Innholdsfortegnelse for July - August 2016 i Louisiana Cookin'

THROUGHOUT THE MAKING of this Eat Local issue, I’ve been reflecting on the joys of living and eating in Louisiana. With long growing seasons, unparalleled access to the best fish in the Gulf, rice, salt, and even pecan oil, folks here have it much easier than most other places in the country when it comes to stocking their larder with superior local products. But in the Bayou State, eating locally isn’t just about the ingredients, it’s about the heart and soul of what we’re cooking. It’s about the time-honored methods that make Cajun and Creole dishes great. When we’re cooking up long-grain Crowley rice for an étouffée or shelling field peas to be long-cooked with a salty hunk of pork, we are celebrating our culinary birthright. Outside of our own…

NOW, THAT SHOULD KEEP YOU BUSY AND WELL FED UNTIL NEXT TIME. REMEMBER: BUY LOCAL, EAT OUT OFTEN, AND CLEAN YOUR PLATE. We chatted with Anthony Felan, executive chef at Wine Country Bistro in Shreveport. Anthony has been invested in the local sourcing movement for the past nine years: How has the farm-to-table movement affected your business? When Jason Brady opened Wine Country Bistro nine years ago, we were working with a lady down the street who grew tomatoes in her back yard. But now, we are working with farmers throughout the area, and our customers actually appreciate what we are doing here. They’re excited about knowing where their food actually comes from. It has worked so well for us that we use about 60 percent locally grown products now.…

photography by jim bathie IN AN OLD TEXACO gas station in Shreveport’s historic Broadmoor neighborhood, Chef Robert “Bozz” Baucom is creating classic New Orleans dishes in a laid-back atmosphere at Marilynn’s Place. The restaurant is named after the chef ’s mother, who instilled in her son a lifetime love of cooking. Bozz has taken that passion and channeled it into his wildly successful restaurant, which his mother was instrumental in helping him open. After graduating from culinary school and working as a chef for an exploration and adventure cruise line and then on movie sets, he decided to open his own restaurant. “My mom and I started looking for a hole-in-the-wall joint that I could call my own ” Bozz says. “We finally found a little neighborhood gas station that…

PICO DE GALLO MAKES ABOUT 4 CUPS 2½ cups diced tomato 1½ cups diced yellow onion 1 jalapeño, seeded and minced 1 green onion, finely chopped 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh cilantro ½ teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon garlic powder ¼ teaspoon ground black pepper 1. In a medium bowl, combine all ingredients. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes before serving. PINEAPPLE JICAMA SALSA MAKES ABOUT 4 CUPS 2 cups peeled and thinly sliced jicama ½ pineapple, peeled, cored, and diced (about 2 cups) ½ cup minced red onion, rinsed and drained 1 red bell pepper, seeded and diced 1 serrano pepper, seeded and minced 2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro ½ teaspoon kosher salt ¼ teaspoon ground black pepper Juice of 2 limes 1. In a medium bowl, combine all…

AS THE LOCAL sourcing movement has matured into the status quo for environmentally and socially conscious chefs, diners have gotten used to seeing heirloom ingredients and the names of farmers and farms dot their menus. It’s much less common these days to see chefs producing their own artisanal products and offering them for sale at other outlets. A few months ago, Commander’s Palace Executive Chef, Tory McPhail, released a series of such products, highlighting flavors from Louisiana and the Caribbean that he hopes will make it faster and easier for home cooks to enjoy healthful meals with friends and loved ones. Tory’s endeavor started with a trio of sauces that captured his love for tropical flavors: coconut, key lime, and curry; pineapple, ginger, and cayenne; and cilantro, lime, and sea…

FIRE UP THE grill and get ready to boogie. These super-fast shrimp kabobs combine just about everything we love about South Louisiana summertime: sweet shrimp, tart pineapple, and a rockin’ zydeco sauce made with Cajun seasoning and smoky cane syrup. You’ll want to make extra, cher, because they’ll disappear fast. ZYDECO SHRIMP KABOBS MAKES 4 SERVINGS 8 (12-inch) wooden skewers 24 large fresh shrimp, peeled and deveined 16 (1½-inch) cubes fresh pineapple 16 mini tricolor sweet peppers 1 teaspoon kosher salt ¼ cup cane syrup 1 teaspoon Cajun seasoning 1. Soak skewers in water for 30 minutes. 2. Thread shrimp, pineapple, and bell peppers on skewers. Sprinkle with salt. In a small bowl, combine cane syrup and Cajun seasoning. 3. Spray grill rack with nonflammable cooking spray. Preheat grill to…

