Innholdsfortegnelse for March/April 2023 i Louisiana Cookin'

“Whose idea was it to put boudin in that gumbo?” a Cajun chef asked me with some degree of incredulity. I braced myself, looked him in the eye, and explained that it was my idea to put boudin in a shrimp gumbo. (You can see it for yourself on page 52.) Rice is obviously a common addition to gumbo, and boudin’s heady flavors seemed like an interesting foil to the delicate shrimp. Thankfully, I was not accused of heresy, and we had a conversation about how recipes are developed at Louisiana Cookin’. Concept development for recipes and stories for the magazine is a collaborative process that often begins a year out. The editorial team works with recipe developers in our test kitchen to create recipes that are either faithful renditions…

OF THE VIBRANT COLORS TO pop up during the Louisiana spring, red and golden beets are some of the most radiant. Despite their appearance and health benefits, they don’t get as much love as they should. These recipes will excite beet lovers, and hopefully, sway beet skeptics. Both the striking root and the leafy greens of the beet are edible, and quite good for you. They’re full of fiber, folate, manganese, potassium, iron, and vitamin C. A few of the varieties the LSU AgCenter recommends for the Bayou State include amusing names including Bull’s Blood, Chioggia (also known as candy cane) and Golden Detroit. The sweet, earthy flavor of beets, and their textural versatility—from crunchy when raw to delicate when steamed or roasted—make them a useful part of a cook’s…

GW Fins 808 Bienville St. • New Orleans gwfins.com WHEN EXECUTIVE CHEF MICHAEL NELSON BEGAN AT THE famed French Quarter restaurant GW Fins 17 years ago, he knew he wanted to take a closer look at the seafood that came through the doors each day. “I wanted to check its quality and know more about it,” he says. Under his guidance, the restaurant began butchering all seafood served in-house, and one lesson Michael never intended on learning along the way was just how much waste the process of butchering fish involves. “Your average fish is only going to yield between 25 to 40 percent, so that means well over half of everything you’d buy would get discarded,” he says. Michael was aghast at the scraps and knew there had to…

FOR A SATISFYING MEAL that comes together quickly, do as the Cajuns do and turn to étouffée. Get the rice cooking just before you start the roux, and this comforting dinner will end up coming together at about the same time. SHRIMP AND TASSO ÉTOUFFÉE MAKES 4 SERVINGS This étouffée will taste just as good with crawfish tails. ¼ cup unsalted butter⅓ cup all-purpose flour1 cup chopped tasso2 cups fresh trinity seasoning mix*3 cups chicken broth2 sprigs fresh thyme2 dried bay leaves1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce1½ pounds peeled and deveined fresh jumbo shrimpHot cooked rice, to serveGarnish: sliced green onion 1. In a large skillet, melt butter over medium-low heat. Whisk in flour, and cook, stirring occasionally, until roux is golden brown and resembles the color of peanut butter, 10 to 12…

BEFORE ARRIVING IN New Orleans and blazing a culinary trail, Chef Martha Wiggins was born and raised in Washington, DC. The decision to relocate stemmed from a long-held affinity for the Crescent City formed during several family visits as a child. When she first arrived, Martha had no prospects for employment or housing, but as she always says, she “has angels in New Orleans.” A lucky break brought her first kitchen gig in town. From there, she worked in highly acclaimed restaurants before ending up as executive chef at the city’s beloved Café Reconcile, where Martha and the team work daily to provide workforce development and training that transforms the lives of young adults in the community. Q What inspired this take on traditional amandine? There are so many influences…

PARISH LINE BISTRO METAIRIE Last autumn, Metairie became home to a fresh new alfresco dining experience called Parish Line Bistro. The transformed Metairie Road restaurant is the former home of longstanding spot Metry Café that closed during the COVID-19 pandemic. The new two-story digs, featuring a second-floor deck for dining, makes a big impression, especially when accompanied by dishes from seasoned local chef Chris Wilson. Kick back with a spread of shareables like Cajun Caviar Fries or dive into the fresh fish or gourmet burger entrées. parishlinebistro.com THE PINK AGAVE PONCHATOULA AND COVINGTON Recently, Covington got a taste of what Ponchatoula has been raving about at this vibrant place where tasty Tex-Mex, picture-worthy tequila cocktails, and good vibes collide. Tacos are the Pink Agave’s specialty—and shouldn’t be missed—but their menu…

EACH WINTER, WHEN TEMPERATURES DROPPED and wild oysters were ready to be harvested, Jason Pitre’s late grandfather Antoine “Whitney” Dardar would venture into oyster-rich ponds and canals off the coast of Lafourche Parish in a pirogue and rake up the bivalves, breaking them apart by hand. It was how he’d done it for decades and how he’d seen his own father do it before him. “He was a traditionalist,” says Jason, proprietor of Bayou Rosa Oyster Farm in Leeville. But as his grandfather got older and environmental concerns emerged, traditionalism wasn’t cutting it. The ponds and canals where he’d fished for oysters were now lakes and 5-to-10-foot bodies of water, and the BP oil spill was a final straw. “The oysters were just not there anymore, and there was the…

THE REST OF THE WORLD HAS four seasons, but here in Louisiana, we have more like 11 seasons. There’s gumbo season, king cake season, tailgating season, shrimp season, oyster season, and, of course, crawfish season, among others. Now, many will say these things are just seasonal, not necessarily a season. However, Louisianans will argue this to their graves. Heck, they will even argue with each other on when the seasons actually begin and end. Some people to this day believe it’s bad luck if you eat a king cake too early. You can have a doughnut or cinnamon roll any time of the year, but heaven forbid you bite into a king cake in September. Nonetheless, there’s one thing we can agree on: there’s no better season than the one…

