Innholdsfortegnelse for September/October 2023 i Louisiana Cookin'

AT THE END OF A SUMMER full of seafood boils, hearty greens, and okra, by September, we’re all ready for fall. Ready for the gumbos. Ready for the football. Ready for a break in the unrelenting heat and threat of hurricanes. But it’s not that easy, is it? We have to wait—patiently—until those first glimpses of cooler weather start showing up on October evenings. Well, dear reader, we’ve got an issue full of great stuff for you when that weather does turn. When I speak with folks like Chef Frank Brigtsen and 2023 Chef to Watch Jeff Heard, I’m always reminded that gumbos aren’t so much of a dish as an event. Nobody makes a small gumbo. They’re perfect for sharing, and they’re such a wonderful vehicle for pairing things…

SWEET FRITTERS CALLED CALAS are believed to have arrived in the American South with enslaved Africans in the 1700s. Made with leftover rice added to sweetened batter and deep-fried until golden before being coated in confectioners’ sugar, calas (pronouced “kah-lahs”) gained popularity as a street food staple sold by African women in New Orleans. SPICED ORANGE CALAS MAKES 25 These seasonally spiced calas are terrific on their own, but adding some warm marmalade makes them even better. ½ cup warm water (110° to 115°)8 tablespoons sugar, divided1 (0.25-ounce) package active dry yeast2 cups cooked long-grain rice, room temperature1½ cups all-purpose flour1½ teaspoons lightly packed orange zest, divided¾ teaspoon kosher salt, divided½ teaspoon ground cardamom, divided½ teaspoon ground cinnamon, divided½ teaspoon ground ginger, divided3 large eggs, beaten1 teaspoon vanilla extractVegetable oil,…

LOUISIANA IS KNOWN for a wide variety of signature dishes. Often, when people think of Louisiana food, it is typically the entrées or the side dishes. We are well-known for gumbo, jambalaya, and étouffée. Louisiana residents take great pride in their representation of these staple dishes. There’s a reason why they are often the main course. However, there are two desserts here that people come from all over the world to try. That would be our beignets and bread pudding. If you have never had a beignet before, put it on your list of things to try before you die. It is Louisiana’s version of a doughnut. Unlike your traditional doughnut, which is topped with a glaze, we top ours with a mountain of confectioners’ sugar. Also, a beignet is…

AS AUTUMN SLOWLY CREEPS INTO LOUISIANA, everything turns beautiful hues of purple and gold. The chill in the air is not that of a mistral wind but the cold snap of lid-popping, slow-sipping cold brews that encircle LSU’s Tiger Stadium. We may not have traditional autumns like those in the Northeast, but our autumn colors are just as crisp and vibrant. It’s tailgating season in the SEC! It’s been said that Louisiana’s first tailgate party was in 1893 when LSU played Tulane at Sportsman’s Park in New Orleans. Some 1,500 tailgaters brought blankets, cast-iron pots, and whole pigs to roast on spits as they watched the game, which cost 50 cents per person. While Princeton might have had the first tailgate party 25 years earlier, I guarantee the food was…

OYSTER FANS, REJOICE! The world is your oyster with these fun shooters that make the perfect appetizer or refreshing addition to your cocktail repertoire. The veggies, peppers, vodka, and more that make up the shooter sauce will pair perfectly with fresh Louisiana oysters for one memorably tasty way to impress your guests. OYSTER SHOOTERS MAKES 12 Get the party started with these spicy, tangy shooters. 2 tablespoons distilled white vinegar1 tablespoon finely chopped cucumber1 tablespoon finely chopped celery1 tablespoon finely chopped green onion1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh cilantro1 tablespoon minced seeded Fresno pepper1 tablespoon minced seeded jalapeño1½ teaspoons green hot sauce1 teaspoon kosher salt1 cup vegetable juice4 ounces vodka, chilled2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice2 tablespoons prepared horseradish1 tablespoon hot sauce1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce1 teaspoon Creole seasoning1 teaspoon ground black pepper12…

