Innholdsfortegnelse for January/February 2025 i Louisiana Cookin'

RANDY K. SCHMIDT is a New Orleans-born and -raised photographer who learned photography from his grandfather at a young age and has grown his craft over the years to include clients around the country for editorial, restaurant, and event photography. Randy is a regular contributor to Louisiana Cookin’ and has also worked with Visit Mississippi, Taste of the South, ReGrained, and more. MARCELLE BIENVENU is a cookbook author and food writer who has been preparing Cajun and Creole dishes since the 1960s. Marcelle has written on Creole/Cajun cooking for the Times-Picayune and Time-Life Books, and she has been featured in many national publications over the years. She is also the author of three books: Who’s Your Mama, Are You Catholic, and Can You Make a Roux?, Who’s Your Mama, and…

Not everyone is cut out for life on the bayou. The sweltering summers might have cast some outward, but to the many who still call it home, they wouldn’t have it any other way. Melissa Martin is one of those people. You’ve probably heard of Melissa because of her extremely successful restaurant, Mosquito Supper Club. (And if you haven’t eaten there, what are you waiting for?) It’s a must-stop when in New Orleans, and it’s symbolic of many of the things Melissa stands for: community, cooking with hyper-local ingredients, and, through these ingredients, supporting purveyors who help define the cuisine she grew up eating. The restaurant played a leading role, deservedly so, in the title of her first cookbook, Mosquito Supper Club: Cajun Recipes from a Disappearing Bayou. But her…

Rice and Beans with Andouille Sausage MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS 1 cup dried red kidney beans*2 tablespoons unsalted butter1 tablespoon olive oil1 pound andouille sausage, cut crosswise ½ inch thick1 cup chopped fennel (about 1 small bulb)½ cup diced yellow onion½ cup diced celery½ cup diced green bell pepper½ cup diced red bell pepper4 cloves garlic, minced4 cups low-sodium chicken broth2 tablespoons fresh thyme leaves1 teaspoon Cajun seasoning*½ teaspoon kosher salt1 cup long-grain rice¼ cup chopped green onion2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsleyGarnish: chopped green onion, fresh thyme leaves 1. In a large Dutch oven, combine beans and water to cover by 2 inches. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat; cook for 2 minutes. Cover, remove from heat, and let stand for 1 hour. Drain. Pour beans into a large…

Sweet Joy Bakery Pineville sweetjoybakery.com @sweetjoybakery Since 2016, the Alexandria-Pineville area has flocked to Sweet Joy Bakery for both its classic king cakes and its fun interpretations on the theme. The bakery offers 18 flavors of king cake (including wedding cake cream cheese- and Nutella-filled options) as well as king cake-inspired cinnamon rolls and king cake bites. Champagne’s Marché Leonville champagnesmarche.com @champagnesmarche As the Bayou Teche winds its way to the Atchafalaya, it passes Champagne’s Marché. This local grocery store has an impressive king cake offering. With 15 varieties, from plain to filled versions that include amaretto-pecan, blueberry-cream cheese, and pecan praline, it’s easy to see how Champagne’s became a local favorite. Acadian Slice Pies Lafayette acadianslicepies.com @acadian_slice Korey Champagne serves King Cake Galettes with a creamy cinnamon and pecan…

While most of the country is slowing down and making resolutions, we have an extra-long Carnival season to keep the good times rolling. In this issue, we’re kicking off a new focus for Louisiana Cookin’. Fear not—you’ll still have lots of terrific classic and modern recipes to look forward to, but in addition to that, you’ll find the pages filled with more stories and photographs of Louisiana life. Carnival and the run-up to Mardi Gras Day inevitably conjure pictures of king cakes, big float parades, and the ever-present thrum of a big bass drum. That is how Carnival plays out for many people across the Bayou State, but that’s only one piece of the overall picture. For this issue, we had locals and experts explore some of the other ways…