AROUND THE GULF COAST, people look forward to firing up their barbecue pits for fresh local fish, shrimp, or chargrilled oysters. Like many, I happen to have a deep love affair with grilled seafood. There’s really nothing quite like it. The char and the smoke pair so well with the natural sweetness of seafood and saltiness of the sea. Last summer, on my very first episode of Food Network Star, we were challenged to create a signature dish for an outdoor party using only a gas grill and an induction burner. I opted for grilled shrimp served over a tasso corn maque choux. The flame-roasted shrimp packed just the right flavor to pair with the smokiness of the tasso, and it helped me win that round. Later in the competition,…

BY NOW THERE is almost no one who has not heard of absinthe or does not have an acquaintance who has tasted it. This was not at all so 25 years ago, when even moderately well-informed people on hearing mention of the liquor would roll their eyes and assure you it was highly addictive or would drive you crazy as the worms from wormwood slowly nibbled at your brain. In fact, it is merely a very high proof distillation that uses the essences of a number of herbs and flowers, including anise, fennel, and Artemisia absinthium, commonly called wormwood. The fable of its origin reaches into the 18th century, and is alternatively described as a secret therapy developed by plant-gathering maiden ladies in the Swiss hills around Neuchâtel, or as…

FRIED SHRIMP PO’ BOYS MAKES 4 SANDWICHES Vegetable oil, for frying 2 cups all-purpose flour 2 teaspoons kosher salt 2 teaspoons Creole seasoning 1 teaspoon ground black pepper 2 large eggs 1 tablespoon water 3 pounds large fresh shrimp, peeled and deveined Basic Rémoulade (recipe precedes) 4 (6- to 8-inch) loaves French bread, halved lengthwise 1 cup shredded iceberg lettuce 1 large beefsteak tomato, sliced 1. In a large Dutch oven, pour oil to a depth of 4 inches, and heat over medium heat until a deep-fry thermometer registers 350°. 2. In a medium bowl, combine flour, salt, Creole seasoning, and pepper. In a small bowl, whisk together eggs and 1 tablespoon water. In small batches, coat shrimp in egg mixture, and then dredge in flour mixture, coating completely. In…

TO SAY THAT New Orleanians are particular about their po’ boys would be a grave understatement. Each of the city’s residents has a go-to spot for their favorite crispy fried shrimp or messy roast beef po’ boy, and they’ll defend it to the end. Here are a few time-honored neighborhood standards that serve up the most pleasing sandwiches to regulars and visitors alike. Domilise’s Po-Boy & Bar has been an Uptown institution since 1918. When the doors open at 10 a.m., a line of hungry customers forms outside the one-room po’ boy shop. You can’t go wrong with their famous fried shrimp or fried oyster po’ boys, drizzled with ketchup and hot sauce and dressed with mayo, shredded lettuce, and pickles. In the historic Garden District, Mahony’s Po-Boy Shop has…

Certain restaurants hold a special place in the hearts of Louisianans. From white-tablecloth establishments to mom-and-pop joints and everything in between, Louisiana’s hometown treasures have withstood the test of time and continue to turn out cherished family recipes to throngs of locals and visitors year after year. Each of these restaurants has become a classic in its own right by staying true to its roots and carrying on the culinary traditions passed down from generation to generation. Stepping inside one of these spots transports diners to another time and place, where time stands still amid the ever-changing world outside. These beloved eateries remain consistent in the quality of their food and overall dining experience, and guests know what to expect when they walk through the door. From New Orleans to…

