Innholdsfortegnelse for January/February 2024 i Louisiana Cookin'

IT’S THE MOST WONDERFUL TIME OF YEAR. No, no. Not that time; it’s Carnival time. Any of you who have followed Louisiana Cookin’ over the last decade will know that I’ll be eschewing my low(er)-cholesterol diet for oversize hunks of king cake and steaming bowls of gumbo and jambalaya every chance I get. In this edition, you’ll find all the stuff you’d expect along with some other delicious treats for this festive season. When I moved to New Orleans, I hadn’t heard of the galette des rois. There, it’s essentially the other king cake, often an insider’s delight. It’s not the ubiquitous fluffy, bready, cinnamon-y gas station and grocery store cake. The galette des rois (the traditional king cake of northern France) is an elegant affair of buttery puff pastry…

SWEET POTATO SPICE CAKE MAKES 1 (9-INCH) CAKE 1¼ pounds sweet potatoes,rinsed well½ cup unsalted butter, softened¾ cup granulated sugar¼ cup firmly packed light brown sugar2 large eggs1½ teaspoons vanilla extract1⅓ cups all-purpose flour1 teaspoon baking powder1 teaspoon baking soda1 teaspoon ground cinnamon1 teaspoon ground ginger½ teaspoon kosher salt¼ teaspoon ground black pepper½ cup whole buttermilkBrowned Butter Frosting (recipe follows)Garnish: chopped toasted walnuts 1. Preheat oven to 425°. Line a rimmed baking sheet with foil. 2. Pierce sweet potatoes all over with a fork. Place on prepared pan. 3. Bake until fork-tender, 45 minutes to 1 hour. Let cool enough to handle. Peel, and discard skins; mash flesh with a potato masher. Reserve 1½ cups mashed sweet potato. Reduce oven temperature to 350°. 4. Spray a 9-inch round cake pan with baking…

Chef Meg Bickford Commander’s Palace 1403 Washington Ave. New Orleans commanderspalace.com CHEF MEG BICKFORD, THE EXECUTIVE CHEF OF Commander’s Palace in New Orleans, has woven the fabric of her Louisiana upbringing into a rich culinary career. Growing up in a large Louisiana family, her earliest years revolved around experiencing the cultural and culinary traditions of the region as her loved ones seemed to be endlessly cooking for family gatherings. From an early age, Meg learned food was not just a source of sustenance but the centerpiece of celebration and togetherness, and growing up in an environment where the power of food united people and created memories became a driving force in her determination to make it a career. “I was always very aware of how it was food that was…

PARMESAN BEIGNETS MAKES 96 ½ cup warm water (105° to 115°)1½ teaspoons active dry yeast¼ cup plus 1 teaspoon sugar, divided½ cup boiling water½ cup evaporated milk2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted1 teaspoon kosher salt1 large egg, room temperature4¼ cups all-purpose flour½ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese, plus more for sprinkling⅓ cup finely chopped green onion1 tablespoon Cajun seasoning½ teaspoon dried oregano leavesVegetable oil, for fryingMarinara sauce, to serve 1. In a small bowl, stir together ½ cup warm water, yeast, and 1 teaspoon sugar. Let stand until foamy, about 5 minutes. 2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat ½ cup boiling water, evaporated milk, melted butter, salt, and remaining ¼ cup sugar at low speed until well combined, about 1 minute. Add yeast…

KING CAKES GET ALL THE LOVE DURING CARNIVAL SEASON, so sometimes enough is enough. For your next get-together, try this simple (yet decadent) crêpe cake and your guests will appreciate the change of pace. MEYER LEMON CRÊPE CAKE MAKES 1 (8-INCH) CAKE 3 cups whole milk⅓ cup granulated sugar5 large eggs, room temperature1 teaspoon Meyer lemon zest3 cups all-purpose flour¾ teaspoon kosher saltMelted butter, for brushingLemon Mousse (recipe follows)Garnish: fresh berries, lemon slices, confectioners’ sugar 1. In the container of a blender, pulse milk, granulated sugar, eggs, and lemon zest until combined. Add flour and salt, and pulse until just combined. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or up to overnight. 2. Spray several large wire racks with cooking spray. 3. Heat an 8-inch low-sided nonstick skillet over…