Greens closely related to lettuces, chicories are a cool-weather crop and thus thrive from late fall to early spring. Hardy and crunchy endive, radicchio, and escarole all fall into the chicory family and tend to have an earthy and slightly bitter taste when eaten on their own, but when tossed in our Warm Cane Syrup-Coffee Vinaigrette and paired with roasted sweet potatoes, they come to life in a harmonious way. Grilled Chicory Salad with Warm Cane Syrup-Coffee Vinaigrette MAKES 6 SERVINGS 2 cups 1-inch-cubed peeled sweet potato (about 1 medium potato)6 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided1½ teaspoons Creole seasoning*, divided¾ cup chopped pecans*1 large head radicchio, quartered2 heads Belgian endive, halved½ small head escarole (about ¾ pound)¼ teaspoon kosher salt2 oranges, peeled and sectioned1 (4-ounce) container crumbled goat cheeseWarm Cane Syrup-Coffee…

THE COURIR CELEBRATING A LIVING CULTURE IN ACADIANA STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY JO VIDRINE There are stories of Mardi Gras in Acadiana, where rural Mardi Gras traditions hold strong, beyond what is seen in New Orleans. These are stories of costumed revelers riding horseback through the fields and byways of Cajun and Creole country. These are stories of music that makes people move unexpectedly, bounties of cold cheap beer, and memories that last forever. These are stories of traditions that bring communities together to celebrate and observe real, living culture. Considering Lafayette as a geographical hub, some moderate planning can have you within inches of traditional Mardi Gras celebrations. A 45-minute drive in any direction from Lafayette on the days leading up to Fat Tuesday will have you headed toward…

Bourbon Milk Punch MAKES 8 SERVINGS (photo on page 68) 1¾ cups half-and-half¾ to 1 cup bourbon½ cup simple syrup or maple syrup2 teaspoons vanilla extractGarnish: freshly grated nutmeg 1. In a large pitcher, combine half-and-half, bourbon, syrup, and vanilla. Refrigerate until chilled, or pour servings into a cocktail shaker filled with ice, shake until chilled, and strain into glasses. When ready to serve, garnish servings with nutmeg, if desired. Pickled Shrimp MAKES ABOUT 8 SERVINGS (photo on page 66) 6 cups water2 pounds extra-large fresh shrimp, peeled and deveined (tails left on)4 large cloves garlic, halved4 (¼-inch-thick) slices fresh ginger4 large sprigs fresh thyme4 fresh bay leaves1 to 2 hot Fresno chile peppers, sliced and seeded1 lemon, sliced1½ cups thinly sliced red onion⅔ cup olive oil⅓ cup distilled white…

Bayou Terrebonne Distillery serves up a rich and storied past with its finely made spirits. This family-owned operation has quite the backstory to tell of how they got where they are today. Inspired by Lillie Lirette, the town’s first Mardi Gras queen and a moonshiner during prohibition who outsmarted the law with her wit and cunning nature, owners Noah Lirette, Nick Hebert, and Rodney Lirette carry on the tradition of her spirit through Bayou Terrebonne Distillery. By all accounts, Lillie’s moonshine was so good that even the sheriff turned a blind eye to her operation, and through her kanai, a Cajun French term for “cunning,” she was always one step ahead of those who could bring her down. Choosing Lillie as inspiration behind the business venture came easy, since she…

RECIPE INDEX APPETIZERS Butter-Roasted Oysters 58 Cajun Comeback Sauce Crawfish Dip 72 Creole Handshake Steak Bites with Spicy Blue Cheese Cream Sauce 31 Deer Sausage Boulettes 71 Oyster Cakes with Spicy Mayo 54 Pickled Shrimp 71 Raw Oysters with Chile-Lime Mignonette Sauce 54 BREADS AND DOUGHS Breakfast Ring 21 Cornmeal Biscuits with Oyster Gravy 55 Light-As-A-Cloud Biscuits 80 Maple Pecan King Cake Monkey Bread 85 Smoked Cheddar Corn Muffins 71 DRINKS & DESSERTS Bloody Mary 80 Bourbon Milk Punch 71 Hey, Neighbor 93 Strawberries Romanoff 81 MAIN DISHES Beans and Rice with Andouille Sausage 61 Coot Gumbo with Junior’s Potato Salad 29 Crawfish Rolls 20 Fried Oyster Loaf 58 Grits and Grillades 77 Homemade Pasta 63 Oyster Rockefeller Soup 80 Oyster Soup 27 Rosemary Roasted Chicken and Vegetables 64 Shrimp…