“WITH COCKTAILS FROM THE BEST BARKEEPS AND MIXOLOGISTS, THIS BOOK CELEBRATES MY PASSION FOR ENTERTAINING FAMILY AND FRIENDS WITH COUPE GLASSES.”–BRIAN HART HOFFMAN IF YOU’RE LOOKING to add a touch of class to your bar cart and expand your repertoire of crowd-pleasing cocktail recipes, look no further than The Coupe: Celebrating Craft Cocktails and Vintage Collections (Hoffman Media, 2016), in which Brian Hart Hoffman presents readers with a beautifully designed, comprehensive guide to the classic wide-rimmed glass. The Coupe begins with an enthralling history of the cocktail glass written by Patrick Dunne, proprietor of Lucullus in New Orleans. Recipes are categorized by their base, such as sparkling wine, vodka, gin, rum, tequila, and whiskey. The book includes cocktail recipes from acclaimed restaurants and bars all over the United States and…

Pecan smoked sugar anyone? Yes, please, and I don’t even need to know anything else. Sugar with a little hint of a smoky flavor? I’m in. Check out La Canne Sugar Products (lacannesugar.com) and if my first suggestion doesn’t catch your sweet tooth, consider their lavender or ginger sugar. Sweet. Fire up that flat screen and come hungry. Chef Kevin Belton is cooking New Orleans on WYESTV, the New Orleans public station. Of his ongoing series, New Orleans Cooking with Kevin Belton, the chef says, “Everybody says you make it look so easy. I tell them, no, it is easy. My mission is to get you to cook and then sit down with your family and friends and share that meal. People need to get back to the table.” Here,…

AS SUMMER REACHES its peak, okra flourishes in backyard gardens across the Bayou State. While okra pods could hardly be easier to batter and fry, we are big fans of quick pickling our okra bounty. The process maintains a delightful crunch and gives the pods a zippy, spicy bite that works as well in a salad as it does atop a homemade Bloody Mary. PICKLED OKRA SALAD MAKES 4 SERVINGS ¾ cup low-fat buttermilk ½ cup low-fat mayonnaise ¼ cup brine from Pickled Okra (recipe follows) 4 tablespoons chopped fresh dill, divided 2 teaspoons bacon drippings ¼ teaspoon kosher salt ¼ teaspoon ground black pepper 6 cups torn romaine lettuce 2 pounds fresh tomatoes, sliced (see note) 10 Pickled Okra pods, halved lengthwise (recipe follows) 2 slices bacon, cooked and…

WHEAT IS NOT NATIVE to Louisiana. Yet the French who founded the city in 1718 came with a taste for bread. In the earliest days of the colony, bread was expensive and scarce because wheat flour was expensive and hard to come by. There was much concern that loaves were not accurately weighed and adulterant flours (such as corn and rice) were mixed into wheat loaves. When the Spanish later ruled the area, they would fix the price of wheat by buying all that was available and reselling it to bakers. After the Louisiana Purchase, the government fixed the prices of the all-important loaves of bread to keep bakers from gouging the community. But in the 1830s bread in New Orleans began to change. German bakers began to open bakeshops…

SUGARCANE HAS A LONG history in Louisiana. The crop was first brought to the state by the Jesuits in 1751. In 1795, Étienne de Boré produced the first batch of granulated sugar in Louisiana. He sold the crop for $12,000, and sugar production took off. Louisiana became one of the United States’ top sugarcane producers, a distinction it holds to this day, second only to Florida. So it makes sense that in a state that claims to have invented the cocktail, a local distillery is taking advantage of Louisiana’s abundance of sugarcane to produce rum. Louisiana Spirits, maker of Bayou Rum, was founded in 2011 by brothers Trey and Tim Litel and Tim’s business partner, Skip Cortese. The idea was born in a conversation they had while duck hunting. Trey,…

UPTOWN DOMILISE’S PO-BOY & BAR 5240 Annunciation St. 504.899.9126 domilisespoboys.com CENTRAL CITY CAFÉ RECONCILE 1631 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd. 504.568.1157 cafereconcile.org FRENCH QUARTER KILLER POBOYS 219 Dauphine St. 504.462.2731 killerpoboys.com CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT MOTHER’S RESTAURANT 401 Poydras St. 504.523.9656 mothersrestaurant.net MID-CITY PARKWAY BAKERY &TAVERN 538 Hagan Ave. 504.482.3047 parkwaypoorboys.com LAKEVIEW R&O’S 216 Metairie-Hammond Hwy. Metairie 504.831.1248 GARDEN DISTRICT MAHONY’S PO-BOY SHOP 3454 Magazine St. • 504.899.3374 • mahonyspoboys.com…

