Innholdsfortegnelse for May/June 2025 i Louisiana Cookin'

RANDY K. SCHMIDT is a New Orleans native who learned photography at a young age from his grandfather and has grown his craft over the years to include clients around the country for editorial, restaurant, and event photography. Randy is a regular contributor to Louisiana Cookin’ and has also worked with Visit Mississippi, Taste of the South, ReGrained, and more. CHEF JOHN D. FOLSE is the namesake of the culinary institute at Nicholls State University in Thibodaux. Born in St. James Parish, he learned early that the secrets of Cajun cooking lay in the unique ingredients of Louisiana’s swamp floor pantry. He has seasoned these raw ingredients with his passion for Louisiana culture and cuisine, and from his cast-iron pots emerged Chef John Folse & Company. In 2012, he joined…

There are many varieties of summer squash that thrive in the Louisiana soil. The most common are probably yellow crookneck and zucchini, both used in this recipe. But if you can get your hands on the harder-to-find pattypan or globe squash, feel free to use them. Summer Squash Pasta MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS 1 (16-ounce) box rigatoni pasta2 medium zucchini2 medium yellow squash1½ teaspoons kosher salt, divided, plus more to taste1 (4-ounce) package goat cheese, room temperature½ cup unsalted butter2 tablespoons olive oil2 cloves garlic, minced1 pound extra-large fresh shrimp, peeled and deveined (tails left on)2 teaspoons lemon zest1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice⅓ cup pine nuts, toasted¼ cup chopped fresh basil½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1. Cook pasta according to package directions in salted water; reserve 1 cup…

My father, Donny, is a retired pipeline welder from Taylor, Arkansas, who moves and speaks so lethargically that his friends have dubbed him “Turtle.” In his retirement years, Turtle has developed an all-consuming interest in sausage-making, a topic that he will discuss in depth and at length with little to no encouragement. He spends several hours each day watching YouTube videos about sausage-making, grinding meat, and stuffing sausage links in his garage kitchen. He has become particularly obsessed with the craft of making boudin, which he attempts to produce again and again, like Sisyphus rolling a boudin ball up the hill in Tartarus. “It’s just so many things about boudin that get to me, that I can’t understand,” he told me recently. “Boudin should be the simplest thing in the…

“It’s a pretty versatile recipe whether you’re stuffing it into a casing or making it into a patty and serving it with a biscuit or if you’re doing what I’m doing and making it into a boudin ball stuffed with cheese. It works great as an entrée, breakfast, an hors d’oeuvre, as an appetizer while you’re tailgating, for snacks when you’re hunting, and so on. It’s just a great little thing.”—JEAN-PAUL BOURGEOIS Chef Jean-Paul’s Pepper Jack-Stuffed Boudin Balls MAKES ABOUT 15 SERVINGS (photo on page 50) 2 pounds pork shoulder, cubed2 cups chicken stock5 dried bay leaves, divided1 large yellow onion, quartered1 carrot, trimmed and chopped2 stalks celery, cut into large chunks2½ cups water5 tablespoons vegetable oil, dividedPinch salt, plus more to taste2 cups long-grain white rice½ pound chicken liversGround…

Preserved Roasted Vegetable Salsa MAKE 3 QUARTS 4 medium zucchini, cut into 1-inch pieces2 yellow squash, cut into 1-inch pieces1 medium red bell pepper, cut into 1-inch pieces1 medium red onion, cut into 1-inch pieces6 large tomatoes, cut into 1-inch pieces3 cups white wine vinegar¼ cup pickling salt3 teaspoons black peppercorns3 teaspoons dried mustard seed1½ teaspoons dried fennel seeds3 sprigs oreganoArtisan crackers and Brie cheese, to serve 1. Preheat oven to 450°. 2. On a rimmed baking sheet, place zucchini, squash, bell pepper, and onion in a single layer. 3. Bake until browned, 25 to 30 minutes, tossing halfway through baking. Spoon into a bowl. Leave oven on. 4. On same pan, place tomatoes. 5. Bake until browned and beginning to fall apart, about 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Spoon into bowl with zucchini mixture.…

