Innholdsfortegnelse for September/October 2025 i Louisiana Cookin'

In the fall of 2015, the late Sybil Haydel Morial—widow of New Orleans Mayor Ernest Nathan “Dutch” Morial and one of the most graceful women I’ve ever met—called me at my office. “Zella,” she said, “I need your help to raise funds to finish the documentary Leah Chase: The Queen of Creole Cuisine by Bess Carrick.” For anyone who knew Mrs. Leah, assisting in any way was both an honor and a privilege. At the time, I was knee-deep in research, searching for the most sought-after Creole de couleur chef of 19th-century New Orleans: Nellie A. Murray. I was on a mission to tell her story. And with sincere excitement, I responded to Ms. Sybil’s request: “I have an idea.” That idea blossomed into a collaboration with influential New Orleans…

When my wife and I started dating, it became immediately clear to us how different our careers were. One morning, she sent me a photo of the alligator that had been following her around the shipyard where she’d been doing an environmental audit. I received this text message while drinking a glass of Champagne at Brennan’s in the French Quarter. The apparent contradiction of ancient eating machines lurking around every corner and the essence of luxury somehow seems natural in Louisiana. Rustic handmade foods and extravagant delicacies get equal billing at home and in restaurants (though I think peoples’ hearts go to the rustic homespun classics). In this harvest issue, we have just such a mix of flavors and stories to help you welcome the season. This time of year,…

COVER RECIPE Alligator Sauce Piquante MAKES ABOUT 10 SERVINGS (photo on page 21) ⅔ cup plus 2 teaspoons vegetable oil, divided1 pound andouille sausage, cut into ¾-inch pieces1 cup all-purpose flour2 small yellow onions, diced1 large green bell pepper, diced2 stalks celery, diced1 large jalapeño, seeded and diced1 (28-ounce) can diced tomatoes, drained3 tablespoons tomato paste4 cloves garlic, minced3 cups chicken or beef stock, divided2 dried bay leavesJuice of 3 lemons, dividedKosher salt, ground black pepper,cayenne pepper, Cajun seasoning, and hot sauce,to taste2 pounds fresh or frozen alligator meat, thawed if frozen, patted dry, and cut into 1-inch pieces1 cup sliced green onion (white parts)Hot cooked white rice, to serve10 hard-cooked eggs, peeled and halvedGarnish: chopped green onion (white parts only), and chopped parsley 1. In a large Dutch oven,…

When I lived in my own little tailgating bubble, it never really occurred to me that what I did—the parties I helped throw, the memories I made—were the envy of the sporting world. I tailgated because my cousin Travis taught me to tailgate as a freshman. I tailgated because it just felt right, getting to campus at dawn and setting up a party for friends, family, random acquaintances, and even our opponent’s fans. I didn’t realize back in the early 2000s, as I attended Louisiana State University in Baton Rouge, that our tailgate parties and the culture we brought to campus would go on to define my passions, my career, and my life. I always knew it represented something bigger. My party, Third Row Tailgaters, set up on the front…

Persimmon Fried Hand Pies MAKES 24 4 soft ripe fresh persimmons, peeled and roughly chopped½ cup firmly packed light brown sugar¼ cup unsalted butter, melted2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice½ teaspoon ground cinnamon½ teaspoon ground gingerPiecrust (recipe on opposite page)All-purpose flour, for dusting1 large egg1 tablespoon waterVegetable oil, for frying 1. In a large saucepan, bring persimmons and water to cover to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally. Reduce heat to medium-low, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until softened and falling apart, 5 to 8 minutes. Drain persimmons, and return to pan. Mash persimmons with a fork or potato masher. (You can use a blender or an immersion blender for a smoother filling, if desired.) Stir in brown sugar, melted butter, lemon juice, cinnamon, and ginger. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring frequently,…