FROM HIS DUAL kitchens at the legendary French Quarter classic Galatoire’s and Galatoire’s 33 Bar & Steak, Louisiana Cookin’ 2007 Chef to Watch Michael Sichel has an almost unparalleled ability to delight the palates of locals and visitors alike. At the former, he is rightly famous for his interpretations of classic New Orleans dishes (think Trout Almandine and Crabmeat Yvonne), and at the latter, Michael flexes his creativity with a modified steak-house menu viewed through a Crescent City lens. While it’s the steaks and chops, served with gratins and sauces galore, that bring many patrons through the door, Michael’s daily presentations of Gulf fish are astounding. He and his team of four chefs pride themselves on bringing in whole fish and butchering them in-house to the chefs’ specifications. This not…

IF YOU’RE NOT careful, watermelons can take over your summer garden. Reader Carmen Kanen Saville of Roanoke, Virginia, had this very same dilemma, and after she was done eating wedges, grilling, and juicing the red, ripe beauties, she turned to her ice cream freezer. This light and lovely sorbet captures the essence of summer. WATERMELON-LIME SORBET MAKES ABOUT 3 SERVINGS 1½ cups water ½ cup sugar 1 tablespoon light corn syrup Pinch of salt 3 large mint sprigs, crushed 3 cups cubed watermelon 2 teaspoons lime zest 3 tablespoons fresh lime juice Garnish: lime wedges, fresh mint 1. In a medium saucepan, bring 1½ cups water, sugar, corn syrup, and salt to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until sugar is dissolved. Remove from heat. Add mint, and let…

J ULY June 30-July 3 Essence Music Festival New Orleans essence.com/festival 2 Lebeau Zydeco Festival Lebeau | 337.351.3902 cajuntravel.com 2 Slidell Heritage Festival Slidell slidellheritagefest.org 4 Go 4th on the River New Orleans go4thontheriver.com 4 Celebration on the Cane Natchitoches | 318.352.2746 downtownnatchitoches.com 4 Let Freedom Ring Festival Thibodaux | 985.446.5237 visitlafourche.com 4 New Iberia Fourth of July Parade New Iberia iberiatravel.com 8-10 San Fermin in Nueva Orleans New Orleans | 337.344.9397 nolabulls.com 9-10 Christmas in July Sale Ponchatoula | 985.386.2536 ponchatoulachamber.com 15-16 Cajun Music & Food Festival Lake Charles | 337.436.9588 visitlakecharles.org/events-festivals 15-16 Natchitoches/NSU Folk Festival Natchitoches | 318.357.4332 louisianafolklife.nsula.edu 15-16 Swamp Pop Music Festival Gonzales | 225.769.9994 swamppopmusicfest.com 19-24 Tales of the Cocktail New Orleans | 504.948.0511 talesofthecocktail.com 22-23 Bayou BBQ Bash Morgan City | 337.828.5608 cajuncoast.com 29-30…

ONE OF THE best ways to beat the summer heat in New Orleans is by sipping on a cold cocktail during a leisurely Sunday brunch. Step into Araña Taqueria y Cantina on Magazine Street for a Mexican brunch with weekend bottomless drink specials, including margaritas that feature tequila from the restaurant’s impressive collection. This margarita balances sweet plum and hibiscus with spicy tequila to create a refreshing summertime libation. PLUM-HIBISCUS MARGARITA MAKES 1 SERVING Courtesy of Armand Gonzales Araña Taqueria y Cantina, New Orleans Kosher salt (optional) 1½ ounces white tequila* 1 ounce Plum-Hibiscus Agua Fresca (recipe follows) ¼ ounce orange liqueur* Splash sour mix Garnish: lemon slice, lime slice, dried hibiscus flowers 1. In a small bowl, place kosher salt. Wet the edge of a rocks glass, and dip…