WHEN WE REACH FOR A CONTAINER OF POWDERED CRAB BOIL SEASONING MIX (or seafood boil or crawfish boil, for that matter), we’re typically about to add it to boiling water to season said seafood. That’s perfectly fine, as that’s what it was intended to do, but there’s more flavoring to be done with that piquant mix. In addition to flavoring water, crab boil also makes a terrific dry rub or sauce component, as we’ve done here. CRAB BOIL SEARED TUNA MAKES 2 SERVINGS If you like your tuna rare, get the pan nice and hot before adding the fillets. 2 tablespoons white distilled vinegar3 tablespoons olive oil, divided1 teaspoon sugar½ teaspoon kosher salt¼ teaspoon dry mustard⅛ teaspoon celery seed⅛ teaspoon ground black pepper1 cup shredded Napa cabbage1 cup shredded carrot½…

THIS TIME AROUND, I WANTED TO USE ONE OF my original creations. This Papaya Papi is something completely unique, with no ties to any traditional tiki drinks or other classic bar cocktails. Before I started at Beachbum Berry’s Latitude 29, they used to have a happy hour program where each bartender would create a custom drink and tell a story with it. I really liked the idea and wanted to take a swing and make something brand-new. I started experimenting with falernum (a spiced Caribbean liqueur) at home and became familiar with its distinctive viscosity by using it in coffee, tea, and other drinks. I’ve drunk papaya smoothies since I was a little kid, and one day, I tried adding falernum to my smoothie. The flavor profile it created was…

BRUNCH IS OFTEN A DECADENT MEAL, but with a few powerhouse ingredients, you can also make it quite healthful. This beautiful protein-packed quiche substitutes lower-carb sweet potatoes for the expected dough crust and incorporates kale for a boost of calcium, vitamin A, and iron. Pairing this lovely dish with a light salad and fresh juice will give you a meal to remember. SWEET POTATO-CRUSTED QUICHE MAKES ABOUT 6 SERVINGS After trying this sweet potato crust, you may not go back to pie dough. 4 slices thick-cut bacon, thinly sliced4 cups chopped stemmed curly kale (about 1 bunch)1½ pounds 1-inch cubed peeled sweet potatoes (about 5 cups)3 teaspoons kosher salt, divided12 large eggs1 cup whole-milk Greek yogurt1 cup shredded smoked Gruyère cheese½ cup thinly sliced green onion 1. Preheat oven to…

SPRING MORNINGS ON RIVER ROAD could be a little chilly, but that did not stop the chatter of six brothers tramping down the gravel road to St. James School. Across the pastures, we could see newborn calves wobbling on unsteady legs. Birds whistled and chirped as they migrated north along the Mississippi Flyway. The clover was green, and if you caught the wind right, you’d smell a light scent of mandarin blossoms on the breeze. School days were long and laborious. But when the 3 o’clock dismissal bell rang, we were the first ones out the door! By the time we arrived at the house, we had shed our socks and shoes, allowing blades of spring grass to tickle our toes. We bounded across the railroad track to Papere’s house,…

FOR BOILED CRAWFISH that are worth the wait, waste no time getting to Cajun Claws in Abbeville, Louisiana. Scores of loyal fans line up during the height of mudbug season for Donni Choate’s perfectly seasoned, exquisitely plump crawfish. Here are some other good tips on having the best experience there: Call ahead (because they only boil when there are enough high-quality mudbugs around), make friends while you wait, and try the fried shrimp (one cannot live on boiled crawfish alone!). If you can’t make it to Abbeville, try some of these tip-top boil-joints. Clesi’s Restaurant & Catering 4323 Bienville St New Orleans 504.909.0108 clesicatering.com Cajun Claws 1928 Charity St. Abbeville 337.893.9437 http://facebook.com/TheOriginalCajunClaws Crawfish Town USA 2815 Grand Point Hwy. Henderson 337.667.6148 crawfishtownusa.com Hawk’s Crawfish Restaurant 415 Hawk’s Rd. Rayne 337.788.3266…

FOR ITALIAN AND SICILIAN LOUISIANANS, the Feast of St. Joseph is marked with prayer and the construction of food-laden altars. These elaborate structures typically contain a statue of St. Joseph and votive candles at its head, flanked by copious amounts of cookies, cakes, and breads (which are traditionally donated to those in need). Zeppoles, fried pastries that are dusted with confectioners’ sugar or filled with sweet cream, are also part of the festivities. ZEPPOLES WITH ORANGE PASTRY CREAM MAKES 10 We can’t overstate this: high-quality maraschino cherries will make a world of difference in this traditional Italian pastry. ½ cup unsalted butter1 cup water2 teaspoons granulated sugar1 teaspoon ground cardamom½ teaspoon kosher salt1 cup all-purpose flour4 large eggs, room temperatureOrange Pastry Cream, recipe followsGarnish: maraschino cherries*, candied orange peel, confectioners’…

Lagniappe Leftovers by Susanne Duplantis makeovermyleftover.com TALENTED CHEF AND LOVER of leftovers Susanne Duplantis began her culinary journey on a stepstool in her MeMaw’s kitchen in Algiers. She was anything her grandmother needed: a pot stirrer, a flour sifter, a potato masher, a carrot peeler, an egg whisker, and an official taste tester. When it came time to gather fresh vegetables from the garden, MeMaw also taught Susanne the value of food by ensuring every morsel of food picked or prepared was eaten. Any food left over from breakfast found its way into lunch. Any leftovers from dinner were a part of breakfast the next day. Scraps became ingredients for stocks, seeds were replanted, and no morsel was ever too small not to save. Things that others would’ve thrown away…