Innholdsfortegnelse for July/August 2023 i Louisiana Cookin'

It’s that time of year again. “High summer” is a kind way to think about July and August in Louisiana, when the produce bounty begins to wane and watermelon and okra begin to shine at the farmers’ market. Firing up the grill for easy dinners and hitting a local sno-ball stand for a cool treat help make the steamy evenings more enjoyable. In this July/August issue, we tried to hit all the best seasonal flavors and give you some cooking techniques to make them even better. To help get dinner on the table without heating up your house too much, check out our Low & No Cook Dishes feature (page 53) for some terrific flavors. The Shrimp-Pistou Pasta Salad (page 59) is divine, and I’ll be looking forward to that…

A MULTITUDE OF CULTURAL AND CULINARY TRADITIONS make up the soul of New Orleans, and despite the success of Cajun and Creole restaurants, there are a new crop of restaurants celebrating other aspects of the city’s cultural past. Chef Serigne Mbaye is determined to blaze new trails with the opening of his concept, Dakar NOLA, and the restaurant was born as a way to celebrate both his own Senegalese heritage and the classic dishes New Orleans is known for. His journey to serving from a kitchen of his own was one that began as a child surrounded by the hospitality industry. “My mother owned a restaurant in Harlem, [New York],” he says. “Her and my father taught me all about the culture and foods in Senegal. That’s how I developed…

WHEN YOU ASK A LOUISIANAN how long it takes them to make a roux, it’s more common for them to give a tactile range than an exact time. At Louisiana Cookin’, we’ve heard people say “as long as it takes me to drink two beers” and “I cook it to the color of my black lab,” and that speaks to the flexibility of the ingredient. If we had to put numbers on it, a good roux could take as little as 10 minutes (if you’re using a higher heat and diligently stirring) or as long as 45 minutes for something deep and dark. If you’re the sort of cook who prizes reliability and minimizing prep time, consider using a dry roux. Louisiana stalwart brands including Tony Chachere’s, Kary’s, and Savoie’s…

DEVIL MOON BARBECUE NEW ORLEANS Located in downtown New Orleans, Devil Moon Barbecue is a marriage of American barbecue and South Louisiana Cajun smokehouse traditions. Award-winning pitmaster Shannon Bingham puts Cajun smoked meats at the forefront while still maintaining the iconic barbecue and sides that we know and love. From Texas-style brisket to Carolina-style pulled pork, the whole-animal butchery program allows for delicious meats alongside foundational Cajun dishes like gumbo, sausages, and local fermented vegetables. Devil Moon Barbecue serves as one of the Neighborhood Restaurant Group’s first forays into New Orleans. devilmoonbbq.com MCCORD BUTCHERY METAIRIE Metairie has a new locally owned and operated market that delivers an old-school butcher service, where customers can handpick and special-order meat, seafood, and other provisions. This European-style shop is led by Chef Sam McCord,…

FOLLOWING THE LOUISIANA PURCHASE of 1803, President Thomas Jefferson commissioned an overland journey to the Pacific Coast with Captain Meriwether Lewis leading the expedition and Captain William Clark sharing the command. About four dozen souls embarked on this 8,000-mile trek to explore the newly purchased lands west of the Mississippi River. Lewis divided the corps into three groups. Every evening, each group received a day of provisions. Half of the food was eaten that day; the rest was consumed the following day. Certainly, fresh meat and fish were welcome additions to their diet. George Drouillard was the most accomplished hunter, and Private Silas Goodrich became chief fisherman. Together, they and other outdoorsmen kept the expedition fed. During a North Dakota winter, the corps fortuitously met Toussaint Charbonneau, a French fur…

BLACKBERRY CRUMBLE BARS MAKES ABOUT 16 These quick and easy bars are a great option for a potluck and ideal to pack for a picnic. 1¼ cups unsalted butter, softened1 cup firmly packed light brown sugar2 cups quick-cooking oats2 cups all-purpose flour¾ teaspoon baking soda1 (13-ounce) jar blackberry preserves*1½ cups fresh blackberries, sliced lengthwise1 tablespoon lemon zest 1. Preheat oven to 350°. Line a 13x9-inch baking pan with parchment paper, letting excess extend over sides of pan; lightly spray with cooking spray. 2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat butter and brown sugar at medium speed until smooth and creamy, about 2 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of bowl. Add oats, flour, and baking soda, and beat at low speed until combined. Press…

COOL OFF IN THE LOUISIANA SUMMER HEAT with this dreamy frozen treat. The sweetness of farm-fresh blueberries plays perfectly with the pie’s lemony tang. While you’re at it, make two, so you can have a terrific dessert ready any time. FROZEN BLUEBERRY CREAM PIE MAKES 1 (9-INCH) PIE Save time and make this pie a day ahead of your next potluck. Crust: 1½ cups graham cracker crumbs3 tablespoons granulated sugar5 to 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted Filling: 1 cup fresh blueberries¼ cup water3 tablespoons granulated sugar1 tablespoon light corn syrup¾ teaspoon cornstarch⅛ teaspoon salt½ teaspoon lemon zest1 (8-ounce) package cream cheese, softened¾ cup confectioners’ sugar1½ cups heavy whipping cream½ teaspoon vanilla extract Garnish: fresh blueberries 1. Preheat oven to 350°. Spray a 9-inch pie plate with cooking spray. 2. For…