Southern and Smoked: Cajun Cooking through the Seasons by Jarred Zeringue JARRED ZERINGUE HAS EMERGED AS A CULINARY MAESTRO in southeastern Louisiana, captivating taste buds with his notable work at Wayne Jacob’s Smokehouse in LaPlace. His contributions to the smokehouse’s menu have solidified his reputation as a master of smoke-kissed flavors, and his latest masterpiece, Southern and Smoked: Cajun Cooking through the Seasons (Pelican Publishing, 2022), takes readers on an extraordinary gastronomic journey that showcases that expertise in Cajun cuisine and captures the essence of the state’s colorful culinary heritage with every page. As the pages turn, readers become inspired to explore the magic of Cajun cooking and embrace the rhythm of Louisiana’s seasons. Each section offers a comprehensive collection of recipes that reflect the unique ingredients and flavors associated…

WITH A CAREER SPANNING MORE THAN THREE DECADES, Chef Lenora Chong has captivated the palates of food enthusiasts with her unique blend of flavors and her passion for creating unforgettable dining experiences. Born in Korea to a Korean mother and an African American father, Lenora’s early experiences with food were deeply rooted in family and tradition. The aroma of her grandmother’s comforting Southern dishes, her mother’s restaurateur spirit, and her father’s gourmet creations all sparked her love for cooking at a young age. “Food became reflective of love for me,” she says. “I always saw family from all across the city when we gathered for Grandma’s weekly Sunday dinner. We ate and spent quality time together, but her food then was in contrast to my father’s professional style that I…

RUM AND RYE SPICED OLD-FASHIONEDS MAKES 2 SERVINGS We love a traditional old-fashioned, but this seasonal version of the sip might be our new favorite. 4 ounces rye whiskey4 ounces aged rum1 ounce Fall Spice Simple Syrup (recipe follows)Garnish: orange peel twists, Amarena cherries, whole star anise 1. In a cocktail shaker, add whiskey, rum, and Fall Spice Simple Syrup; shake until well combined. Strain over 2 to 3 ice cubes in 2 glasses. Garnish with orange peel, cherries, and star anise, if desired. FALL SPICE SIMPLE SYRUP MAKES ABOUT 1½ CUPS 1 cup sugar1 cup water2 cinnamon sticks3 whole cloves4 allspice berries2 whole star anisePeel of 1 medium navel orange¼ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon aromatic cocktail bitters*2 teaspoons freshly grated ginger 1. In small saucepan, combine…

CANE SYRUP IS ESTEEMED in kitchens all across the South. Creating the sticky-sweet goodness is a tradition born from an economy that was based on sugarcane production. This is especially true in Louisiana, where sugarcane is an integral part of its history. Brought to the area by Jesuits more than 200 years ago, sugarcane helped define the lifestyles of the people who depended on its success. While the sugarcane business focused on the exportation of white granulated sugar to Europe, those who actually grew the cane learned to use what they had available to them. This old-fashioned sweetener is the product of the first boiling of sugarcane juice, a process that greatly reduces the liquid content and caramelizes the sucrose in the juice. The tradition is time-consuming and labor-intensive, but…

YOU MAY FIND ME WORKING BEHIND THE BAR and as general manager at Beachbum Berry’s Latitude 29 in New Orleans today, but my career in the industry began back in 2009 when I joined the ranks at Coquette in New Orleans’ Garden District. Immersed in its challenging program, I honed my skills and learned about fresh, local produce along with the ever-changing landscape of cocktails. As my interest in bartending grew, I found myself drawn to the historical aspect of mixology. Inspired by the works of renowned mixologists and authors David Wondrich and Jeff “Beachbum” Berry, I delved into the rich heritage of cocktail culture. My desire to recreate classic drinks and transport customers to different eras became a driving force behind my craft. With each meticulously crafted drink, I…