THE TREND AT THE BEGINNING OF EVERY NEW YEAR often seems to be one where people are making healthier decisions about their diets. This does not seem to last very long in south Louisiana. I’d imagine this doesn’t last long just about anywhere, but this holds especially true in Louisiana. We often try to find balance, but the challenges we face around every corner make things very difficult. I mean this in a literal sense: around every corner is a gas station with either fresh boudin, meat pies, or cracklin’. What can I say? We just love food that makes you have to loosen your belt. It is either something in the water here or it is in our DNA. There are tremendous numbers of different cultures who have migrated…

GREETINGS! My name is Alexandria Bowler, and I’m the lead bartender at Emeril’s in New Orleans. I grew up in the Phoenix, Arizona, area, where I attended the Le Cordon Bleu Culinary Institute of Scottsdale and honed my skills at several esteemed restaurants. My cooking background lends itself to a culinary edge when developing cocktails, though I always pay homage to the classics. I’ve studied wine and spirits for more than a decade and hold certificates from the Court of Master Sommeliers, BarSmarts, and the Wine & Spirit Education Trust (WSET). I’m an international spirits judge and alumna of both the Women in Culinary Leadership (WICL) and Women in Entrepreneurial Leadership (WIEL) development programs through the James Beard Foundation. All that being said, when I’m not working, I’m most likely…

PRESENTED BY CAMELLIA BRAND LUFU NOLA NEW ORLEANS Elevated regional Indian food can be found in this new cozy yet elegant space located on Saint Charles Avenue in New Orleans. With options set to please any palate, you can find traditional dishes like tandoori and Angara Chicken that are sure to delight. It also boasts a killer craft cocktails menu with both specialty and classic cocktails and mocktails. And you don’t want to forget dessert with selections like Royal Falooda and Gajrela Flan. It even offers catering with expertly crafted options featuring a wide range of Indian dishes. lufunola.com THE FLATS LAFAYETTE The Flats is Lafayette’s newest restaurant that serves up the works and does it deliciously. Located on Jefferson Street, The Flats is the perfect place to grab a…

EVERY CHRISTMAS, Daddy was gifted with a copy of The Old Farmer’s Almanac, a swamp floor bible if ever there was one. Within days of receiving it, every other page was dog-eared to mark useful information such as planting times, weather forecasts, harvest seasons, and moon phases. Just as ancient man was intrigued by the night sky, so were the Folse boys intrigued by full moons: Wolf Moon, Buck Moon, Sturgeon Moon, and Hunger Moon. Thankfully, we never knew hunger. Like Native peoples, we learned from our forebearers how to survive off the land and waterways that we might enjoy a plentitude of meat, fish, and fowl throughout the year. In the 1700s, French historian and naturalist Antoine-Simon Le Page du Pratz became familiar with the moon cycles of Louisiana’s…

CREOLE GREEN BEANS WITH TASSO MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS 4 quarts water1½ tablespoons plus ½ teaspoon kosher salt, divided2 pounds fresh green beans, trimmed5 strips bacon, cut crosswise into ½-inch pieces1½ cups diced white onion¼ cup diced tasso1 cup diced red bell pepper2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced1 (10-ounce) can diced tomatoes with green chiles1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce1 teaspoon Cajun seasoning¼ teaspoon ground black pepper 1. In a large stockpot, combine 4 quarts water and 1½ tablespoons salt; bring to a boil over high heat. Add green beans, and reduce heat to medium-low. Cook until almost tender, 4 to 6 minutes. Transfer green beans to an ice water bath to stop the cooking process; let cool completely. Drain, and pat dry. 2. Heat a 12-inch cast-iron skillet over medium heat; add…

CAJUN SHRIMP AND ANDOUILLE PASTA MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS 2 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided1 cup sliced andouille sausage1 medium white onion, halved and thinly sliced1 cup chopped red bell pepper1 teaspoon minced garlic1 pound peeled and deveined medium shrimp2 cups half-and-half½ cup cream cheese, softened1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese1 tablespoon Cajun seasoning6 cups hot cooked penne pastaGarnish: freshly grated Parmesan cheese, crushed red pepper, chopped fresh parsley 1. In a 12-inch skillet, heat 1 tablespoon oil over medium-high heat. Add andouille, and cook, stirring frequently, until crispy and golden brown, about 6 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer andouille to a medium bowl, reserving drippings in skillet. 2. Add remaining 1 tablespoon oil to drippings in skillet, and heat over medium-high heat. Add onion and bell pepper, and…