PRESENTED BY CAMELLIA BRAND Étoile NEW ORLEANS etoileorleans.com Étoile, which is French for “star,” is a farm-to-table fine-dining restaurant located on Magazine Street in New Orleans’ Garden District. It has an exquisite tasting menu that emphasizes regional farms and food craft artisans, accented with French cooking techniques. Led by Chef Chris Dupont, this establishment unites Chris’ roots in New Orleans with his experience cultivating his slow food style, cooking with the seasons, and planting and harvesting from his time working in Alabama. This joyous homecoming has long been awaited and is sure to become a standout in the Crescent City. Louisiana Fish Fry Etouffée Base louisianafishfry.com For an effortless étouffée, you must try Louisiana Fish Fry Etouffée Base. Add your choice of crawfish, shrimp, or chicken and smell the amazing aroma…

“Make sure you’re getting your oysters from a really good fishmonger or trusted source where you know they’ve been freshly shucked.”—JEAN-PAUL BOURGEOIS HUNTING SEASON IS WINDING DOWN, but redfish continue to find refuge in the shallows of the saltwater marshes spanning Louisiana’s coastline. By now, you should be well into making hearty duck gumbos and shucking salty, meaty oysters while knocking back a cold beer or two. The hunting and fishing seasons seem to blend effortlessly with a different kind of season on the horizon. As quickly as Christmas positions itself in our rearview, New Year’s comes and goes just as fast. For most people, this time of year represents clean slates, reflection, and resolutions. For Louisianians, the passing of New Year’s Day is met with a short hiatus of…

For Grand Isle native Albert “Buzzy” Besson, the love for all things oysters likely started with his grandfather Charlie Chaisson, who was a lifelong Barataria oysterman in Grand Isle. Many years later, Barataria Beauties, an oyster farm, was created from 50,000 triploid oyster seedlings purchased from the LSU AgCenter that were then strategically farmed in a section of the Barataria Bay, which Buzzy believes is the best habitat for his “boutique” Louisiana oysters. Buzzy and I connected over a long call and chopped it up around the business of oysters, Louisiana seafood, and the importance of connecting our state with new generations of passionate oyster eaters. I asked Buzzy about how his grandfather would harvest oysters compared to how he currently farms oysters, and he had a lot to say.…

The Carnival season of my childhood in the late 1940s and early 1950s was rather lackluster. In my small but historic town of St. Martinville, we didn’t have king cakes or parades. There was a ball sponsored by the local Rotary Club, but, of course, it was for adults only. Some adventuresome youngsters—my siblings and I were not in that group—were allowed to clothespin playing cards to their bicycle spokes to create a slapping noise as they cruised around the downtown area. These kids on their bikes, armed with bars of soap, marked up the showcase windows of the local general stores, banks, and barbershops. (I remember witnessing store owners on Ash Wednesday washing their windows to get rid of the mess and probably cursing silently.) At the time, some…

As a transplant to New Orleans, I get asked a lot by friends back in North Carolina why I moved to this city full of what can only be described as chaos. Between the threats of hurricanes, crime, failing infrastructure, and the day-to-day turmoil that happens here, it is an understandable question. The easy answer is I was born here (and lived here for the first five years of my life), or I love the festivities throughout the year, or even the locals’ quirkiness. These are all true and make up parts of the whole, but my real root answer lies much closer to home. New Orleans, this beautifully flawed city, practically forces you to form some sort of close-knit community to thrive. The day your water line breaks or…

“New Orleans is a regenerative space for me. I’m constantly feeding off the energy of the city and its people.” Walking through BMike’s StudioBE is a startling experience. His work astonishes, in size, scope, heft, point of view. Throughout the soaring space, bold portraits of thought leaders, agitators, artists, and everyday people spark conversation. He founded the studio in 2016 to showcase his solo work but is now excited to evolve the space to embrace the visions of many artists with whom he works. For his public art, New Orleans offers a backdrop for his provocative dialogue at the intersection of art and resistance. About This 39-year-old Algiers native could hitch his star to art scenes in Los Angeles, New York City, or Berlin, Germany. But for this local son,…