APPETIZERS & BEVERAGES Persimmon Chutney 78 Smoked Redfish Dip 44 Seared Tuna with Spicy Mayo 44 Under the Sky 94 DESSERTS Mama Ford’s Ooey Gooey Cake 42 Persimmon-Cranberry Cobbler 78 Persimmon Fried Hand Pies 75 MAINS & SIDES Alligator Sauce Piquante 25 Apple and Collard Greens Coleslaw 67 Bacon-Braised Cabbage and Tomatoes 17 Bacon-Wrapped Quail 65 Cajun Gator Sausage 26 Chicken-Fried Venison Steak 70 Creamy Grits 26 Creamy Grits and Gator Grillades 25 Gator Burgers 25 Hunting Camp Gator Chili 27 Louisiana White Beans and Rice 87 Pot-Roasted Rabbit 65 Pulled Pork Sliders with Slaw and Blackberry BBQ Sauce 45 Roasted Persimmons and Squash 76 Roasted Pork Loin and Persimmons 76 Shrimp and Pineapple Skewers 45 Spanish-Style Grilled Octopus 30 Sorghum Roasted Winter Squash and Apples 70 Vietnamese Glazed Wings…

On a flight from New Orleans to Dallas, Texas, in 2014, I watched a movie called The Way. Martin Sheen played the father of an estranged son who died while walking through the Pyrenees Mountains. Named for St. James the Greater, the Way of St. James (a.k.a. Camino de Santiago) has been traversed by pilgrims for hundreds of years. Then and there, the Camino became part of my bucket list. But there were so many obstacles: time off from work, the distance I had to walk, finding overnight accommodations, transporting luggage. Like St. James’ scallop shell that leads pilgrims along each path, caminoways.com pointed in the right direction. In October 2018, I gathered three friends, hopped on a plane to Spain, and, hours later, was traveling along the northwestern Iberian…

Every year, a new class of culinary talent reshapes the way we eat, cook, and think about food. At the Chefs to Watch dinner, that vision comes to life—plated, poured, and proudly served by some of the most exciting up-and-coming chefs in the region. The people you’ll read about here are hopefully ones you’ll soon experience firsthand—filling dining rooms, leading kitchens, redefining local flavor in bold and personal ways, and so much more. This year’s honorees represent a new generation leading the culinary charge with creativity and purpose. Their food tells stories of heritage and home, global techniques and local ingredients, grit and grace. From modern Gulf Coast cuisine to deeply personal takes on soul food and sustainable efforts, each dish goes beyond a chef’s skill, encapsulating their journey and…

Houma-Thibodaux Kajun Kidd Burgers & Wings | thekajunkidd.com Cardell Lawrence Smith, chef and owner of Kajun Kidd Burgers & Wings, originally hails from St. John the Baptist Parish but is now a proud Lafourche Parish resident. And locals in the Houma-Thibodaux area are certainly pleased with the punch of flavor and Cajun flair he has brought to the community with his restaurant, which is just down the street from Nicholls State University. If the finger-lickin’ wings, creatively named burgers, and Crawfish Mac & Cheese aren’t indulgent enough for you, the Cinnamon Toast Crunch Beignets will tip you over the edge. Hammond Cate Street Seafood Station | catestreet308.com In 2003, the Wong family (formerly of Hammond’s Trey Yuen) purchased the former Hammond Freight Station to open Cate Street Seafood Station in…

Growing up in North Carolina, I had endless opportunities to explore the beauty of nature. Whether it was the mist-covered mountains of the Blue Ridge Parkway or the sprawling coastline of the Outer Banks, the chances for experiencing the outdoors were endless. Thankfully, my wife and I share a love of exploration, and we spent many weekends on camping trips throughout the state, with grand dreams of sleeping under the stars and among the trees. Unfortunately, the love that we had for nature was not reciprocated by nature itself. Whether it was poor planning, failed equipment, or sheer bad luck, we have had, quite frankly, an absurd number of camping trips gone wrong. However, with youthful optimism, we continued to deceive ourselves into thinking that we were, indeed, “camping people,”…

Since 2019, Kat Godsey has worked as the assistant director at the Brimstone Historical Society, which helps bring art exhibits to life and handles programming at the Henning Cultural Center in Sulphur—but that is just one of the many roles she plays in her local community. In 2021, she was the Mayor’s Art Awards Artist of the Year along with her counterpart, Ashley Royer. She is a cosplay coordinator for CYPHACON in Lake Charles, and her costume designs would be at home on the set of any Hollywood movie. “I have a deep need to see people happy and in their creative element. When I am creating, I have noticed that it has an effect on others and inspires them to create. Similarly, all of my artistic inspiration comes from…