Innholdsfortegnelse for September/October 2024 i Louisiana Cookin'

Autumn in the Bayou State This issue’s biggest headline is the announcement of our annual slate of Chefs to Watch, along with the seasonal shift from beastly summer to the heartier fare I’ve been craving since last winter. The Chefs to Watch program began in 2002, and through the years, we’ve seen it grow and change along with the direction of Louisiana cuisine. I’ve never thought about it as pronouncing the “best” chefs in the state, because that would be impossible, considering the sheer number of restaurants and food operations (from boudin stands to five-star restaurants) along with all the techniques and traditions that are so ingrained in Louisiana’s culinary past and present. I see Chefs to Watch as offering a filter through which to see a small group of…

With a career rooted deeply in Louisiana’s rich culinary heritage, Eric Cook has carved a niche for himself as a chef, owner of New Orleans’ Gris-Gris and Saint John, and now, author of his first cookbook, Modern Creole. The newly released compilation of south Louisiana recipes not only celebrates the flavors of the place he’s always called home but also serves as a testament to his dedication to preserving and evolving Creole cuisine. Born and raised in Arabi, Eric’s foray into the world of cooking began early, influenced by the culinary traditions passed down through generations of his large family. His family’s prowess in the kitchen instilled in him a deep appreciation for local produce, seafood, and wild game and, in turn, the art of transforming them into unforgettable dishes.…

Grilled Gator Tails with Zippy Tartar Sauce MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS 1½ pounds alligator tail meat, cut into 1-inch pieces1 tablespoon Creole seasoning1 tablespoon olive oil1 teaspoon smoked paprikaWooden skewers, soaked in water for 30 minutesZippy Tartar Sauce (recipe follows)Garnish: chopped fresh parsley, sliced green onion 1. In a large bowl, toss together alligator, Creole seasoning, oil, and paprika. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes. 2. Preheat a grill to medium-high heat (350° to 400°), or heat a cast-iron grill pan over medium-high heat. 3. Thread alligator onto skewers. 4. Grill, turning occasionally, until browned and an instant-read thermometer inserted in center registers 165°, 12 to 15 minutes. Serve with Zippy Tartar Sauce. Garnish with parsley and green onion, if desired. Zippy Tartar Sauce MAKES 1 CUP…

After his time in the army, Stephen Bateman—founder of Down the River Forge—found himself at a crossroads. His fascination with knives, an essential tool he had always carried, spurred his initial foray into knife-making while he attended the University of Texas at San Antonio. The spark was ignited when he returned home to Louisiana for the holidays in 2018, determined to forge his first knife. Armed with rudimentary tools and a chiminea filled with coal, he crafted a crude knife from a scavenged railroad spike. This solidified his passion and set him on a path of relentless improvement. In naming his business, Stephen drew inspiration from his favorite retreat: the Boothville-Venice area, down the Mississippi River. “Down the River” became synonymous with his brand, reflecting the genuine connection to the…

Rosella NEW ORLEANS | rosellamidcity.com Comfort meets culinary creativity at Rosella in Mid-City New Orleans. Offering a diverse menu to satisfy all appetites, this casual eatery is full of gems that are sure to top your favorites list. Owners Alixandra Petrovich and Paul McCaige are the dynamic duo behind Rosella and decided to open their restaurant after enduring months of strikes in the film industry. Their menu includes small plates such as the popular Corn Dog with Creole mustard, Boudin Balls, and Andouille Croquette. Indulge in the casual surroundings and comfort cuisine of Rosella, and we’re sure you’ll be back for more. The Pearl SHREVEPORT | thepearlshreveport.com The lovely people who work at The Pearl aim to provide patrons with a dining experience unlike any other. Taking the term “oyster…

“Who doesn’t love the smell of bacon cooking in a skillet? The only thing better than hot bacon is hot bacon cooking with duck fat in a skillet.”—JEAN-PAUL BOURGEOIS RIGHT AROUND WHEN COLLEGE FOOTBALL KICKS OFF is when we begin to feel the change in the air. It’s subtle at first. Weeks are crammed with mid-90–degree heat; then, out of nowhere, you get a couple of days in the mid-80s with a touch less humidity and a steady breeze. This is also the time when you get the annual comments and jokes about it being “gumbo weather” with every drop of a degree. As if Louisianans needed any more reason to make a gumbo. Don’t get me wrong—I love Saturday nights in Death Valley, and I will always make time…

Classic Chicken Stew MAKES ABOUT 6 SERVINGS 1 cup vegetable oil1¼ cups all-purpose flour8 cups hot water1 (4- to 5-pound) whole chicken, cut into 8 sections1 red bell pepper, diced1 yellow bell pepper, diced2 cups chopped yellow onion1 cup chopped celery2 tablespoons minced garlic2 dried bay leaves1 (14-ounce) package andouille sausage, sliced into ¼-inch-thick half-moons1 cup sliced green onion¼ cup Worcestershire sauce1 teaspoon Creole seasoning1 teaspoon kosher saltHot cooked rice, to serveGarnish: fresh parsley leaves, fresh celery leaves, Creole seasoning 1. In a large Dutch oven or large deep cast-iron skillet, heat oil over medium-high heat. Add flour, and whisk vigorously until combined and mixture is smooth. Reduce heat to low, and cook, stirring constantly with a flat-bladed spoon and scraping bottom of pot, until mixture resembles the color of…