Let’s Go Everywhere Whether it’s being a tourist in your hometown or packing up and trekking across the state, this time of year is perfect for exploration. When I moved to New Orleans, that city was my only real point of reference in the Bayou State. In the time that’s passed, I can’t tell you how much of a joy it’s been journeying to as many places as possible. From the biggest cities to the most out-of-the-way parks and byways, Louisiana has seemingly endless opportunities for growth and fun. It feels like an eternity ago when we were brainstorming the contents of this issue, but the spirited discussion we had about the issue’s theme is still fresh in my mind. After much back-and-forth, we opted for a dual theme that…

“If you find yourself in Louisiana this time of year, consider taking a trip down to the big toe of the state and experience the terroir of this region through two of Louisiana’s most popular food staples.”—JEAN-PAUL BOURGEOIS May and June in Louisiana typically kick off a season of two of Louisiana’s most beloved ingredients to cook with: Creole tomatoes grown in the rich alluvial soil of the earth and red snapper from the stunning waters of the Gulf. That said, these seasons are determined by Mother Nature and federal regulations, so in the case of red snapper, do your homework and make sure you are up-to-date with state and federal laws before you hit the water. In today’s Louisiana vernacular, Creole tomatoes can be considered to be any vine-ripened…

Grouper with Lemon Tomato Sauce MAKES 4 SERVINGS 4 (6-ounce) grouper fillets2 teaspoons Creole seasoning3 tablespoons olive oil, divided2 cups assorted cherry or grape tomatoes, halved1 tablespoon sliced green onion3 cloves garlic, minced¼ cup dry white wine¼ cup chicken broth2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley2 tablespoons cold unsalted butterLemon wedges and roasted potatoes, to serveGarnish: chopped fresh parsley, sliced green onion, crushed red pepper, Creole seasoning 1. Pat fish dry. Sprinkle Creole seasoning all over fish. 2. In a large nonstick skillet, heat 2 tablespoons oil over medium heat. Add fish, and cook until fish flakes with a fork, 5 to 6 minutes per side. Remove from skillet. 3. In same skillet, heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil over medium heat. Add tomatoes, green onion, and garlic, and cook, stirring…

Before summer settles in in earnest, treat yourself to the trip of a lifetime down southwest Louisiana’s breathtaking Creole Nature Trail. The rambling 180-mile scenic byway weaves its way through wetlands and preserves as it meanders toward the Gulf. Along the way, you’ll have the opportunity to see dozens of local and migrating species of wildlife (from alligators to spoonbills), sample Cajun cuisine from mom-and-pop shops, and amble down beautiful beaches (or throw a line into the surf and see if you can catch your supper). Being such a short drive from New Orleans, Baton Rouge, and Houston, Texas, the Creole Nature Trail is an easy addition to any spring or summer itinerary. Pack a cooler, smear on the sunblock, and grab some bug spray, because you’ll be off on…

Crabby Jack’s Metairie crabbyjacksnola.com There aren’t many things that say “Louisiana” quite like an overstuffed fried shrimp po’ boy, and Crabby Jack’s (named for its founder, Chef Jacques Leonardi of New Orleans’ Jacques Imo’s) serves one of the best. While you’re there, try the fried chicken or Slow Roasted Duck Po’ Boy. Grapevine Café Donaldsonville grapevine.cafe Not far from the Sunshine Bridge in historic Donaldsonville, the Grapevine Café is known for its thoughtful renditions on Cajun, Creole, and African cuisine. Open for lunch and dinner (reservations highly recommended), you’ll want to try the Crabmeat Stuffed Mushrooms and the Spicy Pecan Shrimp. Seither’s Seafood Harahan facebook.com/seithers.seafood Tucked away in Harahan, Seither’s Seafood has made a name for itself with boiled crawfish, shrimp, and crab. The menu offers some memorable original items,…

BEVERAGES AND APPETIZERS Chef Jean-Paul’s Pepper Jack-Stuffed Boudin Balls 52 Classic Meat Pies 58 Ice and Fire 93 Red Snapper and Shrimp Summer Ceviche 23 Rosé Revival 89 BREADS AND DOUGHS Classic Piecrust 95 Meat Pie Dough 58 MAINS BBQ Shrimp with Hatch Green Chile Grits 54 Blackened Snapper Fish Tacos 25 Chilled Pea-Bean Salad with Snapper 72 Classic Ratatouille 41 Creole Tomato Basil Pie 28 Creole Turtle Soup 53 Field Pea Succotash with Blackened Shrimp 68 Fried Shrimp Platter 85 Grilled Steak with Tomato-Pineapple Salsa 42 Grouper with Lemon Tomato Sauce 37 Individual Tomato Tarts 42 Napoleon House Muffuletta 56 Purple Hull Peas and Okra with Smoked Turkey 72 Salt-Crusted Fish with Olive Salsa 23 Speckled Butter Bean Stew with Tasso 69 Summer Squash Pasta 17 SAUCES, SEASONINGS, AND CONDIMENTS…