KAITLIN GUERIN found her passion for baking as a child helping her mother in the kitchen and adding her own special touch to recipes. Initially pursuing a dance career in the San Francisco Bay area, she later returned to her culinary roots, attending the Culinary Institute of America’s baking and pastry program while she was out west. This decision eventually led the New Orleans native back home. Kaitlin’s return to Louisiana marked a transformative moment. She decided to launch Lagniappe Baking. What began as baking treats for family and friends during the COVID-19 lockdown turned into a thriving business, sharing her treats—and a little something extra, as the name suggests—one box at a time. Her home setup quickly gained a loyal following and secured standing accounts with prestigious local restaurants,…

Recipe Index Appetizers Charbroiled Oysters 38 Crab- and Andouille-Stuffed Mushrooms 66 Crawfish Beignets 56 Oyster Fritters 42 Parmesan Beignets 55 Beverages Big-Batch La Louisiane Cocktail 66 Carnival Colada 93 Desserts French Market Beignets 57 King Cake With Cream Cheese Filling 67 Mardi Gras Beignets 57 Meyer Lemon Crêpe Cake 73 Soufflé Beignets 58 Spiced Citrus Galette Des Rois 90 Sweet Potato Soufflé 20 Sweet Potato Spice Cake 17 Mains Alligator Gumbo 49 Cajun Shrimp and Andouille Pasta 75 Chicken Piquant Soup 49 Corn Soup 84 Crawfish Bisque with French Bread Croutons 50 Crawfish Lasagna 85 Creamy Potato Soup with Ham and Tasso 50 Creole Vegetable Soup 48 Grand-Mere’s Oyster Dressing 41 Pork Tenderloin with Creamy Creole Mustard Sauce 79 Roasted Whole Snapper with Citrus and Herbs 68 Shrimp Filé Gumbo…

CREOLE VEGETABLE SOUP MAKES 10 CUPS 1 tablespoon olive oil1 cup chopped carrot1 cup diced butternut squash1 cup sliced celery1 cup diced yellow onion1 tablespoon minced garlic6 cups vegetable broth2 (14.5-ounce) cans diced tomatoes2 cups packed chopped turnip greens2 cups chopped green cabbage1 tablespoon kosher salt1 teaspoon Cajun seasoning½ teaspoon garlic powder½ teaspoon smoked paprika2 dried bay leaves2 cups chopped fresh green beans1 (15.5-ounce) can kidney beans, rinsed and drainedGarnish: chopped fresh parsley 1. In a large stockpot or Dutch oven, heat oil over medium heat. Add carrot, squash, celery, onion, and garlic. Cook, stirring occasionally, until vegetables begin to soften, 7 to 10 minutes. 2. Stir broth, tomatoes, turnip greens, cabbage, salt, Cajunseasoning, garlic powder, paprika, and bay leaves into carrot mixture. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat,…

LOUISIANA IS KNOWN FOR HAVING SOME OF THE BEST CUISINE IN THE COUNTRY, and it’s no surprise that there’s contention on what makes the best of the best. From muffulettas to jambalaya, there are many culinary wonders to be had in the Bayou State, and this list comprises only a small sample of bites we’ve deemed absolutely essential. Starting in Sulphur, we’ve got B&O Kitchen and Grocery’s boudin. This pork-and-rice sausage is a staple in many recipes we love, and B&O is a must-stop for getting your hands on some. Next up is Lee’s Cajun Cuisine in Opelousas with its delectable jambalaya. This veteran-owned restaurant serves up many Cajun specialties, but we think you should dig into the jambalaya when you visit. Beignets are a delight unlike any other, and…

CREOLE MUSTARD IS ONE OF those things that, while available at many grocers nationwide (thanks to the iconic Zatarain’s brand, which is now owned by McCormick’s), is not very well-known outside the Bayou State. There isn’t much information out there as to its origins, but it’s thought that this variety of whole-grain mustard was popularized by German immigrants in the 19th century. The product gained further attention when it was marketed by Emile Zatarain in the late 1800s. Until recently, Zatarain’s Creole Mustard—a smooth, stone-ground mustard—was produced in McCormick’s Gretna facility and shipped around the world. They aren’t the only game in town, though, as a few other producers continue to distribute their own version of the product. For this pork tenderloin, we used a tart and spicy variety from…