A warm apple crisp bubbling away in the oven is a smell so intoxicating, we wouldn’t be surprised if the leaves started to change colors right then and there. All jokes aside, the combination of apples, pecans, and warming spices is truly a match made in fall heaven, making this cozy sweet treat a must-bake in these cooler months. Apple Crisp with Cane Syrup MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS 3 medium Honeycrisp apples, chopped2 medium Granny Smith apples, chopped¼ cup all-purpose flour¼ cup granulated sugar¼ cup firmly packed light brown sugar1 tablespoon vanilla bean paste1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice1 teaspoon ground cinnamon¼ teaspoon kosher salt¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg2 tablespoons unsalted butterPecan Crisp Topping (recipe follows)Warm cane syrup, to serve 1. Preheat oven to 375°. 2. In a large bowl, combine…

The mild, natural sweetness of earthy beets comes out when slow-roasted, and when combined with first-of-the-season satsumas, tangy feta, fresh herbs, and a bit of seasonal crunch from roasted and salted pumpkin seeds, this simple, symphonic side hits all the right notes. Roasted Beets with Satsumas MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS 6 medium red beets, peeled and cut into ½-inch-thick slices (about 8 cups)2 satsumas, unpeeled and thinly sliced3 sprigs fresh thyme1 tablespoon olive oil1½ teaspoons kosher salt1 clove garlic, thinly sliced1 cup sliced peeled satsumas¼ cup roughly chopped fresh parsley2 tablespoons cane vinegar½ teaspoon Creole seasoning¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper½ cup crumbled feta cheese¼ cup thinly sliced red onion¼ cup roasted salted pumpkin seedsGarnish: crushed red pepper, chopped fresh parsley 1. Preheat oven to 375°. Line a rimmed baking sheet…

September is a month of transition. Kids are back in school, the massive heat of summer has somewhat subsided, and everyone prays for bountiful harvests of sweet potatoes, wild game, and sugar. Of course, the Blessing of the Fleet in Morgan City ensures a plentiful harvest of shrimp. Everyone prays for no hurricanes, safety for all families, and no destruction of property, especially hunting camps. It’s officially harvest season throughout Louisiana—land, gulf, and marsh! I love driving the highways and byways this time of year. Honestly, it’s hard to pass those large bundles of mustard greens, collards, and turnips. I always stop for the golden jewels of sweet potatoes and crookneck squash that populate the state. Later in the harvest season, I collect bags of pecans, persimmons, mandarins, and oranges.…

Instead of the traditional method of roasting Brussels sprouts and sweet potatoes in the oven—which is only going to heat up your kitchen in these sometimes still-warm months—utilize your air fryer for the crispiest bites with hardly any mess in the kitchen. This low-maintenance recipe is good all on its own but can be served over rice for an even heartier meal. Crispy Brussels Sprouts with Andouille and Sweet Potatoes MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS 1½ pounds Brussels sprouts, halved (quartered if large)1½ pounds diced sweet potatoes, peeled if desired1 (14-ounce) package andouille sausage, sliced crosswise2 tablespoons olive oil1 teaspoon kosher salt2 tablespoons cane syrup2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar½ teaspoon Creole seasoning¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper¼ cup chopped toasted pecans¼ cup sliced green onionGarnish: crushed red pepper 1. If preheating is…

RECIPE INDEX APPETIZERS AND BEVERAGES Blackberry-Bourbon Boulevardier 39 Crescent City Shrimp and Crab Dip 44 Kettle Chip Steak Nachos 43 Pigs in a Blanket with Creole Mustard Sauce 43 The Widow’s Embrace 93 DESSERTS Apple Crisp with Cane Syrup 79 Black & Gold Brownies 44 MAINS Classic Chicken Stew 48 Chip Veillon’s Teal Duck 36 Creamy Sweet Potato Soup 52 Creole Courtbouillon 48 Crispy Brussels Sprouts with Andouille and Sweet Potatoes 81 Dad’s Duck Dinner 33 Easy Duck Confit 75 Grilled Gator Tails with Zippy Tartar Sauce 75 Jambalaya 32 Pan-Fried Quail 76 Sausage and Greens Gumbo 48 Slow-Roasted Rabbit with Creole Mustard Sauce 77 Spicy Cajun Tomato Soup with Crawfish Toast 52 Venison Meatball Stew 76 MISCELLANEOUS Pecan Crisp Topping 79 Pickled Vegetables 43 Zippy Tartar Sauce 75 SIDES…