AS WE GET THROUGH our last days of summer just before the kids go back to school, we find ourselves trying to put together those final gatherings with friends and family. The most challenging part isn’t getting everyone together but, rather, what we will eat. Often, your guests will bring something—a salad, fruit tray, or some chips. Now, if you are the one committed to hosting the party, you want your guests to leave feeling satisfied. In Cajun Country, there’s an item you’ll be sure to find at almost every Cajun restaurant: that would be rice and beans. It is very common to find a plate of red beans and rice on a Monday just about anywhere plate lunches are being served. However, white beans is probably red beans’ second…

THE GOLDEN GLOVE IS AN OLDER TIKI DRINK that doesn’t get enough love in my opinion. It’s not one that gets ordered often, but at Latitude 29, we wanted to give it a moment to shine with a spot in our happy hour lineup. It’s a great cocktail, of course, but it’s one of my favorites for the amazing connection it has to one of the Caribbean’s all-time greatest bartenders. Constantino Ribalaigua Vert was dubbed “The Cocktail King of Cuba” during a more than 30-year career behind his bar at Havana’s El Floridita, famously frequented by author Ernest Hemingway. I had the honor of visiting the bar on my honeymoon last year, and it was incredible to be in a place that birthed so many of the iconic drinks I…

SAVOR SEASONAL PRODUCE and put it to delicious use all summer long with this simple yet memorable recipe. Filled with crunchy veggies and nuts, hearty protein, a sprinkle of cheese, and a sweet and spicy dressing, this salad is sure to hit the spot. HERBED GRILLED CHICKEN WITH HARISSA-HONEY ARUGULA SALAD MAKES 4 SERVINGS This colorful creation is the perfect summer lunch. 1 small yellow onion, thinly sliced and divided¼ cup finely chopped fresh parsley4 tablespoons olive oil, divided1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves1 tablespoon kosher salt, divided4 boneless skinless chicken breasts1 (6-ounce) package crumbled feta cheese1 (5-ounce) package baby arugula1 small zucchini, thinly shaved lengthwise1 small orange bell pepper, thinly sliced¼ cup chopped smoked almonds¼ cup cane vinegar2 tablespoons honey2 teaspoons harissa paste 1. In a large bowl, stir together…

ZUCCHINI-CRAB SALAD WITH LEMON-HERB VINAIGRETTE MAKES 4 SERVINGS (photo on page 50) The crabmeat’s delicate flavor pairs beautifully with the lemony dressing. 1 teaspoon lemon zest2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice1 teaspoon Dijon mustard½ teaspoon kosher salt½ teaspoon sugar¼ teaspoon ground black pepper¼ cup olive oil2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley1 (10-ounce) package fresh spiralized zucchini (about 3 cups)1 cup fresh corn kernels¼ cup thinly sliced red onion1 (8-ounce) container jumbo lump crabmeat, picked free of shell1 cup cherry tomatoes, halvedGarnish: lemon slices, fresh mint leaves 1. In a small bowl, whisk together lemon zest and juice, mustard, salt, sugar, and pepper. Whisk in oil in a slow, steady stream until combined. Add basil, mint, and parsley. 2. In a large bowl, combine zucchini,…

AS THE INTERNATIONAL BAR AND SPIRITS industry descends on New Orleans, their arrival signals the kickoff of this year’s Tales of the Cocktail® conference. Now in its 21st year, the annual event has grown to become one of the most prominent and influential weeks for the bartending and mixology world. Renowned mixologists, spirit brand representatives, and cocktail enthusiasts from around the globe spend nearly an entire week floating between a series of seminars, tastings, competitions, awards ceremonies, and parties focused on the art and science of craft cocktails and spirits. The inaugural Tales of the Cocktail® in 2002 was a humble affair in comparison. The event’s founders attended New York City’s Manhattan Cocktail Classic earlier the same year and imagined their hometown of New Orleans as the ideal host city…

FALL IN LOVE with this seasonal dish that’s tangy due to the quick pickling, sweet from the melons and honey, subtly spiced thanks to the peppers, and savory from the meat and cheese. It’s the ultimate summer fare to impress your guests or to serve with a weeknight meal. QUICK-PICKLED MELON AND BURRATA SALAD MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS Head to your local farmers’ market to secure all the fresh produce you’ll need for this stunning recipe. ½ cup distilled white vinegar2 tablespoons honey1 tablespoon kosher salt3 cups honeydew melon balls3 cups diced cantaloupe1 red Anaheim pepper, seeded and thinly sliced1 small jalapeño, seeded and thinly sliced2 cups halved assorted grape tomatoes1 medium tomato, cut into 1-inch cubes2 tablespoons olive oil1 (3-ounce) package prosciutto, cut in half2 (4-ounce) balls burrata…

CHRISTINA BALZEBRE is the talented pastry chef behind Levee Baking Co., nestled in the Irish Channel just off Magazine Street in New Orleans. With her love for the city’s culinary traditions and passion for creating exquisite baked goods, she’s become a cherished figure in New Orleans. She infuses her creations with both tradition and innovation and pays homage to classic Southern treats while incorporating modern twists and unexpected ingredients. From praline-filled beignets to bread pudding with a Cajun kick, Levee Baking Co. treats are a celebration of New Orleans’ culinary heritage. She sources the finest local ingredients, supporting the community and ensuring the freshest flavors. Her attention to detail and commitment to craftsmanship shine in the beautiful presentation of each creation, like this Cornmeal Pound Cake she shared with us.…