Noni’s Kitchen Pepper Jelly noniskitchenllc.com Located in Lafayette, what started as a small operation has blossomed into a growing empire where jellies reign supreme and of the highest quality. We simply can’t get enough of Noni’s pepper jelly. If we were to rate this jelly on a “how hot is it?” scale, it would fall right in the middle for the perfect amount of peppery kick to go with every spoonful. Use it in a variety of ways and try it out with your next meal and we’re sure you’ll be amazed at the taste and passion that goes into every jar. Louisiana Peach Festival RUSTON | lapeachfest.com The 75th annual Louisiana Peach Festival is finally here, and we’re more than ready to celebrate one of our favorite fruits. The…

There are French restaurants and then there are French restaurants Some Francophiles prefer white-tablecloth, fancy palaces of Gallic flavor—think Julia Child’s favorite, Chez Georges, a Parisian institution since 1926. Then there are the more casual family-style bistros that dish French fare in a relaxed setting. Chez Jacqueline is in that last number. To a first-timer, the restaurant is a surprising find in downtown Breaux Bridge, despite being open since 2003. This kitchen is Chef Jacqueline Salser’s domain, the setting a result of a globetrotting life of hospitality. Classically trained for two years at Le Cordon Bleu in Paris, Jacqueline was born into a restaurant family in Saint Germain-en-laye, France, about 15 miles outside of the capital city. Her parents had a restaurant called L’Auberge du Cèdre in the country town…

Peas and Cornbread Layered Salad MAKES ABOUT 8 SERVINGS 1½ cups mayonnaise*1½ cups sour cream1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar¼ cup chopped fresh dill2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives1¼ teaspoons kosher salt, divided½ teaspoon ground black pepper1 clove garlic, grated3 cups fresh black-eyed peas4 cups crumbled cornbread2 cups halved cherry tomatoes2 cups chopped seedless cucumber2 cups shredded sharp Cheddar cheeseGarnish: fresh dill, sliced fresh chives, chopped cooked bacon 1. In a small bowl, whisk together mayonnaise, sour cream, vinegar, dill, chopped chives, ½ teaspoon salt, pepper, and garlic. Refrigerate until ready to use. 2. In a medium saucepan, bring peas, ½ teaspoon salt, and water to cover by 1 inch to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to medium-low; simmer, stirring occasionally, until peas are tender but hold their shape, 30…

Patience is a virtue when it comes to the fine distilled spirits from Left Bank. Its start begins with a unique way of producing a new brand of American bourbon whiskey: by sending a cargo boat down the river instead of zooming along the interstate from Kentucky to Louisiana. Invoking the early days of the US, the distillery’s distinctive transportation method, which involves barrels filled with whiskey traveling down the Mississippi River on a cargo ship, hearkens to a simpler time of days of yore and strengthens the ties between the Bluegrass State and the Bayou State. Owners Josh Easton and Ken Hagan, who met in college at the University of Louisville in Kentucky, decided to expand their friendship into an impressive business venture that would soon become Left Bank…

“I always tell people that I’m from ‘upstate’ Louisiana to make it sound fancy.” Fresh off the road from a US tour opening for the popular British singer Fink, Maggie is settling into a new apartment in New Orleans’ Garden District and putting the final touches on her fourth full-length album, Upstate. New Orleans has long since felt like home, but making the new record has her thinking about the town where she grew up. “I wasn’t a full-fledged musician yet,” she said of her early days performing at Shreveport bars. FINDING HER GROOVE Personally and professionally, Maggie flourished in the New Orleans music scene. Live collaborations with artists like Galactic and The Revivalists fed her reputation as a showstopping vocalist. These days, she’s interested in collaborating with other women…