience and a few pro tips, it is worth the time and effort. We talked to 2005 Chef to Watch Anton Schulte of Bistro Daisy in Uptown New…

I had an opportunity to find out the juicy details of Shreveport’s Blue Southern Comfort Food & Ice Cream Parlor restaurant from the owner herself, Chef Carolyn Simmons: As if the name of your place were not enough to entice us, tell us about your very comfortable restaurant. We’re all about comfort food, but not old-fashioned comfort food. We offer a more modern take with fresh-ground burgers, and dishes with local ingredients—lots of them. We even make our own ice cream with locally produced dairy products, and our own pizza dough. Everything is made from scratch. We also make a great pot roast, and lots of smoked meats. For those who haven’t been here, what’s the atmosphere like? We have our own brick pizza oven, where customers can stand and…

ALONG THE NEWLY redeveloped O.C. Haley corridor in New Orleans’ Central City neighborhood, Chef Nick Martin is taking cooking to an elemental level at Primitivo, an open hearth cooking concept from chef-restaurateur Adolfo García and partners Jared Ralls and Ron Copeland. The restaurant, which opened in May 2015, was inspired by the team’s love of cooking over fire. “We get together on the weekends, and we light a fire,” Adolfo says. “We cook some protein and we cook some vegetables. We just love the fire. That’s how we enjoy our days off.” At Primitivo, every dish has a component that has been cooked on the hearth. “We try to take as many good ingredients as we can and touch them with fire in some way, shape, or form, whether that’s…

IN NEW ORLEANS, the ritual of eating red beans and rice on Monday has long been an important part of the city’s culture. In the days before electric washing machines, laundry was done by hand, and in New Orleans, laundry day was Monday. Red beans could be left to cook unattended for hours at a time, making it an ideal dish to prepare on wash day. Today, the tradition of eating red beans and rice on Monday is as prevalent as ever, and L.H. Hayward and Company, the manufacturer of Camellia Brand, is making sure New Orleanians have access to the best beans. Lucius H. Hayward founded the company in 1923 when he recognized a demand for dried beans among the community of Caribbean immigrants who had settled in the…

THE WINTER CITRUS bounty is one of the best things about living in the Bayou State. Not content to eat one or two varieties in one sitting, we want to eat as many as we can! This zesty salad, bedecked with sweet strawberries, is easily adaptable to whatever citrus you have on hand, and especially wonderful when blood oranges are available. ZESTY CITRUS SALAD MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS 3 clementines or tangerines, peeled and halved crosswise 2 grapefruits, peeled and sliced crosswise 2 navel oranges, peeled and sliced crosswise 1 Bartlett pear, cored and sliced 1 cup strawberries, hulled and sliced 2 tablespoons grapefruit juice 1 teaspoon lime zest 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice 3 teaspoons superfine sugar ¼ cup toasted sweetened flaked coconut 1. On a large platter,…